MBWorld.org Forums - S-Class (W221)

Missing wheel lock key on 2012 S550 Base (No Spare Tire) - Any hidden factory spots?

LottiBiscotti — Tue, 26 May 2026 20:58:00 GMT

Hey everyone,

I just took my 2012 S550 Base (W221) into the shop today for a brake flush and tire rotation, but the mechanic hit a wall because he can't find the wheel lock key. I bought the car back in December and this is my first time needing the wheels off, so I didn't even realize it had locks installed.

My car doesn't have a physical spare tire in the trunk (just the inflator setup), so it's not tucked away in a traditional spare wheel well.

Before I give up and head to the dealership to have them use a master key or extract them, are there any highly specific, hidden factory storage spots or tool compartments on the W221 where this key usually hides? We've already checked the standard glovebox and the main center console.

Any advice on hidden pockets, or tips on the easiest way to get these removed/replaced in the area would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance.

Steel Wheels

427Galaxie — Sun, 24 May 2026 19:52:05 GMT

I need to get a set of winter wheels for my 13. Was wondering if anyone knows a vender who sells 18 or 19" steel wheels with TPS? Last year I ran a set of 20s from a friends s600. Would rather just have a steel wheel to deal with potholes. Thanks!

Leather touch up dye

Guernz — Sat, 23 May 2026 22:55:20 GMT

I am having trouble finding a matching leather dye for code 211 anthracite leather. I have tried Auto Leather Dye and Leather World Technologies and the color is lighter. My car has always been garaged and the rear seat was never sat in, so I don�t believe the original dye is worn or faded. Does anyone have experience matching a premixed dye?

Active windshield washer fluid leak � Driver's side wheel well (M278 / W221)

LottiBiscotti — Thu, 21 May 2026 00:10:39 GMT

Hey everyone,

Just noticed an active leak on my 2012 S550. It�s dropping fluid pretty rapidly right under the front driver�s side wheel well, dripping down onto the concrete off the edge of the belly pan.

I know the reservoir tank and washer pump live right behind that front driver's side fender liner. I uploaded a quick clip to YouTube showing how fast it�s actively dripping while parked in the garage:

The car is heading to an independent shop next week for some routine preventative maintenance (coolant flush, brake fluid flush, and a new serpentine belt/pulleys). I have an aftermarket warranty (Endurance Diamond), so I'm going to have the shop trace the leak and try to file a claim.

From what I understand, if the plastic body of the washer pump itself is cracked/leaking, Endurance should cover it under electrical/components. If it�s just the $3 rubber sealing grommet at the bottom of the tank or a cracked reservoir, it�ll be out of pocket.

A few questions for the W221 experts here:

1 For those who have had this exact driver's side puddle, was it usually just the rubber grommet failing, or does the plastic pump housing tend to crack on these?

2 If Endurance denies the claim because it's a non-covered tank or grommet, what's a fair labor time for a shop to swap it out while the wheel/liner are already loose?

Appreciate any insight or tips before I drop it off next week!

Check Engine code diagnostic tool

Djackson13 — Tue, 19 May 2026 16:36:44 GMT

I recently had a check engine light to come on in my 2015 S Class. I am right at about 81k miles and havent had any significant repair issues in the 6 years Ive owned the car. Just wanted to know if anyone can recommend an OBD scanner that will work best for me to pull the code and do some research on the cause of the check engine light.. I will eventually take it to a Benz dealer but wanted to tke some initial steps to get an idea of what I am dealing with.
So, I would appreciate any suggestions and recommendations on the OBD scanning tool that would be best to use at home for a non-mechanic such as myself. PLEASE NOTE THAT I DID REALIZE I AM POSTING IN THE W221 FORUM WHILE MY CAR IS W222. I HAVE ALREADY REPOSTED IN THAT FORUM, SO MY APOLOGIES FOR THAT. :-(
ANY AND ALL

responses will be greatly appreciated.

S-Class W221 2012 - Windscreen washer jet blocked. How to access the washer jets

thisisbigboss — Tue, 19 May 2026 13:58:55 GMT

All. One of the washer jets in my S-Class 2012 is not spouting (the one on the right - driver side for a RHD vehicle - UK) so I am guessing its blocked. I tried inserting the pins into the two openings visible from the outside but that didn't help.
So need to access the hose and the jet washer from the inside of the hood. Unfortunately, that bit is all covered up by trims under the hood and I am not sure how to safely remove these trims to get to the hose and washer jets. Seems there are two of these trims with one overlapping another.

