MBWorld.org Forums - GLK-Class (X204)

Has anyone succeeded using a 75 degree offset to loosen the strut mount nut?

hiyens472 — Sun, 17 May 2026 15:04:13 GMT

Clarification: I'm wondering if the offset wrench will fit on the nut, giving the tight spaces.

I've attached a picture describing my concern:

Edit: I've found a pass through 21 mm socket, this seems like the only method, unless you're willing to scar the piston with pliers and use an impact wrench to loosen the nut. Additionally the 12 point spline is meant to accommodate various shapes, e.g. torx or hex.

Strange clip position on the exhaust pipe

uniplexed — Sat, 16 May 2026 03:57:24 GMT

While working underneath the car, I found that the clip that connects the exhaust pipe positioned a bit strangely.
The bolt of the clip is facing sideway which exposed it lower than the splash guard. My gut feeling says that this is not right.
Maybe the dealership mechanic who worked on diesel emission campaign didn't pay attention well. Where is the right direction the bolt head should head to?

Oil Leak form the drivers side catalytic

MB4WDGLK350 — Thu, 14 May 2026 01:11:44 GMT

I have a very strange oil leak on my 2015 GLK350, oil seems to be leaking from the bottom of the drivers cat converter, there is no signs of oil leak anywhere else, drain plug, oil pan etc, not even running down the bellhousing. Anyone else ever had this issue, or thoughts?
Cheers,

Need help no start no crank

Samxprp — Tue, 12 May 2026 02:28:56 GMT

I was driving in wet conditions when I noticed the tpms light turn on. I stepped out to check for a flat tire but nothing was wrong. I turned the car off to restart but it would not even crank and every single sensor was malfunctioning or had an error message.

It's not the starter, that turns over when given 12v with a probe. Not the starter relay. Here are the codes that a $4000 scan tool brings up.

Does anyone have any idea or where I should start for diag?

2015 glk 350 buying advice, P061B.

Marek.1290 — Sun, 10 May 2026 04:01:15 GMT

So looking to get a 2015 glk 350, 98,000 miles to use for driving to work and just in general. I went to look at this one today. Looks clean, Carfax checked out for the most part recently at a Mercedes dealer. Only things about it that was off to me was codes cleared 21km ago but no current codes. When I asked, it�s being sold by a private dealer, according to Carfax I guess he�s had it for 2 weeks since that Mercedes dealer sold it. He said he got the car scanned two days ago and had fault P061B. After some research it could be maf sensor or throttle body. So not CEL and car idled smooth, revved up fine, drove fine no hesitation a bit jerky on sport mode but that wasn�t worrying. I heard a rhythmic rotational �vroom-vroom-vroom� type noise. After accelerating to 40mph and letting off gas, It seemed more noticeable from the rear of the vehicle, though the seller said it may be front brakes which I know need replacing. I told him I�d want to rescan it after he drove it more because it didn�t show readiness on all sensors yet but is there anything specific I can check that will let me know if it�s mechanical/throttle body or a sensor?

GLK250 - Which Rear Coil Springs?

pathfinder_88 — Fri, 08 May 2026 20:13:43 GMT

So we recently picked up an inexpensive GLK250 and I�ve been picking away at a few issues. After inspecting the rear suspension for a floaty/sway feeling I�ve found the left coil has a broken piece at the bottom. It looks like some have had success replacing without a specific compressor so will tackle this myself. After reading comments, some have had issues with Sachs and other brands increasing ride height. I definitely don�t want it to ride higher and have contemplated lowering. Can anyone comment on springs that won�t raise the rear? Should I grab a set of lowering springs and just throw the rears in for now if I was thinking of going this route? Personal experiences appreciated.

Thanks!

Loud clunk noise while moving

uniplexed — Wed, 06 May 2026 04:21:12 GMT

Hi all,

It's been for a while since I posted in this forum last time. My 2013 GLK250 4matic has been running well without a problem so far, then since this morning, it started making loud clunk noise while moving especially when depressing accelerator halfway or release the accelerator and let the car move in a momentum. Video attached. In the video it did not record loud enough, but it is indeed super loud metal clunking noise that looks matched to car speed. It was so loud that people on the street stared at me.

