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Vender is providing two quotes for powder coating. Vehicle drop off or running board drop off. How difficult is it to remove running boards.
Appreciate any response.
Vender is providing two quotes for powder coating. Vehicle drop off or running board drop off. How difficult is it to remove running boards.
Appreciate any response.
There was an earlier post on this topic a few weks ago - think it was started by Bob Z, who applied black film to his. I'm thinking about a powder coat also, but someone said removal and reinsertion of the rubber strips is difficult. But if you are able to do this please post your experience.
There was an earlier post on this topic a few weks ago - think it was started by Bob Z, who applied black film to his. I'm thinking about a powder coat also, but someone said removal and reinsertion of the rubber strips is difficult. But if you are able to do this please post your experience.
I saw that thread....considered and decided to powder coat instead. Vendor is confirming precisely this issue. Will post up his response once they have researched and replied. Possible that once removed,it cannot be reinstalled and new rubber must be inserted. Will update.
There was an earlier post on this topic a few weks ago - think it was started by Bob Z, who applied black film to his. I'm thinking about a powder coat also, but someone said removal and reinsertion of the rubber strips is difficult. But if you are able to do this please post your experience.
Originally Posted by Theatrix1
I saw that thread....considered and decided to powder coat instead. Vendor is confirming precisely this issue. Will post up his response once they have researched and replied. Possible that once removed,it cannot be reinstalled and new rubber must be inserted. Will update.
You can reinstall the rubber strips, but it is an absolute PITA. Like several hours per side, and you will be frustrated the entire time because it is very slow and difficult to do. How much have they quoted you for the two options? Taking the running boards off is not that tough, just time consuming. Taking the rubber strips out will take some time, but nothing like trying to get them back in. If you are keeping the truck for a long time then I can see going the powdercoat option, but honeslty the vinyl holds up pretty well, and other than part under the driver's door where you step frequently it doesn't mark up at all.
One thing to think about for reinstalling is using some lube (like dish soap), but even then it's not easy. It ends up making the rubber slick to hold onto, so it would be best as a two man job with one person pushing the rubber on, and a second person applying lubricant of some sort just to the section that is getting inserted (and probably further up the inside channel of the running board as you get farther along with each piece).
One thing to think about for reinstalling is using some lube (like dish soap), but even then it's not easy. It ends up making the rubber slick to hold onto, so it would be best as a two man job with one person pushing the rubber on, and a second person applying lubricant of some sort just to the section that is getting inserted (and probably further up the inside channel of the running board as you get farther along with each piece).
I've found that rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle works well as a rubber lubricant in applications such as installing rubber grips on tool handles. It evaporates quickly so you have to keep adding it, but unlike soap, it's not slick and there's no residue.
Can someone describe the removal/reinstall a bit more? Are the strips pryed out vertically to remove and slid in horizontally to reinstall? Anyone have pics?
I've found that rubbing alcohol in a spray bottle works well as a rubber lubricant in applications such as installing rubber grips on tool handles. It evaporates quickly so you have to keep adding it, but unlike soap, it's not slick and there's no residue.
Can someone describe the removal/reinstall a bit more? Are the strips pryed out vertically to remove and slid in horizontally to reinstall? Anyone have pics?
The alcohol is a great idea. Definitely easier to handle than soap.
I have not done the removal/install myself, but talked with a guy here in Houston that did them since the shop he was using for install of his bodykit didn't want to mess with it. It took him a couple hours to remove, but I think he said something like 6+ hours to get it all back together. I think he said you can indeed pry them out vertically, but reinstall can only be done by sliding them back in the channel. If you try to push them in the rubber retaining edge doesn't want to push through into the channel, and if you use a tool of some sort (like a screwdriver) you end up marring the rubber strips.
I have not done the removal/install myself, but talked with a guy here in Houston that did them since the shop he was using for install of his bodykit didn't want to mess with it. It took him a couple hours to remove, but I think he said something like 6+ hours to get it all back together. I think he said you can indeed pry them out vertically, but reinstall can only be done by sliding them back in the channel. If you try to push them in the rubber retaining edge doesn't want to push through into the channel, and if you use a tool of some sort (like a screwdriver) you end up marring the rubber strips.
That makes sense. I'm guessing that the MB factory has special automated tooling that installs the strips in a matter of seconds - kinda like the machines tire shops use to mount tires (ever tried doing this with paddle bars?).
That makes sense. I'm guessing that the MB factory has special automated tooling that installs the strips in a matter of seconds - kinda like the machines tire shops use to mount tires (ever tried doing this with paddle bars?).
I actually have helped do it with tire spoons before. It took three of us using spoons, and rags, and feet, and hands, and anything else we could find to mount the 40x15.50r22 Toyos on my F450 wheels. It was very labor intensive to get those suckers on there, but we prevailed!
Congrats on that! Then you know how to do the bead seal with a ratcheting cargo strap too. Me? Well, Walmart's only 20 minutes away and they'll mount a tire for $5 for wusses like me.
Congrats on that! Then you know how to do the bead seal with a ratcheting cargo strap too. Me? Well, Walmart's only 20 minutes away and they'll mount a tire for $5 for wusses like me.
Haha I think the Walmart tech would tell you to pound sand if you brought some 40" tires in there and demanded the $5 tire change.
It's definitely worth it to take them up on that for normal tires though!
Vender is providing two quotes for powder coating. Vehicle drop off or running board drop off. How difficult is it to remove running boards.
