2007 GL450 interior door pull bar/handle broke
#28
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2007 GL450
The plastic identifier would be near the part number.
Since your next step is to install a mechanical support, you might want to try ABS cement anyway. Just dab a little bit on some out of the way location and see if it fuses with the plastic as it hardens.
Since your next step is to install a mechanical support, you might want to try ABS cement anyway. Just dab a little bit on some out of the way location and see if it fuses with the plastic as it hardens.
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texas008 (03-26-2024)
#29
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thanks for the info. will try it.
ABS cement seems to be the purple solvent/glue that the plumber uses to connect pvc pipes/connectors
ABS cement seems to be the purple solvent/glue that the plumber uses to connect pvc pipes/connectors
#30
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ABS is typically black and is used for drain lines. PVC is typically white and is used for cold water supply lines (e.g. sprinklers). The purple is a primer that is used to "roughen" the surface of PVC prior to gluing. The only reason it is purple is to indicate that primer has been applied. ABS glue is black.
Incidentally, the V stands for vinyl. You can use PVC glue for many products that appear to be rubber or leather. I glued in a sprinkler line junction that was offset by about a half inch; no PVC fittings would work, but vinyl tubing did.
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texas008 (03-26-2024)
#31
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#32
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Thanks for the info. about different glues for different plastic.
btw., I'm trying to seal off the water jet holes of a bathtub, since they are not working and not needed. The bathtub is made of thick creamy color plastic (is it acrylic?) and I'm planning to glue round pieces of rigid vinyl (wall protectors) to cover the jet holes. wondering which glue should I use? I could probably secure it using screws too, and seal the edge using water proof calking. Thanks a lot.
btw., I'm trying to seal off the water jet holes of a bathtub, since they are not working and not needed. The bathtub is made of thick creamy color plastic (is it acrylic?) and I'm planning to glue round pieces of rigid vinyl (wall protectors) to cover the jet holes. wondering which glue should I use? I could probably secure it using screws too, and seal the edge using water proof calking. Thanks a lot.
#33
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2007 GL450
Thanks for the info. about different glues for different plastic.
btw., I'm trying to seal off the water jet holes of a bathtub, since they are not working and not needed. The bathtub is made of thick creamy color plastic (is it acrylic?) and I'm planning to glue round pieces of rigid vinyl (wall protectors) to cover the jet holes. wondering which glue should I use? I could probably secure it using screws too, and seal the edge using water proof calking. Thanks a lot.
btw., I'm trying to seal off the water jet holes of a bathtub, since they are not working and not needed. The bathtub is made of thick creamy color plastic (is it acrylic?) and I'm planning to glue round pieces of rigid vinyl (wall protectors) to cover the jet holes. wondering which glue should I use? I could probably secure it using screws too, and seal the edge using water proof calking. Thanks a lot.
You have to be scientific about it. Start with a hypothesis, e.g. "it is acrylic", and test that hypothesis.
I bet a far easier and quicker method would be to mechanically fasten, e.g. with screws, and seal with silicone caulk. Spa manufacturers may sell appropriate cover plates. A plate with a rubber gasket wouldn't be bad.
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texas008 (03-27-2024)
#34
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People paint acrylic bathtubs with epoxy paint - so you could certainly use marine (this is my field), 2-part epoxy to do it. Although getting that in small amounts is hard to do so it would be expensive. Polyester resin would be cheaper and work just as well. But you could really use just about anything halfway decent. Something like PC-11, 3M5200 or even some two-part epoxies available at HD/Lowe's. This will also stick to rigid vinyl pieces. Lightly sand both contact surfaces. Completely/fully tape the piece in it's spot - then use a razor knife and trace the perimeter to remove the piece. You know have a perfect "squish out" area to avoid a mess.
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#35
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Oh boy. Gluing unknown plastic is a nightmare; gluing two different plastics is waking up screaming and soaked with sweat.
You have to be scientific about it. Start with a hypothesis, e.g. "it is acrylic", and test that hypothesis.
I bet a far easier and quicker method would be to mechanically fasten, e.g. with screws, and seal with silicone caulk. Spa manufacturers may sell appropriate cover plates. A plate with a rubber gasket wouldn't be bad.
You have to be scientific about it. Start with a hypothesis, e.g. "it is acrylic", and test that hypothesis.
I bet a far easier and quicker method would be to mechanically fasten, e.g. with screws, and seal with silicone caulk. Spa manufacturers may sell appropriate cover plates. A plate with a rubber gasket wouldn't be bad.
available at Amazon for $14. will also use it to repair broken front grill.
seems very promising, will give it a try.
#37
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Just found out a video made by Scotty Kilmer on how to glue broken plastic tabs on car parts. He used "K Tool international 90002 Q Bond Ultra Strong Adhesive Kit for Garages, Repair Shops and DIY, repair hard plastics/PVC/Metals"
available at Amazon for $14. will also use it to repair broken front grill.
seems very promising, will give it a try.
available at Amazon for $14. will also use it to repair broken front grill.
seems very promising, will give it a try.
It's not as strong as what I mentioned, but may work just fine on the type of plastic you have.
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texas008 (05-24-2024)
#38
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Got the handles fixed, with a very simple solution (1-inch wood screws).
The black plastic, although broken at certain locations (probably due to fatigue loading), is actually pretty strong and can hold tightly wood screws.
I went ahead strengthened all other three door handles, two of which have already developed cracks at the same location.
The black plastic, although broken at certain locations (probably due to fatigue loading), is actually pretty strong and can hold tightly wood screws.
I went ahead strengthened all other three door handles, two of which have already developed cracks at the same location.
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eric_in_sd (06-12-2024)
#39
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Got the handles fixed, with a very simple solution (1-inch wood screws).
The black plastic, although broken at certain locations (probably due to fatigue loading), is actually pretty strong and can hold tightly wood screws.
I went ahead strengthened all other three door handles, two of which have already developed cracks at the same location.
The black plastic, although broken at certain locations (probably due to fatigue loading), is actually pretty strong and can hold tightly wood screws.
I went ahead strengthened all other three door handles, two of which have already developed cracks at the same location.
#40
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Thread Starter
Over the years that pull bars gradually became loose and squeaky.
Their structural strength comes only from these black plastic bars, which developed cracks due to repeated loading.
I'm surprised that I'm the only one reporting this issue on GL450.
Their structural strength comes only from these black plastic bars, which developed cracks due to repeated loading.
I'm surprised that I'm the only one reporting this issue on GL450.