GL Class (X164) 2007-2012: GL320CDI, GL420CDI, GL450, GL550

Suspension parts recommendation needed

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Old 04-29-2019, 12:02 PM
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Suspension parts recommendation needed

Hi all,

I have 2011 GL350 and it is making a lot of clunking thudding noises from the passenger side... Talked to my local mechanic and he recommended to replace both upper and lower control arms and the ball joints. (already replaced a stabilizer link for the driver side - this was somewhat surprising to me... i thought the passenger side would need the replacement...)

I looked on the pelican website for the MB genuine and Lemforder parts and they are almost 3 times more expensive than my mechanic's recommended Delphi parts from the Rock auto.... has anyone experience with Delphi parts? are they good quality parts or should I spend more onto either MB genuine or Lemforder parts???

Thanks
Old 04-29-2019, 12:30 PM
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2010 Mercedes GL450; 2000 Mercedes ML55 AMG; 2016 VW GLI SEL Stick!!!
Originally Posted by taeandji
Hi all,

I have 2011 GL350 and it is making a lot of clunking thudding noises from the passenger side... Talked to my local mechanic and he recommended to replace both upper and lower control arms and the ball joints. (already replaced a stabilizer link for the driver side - this was somewhat surprising to me... i thought the passenger side would need the replacement...)

I looked on the pelican website for the MB genuine and Lemforder parts and they are almost 3 times more expensive than my mechanic's recommended Delphi parts from the Rock auto.... has anyone experience with Delphi parts? are they good quality parts or should I spend more onto either MB genuine or Lemforder parts???

Thanks
did you replace the sway bar ebdlinks with mb genuine.

If not. This time try doing both first.

Yiu can diy this. It’s very easy. I did this too!

Also so have you ever replaced the shocks?
Control arms just seem a bit extreme....
i believe you are being taken for a ride.

Try the sway bar endlinks with mb parts first before you try anything else. Replace the rearswith lemforder if you are diying it.
If you need tips let me know.
Old 04-29-2019, 12:38 PM
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a MB dealer has replaced the driver's side link once at 75,000 miles (now it has about 119,000 miles) and this time I also have MB part put on. (only ordered 1 for the passenger side but the mechanic said the driver's side had a lot of play but the passenger side link was very tight so he replaced the driver side...) i'm not sure if i needed to replace the both links at this same time though...
Old 04-29-2019, 12:44 PM
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Mercedes recommends only to replace in pairs. But I guess if you are paying for it yourself they do only one if you want to.

Ummm. Yeah I would try replacing them again. Both. Doesn’t sound right if the replacement wore out so quickly. I imagine accelerated wear from the side that wasn’t replaced. Can you check yourself for split boots of the ball joint?
Does the clunking get worse over rough roads or speed bumps.
Old 04-29-2019, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by kombifan
Mercedes recommends only to replace in pairs. But I guess if you are paying for it yourself they do only one if you want to.

Ummm. Yeah I would try replacing them again. Both. Doesn’t sound right if the replacement wore out so quickly. I imagine accelerated wear from the side that wasn’t replaced. Can you check yourself for split boots of the ball joint?
Does the clunking get worse over rough roads or speed bumps.
originally the driver side was replaced due to improper towing from a stupid tow truck driver... the 2nd time... i just replaced it today and I think I'm going to order another to replace the passenger side. when does MB recommend to replace the ball joint and both upper and lower control arm? the reason why my mechanic recommends replacing all of those is to save the labor cost by doing it all it once... (he is very reasonable for the labor, only paid $30 for the link replacement though)
Old 04-29-2019, 01:04 PM
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They shouldn’t need to be replaced unless there is an extreme amount of play or cracked.

Never had had to do control arms on my 2000 w163. But I had to do ball joints at 18 years.

On the gl...unless they’re cracked or you can hear clunking after you’ve done both of the sway bar repair. Then I’d inversitgate the control arms and ball joints.

If labor is cheap. Chuck on new rear sway bar endlinks too. It’s worth it. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...ink-1643201232

and your question about Delphi. No I wouldn’t trust it. I don’t at least. Id only stick with lemforder or mb genuine.

Last edited by kombifan; 04-29-2019 at 01:07 PM.
Old 04-29-2019, 01:20 PM
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Disconnect the end links and go for a drive... does the clunk go away? Be aware... the car won't handle as nice without the sway bar!
Old 04-29-2019, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by kombifan
They shouldn’t need to be replaced unless there is an extreme amount of play or cracked.

Never had had to do control arms on my 2000 w163. But I had to do ball joints at 18 years.

On the gl...unless they’re cracked or you can hear clunking after you’ve done both of the sway bar repair. Then I’d inversitgate the control arms and ball joints.

If labor is cheap. Chuck on new rear sway bar endlinks too. It’s worth it. https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...ink-1643201232

and your question about Delphi. No I wouldn’t trust it. I don’t at least. Id only stick with lemforder or mb genuine.
Just ordered 1 front link and 2 rear links from MBonlineparts.com and i will see if those noises come back then i may try changing the ball joints...
Old 04-29-2019, 08:55 PM
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2010 GL 450
I hate to add to the mayhem here but I've been having rattles to. My wife described it today as "alot of bumbling" coming from the front when riding on rougher roads, potholes, etc.

- New front Air springs were installed in Dec. Me jumping up and down on the truck doesn't replicate the sound

- I replaced the front end links but noise still persists

- I took a pic of the upper control arms and the boots looks worn




Thoughts?

Old 04-29-2019, 10:00 PM
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2010 Mercedes GL450; 2000 Mercedes ML55 AMG; 2016 VW GLI SEL Stick!!!
Try hey to get your car on a lift and see if there is a clunk when you try to move tire vertically or horizontally. Ie 12 and 6 vs 9 and 3.

Clunking or movement when trying these two different positions mean two different things. I have forgotten which means which though.

Originally Posted by DrMel
I hate to add to the mayhem here but I've been having rattles to. My wife described it today as "alot of bumbling" coming from the front when riding on rougher roads, potholes, etc.

- New front Air springs were installed in Dec. Me jumping up and down on the truck doesn't replicate the sound

- I replaced the front end links but noise still persists

- I took a pic of the upper control arms and the boots looks worn




Thoughts?

Old 04-30-2019, 02:46 PM
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GL450
My car was making a lot of clunking thudding noises so I took it to my MB dealer. They suggested that the car needed the upper control arms and struts (leaking air), they replaced both, I asked them to replace the sway bar bushings and the end links. After driving for less than a month I found that the the steering rack was leaking and the mounting bushings were completely destroyed. I got a new rack and the noise was still noticeable. I went back to the dealer and they could not find the problem, so I decided to go under the car and with a plastic hammer tap on every place there is a rubber mount or ball joint. I found that the noise came from the differential. MB dealer was amazed that I could find the problem. They removed the differential and found that the noise came from the inside. I asked them to disassemble to find out from where the noise came. The bearing from the right wheel had enough play and damaged the housing. After big arguments with the dealer and my extended warranty, I got the differential replaced.
My two cents, before replacing components make sure from where the noise come.

Last edited by DarthVaderpa; 04-30-2019 at 02:48 PM.
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