Anyone upgrade their Audio System, Non-HK?
Super Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 963
Likes: 122
From: Illinois
2014 Mercedes-Benz GL63 AMG
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 1
Likes: 1
GL450
Have you done anything yet S1000RR? I am working on adding a sub right now for my 2013 GL450 with a base system (no HK, no B&O). Details below for whoever wants to do this in the future.
Plans:
1.) Power.
The battery is located under the passenger front seat, the positive terminal can be accessed by moving the seat to the forward position and removing the plastic cover. A better place to tap into would be under the driver's side 2nd row seat. There is a fuse panel with a 2Ga input cable and metric nut you can easily break loose to tag power to. Checking the fuze panel, I don't see that the 2Ga will have any issue with amperage vs. resistance and heat tagging power at this location.
For the ground, it will depend on where you place you amp, there are ground points every where in this car. You can also add one wherever you like, but be sure to anchor it with multiple screws, use sandpaper to prep the surface metal-metal contact. Check what is on the other side of where your screws are going before you put the screw through the gas tank/break line. Use electrolytic paste between the actual metal to metal surface. and if seal it with silicon if the location has any chance of water seepage.
2.) Remote wire.
There are a million options here, but most amplifiers manufactured recently will turn on when they sense voltage on the RCAs. If you want to run a remote wire, I would personally plan on using a LOC (line out converter) that has one. Remote wires pull very little current, but it would be a good idea to fuse and relay a remote wire tagged off of a random wire in the car. Oh yeah... and there is an airbag for your knees located just under the steering wheel. Don't probe the wire or tag to them, that's a bad idea if you prefer company of living beings.
3.) RCA inputs for your new amp.
So...this is where it gets tricky. You will need a LOC as mentioned above. Let's stop and think for a minute. The factory "bass" speakers in the doors are very small. If the stock deck did not "turn down" the bass when you turn up the volume, it would ruin the speakers. To handle this, the stock deck turns down the bass as you turn up the volume. Why do you care?
You need a LOC that will flatten the bass (i.e. has an internal EQ and gain control.) You have three options, RF (not my favorite), JL Audio Cleansweep (if you can find one), or an AudioControl LC2 (my pick). At this point, you have visited Ebay and Amazon and realized you can buy LOCs for $20 and the ones above are all about $80 and above. You wouldn't put $150 tires on your $75k GL would you? Don't cheap out on the LOC, it is an important piece.
4.) Location of the Sub/Box.
You could always have a sub box floating around in the back, there is plenty of room for a good sized box, but I like the factory feel and space.
I will be attempting to build a fiberglass that fits into the space where the medical kit is by the passenger tail light. The stock HK might have also used this space? The panel removes with a bit of brute-force. Cram your fingers in the small gap at the top of the panel, push down and pull. There is a really tight clip at the top (doesn't break easily, I have removed/reinserted the panel a few times and its still tight.) There is also a panel on the other side, but behind that panel is the location of the HVAC for the rear passengers.
The dimensions give you about 13"H x 11"W x 5.6"D depending on how you want to setup the mounting surface for the sub.
You can easily fit a 10" sub in this space without much effort. If you do fiberglass like me, you could potentially put a 12 in. I want SPL, so I am going with a sub that has a deeper magnet. If you do this, you might need to angle the sub a few degrees up to be sure the magnet clears the tailgate control module. You could also relocate the module, the wires have a lot of slack and there is space to move it out of the way properly.
5.) Amp location.
My goal was to put the amp under the driver seat and use a Alpine PDX, or other small form, high wattage amp. However, after sitting in the 2nd row driver side with size 12 shoes, whoever is there will be kicking the amp. You also have 2 lower passenger air vents that come out which will be blocked by the amp. Lastly, height issues with the bottom of the seat mechanics. If you don't care, you have about 11.5 inches in width, 6.5 inches in depth, and 2 inches in height safely.
For me, I am going to use the outside of the driver-side removable panel behind the tail lights. There is room to run the wire behind it and it will be minimally invasive to space in the back. Lastly, with the 3rd row seats up, it is hard to see that there is an amp located there, so security and peace of mind is there.
6.) The box.