Anyone who has done it before and can guide me. Is it an easy job or a pain in the butt?

Stuck in Sport Mode

Chachd72 — Mon, 18 May 2026 15:05:13 GMT

As I pulled out of the driveway I noticed that the throttle response was increased and saw that the "Sport" light on the dashboard was on. Pushing the button to release it did nothing and I am stuck in sport mode.
Any way to get back to normal mode? I couldn't find anything in this forum but in a general google search it mentioned a bad sensor on a strut could be the cause.

2011 S550 4matic
175,000 miles
Installed Arnots at 140,000 miles

2008 w221 base model. Red battery on dash.

W223motivation — Sun, 17 May 2026 15:54:24 GMT

My s550 wouldn�t crank one day, tested the engine battery and it came back bad battery. Bought a new battery from Mercedes and got the test ran again, �good battery, good starter, bad charging system� Being that my car made a humming sound as well as the bad charging system, I assumed this was my alternator. I continued to drive the car and didn�t notice any electrical issues or failures. At least 3 months later, after continuously driving the vehicle daily, I cranked the car up and the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree with all kinds of symbols even my check engine light. I know my check engine light shouldn�t be on so that immediately raised a red flag as well as remembering reading once your alternator goes out or is about to go out completely this will occur. Days following this i would try and crank the car just to try and move it and some days it would crank and others it wouldn�t. I bought a USED OEM Bosch alternator that was tested and good to replace my current alternator. After replacing the alternator that was in my car with the used one, the car cranked right up no problem but now there is a red battery icon that constantly pops up on the dash after the car is running for a minute or so. I even went and got both batteries tested in the car (good) but the scanner still reads �BAD CHARGING SYSTEM�. CAN SOMEONE PLEASE POINT ME IN A DIRECTION TO GO FROM HERE?

steering wheel button replacement

RichDMB — Sun, 17 May 2026 13:01:46 GMT

So for $30 on Amazon you can get the 4 button set for the steering wheel. The listing says you just need to pop out the old ones and press in the new ones, sounds simple. Has anyone tried these?

Amazon.com: Partscollect Black Interior Steering Wheel Button Replacement Kit Compatible for Mercedes-Benz W221 S- CLASS S550 S450 S600 S65 S350 S400 S500 CL550 CL630 2007-2010 : Automotive

2012 S550 (M278) - Sanity check on belt/pulley refresh parts

LottiBiscotti — Fri, 15 May 2026 15:51:52 GMT

Hey everyone,

I�m getting ready to do a full belt drive refresh on my 2012 S550 (M278). I'm starting to hear a brief screech on cold starts that goes away after a minute or two, so I�m assuming it�s a dry bearing in an idler or a tired tensioner.

I�m trying to stick with Gates, Febi, or INA to avoid the dealer tax. Can someone confirm if I have the right count and part numbers for a full "front of engine" refresh?

Current Shopping List:

Belt: Continental 6K2390
Tensioner: INA 2762000370
Smooth Idler #1: Gates 2782020619 (Between PS and AC)
Smooth Idler #2: Febi 2782020219 (Upper rigid one with the screw)
Grooved Idler: Gates 2782020519 (Ribbed)

Total: 1 Belt, 1 Tensioner, and 3 Idler Pulleys.

Does this cover all the "accessory" pulleys that are meant to be replaced, or is there a 4th one I'm missing? Also, if anyone has the torque specs for these, that would be awesome so I can pass them to my tech.

I'm also doing a coolant (Zerex G48) and brake fluid (ATE SL.6) flush while we're at it. Any other "while you're in there" items I should grab?

Appreciate the help!

Shop broke my S550? Leak, snapped dipstick, and mystery cut wires after brake job

LottiBiscotti — Wed, 13 May 2026 01:29:08 GMT

Hey guys,

Need some advice on how to handle a situation with a shop. I just got my 2012 S550 base back after it was in for about two weeks. They were doing a warranty claim and a full front brake job (new rotors and pads). I spent a good amount of money, but I�ve found three things since getting it home that have me really frustrated.

1. Washer Fluid Leak: I�ve got a steady puddle of orange washer fluid dripping right under the driver-side front tire. I know the reservoir and the pumps are behind that fender liner, and since they just did the front brakes and were looking at my suspension/mounts, they were obviously right in there. Did they likely bump a hose or jar a pump grommet loose? It was 100% bone dry when I dropped it off.

