MBWorld.org Forums - M-Class (W166)

Carbon Cannister Filter

Halexb — Sun, 24 May 2026 17:39:32 GMT

2014 ML350
Getting P0455 errors. CEL light on.
Changed purge valve. .. nope
Changed gas cap... nope.
Smoke tested hoses in engine compartment (to/ from purge valve etc). no leaks
Attached smoker to gas filler.
Smoke outta carbon cannister.
Removed cannister and the small filter on top (see pic) was FULL of dust. (I race at El Mirage dry lake for years... lots of dust)
Cleaned out the filter, cleaned valve and o-rings. Lubed o-rings.
CEL off for a week (~100) miles.
Back on yesterday.
Maybe the valve is corroded or o-rings in the filter piece bad...
Can't find the little piece online.
Is a new one available?

It's the small round thing in the attatched picture.

Cam adjuster alignment

Mariner1 — Sat, 23 May 2026 18:54:24 GMT

I made a more detailed post on timing and reassembling my M276.9 earlier today but I have a more specific question so I'm making a new thread.

At 53 deg after TDC ignition, all four reluctor wheels line up perfectly in their respective CPS holes

On Bank 1, at 40 deg after TDC overlap, the laser mark (highlighted in yellow in the pic) on the INTAKE cam adjuster is exactly one tooth below the left hand bolt hole for the chain tensioner. The laser mark for the EXHAUST cam adjuster is exactly one tooth above it.

The WIS picture I have is vague. It's not a straight ahead picture so precisely where the laser marks should point is not clear.

I'm certain the reluctor wheel on the INTAKE cam is in the correct position since I compared it to a known good cam, so the INTAKE laser mark should be in the correct position.

Since the EXHAUST cam does not have laser marks on the reluctor wheel or the cam hub, I can't be sure the reluctor wheel hasn't moved or that the laser mark on the EXHAUST cam adjuster is pointing in the correct position.

Is it?

Advice greatly appreciated.

Thanks...Mariner1

Weird problem after cam adjuster replacement

Mariner1 — Fri, 22 May 2026 16:41:49 GMT

Vehicle is a 2012 W166 with M276.9. with 93K miles. Dove in to address startup rattle and a stored P01177 DTC. No check engine light. Job escalated from there.

Expected a bad secondary tensioner (since the engine has the early tensioners with no check valves). Also, the intake manifold was full of oil, dripping from the ports when removed. Also found that the Bank 1 intake cam adjuster was toast - likely the cause of the startup rattle.

So I got some GB and cleaned the backs of the intake valves and cleaned the intake as best I could and installed:

New Bank 1 cam adjuster
New Check valves and both updated secondary tensioners.
New intake gaskets- upper and lower
New oil drip pan

And while I was in there..

New cam position sensors
New cam solenoids and pigtails

I timed the Bank 1 cams by sighting the reluctor wheels through the CPS magnet holes and they lined up as they should. Also noted that my cams do not have any laser marks to check for tone wheel slippage.

Got everything back together and it runs awful. Check engine light and multiple codes for misfires and a bad gallop when spinning on the starter. Clearly, it has low compression on a couple of cylinders. I'm 100% sure no valves got kissed by pistons.
Thought maybe the Bank 1 intake cam reluctor wheel might have slipped so ordered a new cam but the reluctor wheel is in the same position on both cams. And the new cam (Genuine BMW from FCP) does not have laser alignment marks for the reluctor wheel either.
That leaves the exhaust cam reluctor wheel, but no codes were thrown for that cam before the tear down.

So, here are the questions:

- Is there any way to check if the reluctor wheel is in the correct position on the exhaust cam if there are no laser marks?
- Is there any way to time the cam by cam adjuster position or lobe lift to see if the reluctor wheel slipped?
NOTE - I've looked at the WIS info on aligning the two Bank 1 cam adjusters by how they point at the tensioner and the picture seems vague. I've yet to find a head on picture of the Bank 1 cam adjusters in place to accurately check the alignment of the cam adjusters themselves.
- Is there anything else I could be missing?