Fiberglass != fun for most people. I plan on building a blank with foam first to be sure I can slide the sub-filled box into the space without a lot of swearing involved. This involves a heavy-duty bag and 2 part foam (if you do this, test the bag first...it can melt under chemical or heat with the foam mix.) Place the bag in the space behind the panel and make a bottom-half blank first by holding the bag with pressure in the bottom of the space. Let the foam expand in the bag like a balloon. When the foam hardens, pull it out, trim/sand/fit to perfection. Cut a flat top on it, place it in the hole and run the same bag process for the top. Again, trim/sand/fit. What you are looking for is the ability to connect to top and bottom halves together and the ability to slide the entire piece in and out of the gap the panel fit in. Once that is done, build a MDF front for the speaker to mount to and fit that to the foam blank. You now have a basic fit for the box, tweak as desired. Don't forget to figure out a way to screw the box into the car so it doesn't become a projectile in an accident.
7.) Unknowns
a. I want to cover the fiberglass in carpet that closely matches the stock beige color. If I can't find an exact match, I might also attempt to match the beige MBtex. If all else fails... something black.
b. I figured out how to get the stock deck out and I believe I have the stock wiring down for the LOC. I will need to spend a night with a multi-meter and some luck to be sure this is where I will tag the leads for the LOC. If my luck runs out, then it will be figuring out the speaker wires headed into the front doors and tagging them there.
c. I am not 100% sure on the exact way to build the fiberglass enclosure to get it in and out without much fuss. This is going to be the largest challenge.
8.) Gear.
Mileage may vary...a lot... here is mine:
Sub: JL Audio 10w6v3 (SPL monster)
Amp: JL Audio XD600/1v2
LOC: AudioControl LC2
RCAs: JL Audio XB-BLUAIC2-18
Power Wire: KnuKonceptz 4Ga, 50A mini-fuse+holder.
Speaker Wire: KnuKonceptz 10Ga
Pics or it didn't happen OP! I already have pictures of how to get the stock radio out and was surprised to say it took only 2 minutes to figure out. Stage 1 will be to get the LOC installed and wires run. I will post pictures of that stage, pin-outs, where I had to tag the wires and shots of how to remove all the panels involved. Hopefully...soonish (Winter 2016).
Stage 2 will be the fiberglass box. Lots of pictures for this and maybe I save you some time and sell the box or copy of the blank.
Stage 3 will be the final install of the amp and hooking it all up.
Stay tuned... OP WILL deliver success or failure.
Plans:
1.) Power.
The battery is located under the passenger front seat, the positive terminal can be accessed by moving the seat to the forward position and removing the plastic cover. A better place to tap into would be under the driver's side 2nd row seat. There is a fuse panel with a 2Ga input cable and metric nut you can easily break loose to tag power to. Checking the fuze panel, I don't see that the 2Ga will have any issue with amperage vs. resistance and heat tagging power at this location.
For the ground, it will depend on where you place you amp, there are ground points every where in this car. You can also add one wherever you like, but be sure to anchor it with multiple screws, use sandpaper to prep the surface metal-metal contact. Check what is on the other side of where your screws are going before you put the screw through the gas tank/break line. Use electrolytic paste between the actual metal to metal surface. and if seal it with silicon if the location has any chance of water seepage.
2.) Remote wire.
There are a million options here, but most amplifiers manufactured recently will turn on when they sense voltage on the RCAs. If you want to run a remote wire, I would personally plan on using a LOC (line out converter) that has one. Remote wires pull very little current, but it would be a good idea to fuse and relay a remote wire tagged off of a random wire in the car. Oh yeah... and there is an airbag for your knees located just under the steering wheel. Don't probe the wire or tag to them, that's a bad idea if you prefer company of living beings.
3.) RCA inputs for your new amp.
So...this is where it gets tricky. You will need a LOC as mentioned above. Let's stop and think for a minute. The factory "bass" speakers in the doors are very small. If the stock deck did not "turn down" the bass when you turn up the volume, it would ruin the speakers. To handle this, the stock deck turns down the bass as you turn up the volume. Why do you care?
You need a LOC that will flatten the bass (i.e. has an internal EQ and gain control.) You have three options, RF (not my favorite), JL Audio Cleansweep (if you can find one), or an AudioControl LC2 (my pick). At this point, you have visited Ebay and Amazon and realized you can buy LOCs for $20 and the ones above are all about $80 and above. You wouldn't put $150 tires on your $75k GL would you? Don't cheap out on the LOC, it is an important piece.
4.) Location of the Sub/Box.
You could always have a sub box floating around in the back, there is plenty of room for a good sized box, but I like the factory feel and space.