2. Broken Oil Dipstick: This is the most annoying part. I went to check the oil and the handle is completely snapped off. Not only that, but the rest of the stick is shoved all the way down into the tube so I can�t even pull it out. I looked it up and it�s a $100 part. It feels like someone was just being reckless under the hood.

3. Cut Wires and Loose Screws: I popped the hood and found a wire that was clearly cut, just sitting on top of the radiator support, along with a couple of loose screws. I have no idea what it went to, but finding "extra" screws and cut wires after a "professional" inspection is a huge red flag for me.

I�m taking it back tomorrow morning to talk to the owner. I appreciate that they helped with the warranty stuff, but I feel like they rushed the reassembly and broke stuff in the process.

Has anyone dealt with a washer leak after having the fender liners moved? And any idea what that wire on the radiator might be for before I go in there? I don't want to get pushed around by the shop saying this is just "old car problems" when they were the last ones touching it.

Thanks for any help.

W221 2010 Trunk won't open

Panorama 2010 — Tue, 12 May 2026 14:27:28 GMT

Hi,
My car is S350 2010, the trunk won't open using the Fob or inside button. I tried the manual key but it won't turn either way at all. There is no switch in the glove box to lock/unlock the trunk.
I disconnected the main battery for a few minutes but it did not help.

Any suggestions please

Regards

W221 M273 ME9.7 No Crank/No Start � ME, EGS & ISM Offline, PRND Dead, Drivetrain CAN/

Dash P. — Sun, 10 May 2026 20:26:36 GMT

** Hi all, please bear with me as this is a long and fairly complex issue that has evolved over a long period of time, and I�m trying to provide as much technical detail and diagnostic information as possible to avoid random guessing or parts swapping and so the issue can hopefully be narrowed down properly. **

I�m dealing with a major no-crank/no-start issue on my W221 S-Class, chassis 221.071 with the M273 engine and BOSCH ME9.7 ECU. The car has been parked for a while now (~1 month), and I�m trying to get it running again. The issue has developed into a situation where the car powers up, shows multiple drivetrain/ESP/battery faults on the dash, displays a red battery warning icon, and will not crank or start. The starter itself is not the main suspect because it has previously been proven capable of operating when jumped manually. The problem appears to be something disabling crank authorization or preventing the engine ECU/drivetrain network from waking and communicating properly.

The dash currently shows multiple warnings including ABS/ESP inoperative, run-flat indicator inoperative, visit workshop without shifting gears, and the red battery warning icon. On the gear selector display, there are no boxes/highlights around P R N D at all. The gear display appears �dead� or inactive. Through my ODB2 scanner, I am unable to communicate with the ME/engine ECU, transmission module/EGS, or the ISM module while installed in the vehicle. However, most other vehicle systems/modules are still accessible through Xentry and scanner.

The ISM module itself has already been replaced with another unit previously, but I was unable to proceed with proper teach-in/adaptation because communication with the ISM was not possible. Since the ECU, EGS/transmission, and ISM are all simultaneously offline/inaccessible in the vehicle, I suspected a drivetrain CAN, wakeup, Terminal 87, or front SAM-related issue rather than three independent module failures. One interesting detail is that the ISM does make spinning/motorized sounds when the key is removed from the EIS and also when locking the vehicle via key fob for a few seconds, which suggests it is at least partially alive and reacting to vehicle state changes. However, despite those sounds, the gear selector display remains inactive and the module is still inaccessible through diagnostics while installed in the car.

The original suspicion was the ME9.7 ECU because of very strange behavior observed both in the car and on the bench. With the original ECU installed in the vehicle, communication with drivetrain modules was missing. The ECU appeared to affect the CAN bus when plugged in. Previously, with the ECU disconnected, CAN readings looked more stable, around the normal 60R termination (�0.5R) and normal CAN voltages. With the ECU connected, drivetrain CAN voltages became skewed, and multiple modules such as the engine ECU, transmission control unit, and ISM appeared offline or inaccessible. However, after obtaining a donor ECU, it behaved properly on the bench but still disappeared when installed in the vehicle, I am now confused as to what module/power feed/wakeup path/CAN branch in the car may be collapsing the network or preventing proper ECU initialization in-car. More on this later on.

