Got a Laundry List from Dealer
01-29-2017, 12:50 PM
#1
Super Member
Thread Starter
Got a Laundry List from Dealer
Took in the GL350 2010 w 49k miles - for trans oil flush and they informed me I need these asap - 5k in estimate
1- Brake Fluid Flush is needed asap - $199
2- DSO: Engine Oil Cooler Seals Leaking - $2500 (No Oil on the garage floor though)
3- DSTS: Transfer case Input and Output seals leaking, Driveshaft bolts at front and rear, cross member bolts, transmission mount nuts - $1385
4- DSSU: Rear Driveshaft Flex Disc Cracked - $765
total $5623 out of door with taxes
P.S:
While driving I monitor coolant temp, adn it stays at 90 C pretty consistently ... I'm monitoring oil level didnt notice any decrease nor drops on the floor, I do see dampness on the back side of engine / tranny junction though
1- Brake Fluid Flush is needed asap - $199
2- DSO: Engine Oil Cooler Seals Leaking - $2500 (No Oil on the garage floor though)
3- DSTS: Transfer case Input and Output seals leaking, Driveshaft bolts at front and rear, cross member bolts, transmission mount nuts - $1385
4- DSSU: Rear Driveshaft Flex Disc Cracked - $765
total $5623 out of door with taxes
P.S:
While driving I monitor coolant temp, adn it stays at 90 C pretty consistently ... I'm monitoring oil level didnt notice any decrease nor drops on the floor, I do see dampness on the back side of engine / tranny junction though
Last edited by 007_e350; 01-29-2017 at 12:53 PM.
01-29-2017, 04:01 PM
#2
Member
If I were you, I will seek 2nd opinion from a MERC indy before letting them do 2-4. I once was suggested a potential leak repair for 3K by a dealer, the leak never materialized for another 4 years before I traded the SUV.
01-30-2017, 09:19 AM
#3
get #3 done asap or you will starve the case for oil and will need a new case.
get #1 done whenever. sooner rather than later.
get #2 done when the smell of burnt oil and oil burn rate and/ or spots on the floor start to bother you.
get #4 done when you start to experience vibrations at highway speeds.
get #1 done whenever. sooner rather than later.
get #2 done when the smell of burnt oil and oil burn rate and/ or spots on the floor start to bother you.
get #4 done when you start to experience vibrations at highway speeds.
Last edited by alx; 01-30-2017 at 09:40 AM.
01-30-2017, 12:14 PM
#4
Super Member
Thread Starter
get #3 done asap or you will starve the case for oil and will need a new case. ::: Can I do this myself ?
get #1 done whenever. sooner rather than later.
get #2 done when the smell of burnt oil and oil burn rate and/ or spots on the floor start to bother you.
get #4 done when you start to experience vibrations at highway speeds.
get #1 done whenever. sooner rather than later.
get #2 done when the smell of burnt oil and oil burn rate and/ or spots on the floor start to bother you.
get #4 done when you start to experience vibrations at highway speeds.
01-30-2017, 12:30 PM
#5
02-02-2017, 12:16 PM
#6
Senior Member
I would suggest this:
1- Brake Fluid Flush is needed asap - $199
Find a good indy shop and get them to do it. Probably half the price. It's only an hour of labor + a can of fluid. They can look at the other stuff while the truck is there too, possibly saving you a lot of money. My idea is to get you to a good indy and use this as a test, not to try to save you money on a brake fluid flush.
2- DSO: Engine Oil Cooler Seals Leaking - $2500 (No Oil on the garage floor though)
It will start to leak faster and faster. Mine took 1yr from identification of the leak till it got really bad. It was fine one day then really started to drip the next, and it was in the shop within a day or two later.
Found a guy in the Toronto area who does them for $1600CAD which is about 1200-1300 US (he's a Sprinter service shop and they have exactly the same engine). If you have an indy shop do this, they all say they can but find one who has done LOTS. It's tricky and you don't want to do it a second time! For example ask what colour the viton seals are that they'll be using.. they should know right away that the latest version is purple. If they have to look it up or think about it, they don't do these often!