Advice appreciated

Mariner1

Front SAM

RobertGLK — Thu, 21 May 2026 14:25:33 GMT

Can anyone tell me where the front SAM is located ?

Instructions to remove the DPF?

Potrice — Tue, 19 May 2026 14:25:41 GMT

Hey everyone,

My 2013 ML350 Bluetec is at 400 000 km. My AEM warranty is over and now, all of a sudden (great timing!), I'm getting multiple codes related to emission stuff (Nox sensors, the PM sensor and a temperature sensor). I'm throwing in the white towel and going with a full delete from Malone. I'll do all of the work myself. My only concern is the DPF...

Does anyone have the instructions on how to remove it? Do you remove it from the bottom of the car or the top? Both? I've never removed it before. Any help would be appreciated...I've searched the forums and haven't found anything...

Thank you in advance.

75w-90 gear oil for differential

05-E55 — Mon, 11 May 2026 20:38:12 GMT

I bought this instead of 75w-85 as the price is 1/3 and FCP Euro shows it as an option for 2013 ML350.
Just wondering if anyone has used that and hopefully has not had any issues.

ML350 Airmatic Malfunction

radjcw5 — Mon, 11 May 2026 14:17:54 GMT

I replaced the rear shocks with Aerosus. After a short time, I now have a 'Malfunction' displayed, after I drive a short distance after startup, no code set. The vehicle still goes up and down when manually chosen. Is this a programming issue, or do I look for a leak or poor connection?

Engine Wiring Loom

HeidiH — Fri, 08 May 2026 19:58:48 GMT

Good Evening from Norwich, UK. I have a 2012 350 Bluetec V6 AMG that's been rebuilt following Black Death and the dreaded oil cooler failure. I have a small problem the person who removed the turbocharger is making more excuses than the average poltician so I've put it back on, however, as I didn't remove all the electronic plugs, I don't know where they go. The main issue is this 12pin socket at the front of the engine (Drivers Side UK/Passenger USA) See images.

Can someone advise where that 12 pin plug goes ?

Differential seal replacement on 2015 Mercedes ML350 4matic.

MartinW — Wed, 06 May 2026 19:23:04 GMT

So the front differential axle seal is leaking on our 2015 Mercedes ML350 4matic. I discovered it while doing an oil change that there was a little oil hanging off the differential housing and its attachment point and I could trace it back to the axle seal on the front differential passenger side. There was also a little oil on the inside of the belly pan and I would estimate it to be approx. 50ml, so not a whole lot. This presumably started with the lower control arm and strut replacement that required the axles to be removed - that is about 1000miles ago. Does it require a special tool to replace the seal? - particularly to get it in.
Thank you in advance
Martin

Alligator Clips From Booster Pack do not fit on +ve Battery Terminal in Engine Bay

Qikslime — Tue, 05 May 2026 12:41:03 GMT

Hi all. I have a Powerall XL3 booster pack, which fortunately i have never had to use on my ML63. Tonight i did have reason to use it to diagnose something and turns out the heavy duty alligator clips that come with this booster pack are simply too big to fit inside the plastic surrounded positive battery terminal in the engine bay.

I would prefer not to have to buy a different booster pack. I could maybe buy the NOCO GBC003 Heavy Duty Precision Boost Battery Clamps which could work, but i dont know if theier plug is compatible with my booster pack.

Final option would be to cut the plastic that surrounds the terminal in the engine bay. Never seems like a good choice.

Has anyone else had this problem, and if so, how did you solve it.

2013 ml550 no trailer lights!!!!!!!!!!!!!

12master — Mon, 27 Apr 2026 19:39:10 GMT

hello, I got a new to me 2013 ml550 with factory trailer hitch,, and I can not get the trailer lights to work! I already bought the curt 57004 adapter (unless is not the right adapter either!), that is supposed to work, and nothing, all fuses related that I can find are good, my code scanner shows no faults in the trailer module, what else can I check? worst case scenario, what trailer wiring kit can I use for the trailer lights?