Also, the car moves and stops but I feel that the movement is a bit off (delayed?) in timing. I have searched internet and ChatGPT and both suggested faulty transfer case (yes it is a 4matic) or broken driveshaft center support bearing. Has anyone experienced this? Do you have some rough idea how much would it cost? I have learned a lot about repairing Mercedes cars from this forum (thank you!) but not sure if it would be feasible/worth it/safe for me to fix it by myself given that it looks related to drivetrain.

Thanks!

Attached Files

Untitled.mov (17.61 MB)

M276- Airbox Rubber Mounts/Dampers

bmwstephen — Tue, 05 May 2026 17:15:58 GMT

Does anyone have any idea (or know the part numbers) from Mercedes for the m276 airbox rubber mounts? or other creative solutions...

As seen here these pieces slip onto both bottom ends of the airbox, and then slipped onto brackets mounted on the engine.

12-16 Mercedes W204 C300 E350 M276 Air Intake Cleaner Filter Housing Box | eBay

Mine are torn as depicted there.

GLK vibrating when going into drive and reverse

llashh — Tue, 05 May 2026 13:50:24 GMT

Hi all, I figured I should've posted here in the first place, I'm a relatively new owner to my GLK250 and may I say, it is my baby at this point. I'm experiencing an issue where whenever I go into drive or reverse, my car starts vibrating, and stops when I put it in park or neutral. For context, a good 6 months ago maybe, I was pulling out of my driveway and couldn't drive or reverse, after checking it out, my axle popped out. I replaced it with an aftermarket and ever since my axle popped out, this vibration has been occuring. Any thoughts as to what it could be would be greatly appreciated!

Full size spare

arocarty — Mon, 04 May 2026 23:21:18 GMT

Could anyone use a full-size spare tire &wheel for their GLK? Fits 2008-1015 GLKs, 19 x 7 1/2 , 112mm bolt pattern (5x112 bolt pattern). 204 type, 10 spoke, Mercedes OEM. Michelin Premier LTX (not RunFlat) 235/50R19. Tire has about 5/32nds of tread remaining. I carried it when going on longer trips for peace of mind, didn't want rely on repair kits, finding repair center, etc. Paid about $200 for the wheel, be happy to sell for $50. Traded in my GLK in Dec., so no longer need it. Located in Central CT

Relay help please

gjovenicera1995 — Mon, 04 May 2026 10:12:09 GMT

Okay guy long short story I have lose few of the relays when I was working on the car the letters that are in the relays that I have lose it�s L R and Q

please if someone one have glk220 from 2010 diesel and have the time to send me the oem numbers for the relays that I can go to buy them

GLK250 Voltage Converter Module

Driveglk250 — Tue, 28 Apr 2026 00:58:49 GMT

My 2014 GLK250 does not have the Eco Start/Stop, and no auxiliary battery.
However, I get a "Auxiliary Battery Malfunction" alert on the dash. Does anyone else
have this? Anyone know how to replace it?

Also, does anyone know of a good Benz mechanic in the northwest Chicago?

Driveshaft Flex Joints Replacement

CERNICALO1 — Thu, 23 Apr 2026 16:37:46 GMT

Hi Folks,

I am in the middle of replacing my Flex Joints (GUIBO) on my 2015 GLK350.
-Unit at Transmission end (front) was easy to remove (Driveshaft slid towards rear, no problem).
-Unit at Differential end (rear) is proving "very difficult" (impossible) to remove (Driveshaft does not slide towards front).

I have just learned the driveshaft in this vehicle looks as shown below, with U-Joint in the aftt section of the assembly.

Has anyone worked through the replacement of the Flex Joints already?
Does the support bearing bracket at the center of the Driveshaft absolutelly need to be unmounted in order to make enough space for the rear Flex Joint (@Differential) to be removed?

Thanks!