Front suspension chattering noise
02-17-2019, 10:45 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Front suspension chattering noise
Hi all.
I've been encountering a front chattering noise that comes from the front left suspension area when driving. It usually happens only at low speeds but it has even happened at highway speeds if there are imperfections in the road surface.
It sounds like the strut is bouncing around. Do struts make this noise when hheyve failed?
What else could it be?
The strut was replaced with a reman oe unit less than 2 years ago. The sway bar end links were replaced 8 months ago. I tightened hhe end links in case it was loose and was rattling around but it didn't help.
Ball joint look good...as well as tie rod ends. No tears or splits.
Not sure if the strut needs another replacment or not. Just looking for any other extra insight.
Thanks
I've been encountering a front chattering noise that comes from the front left suspension area when driving. It usually happens only at low speeds but it has even happened at highway speeds if there are imperfections in the road surface.
It sounds like the strut is bouncing around. Do struts make this noise when hheyve failed?
What else could it be?
The strut was replaced with a reman oe unit less than 2 years ago. The sway bar end links were replaced 8 months ago. I tightened hhe end links in case it was loose and was rattling around but it didn't help.
Ball joint look good...as well as tie rod ends. No tears or splits.
Not sure if the strut needs another replacment or not. Just looking for any other extra insight.
Thanks
02-17-2019, 11:09 PM
#3
MBWorld Fanatic!
I don't think that simply tightening the end links eliminates them as a possible source to the problem - and, without a doubt, they are the most common source of front end knocking. Disconnect them and go for a ride - see if the knocking goes away. Just keep in mind that you no longer have your "anti-sway" bars, so be careful in the twisties.
02-17-2019, 11:50 PM
#4
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Thread Starter
I don't think that simply tightening the end links eliminates them as a possible source to the problem - and, without a doubt, they are the most common source of front end knocking. Disconnect them and go for a ride - see if the knocking goes away. Just keep in mind that you no longer have your "anti-sway" bars, so be careful in the twisties.
I did replace them with rein end links I got from fcp euro a while ago because they didn't have the lemforder oe ones.
Is there a correct way to replace these. I remember they were quite difficult to maneuver in and I had to raise and lower the car to fit it in.
02-18-2019, 08:40 AM
#5
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Thread Starter
I don't think that simply tightening the end links eliminates them as a possible source to the problem - and, without a doubt, they are the most common source of front end knocking. Disconnect them and go for a ride - see if the knocking goes away. Just keep in mind that you no longer have your "anti-sway" bars, so be careful in the twisties.
The noise is still there.
It's not a knocking noise. I had that before, before j replaced the end links and that was obvious knocking and feedback through the steering wheel.
This sounds like chattering, and a bouncing noise that I can hear from the left front wheel area. Almost like something is getting compressed and bouncing back.
02-18-2019, 11:00 AM
#6
MBWorld Fanatic!
OK, at least you negated the end links from the equation.
-- If you're feeling adventurous, put your phone (maybe use an old one) on a stick and set it to record video. Take a ride and drive over an area where you know it will make the noise - stick the phone out the window and record. Maybe it will show the wheel hopping - maybe not - either way, it could be productive.
-- Jack the front end up (jackstands, so you can get underneath). Push/pull everything with the front suspension that you can get your hands on, feeling/looking for movement. I've seen plenty of mechanics also use a long bar to get some extra leverage on things. They crank pretty hard on certain areas - the car puts more stress on these things than we can.
-- With the front end off the ground, don't forget to play around with the strut. You could even use a 2x4 or 4x4 as a lever, underneath the wheel (or other solid area) and use your weight to quickly lift the wheel, again looking/listening for odd noises. Think "seesaw"... one end under the wheel, your foot on the other end, with a block underneath as the pivot point. Keep the block closer to the wheel for better leverage. I've never actually tried this one, but it seems like a decent idea - and certainly can't hurt.
When I recently replaced my end link, I don't recall there being anything especially hard. In fact, if memory serves, it was a pretty quick job. Take a look at the sway bar bushings... maybe they're shot?
-- If you're feeling adventurous, put your phone (maybe use an old one) on a stick and set it to record video. Take a ride and drive over an area where you know it will make the noise - stick the phone out the window and record. Maybe it will show the wheel hopping - maybe not - either way, it could be productive.
-- Jack the front end up (jackstands, so you can get underneath). Push/pull everything with the front suspension that you can get your hands on, feeling/looking for movement. I've seen plenty of mechanics also use a long bar to get some extra leverage on things. They crank pretty hard on certain areas - the car puts more stress on these things than we can.
-- With the front end off the ground, don't forget to play around with the strut. You could even use a 2x4 or 4x4 as a lever, underneath the wheel (or other solid area) and use your weight to quickly lift the wheel, again looking/listening for odd noises. Think "seesaw"... one end under the wheel, your foot on the other end, with a block underneath as the pivot point. Keep the block closer to the wheel for better leverage. I've never actually tried this one, but it seems like a decent idea - and certainly can't hurt.