Appreciate any response.
I think thru gwagonparts they will take a new set of runningboards and get them powercoated and shipped out to you. I did this on a W463 (not my current W463A) and like people described its not bad taking them on and off. They say they do them all the time (getting the rubber moldings out) so when they ship them to you its all put together and you just have to mount it! And then you can save your other ones or sell them! I think they also sell non-OEM replica ones as well.
Just as an FYI, on my W463A, I also went down the road of the vinyl strips that other board members have done. Takes patience to get it on correctly - but from a distance, you can't tell the difference between powercoated vs the vinyl!!!
I think thru gwagonparts they will take a new set of runningboards and get them powercoated and shipped out to you. I did this on a W463 (not my current W463A) and like people described its not bad taking them on and off. They say they do them all the time (getting the rubber moldings out) so when they ship them to you its all put together and you just have to mount it! And then you can save your other ones or sell them! I think they also sell non-OEM replica ones as well.
Just as an FYI, on my W463A, I also went down the road of the vinyl strips that other board members have done. Takes patience to get it on correctly - but from a distance, you can't tell the difference between powercoated vs the vinyl!!!
Actually this may be a great idea. It may actually make more sense to purchase a new set and have the factory powdercoat before installing the rubber and shipping to me.
I will post up a delivered cost of blacked out boards once I can get the numbers. I suspect the number will be just north of 1200-1400.
I was quoted $500 for a drop off of the boards and $1200. for a drop off of the vehicle. I would be willing to spend a couple hundred more for new factory powder coated boards and I will install. I would imagine I can get rid of the originals to recover some of the cost. May consider having the originals powdercoated and then sell.
So we will see......ordered a direct replacement new set which is black electroplated stainless steel. $1000. to my door air freight in 10 days or so.
Something isn't adding up here ...
Gwagenparts sells a set of MB OEM running boards for $4650. How can they add black powdercoat and sell for less? Do you send back the set you remove?
If being freighted from LeTech in Germany, shipping alone would cost $1K.
Gwagenparts and LeTech describe the running boards as stainless steel. IMO these components are more likely aluminum considering cost, weight and manufacturability.
Anxious to hear how this turns out - I'm ready to buy for $1,000 if legit.
Last edited by streborx; Oct 15, 2021 at 08:45 AM.
Dalien Eurocar which is a manufacturer for exotics in China.......... I hesitate in giving you contact info until it has arrived and I have been able view it in person. I'm happy to be that guy who takes a chance. I did have fairly extensive conversation with the factory regarding material and process and was satisfied with their answers sufficiently to place the order. It is stainless steel and they claim it is an exact copy of the original with the exception that it has been electroplated with a black process.
Something isn't adding up here ...
Gwagenparts sells a set of MB OEM running boards for $4650. How can they add black powdercoat and sell for less? Do you send back the set you remove?
Gwagenparts and LeTech describe the running boards as stainless steel. IMO these components are more likely aluminum considering cost, weight and manufacturability.
Anxious to hear how this turns out - I'm ready to buy for $1,000 if legit.
I hear you....the problem is that OEM and Gwagenparts base their pricing on the assumption that individuals can not get to their manufacturers in China. I suppose I have spent too much time in China dealing with manufacturers to understand that it is very much possible to get to the source. Lets wait and see what arrives. I will do a fairly decent job in assessing. I'm not interested in devaluing the vehicle by putting inferior components on it.
Interesting. I’m also ready to buy one set at 1k if the product is good. Mine is a 2020 g550. The only part that needs to be black after the steps is the badges.
It seems this eval will require some framework. I'm thinking:
1. Side by side visual
2. Weight comparison
3. Material comparison
4. Gauge thickness
5. Grade 304 vs 316 (should be able to get this from manufacturer)
It seems this eval will require some framework. I'm thinking:
1. Side by side visual
2. Weight comparison
3. Material comparison
4. Gauge thickness
5. Grade 304 vs 316 (should be able to get this from manufacturer)
What else do you need?
That's probably far more detail than most of us need, but would be great if you can provide all that info. Most of us would be fine with "it's not junk, it fits well, and it looks good".
That's probably far more detail than most of us need, but would be great if you can provide all that info. Most of us would be fine with "it's not junk, it fits well, and it looks good".
Perhaps..but fairly easy to accomplish. Just a scale and some calipers. Obviously too much time on my hands which allows me to obsess with my passions.
fwiw I think the difficulty described in this thread is a little overblown. I refinished my running boards in black.
1. remove 17mm attachment bolts, doing the center-most bolt last
2. remove 6 (3 on each end) phillips screws securing the endcaps to the board. remove end caps
3. remove 4? 5? socket head caps screws holding round bar to body.
4. remove (pull out gently) rubber trim for round bar
5. remove rubber trim (pull out gently) for flat pieces
6. clean everything thoroughly.
7. lightly sand metal bits with 180 grit for paint adhesion.
8. spray with primer.
I then did 3 coats of a bed liner product on top of that. has held up to 12k miles of abuse including a lot of off-reading.
installation is reverse of removal. I used a little soapy water to lube the rubber strips and had no problems pressing them back in with a screwdriver.
anyone that can wield a screwdriver and some spray paint should have no problem producing a good looking running board.
as an alternative, i’ll be selling mine soon and replacing them with rock sliders, if anyone would like to buy a pre-finished set.
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