Another air Matic issue
12-02-2017, 10:42 PM
#1
Another air Matic issue
I have a 2012 Mercedes-Benz GL450. I have replace front and rear strut assembly, compressor, valve block, verified fuse and relay, checked for leaks, all components hold air and drop when disconnected from valve block. As of now I start the vehicle and hear the compressor runs until it shuts down for cooling. However it’s as if the valve block never allows air to pass to any of the struts to raise. What is going on? It is completely bottomed out.
12-03-2017, 12:18 AM
#2
I have a 2012 Mercedes-Benz GL450. I have replace front and rear strut assembly, compressor, valve block, verified fuse and relay, checked for leaks, all components hold air and drop when disconnected from valve block. As of now I start the vehicle and hear the compressor runs until it shuts down for cooling. However it’s as if the valve block never allows air to pass to any of the struts to raise. What is going on? It is completely bottomed out.
Check headlight adjusters and relay...if not star/das will figure this out quick
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Bluecollar (12-04-2017)
12-03-2017, 09:59 AM
#3
12-03-2017, 03:00 PM
#4
Well those adjusters are connected to the airmatic module which in turn is abke to adjust the height and level of the car. If they are bent or stuck in position the system might think its level etc. The airmatic system is integrated into many of the cars systems. And as far as the relay they tend to be bad.
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Bluecollar (12-04-2017)
12-03-2017, 03:26 PM
#5
Well those adjusters are connected to the airmatic module which in turn is abke to adjust the height and level of the car. If they are bent or stuck in position the system might think its level etc. The airmatic system is integrated into many of the cars systems. And as far as the relay they tend to be bad.
Thanks for the info, I was unaware of the correlation.
12-04-2017, 12:13 AM
#7
Ok…after extensive troubleshooting, I’ve figured out what the issue is. I wondered what the range was on the feedback pots aka (level sensors) and wondered if they were “out of range” then the computer would know what to do. Which was the case. So I hot wired the valve block to open each solenoid to put air into each of the four corners until I had a good voltage feedback to the computer. Started the vehicle and she acted completely normal as if she rolled off the assembly line. Of course if I had a SD this would have been as easy as you’ve said. But for a poor electronics tech this will do. Obviously hindsight jacking the vehicle up to proper ride height like I’ve seen posted so many times would have achieved the same result. However I have learned so much about this vehicle and reverse engineered the valve block to share with others for troubleshooting in the future. Thanks for y’alls help. This is a great forum because of the great people.
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hamada128 (01-15-2018)
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12-04-2017, 12:15 AM
#8
Ok…after extensive troubleshooting, I’ve figured out what the issue is. I wondered what the range was on the feedback pots aka (level sensors) and wondered if they were “out of range” then the computer would know what to do. Which was the case. So I hot wired the valve block to open each solenoid to put air into each of the four corners until I had a good voltage feedback to the computer. Started the vehicle and she acted completely normal as if she rolled off the assembly line. Of course if I had a SD this would have been as easy as you’ve said. But for a poor electronics tech this will do. Obviously hindsight jacking the vehicle up to proper ride height like I’ve seen posted so many times would have achieved the same result. However I have learned so much about this vehicle and reverse engineered the valve block to share with others for troubleshooting in the future. Thanks for y’alls help. This is a great forum because of the great people.
They have to be within 20mm of each other for the system to consider it within range
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Bluecollar (12-04-2017)
01-15-2018, 09:31 AM
#9
Junior Member
Ok…after extensive troubleshooting, I’ve figured out what the issue is. I wondered what the range was on the feedback pots aka (level sensors) and wondered if they were “out of range” then the computer would know what to do. Which was the case. So I hot wired the valve block to open each solenoid to put air into each of the four corners until I had a good voltage feedback to the computer. Started the vehicle and she acted completely normal as if she rolled off the assembly line. Of course if I had a SD this would have been as easy as you’ve said. But for a poor electronics tech this will do. Obviously hindsight jacking the vehicle up to proper ride height like I’ve seen posted so many times would have achieved the same result. However I have learned so much about this vehicle and reverse engineered the valve block to share with others for troubleshooting in the future. Thanks for y’alls help. This is a great forum because of the great people.
Is it my valve block?
01-23-2018, 10:43 PM
#11
Got the pin outs
As you can see on the pics I have reversed engineered the solenoid pack. This unit runs on 12VDC and of course is polarity sensitive. Your 5&6 pin are your common or negative. Apply 12VDC positive to any of the others and you open that solenoid to allow air to pass. I am not sure but figure that pin 8,9,&10 have something to do with a pressure switch etc. but is irrelevant for just activating one of your solenoids.
Hope this helps. Yes we know that if we had the highly expensive software and connections this could be easily done at the click of a button but for us poor people this worked fine for me.