To investigate the CAN and power distribution side more deeply, I stripped a large portion of the interior and accessed drivetrain CAN splice areas and related harnessing. I followed wiring manually using WIS diagrams, tracing lines between the ECU, front SAM, drivetrain splice points, X26 connectors, and related modules. I performed extensive continuity testing between multiple harness sections and connectors, especially around drivetrain CAN and Terminal 87/wakeup-related wiring. I verified continuity through several front SAM paths and checked multiple fuse and relay related circuits. Resistance across drivetrain CAN was generally around the expected 60R, but voltages on drivetrain and chassis CAN-L and CAN-H changed depending on what modules were connected. Another important detail is that while measuring drivetrain CAN directly on the ECU harness connectors with the ECU connected in the vehicle, CAN-H and CAN-L did not appear to sit at normal idle behavior around ~2.5V each with proper activity. Instead, the lines appeared skewed/statically biased, often with little or no visible CAN activity. Interestingly, CAN behavior appeared more stable once the ECU was disconnected, which was one of the original reasons I suspected the ECU may have been disturbing the drivetrain CAN network.

I also performed voltage injection tests using a power probe into specific lines and connector sleeves related to Terminal 87 and ECU wakeup feeds. In several cases, injecting voltage caused temporary behavioral changes in the car and network. Some lines that should have been active (in theory) showed 0V until externally energized, which even then didn�t allow the car to crank/start. Certain wakeup-related lines around X26 and Terminal 87 M1i behaved inconsistently, which increased suspicion toward a power distribution or wakeup/control issue rather than a simple dead ECU. I traced continuity between front SAM sections and engine harness paths, and verified several large pre-fuse and busbar connections. The issue became especially confusing because some circuits appeared electrically correct during continuity testing but the ECU and drivetrain network still failed to wake or communicate reliably in the car. The engine is also not locked up as I was able to manually turn it over using the crank pulley.

On the bench, the original ME9.7 ECU could communicate with Xentry, it was identified correctly, but it showed an internal battery voltage/ADC fault. Xentry reported battery voltage inside the ECU at around 1.6�1.7 V even though the bench power supply was feeding the ECU with 12�13 V. There was also a current/stored fault related to engine electronics voltage supply/battery voltage too low for ADC, P0607. Because of that, I suspected an internal ECU power/reference rail issue. I also heard a high-pitched squealing or electronic noise when the original ECU was installed in the car and with key at position 2. That sound was not present on the bench, which made me think the ECU may have been failing only under vehicle load.

I then opened and inspected the original ECU and found a slightly leaking blue electrolytic capacitor (in its beginning stages) near the orange connector/busbar area, marked 470�F 35V, but not catastrophic failure-level. Cleaning the area with IPA seemed to make more fluid appear, which made the capacitor suspicious. No board damage was observed, at least from the top and bottom of the ECU, neither was there blackened sections near the capacitor like you�d see on some ME9.7 ECUs with severe damage from the electrolytic capacitor fluid which is corrosive and destructive. The power IC would overheat within 15 seconds of powering on the ECU on the bench to the point of burning your finger, all of which resoldering the IC's legs fixed, probably due to poor contact between the legs and pads or had cracked solder joints from heat cycles and age. I also found that certain internal rails seemed stuck around 1.7 V. Pin 5/wake or relay-control-related circuitry also measured around 1.7 V repeatedly. Touching a fresh discharged capacitor to the removed blue capacitor pad momentarily rose that rail to around 3 V before it decayed again. Some ICs and driver circuits showed related voltages around that same abnormal range. This made me strongly suspect the original ECU had an internal rail/reference fault or power management fault.

Because of that, like I previously mentioned, I bought a used donor ECU with exact matching numbers. I inspected the donor externally before installing it. It looks relatively clean for a used module, and most importantly, there are no obvious signs of prying, lid deformation, tampering, localized heat spots, corrosion, burn marks, or bad smells. Before installing the donor ECU in the car, I tested it on the bench, the donor ECU communicated properly on the bench, Xentry could enter the ME9.7 control unit, read control unit version, live values, fault codes, event memory, and drive authorization values. Current draw looked stable and logical. With the ECU ON and idling on the bench, current draw was about 0.510A on the PSU. With only Xentry connected, current rose to about 0.560�0.570 A. And with only the scanner connected, current draw was around 0.980�0.990 A. There were no abnormal smells, no obvious overheating, and no aggressive noises on the bench.

