maxusa

• Bushings - Front Lower Control Arm (p/n 1643330314, 1643330414, 227532104)
• Ball Joint - Front Lower Control Arm (p/n 1643300935)
• Steering Outer and Inner Tie Rods (p/n 1643301103, 1644600005)

UPDATE 1:
I am missing torque specs for inner tie rod to steering rack.

UPDATE 2:
The following are confirmed torque specs from ALLDATAdiy.com posted at another forum:

1. Front axle stabilizer bar:
   Nut, link rod to front shock
   200 Nm
   Bolts, bracket to engine subframe
   50 Nm
2. Air suspension: pressure line to front air suspension
   5 Nm
3. Front axle shock absorber:
   Top Nut for shock absorber on front end (3 strut mounting nuts)
   stage 1: 30 Nm
   stage 2: loosen 180 degrees
   stage 3: 27 Nm
   Self-locking nut for shock absorber on wishbone
   265 Nm
4. Wheel location, hub:
   Self-locking nut, upper wishbone follower joint to steering knuckle
   stage 1: 20 Nm
   stage 2: tighten 90 degrees
   Self-locking nut, lower control arm to steering knuckle
   230 Nm
   Self-locking nut, lower front control arm to front axle carrier
   270 Nm
   Bolt, lower control arm at inside rear to front axle carrier
   220 Nm
   Bolt, lower control arm at outside rear to front axle carrier
   180 Nm
5. Tie rod: Self-locking nut, tie rod to steering knuckle
   stage 1: 45 Nm
   stage 2: tighten 90 degrees
6. Wheel lug bolts
   150 Nm in a star alternating pattern

UPDATE 3:

1. Retaining ring (nut), ball joint to steering knuckle
   300 Nm

kombifan

maxusa

Yes, I replaced the sway bar links and bushings a few months ago hoping this was my problem, but it solved nothing. I should have mentioned that this part was recently done and good.

DennisG01

Suggestion... It sounds like you're replacing parts without first diagnosing what is wrong. If you have deep pockets and are OK with that, then all is good. Otherwise, get underneath the truck and do some diagnosing before just throwing parts at it. I'm sorry, without doing some research myself, I can't offer the torque specs - but maybe some diagnosis will save you money so you can buy a service manual? I have yet to get one for my Merc, but I have a Bentley for my old BMW and it is very good.

maxusa

Thanks for the recommendation. A few months ago, I decided to tackle the noises. Did self-diag to no avail. So I started with the easiest step - I replaced the sway bar links and bushings. This did not help. And so I took the car to the local M-B dealer to diagnose; they could not figure it out driving and/or on the lift either. (It is a hit and miss with the dealer.) Since then the clicking, knocking, huffing, and creaking noises became more pronounced.

I already bought Lemforder parts listed earlier for both sides - they are relatively cheap. I do not mind. So I am definitely doing the replacements D-I-Y style and need help with torque specs, etc. Anything anyone can share. Much appreciated.

kombifan

kombifan

DennisG01

"Sometimes" you can get lucky in diagnosis by squirting, one at a time, the various components with something like silicone spray lube. If the noise lessens, or goes away, you've found at least one of the culprits. Just a thought for next time.

Good idea with AllData - I was actually just logging back on to recommend that as a possibility. Star is a good idea, too - I joined that a while ago, but never really dove all that deep into it - but have heard good things about it.

I assume you've probably done this, but just in case, when is the last time you calibrated your wrench? If not, using the torque specs is pretty much a moot point.

maxusa

Thanks for the pointers. I am beyond diagnosis. Having done due diligence while driving with the growing set of issues, it is time to act. Even if I replace components that haven't completely given up yet, it will be preventive maintenance. The truck is 9 years old, and it is time to take care of the front end. If nothing works, then by elimination, I will move to the upper control arms and airbags.

At this time, I am missing 2 torque numbers (a) for the lower ball joint bottom nut to the knuckle and (b) for the inner tie rod to the steering rack. Hope that someone can share.

Misha_

Hi maxusa!
Did you end up doing the job yourself? If so, how did you find it? do you have a lift or did you manage with jack and jackstands?

BlackML550

Yeah, would love to know how this went. Have to do the same job myself.

EWT

I did all the front end bushings + ball joints on mine a few months ago using a quickjack although jackstands would have worked too. Pretty straightforward job although I farmed the pressing of the bushings and ball joints in/out to a machine shop who charged $380ish for the work. Pay attention to the location of the spacer (big washer) on the front mount for the lower control arms - IIRC, it goes to the rear. Also, the driver's side upper control arm bolts aren't easy to access. Removing the coolant reservoir helps getting to the front one, and you'll need to take the air filter assembly off and have a helper to get the rear one. My bushings were pretty beat, but the ball joints were still in good shape and I didn't do the tie rods, since there didn't seem to be any slop in them at all. All my front end noises went away and the front end feels a lot less sloppy.

maxusa

This is an old thread. I used 2 floor jacks and jack stands. Bought a 20-ton press from HF, rented the bushing cups from AutoZone, and did all work myself. It took time, but the result is great. I believe the rear lower bushings wear out the most. Also replaced the air struts from RMT. My ball joints were fine, kept them. Since then, I acquired a STAR system and lift. Different repair capability.

EWT

I may tackle the rear ones at some point. The shock bushing on one side is obviously bad. The others are intact, but are probably due for replacement.