I will be attempting to build a fiberglass that fits into the space where the medical kit is by the passenger tail light. The stock HK might have also used this space? The panel removes with a bit of brute-force. Cram your fingers in the small gap at the top of the panel, push down and pull. There is a really tight clip at the top (doesn't break easily, I have removed/reinserted the panel a few times and its still tight.) There is also a panel on the other side, but behind that panel is the location of the HVAC for the rear passengers.
The dimensions give you about 13"H x 11"W x 5.6"D depending on how you want to setup the mounting surface for the sub.
You can easily fit a 10" sub in this space without much effort. If you do fiberglass like me, you could potentially put a 12 in. I want SPL, so I am going with a sub that has a deeper magnet. If you do this, you might need to angle the sub a few degrees up to be sure the magnet clears the tailgate control module. You could also relocate the module, the wires have a lot of slack and there is space to move it out of the way properly.
5.) Amp location.
My goal was to put the amp under the driver seat and use a Alpine PDX, or other small form, high wattage amp. However, after sitting in the 2nd row driver side with size 12 shoes, whoever is there will be kicking the amp. You also have 2 lower passenger air vents that come out which will be blocked by the amp. Lastly, height issues with the bottom of the seat mechanics. If you don't care, you have about 11.5 inches in width, 6.5 inches in depth, and 2 inches in height safely.
For me, I am going to use the outside of the driver-side removable panel behind the tail lights. There is room to run the wire behind it and it will be minimally invasive to space in the back. Lastly, with the 3rd row seats up, it is hard to see that there is an amp located there, so security and peace of mind is there.
6.) The box.
Fiberglass != fun for most people. I plan on building a blank with foam first to be sure I can slide the sub-filled box into the space without a lot of swearing involved. This involves a heavy-duty bag and 2 part foam (if you do this, test the bag first...it can melt under chemical or heat with the foam mix.) Place the bag in the space behind the panel and make a bottom-half blank first by holding the bag with pressure in the bottom of the space. Let the foam expand in the bag like a balloon. When the foam hardens, pull it out, trim/sand/fit to perfection. Cut a flat top on it, place it in the hole and run the same bag process for the top. Again, trim/sand/fit. What you are looking for is the ability to connect to top and bottom halves together and the ability to slide the entire piece in and out of the gap the panel fit in. Once that is done, build a MDF front for the speaker to mount to and fit that to the foam blank. You now have a basic fit for the box, tweak as desired. Don't forget to figure out a way to screw the box into the car so it doesn't become a projectile in an accident.
7.) Unknowns
a. I want to cover the fiberglass in carpet that closely matches the stock beige color. If I can't find an exact match, I might also attempt to match the beige MBtex. If all else fails... something black.
b. I figured out how to get the stock deck out and I believe I have the stock wiring down for the LOC. I will need to spend a night with a multi-meter and some luck to be sure this is where I will tag the leads for the LOC. If my luck runs out, then it will be figuring out the speaker wires headed into the front doors and tagging them there.
c. I am not 100% sure on the exact way to build the fiberglass enclosure to get it in and out without much fuss. This is going to be the largest challenge.
8.) Gear.
Mileage may vary...a lot... here is mine:
Sub: JL Audio 10w6v3 (SPL monster)
Amp: JL Audio XD600/1v2
LOC: AudioControl LC2
RCAs: JL Audio XB-BLUAIC2-18
Power Wire: KnuKonceptz 4Ga, 50A mini-fuse+holder.
Speaker Wire: KnuKonceptz 10Ga
Pics or it didn't happen OP! I already have pictures of how to get the stock radio out and was surprised to say it took only 2 minutes to figure out. Stage 1 will be to get the LOC installed and wires run. I will post pictures of that stage, pin-outs, where I had to tag the wires and shots of how to remove all the panels involved. Hopefully...soonish (Winter 2016).
Stage 2 will be the fiberglass box. Lots of pictures for this and maybe I save you some time and sell the box or copy of the blank.
Stage 3 will be the final install of the amp and hooking it all up.
Stay tuned... OP WILL deliver success or failure.
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 10
Likes: 0
GL450, GLC300
In extreme cold weather, my GL450 had static noise coming out of the driver and 2nd row speakers, probably due to soldering shrinkage. So I thought about changing my LOGIC7 to a more serious sound system and had my car at the best custom auto shop around CT, but they told me since everything is digital when it comes to the GL sound system these days, you can only replace the entire system, amp and controller included), then you will have trouble connecting to the COMAND system. You basically need to replace and reprogram the entire system. Cost wise, we are talking about 15K and marginal success rate. So I'm parking my GL in the garage now if the weather dips below 40.