3- DSTS: Transfer case Input and Output seals leaking, Driveshaft bolts at front and rear, cross member bolts, transmission mount nuts - $1385
Here's the thing with these cases.. they do burn out if you run them low, but the bigger failure area is a chain tensioner inside. When it breaks, you can't fix it and the transfer case is garbage. I bought a replacement for $800CAD (so 600 US). I wouldn't spend $1400 fixing seals on a unit that might blow up any how and can be replaced for half that price. I would have the level checked and keep maintaining it every so often. If it's a slow leak, just check it twice a year and don't run it low. Remember how often most ML/GL owners check this fluid (never!) and don't worry too much.. just make sure since you have a leak that you're checking it more often.
4- DSSU: Rear Driveshaft Flex Disc Cracked - $765
These can blow up and then your driveshaft is separated in two pieces. Not good when it happens at high speed as the flying driveshaft can hit parts under the car and damage them badly. I haven't seen an MB driveshaft flex disc in the last few years that cost much over $100 online for an OEM part.. so look online and give the part to your indy and have him install it. It's actually only a few bolts (and I think they come with the new one too, depending on model).
It will probably last you another year but you don't want to take the risk. I'd replace it in a month or maybe two at the most. They are like serpentine belts.. cracks mean they're failing, but you don't know when. Likely won't be tomorrow but I wouldn't chance it.
1- Brake Fluid Flush is needed asap - $199
Find a good indy shop and get them to do it. Probably half the price. It's only an hour of labor + a can of fluid. They can look at the other stuff while the truck is there too, possibly saving you a lot of money. My idea is to get you to a good indy and use this as a test, not to try to save you money on a brake fluid flush.
2- DSO: Engine Oil Cooler Seals Leaking - $2500 (No Oil on the garage floor though)
It will start to leak faster and faster. Mine took 1yr from identification of the leak till it got really bad. It was fine one day then really started to drip the next, and it was in the shop within a day or two later.
Found a guy in the Toronto area who does them for $1600CAD which is about 1200-1300 US (he's a Sprinter service shop and they have exactly the same engine). If you have an indy shop do this, they all say they can but find one who has done LOTS. It's tricky and you don't want to do it a second time! For example ask what colour the viton seals are that they'll be using.. they should know right away that the latest version is purple. If they have to look it up or think about it, they don't do these often!
3- DSTS: Transfer case Input and Output seals leaking, Driveshaft bolts at front and rear, cross member bolts, transmission mount nuts - $1385
Here's the thing with these cases.. they do burn out if you run them low, but the bigger failure area is a chain tensioner inside. When it breaks, you can't fix it and the transfer case is garbage. I bought a replacement for $800CAD (so 600 US). I wouldn't spend $1400 fixing seals on a unit that might blow up any how and can be replaced for half that price. I would have the level checked and keep maintaining it every so often. If it's a slow leak, just check it twice a year and don't run it low. Remember how often most ML/GL owners check this fluid (never!) and don't worry too much.. just make sure since you have a leak that you're checking it more often.
4- DSSU: Rear Driveshaft Flex Disc Cracked - $765
These can blow up and then your driveshaft is separated in two pieces. Not good when it happens at high speed as the flying driveshaft can hit parts under the car and damage them badly. I haven't seen an MB driveshaft flex disc in the last few years that cost much over $100 online for an OEM part.. so look online and give the part to your indy and have him install it. It's actually only a few bolts (and I think they come with the new one too, depending on model).
It will probably last you another year but you don't want to take the risk. I'd replace it in a month or maybe two at the most. They are like serpentine belts.. cracks mean they're failing, but you don't know when. Likely won't be tomorrow but I wouldn't chance it.
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007_e350 (02-02-2017)
02-02-2017, 04:14 PM
#7
Super Member
Thread Starter
I would suggest this:
1- Brake Fluid Flush is needed asap - $199
Find a good indy shop and get them to do it. Probably half the price. It's only an hour of labor + a can of fluid. They can look at the other stuff while the truck is there too, possibly saving you a lot of money. My idea is to get you to a good indy and use this as a test, not to try to save you money on a brake fluid flush.