The donor ECU showed typical bench faults, which are expected because the ECU was powered alone without the rest of the car connected. Faults included open circuit faults for oxygen sensor heater circuits, accelerator pedal sensor fault, coolant temperature sensor open/short to positive, pressure sensor open/short to positive, and event memory faults for no CAN message from transmission and traction systems. These made sense on the bench because those components and modules were not connected. Drive authorization data showed initialized, transport protection detached, personalized, and activated as YES, and start enable showed YES in the ECU�s own data. The donor also showed the same 1.6V battery voltage reading in Xentry even though the PSU was set to 12V. Since this was the second ECU to show that reading while otherwise communicating normally on the bench, I now think that specific 1.6V value may not be a reliable raw supply voltage reading in a bench setup, or may depend on missing vehicle conditions.

After the donor ECU passed bench testing, I installed it into the car. But unfortunately (and with a heavy heart), the car still showed the same dash faults, including the red battery warning icon, and still had no crank/no start. The battery also seemed to lose charge quickly even with a 25A charger connected (which FYI I later connected a jump starter just to see if I get any signs of life but to no avail). I then tried to communicate with the engine ECU through Xentry while installed in the car, but I could not enter the ME module in the vehicle.

This is the big issue now: The donor ECU communicates normally on the bench but becomes inaccessible when installed in the car. That makes me think the problem may not be the ECU itself anymore, but something in the car preventing the ECU from waking, powering properly, or communicating on CAN.

The current working theory is that something in the vehicle-side infrastructure is disabling crank or killing ECU communication, or another module dragging the drivetrain CAN bus down. Earlier in diagnosis, Terminal 87-related behavior was already suspicious. I had found weird behavior around terminal 87 M1i / X26 wiring, including circuits that had 0V unless power was injected. Injecting power in some areas caused temporary changes, suggesting a wakeup or supply path problem. I also previously checked pre-fuse and front SAM-related wiring and found odd symptoms around power distribution.

At this point, both ECUs communicate on the bench, but neither is accessible in the vehicle. The original ECU may still have internal issues beyond surface level, perhaps deeper in the multi-layer board, but the fact that the matching donor behaves the same way in-car strongly suggests there is also a vehicle-side issue. The car still has no crank, no start, dash faults, red battery icon, fast battery drain, and ME inaccessible through Xentry or OBD2 scanner when installed. The front-end is dependent on whatever feed or wakeup path is failing there.

I have started checking/replacing fuses in the front SAM area to establish a clean baseline but obviously throwing parts at the car is not the solution here especially on a car like the W221 which is essentially a rolling computer network on wheels.

Also, small backstory, the issue first began when I drove the car and parked it for ~1 hour, then came back and the car would start briefly and shut off on its own, accelerator pedal input was ignored for some reason, and the starts where really soft starts, not the known aggressive powerful jump at startup. Then after a few times it would not start, only crank. Got the car towed, and while diagnosing, came to turn ignition ON and the dash lit up like a Christmas tree and lost all comms to drivetrain CAN. The scanner will not automatically identify or enter the vehicle as it normally would. Instead, I have to manually select the chassis/model and manually navigate into the systems menu in an attempt to access modules individually.

What I urgently need help with now is narrowing down the exact part of the W221�s start authorization/power distribution/drivetrain CAN chain or honestly ANYTHING that can realistically cause this combination of symptoms because at this point, I�m genuinely starting to lose my mind with this car and I urgently need it back on the road. I�ve gone far beyond basic diagnostics and random parts swapping. I�ve stripped interior sections, traced wiring through WIS diagrams, accessed drivetrain CAN splice points, performed continuity testing across harness sections, monitored CAN voltages under different module configurations, injected voltage into suspected wakeup/Terminal 87 circuits, replaced the ISM, bench-tested both original and donor ME9.7 ECUs, monitored current draw behavior, inspected the original ECU internally down to component level, and verified multiple fuse/power distribution paths. Despite all of this, the core issue remains: the drivetrain side of the car appears offline, the ME/EGS/ISM remain inaccessible in the vehicle, the PRND display is dead, the car throws multiple drivetrain/battery/ESP faults, and there is still absolutely no crank/no start. From my earlier EIS/EZS readings, EZS/EIS turn enable issued = YES, A80 ISM start enable = NO, ME (engine ECU) start enable = NO. And there were also drivetrain CAN timeout indications and EIS reporting ISM not communicating.

