GL 550 x164 non-start question
04-22-2018, 11:39 AM
#1
GL 550 x164 non-start question
Hey Guys- x164 decided not to start yesterday afternoon.
Objective-
1) when following normal start procedures there was 1 click then nothing for (2) tries. After that the click was gone, and just acted like there was no signal to the starter solenoid.
2) while depressing the brake pedal, I had zero brake lights
3) not believing it was the battery but hoping it was- I removed the battery (OEM from dealer maybe 2 years old) and put in a new one. As suspected no change.
4) I can switch gear position from stalk with the pedal down
My thoughts went to the brake pedal switch due to lack of brake lights when pedal is depressed, however I’m uncertain that could be it as I can switch gears with the stalk. I’m now questioning whether or not under normal conditions the brake lights come on before the truck is started. It would make sense that it should but since mine doesn’t yet I can change gears.......?
Another thought went to the starter due to the initial single click then nothing after.
Any thoughts or or similar experiences?
Objective-
1) when following normal start procedures there was 1 click then nothing for (2) tries. After that the click was gone, and just acted like there was no signal to the starter solenoid.
2) while depressing the brake pedal, I had zero brake lights
3) not believing it was the battery but hoping it was- I removed the battery (OEM from dealer maybe 2 years old) and put in a new one. As suspected no change.
4) I can switch gear position from stalk with the pedal down
My thoughts went to the brake pedal switch due to lack of brake lights when pedal is depressed, however I’m uncertain that could be it as I can switch gears with the stalk. I’m now questioning whether or not under normal conditions the brake lights come on before the truck is started. It would make sense that it should but since mine doesn’t yet I can change gears.......?
Another thought went to the starter due to the initial single click then nothing after.
Any thoughts or or similar experiences?
04-22-2018, 09:47 PM
#2
Member
You can test the starter just removing the first green relay (the one near the right fender) of the engine fuse box, turn the car key to position 2 and then and make a jump with a wire from terminal 30 to 87 were the relay was. If your starter does not crank he is the culprit but, if it cranks and the car don't start, well, now you have to use a scanner, best if you can use a Star Diagnosis to get the fault codes.
I have a problem like this in my GL500, firstly was the ECU that was burned by a bad voltage regulator, when I replaced the ECU I had a bad ISM (Intelligent Servo Module), that was replaced and programed but now, the ECU is not enabled to release the engine start. I must release it with Star Diagnosis but, unfortunately my windows freezes when I try to do this, so I am looking for someone with a good scanner to program it.
I hope I could help.
Cheers,
Sergio
I have a problem like this in my GL500, firstly was the ECU that was burned by a bad voltage regulator, when I replaced the ECU I had a bad ISM (Intelligent Servo Module), that was replaced and programed but now, the ECU is not enabled to release the engine start. I must release it with Star Diagnosis but, unfortunately my windows freezes when I try to do this, so I am looking for someone with a good scanner to program it.
I hope I could help.
Cheers,
Sergio
The following users liked this post:
Avdoc (04-24-2018)
04-22-2018, 10:09 PM
#3
Thank you!
I will follow your steps tomorrow when I get back in town to test the starter. It started the “ slow start” while warmed up. I had planned on taking it to my mechanic this week anyway for that. The last 2 days the initial start button press led to a crank then it stopped. The second press would then start like normal. I assumed this issue was with the starter cable from the battery that I have read about. Then this happened where it wouldn’t even turn over.
What I cannot remember for the life of me is if the brake lights come on when you push the brake pedal to start it? If it should, then may brake switch may be the culprit for this issue. But I’m not sure. This car has been fantastic thus far! I’ve owned many vehicles, and some that are amazing but I prefer driving this 550 over any of them.
I will follow your steps tomorrow when I get back in town to test the starter. It started the “ slow start” while warmed up. I had planned on taking it to my mechanic this week anyway for that. The last 2 days the initial start button press led to a crank then it stopped. The second press would then start like normal. I assumed this issue was with the starter cable from the battery that I have read about. Then this happened where it wouldn’t even turn over.
What I cannot remember for the life of me is if the brake lights come on when you push the brake pedal to start it? If it should, then may brake switch may be the culprit for this issue. But I’m not sure. This car has been fantastic thus far! I’ve owned many vehicles, and some that are amazing but I prefer driving this 550 over any of them.
04-24-2018, 09:35 AM
#4
Member
In this case, by your description seems to be the starter that is bad, if possible, prefer to replace it than repair as it is a pain to remove it from the car, and a new part has the guarantee that it is going to last as the one that came on your car.
About the brake lights, in my GL500 the only turn on when the key is in position 1 or 2.
About the brake lights, in my GL500 the only turn on when the key is in position 1 or 2.
04-25-2018, 12:16 AM
#7
In this case, by your description seems to be the starter that is bad, if possible, prefer to replace it than repair as it is a pain to remove it from the car, and a new part has the guarantee that it is going to last as the one that came on your car.
About the brake lights, in my GL500 the only turn on when the key is in position 1 or 2.
About the brake lights, in my GL500 the only turn on when the key is in position 1 or 2.
Trending Topics
09-04-2018, 07:44 AM
#9
You can test the starter just removing the first green relay (the one near the right fender) of the engine fuse box, turn the car key to position 2 and then and make a jump with a wire from terminal 30 to 87 were the relay was. If your starter does not crank he is the culprit but, if it cranks and the car don't start, well, now you have to use a scanner, best if you can use a Star Diagnosis to get the fault codes.
