Kyle Vega

BlueTec Engine Oil Consumption & DPF Soot Accumulation


Hello everyone first time posting to MB World but have read post after post. I am looking for some help now cause I don't know what else to do.


I have a 2009 GL 320 that I bought in Jan. It has 162,000 miles and overall seems to be in very good shape. Until I started noticing it consuming around 2 Qts of oil every 500-600 miles. Around that same time I got a DPF soot accumulation light. I started looking into cause that oil might be contaminating the DPF. I have drove it for long trips on the highway trying to get a good regen, with the check engine lights on and cleared no difference.


I have done a full service b recently with all new filters and I noticed a little oil in the intake to the turbo. I noticed that it seemed like it was coming from the crankcase vent valve so I replaced it. After a week it has the same amount of oil in the intake with no change in consumption or DPF light. I also switched to 15w40 oil to help with the dilution and thinning.

Kyle Vega

Sorry accidently submitted before I was ready.


BlueTec Engine Oil Consumption & DPF Soot Accumulation


Hello everyone first time posting to MB World but have read post after post. I am looking for some help now cause I don't know what else to do.


I have a 2009 GL 320 that I bought in Jan. It has 162,000 miles and overall seems to be in very good shape. Until I started noticing it consuming around 2 Qts of oil every 500-600 miles. Around that same time I got a DPF soot accumulation light. I started looking into cause that oil might be contaminating the DPF. I have drove it for long trips on the highway trying to get a good regen, with the check engine lights on and cleared no difference.


I have done a full service b recently with all new filters and I noticed a little oil in the intake to the turbo. I noticed that it seemed like it was coming from the crankcase vent valve so I replaced it. After a week it has the same amount of oil in the intake with no change in consumption or DPF light. I also switched to 15w40 oil to help with the dilution and thinning.


I have don't the test with the oil fill cap to see if I am getting excessive crank case pressure but it seems to be fine with pressure.


I am considering that the rings still maybe causing a majority of the consumption. any ideas you could throw at me would be greatly appreciated.


I know that I may have gotten taken by the used car salesman but overall I still really like the car. I can not afford to take it to the dealership. I have rebuilt many engines and turbo's but the diesel is new to me and it giving me a run for my money.

alx

2 quarts in 600 miles is a lot. At 160k miles the om642 engine is just broken in and should use about 1-2 quarts over 10k miles. Somebody skipped on maintainance on your truck.

I would check turbo seals and if good do a compression check on a few cylinders. It might be valve guides. Find a diesel place to do it for you as it is a bit tricky especially if you have no experience removing glow plugs. Piston rings are practically not a wear item on this engine so even if abused I find it hard to believe they are bad

larrypmyers

You may want to consider haveing the dpf removed and cleaned.

007_e350

Hey Op, see if turbo is seeping oil, here's a quick video

alx

That is one (messy) way of finding if turbo seals are shot. Alternatively you can grab the impeller shaft and check for play. There should be none.

rosenhauer

Did you get this resolved? I have the same level of oil consumption.

What I've already looked at/tried:
1. Replaced the CCV Pressure regulator - no change - and I disassembled the old one and the diaphragm wasn't torn so it was probably good
2. New air filters - No change
3. Pulled the Turbo Exhaust Pipe - On inspection it was dry and no buildup. So Exhaust side of turbo doesn't seem to be leaking.

I hadn't thought about running it with the intake off to look for intake side leak. I'm guessing it will throw codes when the MAF sensors and filter pressure sensor read 0 and the engine is running but I can clear those. But in the video It's not clear if the oil is coming from the turbo or if it's coming from the CCV pipe (the orange pipe end to the left).

abemiami

People start these post and they resolve the issues but don't post the solutions or end results.

rosenhauer

I never resolved it. Traded in the truck last fall.

tlh711

Good Morning, I am new to this Forum and also not mechanically inclined at all, I have driven Mercedes for appx 30 years. Currently I have a 2010 ML 350 Bluetec with 160k and

have been dealing with the oil consumption of 1-2 quarts every 500-600 miles also, Check engine light has been on and Dealer is telling me the DPF filter needs to be changed to the tune of $5200.00

Considering that the vehicle is not worth much more in value I find myself in a jam.......I love the truck and have had little issues any suggestions? solutions? it is worth fixing?

I have been searching for aftermarket or used parts to take the sting out but have had no luck Would appreciate some advice

alx

if you are not mechanically inclined things are a bit tougher. you need to confirm your source of oil leak (most likely your turbo) and address it (rebuild turbo if it is the turbo). then you need to address the dpf side of things. you can either have it unclogged or replace with a used one, or replace with an aftermarket one or replace with new oem one.... i am not even going to suggest removing it altogether as this is an advanced scenario.

tlh711

Thank you any tips on where to purchase used or Aftermarket DPF?

lkchris

Well, you MUST use low ash motor oil meeting MB spec 229.51 (now 229.52). Don’t even add oil between changes that doesn’t meet the spec.

DPF filters are not lifetime components and require replacement at some point. Your 162k miles is great mileage.

larrypmyers

Each time the dpf is mechanically cleaned it generally loses from 3 to 5% efficiency.

tlh711

Quick update. Had my local independent Mercedes shop check the Turbo and it was dry and running fine. Still have oil consumption,

‘’next week we are going to try a forced regeneration of the DPF ....... I’ll keep updating as I progress

ccrobin

I will be curious as to what you find. I am having similar issues. Do you have any engine codes or DPF regen failures?

tlh711

Ok here is the final solution, The vehicle started to lose torque and was playing in and out of limp mode, My local Mercedes mechanic took it to try to do a forced regeneration and while driving the DPF got so clogged the vehicle would not run.

