GL Class (X166) 2013-2015 after facelift became GLS (X166)

Oil cooler addition for M278 engines (like M157)

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Old Sep 14, 2024 | 01:33 PM
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Oil cooler addition for M278 engines (like M157)

Helly my dear friends.

As a devout follower of Master Tasos channel, and as many of you already know, I am interested in adding an oil cooler to my M278 engine. I haven't inspected the cylinder walls to check for scoring, it may very well be too late but I figure late is better than never on doing something to upgrade this wonderfully awful design Benz made.

In Tasos' videos he mentions locations for the oil cooler to either be upfront by the bumper (which I believe requires swapping the bumper from an ML or GLE, that is compatible and has enough space) - or moving the reservoir for the windshield wiper fluid in the back (or getting a different one, forget which models) and putting the oil cooler in its place.

I did a search on this subforum, but maybe someone can point to my lack of broader search skills because there has to be a thread on here about people who have done the procedure but I can't find it yet. Any opinions or resources would be welcome. Thanks!

To clarify, I'm not referring to 2781880201 - he calls the "Engine oil heat exchanger" - but most parts catalogs call the oil cooler. I'm talking about something along the lines of this https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...c&SVSVSI=12326


Last edited by RollTideW163; Sep 14, 2024 at 01:54 PM.
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Old Sep 14, 2024 | 03:07 PM
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Does he say that adding an oil cooler will somehow help the scoring issue?
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Old Sep 14, 2024 | 04:25 PM
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I'm guessing that as oil temperature increases, the viscosity decreases and the oil cooler helps prevent that and hence prevents the scoring issue on the aluminum block. I'm also guessing the m157 don't have the same issue (or as bad) due to the presence of the cooler. Ultrakla$$ic made a thread in the w221 forum in June, that I found after posting this asking the same question but there were also not a lot of answers there.

I'll post what I uncover.
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Old Sep 14, 2024 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by BlownV8
Does he say that adding an oil cooler will somehow help the scoring issue?
This guy's channel is also a real gem, he gives a good explanation here
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Old Sep 14, 2024 | 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by RollTideW163
I'm guessing that as oil temperature increases, the viscosity decreases and the oil cooler helps prevent that and hence prevents the scoring issue on the aluminum block. I'm also guessing the m157 don't have the same issue (or as bad) due to the presence of the cooler. Ultrakla$$ic made a thread in the w221 forum in June, that I found after posting this asking the same question but there were also not a lot of answers there.

I'll post what I uncover.
No, the M157's do suffer from the same scoring issue.
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Old Sep 15, 2024 | 12:19 PM
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Originally Posted by BlownV8
No, the M157's do suffer from the same scoring issue.
Would you say that the presence of the oil cooler on the M157s helps and the scoring issue happens at later mileage?
Would changing the sleeves to steel be the primary solution here?

I'm still going through the thread you contributed to on the rebuild. Thanks in advance.
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Old Sep 15, 2024 | 01:21 PM
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Originally Posted by RollTideW163
Would you say that the presence of the oil cooler on the M157s helps and the scoring issue happens at later mileage?
Would changing the sleeves to steel be the primary solution here?

I'm still going through the thread you contributed to on the rebuild. Thanks in advance.
No, they are unrelated. The issue is the crappy coating they used on the cylinder walls along with forced induction. If you really want to fix the engine, have it sleeved since nothing you can do will prevent it unless you drive like a granny and never dip into the forced induction.
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Old Sep 16, 2024 | 12:51 PM
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Changing oil at 3500 mile intervals will push longevity along for this engine, perhaps in combination with oil cooler. I can literally hear when my oil needs to be changed as the tone and frequency of the running motor changes. No oil cooler addition, though 2 trailers towed quite a bit.

Bigger return on investment IMO would be changing out entire cooling system (see your thread on the same as I responded to that on more detail) to proactively prevent leaks on hoses, pipes, the radiator itself (especially the seam at right side attachment point to front bezel).

I plan on keeping my 2014 GL 550 (off road package, designo interior, distronic, quiet, seats 7, lovely brown paint) so I’ll be rebuilding the engine when she lets go. Next step is rebuilding entire suspension system to rid the gremlins, clunks, and bumps. Granny so far solid though change fluid 1/yr.

Where else can you buy a vehicle that tows 7500-8k lb, has air ride suspension with 3 settings, off roads with ease, and looks pretty good while doing it? An equivalent package now is somewhere around $85k-$120k. I’ve read up on members efforts here along the same vein of thought and we have talented members so I’ll be enlisting their time as well. My .02
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