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I am seeing constant threads on oil leaks,transmission, air suspension, and emissions...., but not much on a poor unstable feeling of driving. My vehicles steering and front suspension feels very wonky and loose. My vehicle has now over 180k.
I had taken to an Indy who noted the control arms, tie rod ends, and leaking rack. I plan to have these changed in addition to replacing rack with rebuilt unit and sway bar bushings. Also plan to replace all rotor/pads and tires(60k on pirelli scorpion ) followed by alignment at Mercedes. Anything else to possibly change while in there? That mechanic might not thought of. He briefly had it in the rack. I don’t mind changing parts if possibly will wear out in near future based on mileage/age, Or with these other parts removed making the job much easier.
Also are there any other items to check on further up the chain that might have issues after 200k. Hopefully running to 300k or more. 😁
thanks for reading and advising
steve
Last edited by smiledr996s; 02-22-2019 at 07:54 AM.
2010 Mercedes GL450; 2000 Mercedes ML55 AMG; 2016 VW GLI SEL Stick!!!
There’s a lot on poor unstable driving feel. Most of these threads are about the sway bar end links which I see you didn’t cover.
I would do your sway sway bar end links front and rear. That will help immensely. I’m sure they’re not doing much good right now if they’re the original ones.
2010 Mercedes GL450; 2000 Mercedes ML55 AMG; 2016 VW GLI SEL Stick!!!
No they're different. And they're really the main reason people complain about the steering feel being like driving a big bus or the knocking noises from the suspension.
I use to get alot of "drifting" on the highway in my 2010 GL550. I replaced the sway bar bushings, tires (important), and front struts with (Arnotts). I went to the dealer and got an alignment.
Still "drifts" a little bit. Not nearly as much. From what I understand from others is all wheel drive will have some drifting.
I hate to say it, but I truly believe it's the steering rack. Theres alot of play in the steering wheel when highway driving while driving straight.
I think it is a combination of things which is why mine has gotten so bad. The front air springs have been replaced. But the control arm bushing looks really bad. My steering rack is leaking not sure exactly where but... I have read some who posted it really made a difference replacing so I am going with it. So will have the following replaced and update.
Steering rack. (A1 cardone) and bushings
Sway bar bushings and end links
Tie rod ends
Right cv axel (low mileage salvage part)
Front and rear pads and rotors
Lower control arms. (Dealer $500 )
Tires probably go back with pirelli scorpion
I am sure he will find something else while he has apart. I can tell you looking at my control arm bushings the look shot. I will post images when finished. Below is new.
It is a shame but true it is hard to swollow the cost when you can’t do yourself. But I really would like to keep the vehicle.
Last edited by smiledr996s; 02-23-2019 at 06:09 PM.
2010 Mercedes GL450; 2000 Mercedes ML55 AMG; 2016 VW GLI SEL Stick!!!
Originally Posted by smiledr996s
I think it is a combination of things which is why mine has gotten so bad. The front air springs have been replaced. But the control arm bushing looks really bad. My steering rack is leaking not sure exactly where but... I have read some who posted it really made a difference replacing so I am going with it. So will have the following replaced and update.
Steering rack. (A1 cardone) and bushings
Sway bar bushings and end links
Tie rod ends
Right cv axel (low mileage salvage part)
Front and rear pads and rotors
Lower control arms. (Dealer $500 )
Tires probably go back with pirelli scorpion
I am sure he will find something else while he has apart. I can tell you looking at my control arm bushings the look shot. I will post images when finished. Below is new.
It is a shame but true it is hard to swollow the cost when you can’t do yourself. But I really would like to keep the vehicle.
oof.
Both are oe according to fcpeuro. Might want to call them to see what the difference is.
Lol. I had ordered from them 3-4 times and they kept showing up damaged from shipping. So I returned each time and finally gave up. I liked the fact they had lifetime warranty. But I likely may be done when I have to change again. Or I may try to find someone to rebuild them.
Last edited by smiledr996s; 02-23-2019 at 08:07 PM.
2010 Mercedes GL450; 2000 Mercedes ML55 AMG; 2016 VW GLI SEL Stick!!!
Originally Posted by smiledr996s
Lol. I had ordered from them 3-4 times and they kept showing up damaged from shipping. So I returned each time and finally gave up. I liked the fact they had lifetime warranty. But I likely may be done when I have to change again. Or I may try to find someone to rebuild them.
really?!
every order I’ve had from them this past year has been great.
the Control arms are heavy. Probably 70-80 lbs for both of them. They would arrive with the box torn and dents where the control arm hit the pavement. Probably would have been ok but rather not take a chance. If there was micro fractures in the casting. You can see the denting along the upper mating surface. And this was one of the less damaged ones.
I'd consider your powersteering pump as well. With a leaking rack, its possible that the ps level was low enough to cause increased wear. My leaking rack was replaced and within 10k miles, the ps pump went out.
Front control arm rear mount bushings do suffer from premature failure.
Also OEM there is only front Toe "directional" adjustment.
No Camber or Caster to adjust tire contact angles to resolve costly, premature edge tire wear.
Adjustment essential to cater for other than showroom height conditions. Day to day commuting encountering high cambered roads, fitting wide profile tires / wheels, altered height through load carrying or lowering, correctly resolving steering pull. With the ongoing adjustment allowing for curb knock damage.
We saw the need therefore to design replacements for these total of 4 front highest wearing bushings and include precise single wrench Camber adjustment and also separate Caster adjustment
P/N 503816 M $595 $30 delivery worldwide (W166 / X166 P/N 504016 M $595)
For the rear manufacture the 4 lower arm bushings that are also Camber and Toe adjustable. Doubling the existing adjustment range P/N 504026 $480 (W164 / X164, W166 / X166)
Delivery one kit $30 F/R $50
NOTE: F/R kits both supplied with bush extraction tools so no need for arm removal
For owners that have "lowered center of gravity" to improve handling response more the 1 1/2" (40mm) Front kit (W164 / X164) P/N 503816-1 N $695
(W166 / X166) P/N 504016-1 N $695
Finally completed the front suspension. Factory control arms,front sway bar bushings,a1 cardone steering rack,tie rod ends ,and sway bar end links. Completed by an Indy. Just need to bring to dealer to put on new tires and complete an alignment. It definitely feels much tighter at 183k.
This is what the control arm bushing looked like. The other bushings on the control arm did not look as worn out, but figured I would go new. I am suprised I don’t see more posts on the suspension.
I forgot to mention about a month or more ago I came out to see the RF slammed. It only happened once. I figured some king of glitch and actually forgot about it. I guess since it sat many days at the mechanic it dropped some again. I had about 50k on the arnott front air springs.
My my question is.... Is there a
chance that besides a slight leak. The air spring with 50k could cause the vehicle ride to feel soft and loose similar to worn out struts/springs ? Is there other components in the air spring that might be worn out? I thought the arnott units were supposed to be better then factory.
2010 Mercedes GL450; 2000 Mercedes ML55 AMG; 2016 VW GLI SEL Stick!!!
This is my opinion. By how often I’ve heard fail rates of Arnott on here by members I don’t think they are of better quality than original mb or bilstein.
They do do have a better warranty. I think that’s what you end up paying for when you go to Arnott.
i think your rf is shot again. And that you should call Arnott.
So have arnott covered both front air springs even only one was deemed bad. After 50k it is a dramatic difference in stability. Hopefully the arnott will last longer then 50k. But I am ok to pay 300 to change if they keep covering the parts. To have it riding like new.
Just have to see how the engine holds up since using the contaminated fuel.
02-22-2019, 07:49 AM
