LCD in Dash Display
 

Is there any fix or replacement for the LCD in the dash between the speedo and tach?


Mine just showed some bad pixles lighting up yellowish when they should be black.

If you could pull it open you might be able to get s part number or model number off the LCD and do a search.

Guessing that the whole dash display is one part.

BUMP!


The area of bad pixles is getting bigger?


Anyone else have this?
Anyone find a fix?

your best bet is to buy a spare / maybe broken cluster and r&r the lcd part.

it is not available as a separate item and whole cluster replacement is an involving task that requires codes, recoding and mileage adjustment that are best left to the dealer

Can a used cluster be recoded?
I know on some cars there is a cut off, as in a cluster can be recoded till it has 100 miles on it, then is locked.


Would you trust a MB Specialty shop to code the cluster. (I am near SpeedDriven)?


Other directions:
1) Seems clusters are between $150 and $400 on ebay.
Either replace whole or remove the LCD from a supposedly good working cluster.
2) Found a source for aftermarket replacement LCDs (from china) for about $60 each http://allway.en.gasgoo.com/auto-products/1818613.html
3) Found one repair offer on ebay ($450) but that seems high. (If there is one, there are probably others) http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-W16...-/331156395613
4) I just had my Audi A6 LCD done locally by a guy I found on ebay, might give him a call.


Does anyone know how difficult it is to remove the cluster?

I've got to believe that removing the cluster isn't that involved since routine bulb changes would need to happen, but maybe that is wishful thinking. Normally they pull out the front after removing a small number of fasteners.


I wouldn't have any issues letting an Indy shop do the coding; if they do enough Mercedes work they'll have the proper equipment, I know my local guy does.

the cluster comes out in 5 minutes and is easy to disassemble. there are two slots on the top and with the proper tool the tabs inside are pressed and the cluster slides out

i do not know if a used cluster can be recoded. i do know new clusters do need to be coded and require auth/code from the mothership. it also requires some paperwork on the backend

i do not know the capabilities of a tuner shop, but anything mileage readout- related should really be done at the dealer- airbag and cluster work are the only two areas that i think the dealer is the only common sense option.

Glad to hear the cluster comes out easily.
I knew it should, but remember this is an MB where the instructions for replacing the front marker light start with removal of the bumper.
(I was imagining WIS instructions that started with removal of the windshield)


I will do a bunch more research to see about recoding the cluster. If I can recode a used cluster the risk of screwing mine up might make the Chinese replacement LCD the best option.

Mine is going in for this exact issue this Friday, along with a driveline issue that sounds like a torque converter based on another member's post on this board (his vehicle is the same age and mileage as mine.........it's like there is a designated life expectancy for this stuff!)

I found a "new" (unused) cluster on ebay for $150 (about the same as the LCD itself seems to go for)
I am looking at taking it to SpeedDriven to get coded.


Yes, in LCD displays definitely have a fixed life expectancy. Vibration and hot/cold cycles come into effect. Hopefully my new one has not aged too much sitting and I can get another 5+ years out of it.


That is the problem with todays cars. No matter how well they are built, modern electronics, even "Solid State" electronics will fail due to age.
While mechanical systems can almost always be fixed, and even older electrical systems based on individual components, today's integrated circuits and software based systems become irreparable after 2 or 3 "generations" (revisions).

Same issue, photo attached
 

Thought the group would like to see the photo of this occurring. Strange thing is the first amber pixel "strings" seem to be going back to black (off). Wonder if I wait if they will all go black again?


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...23850c6f6e.jpg


Looks like the LCD turned into an Etch-a-sketch during an earthquake.

For anyone interested, I've got a "like new" cluster for sale as well - I'll attach the link. You can PM me if you want details. Cluster has around 900 miles.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/231465845973?...84.m1558.l2649

According to what I have found, the cluster MUST have less miles than the car (some say it must have zero (or near zero) and it MUST be programmed by a dealer.
I took the one I got to SpeedDriven and they could not.

Dropped the price on the spare unit - if anyone is looking for a replacement unit or for parts.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/231471802135...84.m1558.l2649

Temperature readout on 2003 S55
 

Can someone help here. This squiggle is getting worse as time goes on. Any one have an idea about this?

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...dd37fbd77d.jpg

I developed this issue recently as well. Has anyone had success replacing just the LCD panel?

Maybe the cold weather?
 

I saw some Porsche owners complaining about the same type of defect during cold days. It happened yesterday to me after starting my GL 320 that was in the cold garage stopped for 3 weeks.
The Porsche owner resolved the issue by letting the car outside in a sunny summer day with closed windows. I will try a hair dryer because warm days here in Quebec only in July!

Mine gets worse in cold weather and better in hot weather.
Right now the top couple of lines of pixels are about 1/2 bad.

I tried ordering new LCD screens from a company in Los Angeles, German Audio Tech - but they took my money and almost one year later have kept it, without sending me anything and giving me a garbage excuse, and then no refund. They have complaints against them out the yingyang... Checked with AliExpress shops which said on the site they had them - but after sending inquiries the shops that claimed they had them, did not in fact have them...So I appreciated all the advice in the posts in the R230 forum, and tried to replace the polarizing filters. Unfortunately, I scraped a bit too hard, trying to remove the film on the right screen and the angle of the filters proved incorrect. The simple solution??? Replace the screens with brand new ones - Minitools in Italy (back in business since spring 2021) supplied me 2 LCD screens which are apparently better engineered.The fit and function are perfect (even though they don't look identical to the original - hence improved?!) at a great price.They couriered them at reasonable cost and I installed them to great result. https://store.minitools.com/en/catal...t=0&q=mercedes
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...b8a8d7a91b.jpg