jimmyp

Glad I was close to home it came on so I drove for a bit got home ok. The next day drove up the street then I got the brake light warning and then it felt like the ABS/brakes were on as the truck would only go 5mph. Any one have this problem?

Plutoe

Yep you get that when there is a fault in the system---could be tons of things,most folks always think its a speed sensor or a brake light switch and start spending money for the wrong parts and then they are back whining----my brakes still don't work---why not!!

My point is find an indy who has factory or equal diagnostic software who can quickly define the fault---then you can fix the fault!!

jimmyp

I think I will try to unplug the ABS pump so the esp will not kick on, then take it to the shop if not it will have to be towed

2010GL550

I'll bet it is the wheel speed sensor. Our 2010 GL550 did the same thing...it would apply the brakes to the driver's side front wheel...on its own! The dealership replaced the sensor and no more problems for a couple of years.


Part number 164-440-56-41


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-GL3...RW~V7~&vxp=mtr

alx

What plutoe said.

First things first. Put the main display on odometer, turn key on position 2 without starting the engine and press the reset button on dash three times. Voltage will be displayed. If voltage is below 12.5 or thereabouts - your battery is bad and this will show as abs error (cannot initialize the power hungry abs module). With engine running you should see > 14v. If less- battery or charging is bad. See above.

jimmyp

battery is new but I will get my icarsoft 980 on Thursday to check my codes I hope its a abs sensor, it would be a easy fix I will post what I find.

jimmyp

checked codes had many old ones cleared each one, one by one. All ABS lights are off but front brakes still going on when trying to move re read codes none but the rear two speed sensors are not giving a signal so may change one to see what happens just find it odd both went bad at same time, deff recommend the icarsoft 980.

alx

Unlikely that both quit.

Two scenarios:

1. One was bad for a long time, but you didn't notice. Then recently The other one went bad and you noticed the odd behavior. Check brake pads- if one side is more worn out that the other- that was the "old" side. If both sides are worn out equally see below

2. Your abs block went bad. Rarely, but can happen. Check your fuses.

Icarsoft may be great for reading, but if you want to get to the bottom of it yourself you need star/ das and the diagnostics it offers

But... Check your battery. I know you said it is new, but the old battery failed for a reason. The x164 batteries have a long life (I have seen plenty 2007s with original battery) so a charging system issue might be the culprit.

jimmyp

Picked up one rear speed sensor to try today since the dealer only had one, put it in and now I get a reading on the i980 so great, now I have to drive it around to see how it acts. Got to run to another dealer saterday to get the other rear speed sensor and pop it in. I think you are right in one was bad then the other went out and put in limp mode.I will post when the other is put in

fkong777

happens twice this year. both time are related to rear ABS sensors. Changed both of them so far.

jimmyp

So got the other rear speed sensor put in today, I cleared the codes and everything is good to go. I did notice the trans when cold shifts better as it used to hold the gear longer. I put about 120miles on it today with no problems

2010GL550

Isn't it amazing that those things fail? We've had problems with our front ones. There's a non-OEM brand I just installed and have had no problems for several months. The brakes weren't being applied, just the ESP error light (and no more cruise control).


Glad you got it fixed and hopefully it wasn't very expensive.

jimmyp

Thanks got two rear about 150.00 each from dealer if I had time would of got aftermarket ones but had to get it going

Yup497

Reviving an old post.

2010 GL550 132k miles.

I'm getting an intermittent "ESP INOPERATIVE" light. NO ABS light and NO limp mode.

If I drive to a parking lot, put the GL in park, turn the steering wheel all the way to left, then all the way to the right and back to center, drive away and light disappears for a few days.

Has anyone experienced my exact behavior?

I've replaced one wheel speed sensor. When it went out, ESP and ABS light came on and the GL went into LIMP mode. This is different though.

Max Blast

They need to be replaced in pairs per axle with OEM parts, or the other sensor will rapidly burn itself out which is probably what you got going on.

expl0rer

Did you replace a rear sensor?

I had to replace a rear sensor recently. It was seized solid so I had to chisel it out. In the process, some sensor particles contaminated the tone ring which is integrated inside the rear wheel bearing. I was getting the dash errors consistently, but only over 30 km/h. The fault would not display at speeds under that.

To detail my experience, every time I would start the car, it would display message/illuminate the lights on the dash. Once I started driving slow, the lights/message would go away until I exceeded 30 km/h, and would stay illuminated until I turned the car off.

I had a code with the message to check tone ring, clean it and replace if necessary. I tried blowing compressed air through the sensor hole, but that did not help, so I ultimately had the wheel bearing replaced by an indy shop. (Side note: I supplied them with an NTN bearing which is OE supplier, in case you need to replace yours. NTN makes bearings sold under several brands, btw.)

If you have not scanned for codes, I would do that to see what you have in store.

I only replaced one side. I also replaced one front last year (approx 5000 km ago or roughly 3000 miles) and have not had to replace the other yet. I now have one new and one old sensor on both axles. In my experience, when the front sensor went (low battery condition just before that) the car would apply brakes hard at low speed, shortly after moving from full stop. When the rear went, the car did not do that at all. I would only see the lights and message on the dash.

Yup497

@expl0rer,

As always, thanks for the wealth of knowledge.

My last speed sensor was indeed a front sensor. I always use genuine mercedes parts only (it takes away the guess work on how long I think parts will last).

I hope that a wheel bearing is not the case, but of so, I have an indy that can take the GL too..

Like said, once the "ESP INOPERATIVE" light comes on (its always while driving and usually under strong acceleration), I'll pull to the nearest parking lot, shut the GL off, start it back up, turn the steering wheel all the left, all the way right, and back to center. As soon as I drive off, the light goes away.

My indy has a Snap On scanner, it was a pricey one and he's been able to scan mostly everything, im hoping he can scan and tell which speed sensor it is..

expl0rer

Based on what you're saying, I doubt that you have a sensor out. It seems likely that another component of the ABS/ESP is causing this. In my experience, when the sensors are out, the dash lights illuminate constantly. Admittedly, I did not try your reset procedure so I don’t know if that would have made a difference when mine were out.

Yup497

Since I've never gotten an ABS light, I was thinking possible steering angle sensor. I hope that's not it.

Yup497

My friend was able to hook up his Snap-On scanner and I received the following fault codes:

5173 | Steering wheel angle

7266 | ESP not available

Right rear wheel speed sensor faulty

9303 | M13 (Heating water circulation pump) Short circuit to ground

9607 | Booster blower: There is a short circuit to ground or the line for the read back voltage has an open circuit

Looks like I have some work to do.

N_Jay

this makes little sense.
Where did it come from?

hotbaws

I replaced my front and rear suspension airbags and got the ABS / ESP error and when I ran it through my icarsoft diagnositic reader it flagged the front left speed sensor which when my friend who helped me and I thought about it this was the first corner we did and stretched the cable removing the strut so I ordered a ABS senor from my local motor factors for £22 and installed it (which was a nightmare as I didn't know about the little C retaining clip and only when I'd removed the plastic wheel arch did I see it properly) then cleared the code and all good.

N_Jay

Did you only have one issue when you started?

I didn't undo the suspension.
Well, I did about a year and 1/2 ago.
And even if i somehow broke the wire when putting in the compressor, no one has connected speed sensor issues with a failure to run.

Max Blast

Experience

N_Jay

unless you have a lot of repetitrepetitions, soundd like the genesis of a myth.