2- DSO: Engine Oil Cooler Seals Leaking - $2500 (No Oil on the garage floor though)
It will start to leak faster and faster. Mine took 1yr from identification of the leak till it got really bad. It was fine one day then really started to drip the next, and it was in the shop within a day or two later.
Found a guy in the Toronto area who does them for $1600CAD which is about 1200-1300 US (he's a Sprinter service shop and they have exactly the same engine). If you have an indy shop do this, they all say they can but find one who has done LOTS. It's tricky and you don't want to do it a second time! For example ask what colour the viton seals are that they'll be using.. they should know right away that the latest version is purple. If they have to look it up or think about it, they don't do these often!
3- DSTS: Transfer case Input and Output seals leaking, Driveshaft bolts at front and rear, cross member bolts, transmission mount nuts - $1385
Here's the thing with these cases.. they do burn out if you run them low, but the bigger failure area is a chain tensioner inside. When it breaks, you can't fix it and the transfer case is garbage. I bought a replacement for $800CAD (so 600 US). I wouldn't spend $1400 fixing seals on a unit that might blow up any how and can be replaced for half that price. I would have the level checked and keep maintaining it every so often. If it's a slow leak, just check it twice a year and don't run it low. Remember how often most ML/GL owners check this fluid (never!) and don't worry too much.. just make sure since you have a leak that you're checking it more often.
4- DSSU: Rear Driveshaft Flex Disc Cracked - $765
These can blow up and then your driveshaft is separated in two pieces. Not good when it happens at high speed as the flying driveshaft can hit parts under the car and damage them badly. I haven't seen an MB driveshaft flex disc in the last few years that cost much over $100 online for an OEM part.. so look online and give the part to your indy and have him install it. It's actually only a few bolts (and I think they come with the new one too, depending on model).
It will probably last you another year but you don't want to take the risk. I'd replace it in a month or maybe two at the most. They are like serpentine belts.. cracks mean they're failing, but you don't know when. Likely won't be tomorrow but I wouldn't chance it.
1- Brake Fluid Flush is needed asap - $199
Find a good indy shop and get them to do it. Probably half the price. It's only an hour of labor + a can of fluid. They can look at the other stuff while the truck is there too, possibly saving you a lot of money. My idea is to get you to a good indy and use this as a test, not to try to save you money on a brake fluid flush.
2- DSO: Engine Oil Cooler Seals Leaking - $2500 (No Oil on the garage floor though)
It will start to leak faster and faster. Mine took 1yr from identification of the leak till it got really bad. It was fine one day then really started to drip the next, and it was in the shop within a day or two later.
Found a guy in the Toronto area who does them for $1600CAD which is about 1200-1300 US (he's a Sprinter service shop and they have exactly the same engine). If you have an indy shop do this, they all say they can but find one who has done LOTS. It's tricky and you don't want to do it a second time! For example ask what colour the viton seals are that they'll be using.. they should know right away that the latest version is purple. If they have to look it up or think about it, they don't do these often!
3- DSTS: Transfer case Input and Output seals leaking, Driveshaft bolts at front and rear, cross member bolts, transmission mount nuts - $1385
Here's the thing with these cases.. they do burn out if you run them low, but the bigger failure area is a chain tensioner inside. When it breaks, you can't fix it and the transfer case is garbage. I bought a replacement for $800CAD (so 600 US). I wouldn't spend $1400 fixing seals on a unit that might blow up any how and can be replaced for half that price. I would have the level checked and keep maintaining it every so often. If it's a slow leak, just check it twice a year and don't run it low. Remember how often most ML/GL owners check this fluid (never!) and don't worry too much.. just make sure since you have a leak that you're checking it more often.