I had the DPF replaced and the NOX sensors, Oxogen Sensors, Temp Sensors, and pressure lines Parts and labor ran me 6500.00 ( Ouch) but the truck runs fantastic now with 162k on it Hope it was the correct decision repairing it Hoping to get 250k out of it


Any thoughts? As I trust your opinions and value them

tlh711

yes i had regen codes........ sorry I'm not to technically savvy

Mitch OM642

Did replacing all these parts correct your high oil consumption?

tlh711

It did not. I found out it was a compression issue. I was at the end of my rope. Traded it in. Bought a 2015 ml 350

TGcville

Had you replaced the turbo or no? Did you have a compression test done?

MLF

New to the forum but have been following this issue for a while. I also have been experiencing extremely high all consumption over the past several months on my 2011 GL350. I have a couple questions related to the DPF. Is it possible that a dirty/clogged DPF can in and of itself cause high oil consumption? Also, I have been told that a DPF can become damaged internally and if this happens can not be cleaned, it would have to be replaced. If this is true how does one determine damage?

ccrobin

A clogged DPF can cause oil consumption by creating excessive pressure which damages the seals in your turbo. Oil that cools the turbo then leaks out into your intake, which in turn clogs your DPF more, which creates even more pressure, which causes your turbo to leak more....

It's a vicious circle. You also need to unclog the DPF before repairing the turbo, otherwise the high pressures will just blow the turbo seals again.

Blowby (which is also very common in these engines) is another likely culprit of oil consumption. Search blowby and turbo cartridge replacement on the forum and you can learn more.

There are various chemical cleaners that claim to help your DPF if clogged. None worked for me for more than a week. If you want to try and have it cleaned, plan to remove it from the vehicle and send it away to a pro. It will likely cost you upwards of $400-500 plus shipping both ways. If they can successfully clean it, it should be about 90% as good as a new DPF (though if you still have oil consumption plan for it to clog again very soon). If your oil consumption is due to blowby, there is not much you can do to prevent it. In most instances with a 100,000 plus mile engine in one of these, you will fight the DPF until you finally remove it, sell the vehicle, or completely rebuild the engine.

I spent hundreds if not thousands trying to limp along. I ended up doing the DPF delete. In all it cost me about a thousand bucks to do it. $700 for the delete pipes, $200 for ECU programmer, and $100 for a new turbo cartridge. About 5 hours to hack out the DPF and install the pipes. About 6 hours to change the turbo cartridge. About 2 weeks of reading to learn how to program the ECU. If you are not a do it yourselfer, plan to spend about twice that amount in labor and programming costs. If you are even somewhat handy you should be able to keep the cost around $1K.

If my experience is any help, don't get your hopes up on a cheaper or easier fix. You will end up like me spending tons of money $50-$100 at a time with no results. I did limp mine along for 6 months, but I wish I had spent the $1000 right away.

I am getting 15-20% better gas mileage, more power, and no more frustrations with DPF related problems. There is a bit of smoke now when I accelerate hard, and a diesel odor (only noticeable if I stand outside the car while it idles), but these issies are acceptable to me.

If you want to keep it emissions compliant, you will need to replace the DPF at a cost of about $2500-$3000 just for the filter itself. You will also need MB Star tools to adapt the new filter (or pay a mechanic to do it). You could buy a used DPF for less, but unless it comes from an extremely low mile engine expect it not to last long (especially with your oil consumption).

PM me of you want specific info or help with the DPF delete route. I can probably save you some time and money.

It sucks, but many have done the delete and are very happy with it. I am, and if I can get another 100,000 miles out of my truck it will be well worth it. It is still a beautiful Mercedes that I love to drive.

MLF

Thanks for your reply. Not trying to be difficult but what causes a DPF to clog to begin with? Something has to start that cycle you refer to. The vehicle starts out brand new with everything functioning properly with clean DPF. What causes it to clog over time? I’m trying to go somewhere with my questions. Is it initially the high oil consumption that causes the clogging of the filter or is it the clogging of the filter that causes the high consumption? I guess another way to ask my question is could installing a new filter by itself eliminate the high consumption?

ccrobin

The filter collects soot particles' and when it gets full it performs a regeberation, which attampts to convert all the soot to ash. It never converts 100% so it slowly gets less efficient with time. Oil, sludge, and other stuff passing through the exhaust also clog it. On a passenger vehicle like this, the useful life of the filter is rated for 100,000 miles. The clogged DPF triggers some causes of oil leakage at the turbo. When this happens, replacing the filter AND repairing the turbo seals may work - but by 100,000 miles you are likely experiencing some (if not substantial) blowby. It just happens. That oil loss to blowby will clog a new DPF fairly quickly as the oil will not convert in a regeneration.

In short, replacing the DPF is almost guarenteed not to cure your oil consumption. You can spend the thousands to try, but if it doesnt work, your spending that much more to do the delete.

Trust me, I'd prefer to have left my truck stock, but the DPF filter is not the emmissions savior it is said to be, and the cost to maintain it on a higher mile engine is just not feasible. On semi trucks, the DPF systems are much larger and designed to be servicable. Not so on our passenger vehicles.

I am sure others can chime in, and you should seek other opinions. It's going to be a big expense for you one way or another.