And for the record, the ECU, EGS, and ISM are all part of the drivetrain CAN/start authorization chain and are heavily interdependent during wakeup and operation. In practice, if one critical part of that chain goes down, whether it�s CAN communication, wakeup power, gateway communication, or one of the modules themselves, all three can appear offline simultaneously. And the Central Gateway Unit (ZGW) is the bridge that lets diagnostics and the rest of the car �see� them.

Any detailed guidance, measurements, test procedures, or known failure points would be hugely appreciated because I�m trying to avoid throwing more modules at the car and instead finally isolate the root cause properly.

Cooked ME9.7 ECU or ?

BOTUS — Thu, 07 May 2026 19:05:24 GMT

What a pain, I started getting odd errors all the time in diagnostics as of a year ago - but car drove 100% normal - EWS, ME9.7, Throttle Body Iced up, CAT sensors, blah blah blah, they have always cleared, sometime stayed away for a few weeks at a time or other times came back quick but car drove exactly as you'd expect.

8 Months ago I fit a new thermostat car seemed happy (used a Gates one as i don't trust Merc parts at all anymore

Then 6 months ago I start getting the silly Battery Icon on the cluster. This seems to stay no matter what from one day to the next - but goes away for the whole day after you key on off cycle the car.

I'm often saying to others cooked ECU - but I was hoping mine at 73 k miles was OK

Arrie, has mentioned a few times he's seen weird stuff with the CGW causing random errors... So 2 months back got someone to solder up the original CGW pins as he suggested - no different - same random errors, car still drives perfectly

For other vehicles I have just updated my Snap On scanner to 26.2 AKA the current April 2026 release - which also has the SureTrack feature (this is an online database of what everyone else thinks is wrong ). Tried it on the car just one drive after clearing everything using Xentry. And Snap on found the Throttle body jammed code, CAT sensors overheating, and a new one with No Can message from the CGW

I looked at SureTrack for error code "1337 Alternator Serial Interface", then laughed, then cleared the "Fake errors"

Maybe someone here can help - is the water pump 100% mechanical - I thought so - no wires or electronics ? Sure all modern stuff cracks the plastic impeller off its shaft one day as the vehicles age - that’s a normal designed to fail extra they have forced upon us in last 20 plus years - but the car was driving normally, so I didn't think Snap On was giving any sound advice here

But need to start trying to sort these errors - so first stop lets try my other CGW - at the weekend BenzNinja flashed the correct software at my later HW CGW and I coded it 100% spot on - car was happy and driving well.

Drove today without getting the Battery Icon on the cluster - but for good measure thought I'd double check that EWS TIPS document I'd found saying in 2021 all Mercs need a software update - popped in to a local indie with Online Xentry - turns out there is no EWS update, and it and CGW are both on latest and its all coded correctly with NO errors on the car... Yet I'd heard the cooling fan rev up on the way which its never done before

Drove home puzzled about EWS and the fan thing - I was hoping that was going to be my cheap fix.... Ripped it for a bit on the way back car driving well

Left it 4 hours - where I had taken off the Front SAM cover and checked all the fuses, as my front cigarette lighter hadn't charged up my phone - and reseated a few relays - everything was normal - then trickled back home 4 miles, whereupon I heard the fan go to flat out and stay on - looked at the temp gauge it looked normal - but seconds later its climbing... Can't be drive too short and going slow ??? key on Off cycled the car fan cuts out. Restarted temp gauge flying up and fan cuts in again.

Parked up and just detected it might be a little warm. But fan turned off as I took the key out. Opened bonnet and found top hose, high pressure and Hot - Can't be really hot unless maybe the pump is shot, or the thermostat isn't opening....touched both Cam covers HOT, Top hose HOT, Bottom Hose properly Cold

if the pump hasn't got any electronics how come Snap On has 18 customers replacing the water pump - but two Xentry systems have no idea ??? or is it the ME9.7 has got cooked and its throwing silliness everywhere ?

Communication fauls

2481977dullA — Mon, 04 May 2026 12:55:39 GMT

Combination fault of component A86/1b2 (left inner radar sensor)
Previously, communication faults were also observed in component A86/1b3.
Does anyone have experience with this?
i have a Merce. w221 350 benzin 2013 import from jappan.
Thanks