Front End Repairs - Need Help with Instructions, Torque Specs
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 394
Likes: 155
2013 E63 P30, 2010 GL550
Front End Repairs - Need Help with Instructions, Torque Specs
My X164 developed a number of front-end noises, and I decided to repair DIY. I am looking for procedures, how-to instructions, links, advice with the following:
- Bushings - Front Lower Control Arm (p/n 1643330314, 1643330414, 227532104)
- Ball Joint - Front Lower Control Arm (p/n 1643300935)
- Steering Outer and Inner Tie Rods (p/n 1643301103, 1644600005)
I plan to rent the press cups for bushings from a local auto store. I think that I have other tools for the job. Thanks for helping.
UPDATE 1:
I am missing torque specs for inner tie rod to steering rack.
UPDATE 2:
The following are confirmed torque specs from ALLDATAdiy.com posted at another forum:
- Front axle stabilizer bar:
Nut, link rod to front shock
200 Nm
Bolts, bracket to engine subframe
50 Nm - Air suspension: pressure line to front air suspension
5 Nm - Front axle shock absorber:
Top Nut for shock absorber on front end (3 strut mounting nuts)
stage 1: 30 Nm
stage 2: loosen 180 degrees
stage 3: 27 Nm
Self-locking nut for shock absorber on wishbone
265 Nm - Wheel location, hub:
Self-locking nut, upper wishbone follower joint to steering knuckle
stage 1: 20 Nm
stage 2: tighten 90 degrees
Self-locking nut, lower control arm to steering knuckle
230 Nm
Self-locking nut, lower front control arm to front axle carrier
270 Nm
Bolt, lower control arm at inside rear to front axle carrier
220 Nm
Bolt, lower control arm at outside rear to front axle carrier
180 Nm - Tie rod: Self-locking nut, tie rod to steering knuckle
stage 1: 45 Nm
stage 2: tighten 90 degrees - Wheel lug bolts
150 Nm in a star alternating pattern
- Retaining ring (nut), ball joint to steering knuckle
300 Nm
Last edited by maxusa; Dec 21, 2018 at 07:58 AM.
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Joined: Nov 2017
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From: Bethesda, MD
2010 Mercedes GL450; 2000 Mercedes ML55 AMG; 2016 VW GLI SEL Stick!!!
My X164 developed a number of front-end noises, and I decided to repair DIY. I am looking for procedures, how-to instructions, links, advice with the following:
- Bushings - Front Lower Control Arm (p/n 1643330314, 1643330414, 227532104)
- Ball Joint - Front Lower Control Arm (p/n 1643300935)
- Steering Outer and Inner Tie Rods (p/n 1643301103, 1644600005)
I plan to rent the press cups for bushings from a local auto store. I think that I have other tools for the job. Thanks for helping.
My own research into torque specs points to 110 Nm for inner tie rod and 60 Nm for outer rod's self-locking nut.
Replacing them solved all the front end noise issues
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 394
Likes: 155
2013 E63 P30, 2010 GL550
Yes, I replaced the sway bar links and bushings a few months ago hoping this was my problem, but it solved nothing. I should have mentioned that this part was recently done and good.
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From: Allentown, PA
'08 GL 320 CDI
Suggestion... It sounds like you're replacing parts without first diagnosing what is wrong. If you have deep pockets and are OK with that, then all is good. Otherwise, get underneath the truck and do some diagnosing before just throwing parts at it. I'm sorry, without doing some research myself, I can't offer the torque specs - but maybe some diagnosis will save you money so you can buy a service manual? 
I have yet to get one for my Merc, but I have a Bentley for my old BMW and it is very good.
I have yet to get one for my Merc, but I have a Bentley for my old BMW and it is very good.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 394
Likes: 155
2013 E63 P30, 2010 GL550
Thanks for the recommendation. A few months ago, I decided to tackle the noises. Did self-diag to no avail. So I started with the easiest step - I replaced the sway bar links and bushings. This did not help. And so I took the car to the local M-B dealer to diagnose; they could not figure it out driving and/or on the lift either. (It is a hit and miss with the dealer.) Since then the clicking, knocking, huffing, and creaking noises became more pronounced.
I already bought Lemforder parts listed earlier for both sides - they are relatively cheap. I do not mind. So I am definitely doing the replacements D-I-Y style and need help with torque specs, etc. Anything anyone can share. Much appreciated.
I already bought Lemforder parts listed earlier for both sides - they are relatively cheap. I do not mind. So I am definitely doing the replacements D-I-Y style and need help with torque specs, etc. Anything anyone can share. Much appreciated.
Last edited by maxusa; Dec 16, 2018 at 10:02 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 1,218
Likes: 149
From: Bethesda, MD
2010 Mercedes GL450; 2000 Mercedes ML55 AMG; 2016 VW GLI SEL Stick!!!
Thanks for the recommendation. A few months ago, I decided to tackle the noises. Did self-diag to no avail. So I started with the easiest step - I replaced the sway bar links and bushings. This did not help. And so I took the car to the local M-B dealer to diagnose; they could not figure it out driving and/or on the lift either. (It is a hit and miss with the dealer.) Since then the clicking, knocking, huffing, and squeaking noises became more pronounced.