When I recently replaced my end link, I don't recall there being anything especially hard. In fact, if memory serves, it was a pretty quick job. Take a look at the sway bar bushings... maybe they're shot?
02-18-2019, 11:17 AM
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
OK, at least you negated the end links from the equation.
-- If you're feeling adventurous, put your phone (maybe use an old one) on a stick and set it to record video. Take a ride and drive over an area where you know it will make the noise - stick the phone out the window and record. Maybe it will show the wheel hopping - maybe not - either way, it could be productive.
-- Jack the front end up (jackstands, so you can get underneath). Push/pull everything with the front suspension that you can get your hands on, feeling/looking for movement. I've seen plenty of mechanics also use a long bar to get some extra leverage on things. They crank pretty hard on certain areas - the car puts more stress on these things than we can.
-- With the front end off the ground, don't forget to play around with the strut. You could even use a 2x4 or 4x4 as a lever, underneath the wheel (or other solid area) and use your weight to quickly lift the wheel, again looking/listening for odd noises. Think "seesaw"... one end under the wheel, your foot on the other end, with a block underneath as the pivot point. Keep the block closer to the wheel for better leverage. I've never actually tried this one, but it seems like a decent idea - and certainly can't hurt.
When I recently replaced my end link, I don't recall there being anything especially hard. In fact, if memory serves, it was a pretty quick job. Take a look at the sway bar bushings... maybe they're shot?
-- If you're feeling adventurous, put your phone (maybe use an old one) on a stick and set it to record video. Take a ride and drive over an area where you know it will make the noise - stick the phone out the window and record. Maybe it will show the wheel hopping - maybe not - either way, it could be productive.
-- Jack the front end up (jackstands, so you can get underneath). Push/pull everything with the front suspension that you can get your hands on, feeling/looking for movement. I've seen plenty of mechanics also use a long bar to get some extra leverage on things. They crank pretty hard on certain areas - the car puts more stress on these things than we can.
-- With the front end off the ground, don't forget to play around with the strut. You could even use a 2x4 or 4x4 as a lever, underneath the wheel (or other solid area) and use your weight to quickly lift the wheel, again looking/listening for odd noises. Think "seesaw"... one end under the wheel, your foot on the other end, with a block underneath as the pivot point. Keep the block closer to the wheel for better leverage. I've never actually tried this one, but it seems like a decent idea - and certainly can't hurt.
When I recently replaced my end link, I don't recall there being anything especially hard. In fact, if memory serves, it was a pretty quick job. Take a look at the sway bar bushings... maybe they're shot?
I ended up bringing it to my sa at the dealership after j posted it. I've had the struts replaced before and they have a 2 year warranty so I though what the heck. If he finds something and it's the struts; it's free. If it's something else my extended warranty will pay for it.
I don't know. Maybe I was doing something wrong when I installed them the first time. I really had to finagle them in, playing around with lifting the car. Wheel off. Wheel on lowering the car etc to get the top and bottom link in.
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02-18-2019, 05:29 PM
#9
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Thread Starter
I just heard back from my sa; but he also found other things that were going on.
Hes going to replace both front sway bar end links. Which probably means the rein links I used up front are not great quality.
The central idler pulley needs to be replaced, I had mentioned that there was incessant squeaking so that makes sense.
And the oil oil separator needs replacing as its leaking.
Although I checked this weekend and I didn’t see a major oil leak ; but it’s covereed anyway.
Hes going to replace both front sway bar end links. Which probably means the rein links I used up front are not great quality.
The central idler pulley needs to be replaced, I had mentioned that there was incessant squeaking so that makes sense.
And the oil oil separator needs replacing as its leaking.
Although I checked this weekend and I didn’t see a major oil leak ; but it’s covereed anyway.
02-18-2019, 05:53 PM
#10
MBWorld Fanatic!
Hmmm. If you disconnected the end links and the noise didn't go away, that means they didn't find the noise and are just making an educated guess as to what to replace... starting with the most common thing.
02-18-2019, 06:20 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
Yes I had that thought.
But once the warranty kicks in they can keep replacing parts and I’m still only responsible for 1 deductible.
We’ll see Tom how the noise is. Most of the time it’s hard for them to even replicate a noise or complaint so I’m slightly hopeful they’ll sort it out.
But once the warranty kicks in they can keep replacing parts and I’m still only responsible for 1 deductible.
We’ll see Tom how the noise is. Most of the time it’s hard for them to even replicate a noise or complaint so I’m slightly hopeful they’ll sort it out.
02-19-2019, 07:30 AM
#12
Super Member
If you still have the noise, try raising your ride height then lower it and check for the chatter again. If the chatter disappears/lessens for a short while (day or so) then you might have an issue with that specific air strut not inflating to the proper height; in which case the chatter may be originating from the gap between the 'strut support base' (where the bag sits on the strut) and the bag itself.
02-19-2019, 07:40 AM
#13
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Thread Starter
Yes I tried raising it this weekend and noticed the chatter goes away when raised.
02-19-2019, 11:52 AM
#14
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Thread Starter
This is the receipt. I haven’t driven the car yet because they still need to fix a parking sensor that became chipped due to a paint issue.