4- DSSU: Rear Driveshaft Flex Disc Cracked - $765
These can blow up and then your driveshaft is separated in two pieces. Not good when it happens at high speed as the flying driveshaft can hit parts under the car and damage them badly. I haven't seen an MB driveshaft flex disc in the last few years that cost much over $100 online for an OEM part.. so look online and give the part to your indy and have him install it. It's actually only a few bolts (and I think they come with the new one too, depending on model).
It will probably last you another year but you don't want to take the risk. I'd replace it in a month or maybe two at the most. They are like serpentine belts.. cracks mean they're failing, but you don't know when. Likely won't be tomorrow but I wouldn't chance it.
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02-02-2017, 04:21 PM
#8
Senior Member
http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/1644100015MY
$111 includes free shipping.
It's six bolts (looks like 3 are 'screws' that screw in, and the other 3 are 'nut+bolt' type)
I'd raise your truck with Airmatic all the way (using the 'raise' button). Then crawl under and see how accessible the flex disc is.
I have changed quite a few sensors by doing this.. no need to jack up the truck. Makes it way easier!
If you think you can get in there with a socket and wrench easily, just do it yourself. Won't take more than 1/2 hour.
Just make sure when you unbolt the driveshaft, you hold onto it tightly so it doesn't fall and injure you. They're not really heavy, but they ARE a heavy metal pipe and will hurt you if you forget to hold it up with one hand.
02-02-2017, 04:45 PM
#9
Super Member
Thread Starter
Looked it up for my 2007 (probably same part for yours, depending on year):
http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/1644100015MY
$111 includes free shipping.
It's six bolts (looks like 3 are 'screws' that screw in, and the other 3 are 'nut+bolt' type)
I'd raise your truck with Airmatic all the way (using the 'raise' button). Then crawl under and see how accessible the flex disc is.
I have changed quite a few sensors by doing this.. no need to jack up the truck. Makes it way easier!
If you think you can get in there with a socket and wrench easily, just do it yourself. Won't take more than 1/2 hour.
Just make sure when you unbolt the driveshaft, you hold onto it tightly so it doesn't fall and injure you. They're not really heavy, but they ARE a heavy metal pipe and will hurt you if you forget to hold it up with one hand.
http://www.autohausaz.com/pn/1644100015MY
$111 includes free shipping.
It's six bolts (looks like 3 are 'screws' that screw in, and the other 3 are 'nut+bolt' type)
I'd raise your truck with Airmatic all the way (using the 'raise' button). Then crawl under and see how accessible the flex disc is.
I have changed quite a few sensors by doing this.. no need to jack up the truck. Makes it way easier!
If you think you can get in there with a socket and wrench easily, just do it yourself. Won't take more than 1/2 hour.
Just make sure when you unbolt the driveshaft, you hold onto it tightly so it doesn't fall and injure you. They're not really heavy, but they ARE a heavy metal pipe and will hurt you if you forget to hold it up with one hand.
okay - The Raise option keeps the car up as long as I want ? I thought our car starts to lower after few mins of driving (not sure if thats speed triggered) - I dont wanna be squished under the 7k pounder
Also - say the rubber disc completely ruptures - would it cause the shaft to come lose ? Is the shaft connected past the rubber disc ?
Last edited by 007_e350; 02-02-2017 at 05:02 PM.
02-02-2017, 04:47 PM
#10
Senior Member
Yes, if you raise it, it will stay there.
There is a speed trigger to lower at highway speeds. I think it lowers somewhere around 60mph or so. You can raise it and leave it up for a week if all you do is drive around the city.
I guess you could pop a jack stand under each rocker panel if you were really worried.
It also doesn't really lower that much. The lowest position is the height your truck is at right now. It wouldn't "squish" you by going flat down on the ground or anything. It will lower a few inches but nothing major.
There is a speed trigger to lower at highway speeds. I think it lowers somewhere around 60mph or so. You can raise it and leave it up for a week if all you do is drive around the city.
I guess you could pop a jack stand under each rocker panel if you were really worried.
It also doesn't really lower that much. The lowest position is the height your truck is at right now. It wouldn't "squish" you by going flat down on the ground or anything. It will lower a few inches but nothing major.