I already bought Lemforder parts listed earlier for both sides - they are relatively cheap. I do not mind. So I am definitely doing the replacements D-I-Y style and need help with torque specs, etc. Anything anyone can share. Much appreciated.
I already bought Lemforder parts listed earlier for both sides - they are relatively cheap. I do not mind. So I am definitely doing the replacements D-I-Y style and need help with torque specs, etc. Anything anyone can share. Much appreciated.
Star or wis has all the required documents you need. I think it's 25 for a 24 hours access.
Last edited by kombifan; Dec 16, 2018 at 06:43 PM.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 1,218
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From: Bethesda, MD
2010 Mercedes GL450; 2000 Mercedes ML55 AMG; 2016 VW GLI SEL Stick!!!
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 1,932
Likes: 291
From: Allentown, PA
'08 GL 320 CDI
"Sometimes" you can get lucky in diagnosis by squirting, one at a time, the various components with something like silicone spray lube. If the noise lessens, or goes away, you've found at least one of the culprits. Just a thought for next time.
Good idea with AllData - I was actually just logging back on to recommend that as a possibility. Star is a good idea, too - I joined that a while ago, but never really dove all that deep into it - but have heard good things about it.
I assume you've probably done this, but just in case, when is the last time you calibrated your wrench? If not, using the torque specs is pretty much a moot point.
Good idea with AllData - I was actually just logging back on to recommend that as a possibility. Star is a good idea, too - I joined that a while ago, but never really dove all that deep into it - but have heard good things about it.
I assume you've probably done this, but just in case, when is the last time you calibrated your wrench? If not, using the torque specs is pretty much a moot point.
Last edited by DennisG01; Dec 16, 2018 at 09:12 PM.
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Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 394
Likes: 155
2013 E63 P30, 2010 GL550
Thanks for the pointers. I am beyond diagnosis. Having done due diligence while driving with the growing set of issues, it is time to act. Even if I replace components that haven't completely given up yet, it will be preventive maintenance. The truck is 9 years old, and it is time to take care of the front end. If nothing works, then by elimination, I will move to the upper control arms and airbags.
At this time, I am missing 2 torque numbers (a) for the lower ball joint bottom nut to the knuckle and (b) for the inner tie rod to the steering rack. Hope that someone can share.
At this time, I am missing 2 torque numbers (a) for the lower ball joint bottom nut to the knuckle and (b) for the inner tie rod to the steering rack. Hope that someone can share.
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Joined: Feb 2020
Posts: 118
Likes: 25
2012 GL350, 2014 GLK250
Thanks for the pointers. I am beyond diagnosis. Having done due diligence while driving with the growing set of issues, it is time to act. Even if I replace components that haven't completely given up yet, it will be preventive maintenance. The truck is 9 years old, and it is time to take care of the front end. If nothing works, then by elimination, I will move to the upper control arms and airbags.
At this time, I am missing 2 torque numbers (a) for the lower ball joint bottom nut to the knuckle and (b) for the inner tie rod to the steering rack. Hope that someone can share.
At this time, I am missing 2 torque numbers (a) for the lower ball joint bottom nut to the knuckle and (b) for the inner tie rod to the steering rack. Hope that someone can share.
Did you end up doing the job yourself? If so, how did you find it? do you have a lift or did you manage with jack and jackstands?
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From: Melbourne, Australia
2010 ML550 VIN WDC1641722A564750, 2010 B180
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Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 622
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From: CA
11 ML550, 95 Supra TT, 14 Audi S4
I did all the front end bushings + ball joints on mine a few months ago using a quickjack although jackstands would have worked too. Pretty straightforward job although I farmed the pressing of the bushings and ball joints in/out to a machine shop who charged $380ish for the work. Pay attention to the location of the spacer (big washer) on the front mount for the lower control arms - IIRC, it goes to the rear. Also, the driver's side upper control arm bolts aren't easy to access. Removing the coolant reservoir helps getting to the front one, and you'll need to take the air filter assembly off and have a helper to get the rear one. My bushings were pretty beat, but the ball joints were still in good shape and I didn't do the tie rods, since there didn't seem to be any slop in them at all. All my front end noises went away and the front end feels a lot less sloppy.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 394
Likes: 155
2013 E63 P30, 2010 GL550
This is an old thread. I used 2 floor jacks and jack stands. Bought a 20-ton press from HF, rented the bushing cups from AutoZone, and did all work myself. It took time, but the result is great. I believe the rear lower bushings wear out the most. Also replaced the air struts from RMT. My ball joints were fine, kept them. Since then, I acquired a STAR system and lift. Different repair capability.
Last edited by maxusa; Feb 23, 2021 at 03:09 PM.
Super Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 622
Likes: 202
From: CA
11 ML550, 95 Supra TT, 14 Audi S4
This is an old thread. I used 2 floor jacks and jack stands. Bought a 20-ton press from HF, rented the bushing cups from AutoZone, and did all work myself. It took time, but the result is great. I believe the rear lower bushings wear out the most. Also replaced the air struts from RMT. My ball joints were fine, kept them. Since then, I acquired a STAR system and lift. Different repair capability.