Could anyone tell me what the 4 locks are for the front sway bar links?
02-19-2019, 12:43 PM
#15
MBWorld Fanatic!
Google says that that "lock" is a locking ring. Funny, though, I don't remember that from when I replaced mine. Maybe my year didn't use it... or maybe I just don't remember!
02-19-2019, 12:47 PM
#16
MBWorld Fanatic!
Thread Starter
It it looks like a locking bracket on google ..but still don’t remember seeing it when I was under the car.
02-20-2019, 01:23 AM
#17
MBWorld Fanatic!
On my 2012 GL550 I'm having the same knocking issue, mostly noticeable when driving slower speeds and going over bumps. Doing research looks like this is caused by the front suspension (anti-rollbar/swaybar links). I found a video on youtube that walks through replacement. Both sides should be replaced as a set, looks pretty straight forward. I'm going to order the links and report back with my results.
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machadosl (02-20-2019)
02-20-2019, 01:33 PM
#18
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Thread Starter
On my 2012 GL550 I'm having the same knocking issue, mostly noticeable when driving slower speeds and going over bumps. Doing research looks like this is caused by the front suspension (anti-rollbar/swaybar links). I found a video on youtube that walks through replacement. Both sides should be replaced as a set, looks pretty straight forward. I'm going to order the links and report back with my results.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0e687-ZobM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0e687-ZobM
That autodoc video.
Yeah it's never going to be as easy as rhey make it be. I did watch that when I did mine and it wasn't that easy.
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bensitto (02-20-2019)
02-21-2019, 12:42 PM
#19
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Thread Starter
I got my car back. It was definitely hhe front sway bar end links and whatever the locks are that was causing the noise and rattling.
I followed the instructions to the letter when j used the rein end links so all I can conclude is stay away from the rein endlinks as they may not be completely up to spec when compared with the oe lemforder (even though fcp euro says these are fine).
Also the upper idler pulley is crap. It's been replaced 3 times now.
For now It rides nice and noise free and at least now I have another 2 yr warranty on these parts.
I followed the instructions to the letter when j used the rein end links so all I can conclude is stay away from the rein endlinks as they may not be completely up to spec when compared with the oe lemforder (even though fcp euro says these are fine).
Also the upper idler pulley is crap. It's been replaced 3 times now.
For now It rides nice and noise free and at least now I have another 2 yr warranty on these parts.
Last edited by kombifan; 02-21-2019 at 12:47 PM.
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machadosl (02-21-2019)
02-21-2019, 12:58 PM
#20
MBWorld Fanatic!
Glad to hear it's all figured out. BUT, why did the sound NOT go away when you disconnected the end links?
I wouldn't necessarily condemn Rein fully for this. Any part/brand can be defective... and the GL is notorious for eating end links, regardless of manufacturer.
I wouldn't necessarily condemn Rein fully for this. Any part/brand can be defective... and the GL is notorious for eating end links, regardless of manufacturer.
02-22-2019, 01:41 PM
#22
i have yet to find a quality non- oem end links. all the aftermarket ones i have seen have failed within 1000 miles. some- much sooner.
if your endlinks are on their way out (and the original ones usually are done around 75-100k miles) your best bet is oem. and i dont say that lightly as i am always for the customer saving money on their own if possible
if your endlinks are on their way out (and the original ones usually are done around 75-100k miles) your best bet is oem. and i dont say that lightly as i am always for the customer saving money on their own if possible
02-22-2019, 02:14 PM
#23
MBWorld Fanatic!
i have yet to find a quality non- oem end links. all the aftermarket ones i have seen have failed within 1000 miles. some- much sooner.
if your endlinks are on their way out (and the original ones usually are done around 75-100k miles) your best bet is oem. and i dont say that lightly as i am always for the customer saving money on their own if possible
if your endlinks are on their way out (and the original ones usually are done around 75-100k miles) your best bet is oem. and i dont say that lightly as i am always for the customer saving money on their own if possible
Last edited by DennisG01; 02-22-2019 at 09:05 PM.
02-22-2019, 07:01 PM
#24
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Thread Starter
I never realized that... that the OEM ones would last that long. For some reason, I always thought they failed just as quickly. Are saying to get the "MB" branded one or Lemforder? I'm not sure if Lem is OE for this part, or just OEM? If they can last anywhere near as long as you say, that's well worth my time - granted, not hard to replace, but still...
The rein fronts didn't look like the mb ones.
I guess for next time I know
Thanks alx
02-23-2019, 11:05 AM
#25
MBWorld Fanatic!
I've been having a clunking noise at low speeds for quite some time now, and it's been developing from the right front over to the left front as well - Initially, I thought the remanufactured struts were knocking. So I got a set of chassis ears and put a mike on the struts, upper/lower control arms, and the sway bar bushings and end links - guess what; massive noise from the sway bar bushings. Nothing significant coming out of the struts. So for $100 ish I'm replacing the bushings and end links and that ought to do it. And, if you're a reasonably skilled DIYer, having a set of chassis ears is FUN!
