Ghost in the machine! All Lights and Gauges on?
I accidentally left my inverter on and it drained my battery twice. After I jump started it the second time I got a SRS light on the dash that said "SRS Malfunction - Front Left Visit Workshop.
I already had a icon with a car and a down error that said malfunction but I was told it was something to do with the suspension so I had time to get it checked out.
After using my Carsoft MN II to attempt to reset it/turn it off (it wouldn't let me) I ended up making it worse and getting a ABS light and an error message on the dash that says in big words BRAKE with something else small under it that I can't remember (sorry)
I've done some audio updates (radio, rear screens, power inverter) and had intermittent issues with the set up over the past year.
I finally got it in the shop to get it rewired and set up over the past 2 weeks. During those 2 weeks one of the guys runs out of gas in the truck.
While they are working on the truck the truck gave a P0073 error for the ambient Temp Sensor. I just thought it was cause they ran out of gas.
I get the car back and 2 days later I'm driving and ALL the lights start coming on...the dash meters (RPM & Speed) start jumping...gas meter does too...lights are flashing
like there is a ghost in the machine!
The error on the dash said check the coolant so I eventually pull over and stop to check the coolant and I made the mistake of turning the car off.
The car started beeping and the dash in red says "drive to the nearest shop but do not change gears" and the beeping just will not stop.
From that point the car would not turn back on. I did get it to turn back on once but it wouldn't shift gears. I didn't even show a light saying its in Park.
I had it towed to the nearest repair shop and every time they attempt to scan the car they get a link error.
at the repair shop I attempted to hook the battery up to a jump pack cause i read it might be a power issue but that didnt help.
I've read things about the ISM...I have also read things about the Aux battery...I'm totally at a loss right now...could the audio stuff be pulling too much power or is it just coincidence?
Why are the scanners giving a link error?
Any help or insight is definitly appreciated
Last edited by Mikchek; Oct 13, 2020 at 05:56 PM.
With the car not running, if the voltmeter measures below 11V, you're most likely in the market for a new battery. You can revive the battery with a trickle charge if it's around 11.7V or above. You might revive it if it's between 11V and 11.6V Ideally, it should be around 12.4-12.5V when the car is not running. IIRC that is approx 70% charge. There are tons of resources online about battery health and voltage ranges and their meaning for battery health. The ranges I indicated I have remembered from reading some of those resources. Take the 11V ranges with a +/-.2 deviation.
What kind of jump pack? A professional grade or pocket size consumer grade which claims to charge everything under the sun? Not trying to make fun here, just asking for clarity.
Did you try directly to the battery terminals (pain if not removed, but possible) or did you use the positive/ground points under the hood? Not sure if you have those under the hood in your MY, actually. I would go to the battery terminals directly.
If your battery is beyond repair, it might not take the jump pack. Slow trickle charger might work, but if it has a built in bad battery detector it will error and you can't use one of those either. If you have a trickle charger from the 80s without the fancy foolproof extras, that might work, or you might try a professional grade jump pack for that as well.
Alternative is to take the battery to a shop for them to test and/or replace. I would replace the aux battery as well, since you will have the main battery out. It is likely the cause of your "gear change" conundrum.
The aux battery is also in there but doesn’t have any primary starting or driving functions, it just powers some keep alive backup functions such as letting the car shift out of park when the main battery is dead, to facilitate flat towing.