I have a problem like this in my GL500, firstly was the ECU that was burned by a bad voltage regulator, when I replaced the ECU I had a bad ISM (Intelligent Servo Module), that was replaced and programed but now, the ECU is not enabled to release the engine start. I must release it with Star Diagnosis but, unfortunately my windows freezes when I try to do this, so I am looking for someone with a good scanner to program it.
I hope I could help.
Cheers,
Sergio
I have a problem like this in my GL500, firstly was the ECU that was burned by a bad voltage regulator, when I replaced the ECU I had a bad ISM (Intelligent Servo Module), that was replaced and programed but now, the ECU is not enabled to release the engine start. I must release it with Star Diagnosis but, unfortunately my windows freezes when I try to do this, so I am looking for someone with a good scanner to program it.
I hope I could help.
Cheers,
Sergio
Hello Sergio,
I was wondering when you replace the ECU, did you have to get the car reprogrammed by the dealer?
Thanks
09-04-2018, 09:10 AM
#10
Member
Well, when the ECU is replaced there are three options:
You can remove the processors (chips) of the old ECU using a soldering station and transfer then to the new one, this is what was done in my ECU. As this is a high risk operation, I took to a guy that could do this as it requires patience and perfect vision.
The second method is taking to someone who can reprogram the ECU with the EZS/EIS module because they work together, or you can take the car to Mercedes dealer to make this, the last one generally is the most expensive, it is a low risk operation.
Best regards,
Sergio
You can remove the processors (chips) of the old ECU using a soldering station and transfer then to the new one, this is what was done in my ECU. As this is a high risk operation, I took to a guy that could do this as it requires patience and perfect vision.
The second method is taking to someone who can reprogram the ECU with the EZS/EIS module because they work together, or you can take the car to Mercedes dealer to make this, the last one generally is the most expensive, it is a low risk operation.
Best regards,
Sergio
The following users liked this post:
bhuter24 (09-04-2018)
09-04-2018, 10:50 AM
#11
Well, when the ECU is replaced there are three options:
You can remove the processors (chips) of the old ECU using a soldering station and transfer then to the new one, this is what was done in my ECU. As this is a high risk operation, I took to a guy that could do this as it requires patience and perfect vision.
The second method is taking to someone who can reprogram the ECU with the EZS/EIS module because they work together, or you can take the car to Mercedes dealer to make this, the last one generally is the most expensive, it is a low risk operation.
Best regards,
Sergio
You can remove the processors (chips) of the old ECU using a soldering station and transfer then to the new one, this is what was done in my ECU. As this is a high risk operation, I took to a guy that could do this as it requires patience and perfect vision.
The second method is taking to someone who can reprogram the ECU with the EZS/EIS module because they work together, or you can take the car to Mercedes dealer to make this, the last one generally is the most expensive, it is a low risk operation.
Best regards,
Sergio
Thanks for the reply,
couple more questions:
How did you diagnose that it was ECU (was it just visual indication or with DOS)?
Can I use a used one?
I am having problems with my GL450,
(I purchased a 2008 GL450 with 154K miles, I have a check engine light on. I took it to the dealership and they told me that the following: Various faults in
ME-faults for right catalytic converter efficiency
Secondary air pump (performed actuation of secondary air pump, turns on but is very loud and has no output)
Outside temperature sensor
Random misfire on all 8 cylinders.
I have replaced the catalytic converter
I have replaced outside temperature (but it still shows +185 degree on the dash)
replaced all 8 spark plugs
replaced secondary pump with a used one (swapped with my 2007)
It was also giving me no start problem while it was hot. So I replaced the crank Position sensor.
Current condition:
It is still giving me chick engine light, random misfire on all eight cylinders. Yesterday when I tried to start it started smoking like (mother brother very thick white/blueish smoke) I turned it off and cleared the codes with OBDII (scanner from Autozone) then check engine light went off no smoke and no misfire. Drove for about 3-4 minutes and again check engine light came on (it also flashed for like maybe minute or 2 then solid) it started misfiring again. scanned with OBDII scanner and the following codes are back:
P0072 Ambient Air Temperature
P0300 Random Misfire Detected
P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire
P0271 Cylinder 4 injector Circuit High
P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
P0410 Secondary Air Injection System
P0446 Evaporative Emission System Vent Control Circuit
Any idea what could be the problem? I do have 2007 GL450 where I can swap the parts and see if that takes care the problem.)
Last edited by bhuter24; 09-04-2018 at 11:18 AM. Reason: adding a question
09-04-2018, 11:19 AM
#12
Member
In this case you have to use the first option of transferring the processors.
Mercedes dealers do not work with used ECUs, but some guy that have the proper equipment can make ECU reprograming, they only need the ECUs, the EZS/EIS module and the keys.
A last issue, the ECU must match the same numbers of the second line under the Mercedes identification.
i.e: the first line has the number: A 273 153 52 79
the second line must have the same numbers: xxx ME9.7 8Zyl (Does not matter the letters and numbers I represented with xxx)
And also, at the line under the name BOSCH the first 7 numbers must be the same.
i.e:
BOSCH
0 261 209
Mercedes dealers do not work with used ECUs, but some guy that have the proper equipment can make ECU reprograming, they only need the ECUs, the EZS/EIS module and the keys.
A last issue, the ECU must match the same numbers of the second line under the Mercedes identification.
i.e: the first line has the number: A 273 153 52 79
the second line must have the same numbers: xxx ME9.7 8Zyl (Does not matter the letters and numbers I represented with xxx)
And also, at the line under the name BOSCH the first 7 numbers must be the same.
i.e:
BOSCH
0 261 209
