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Is there anyway that the front cigarette lighter can be made useable for a radar detector that needs a 12v cigarette lighter? This is the second time after the dealer replaced it and it blew immediately.
Last edited by asmedbeats; 07-09-2018 at 07:28 PM.
Is there anyway that the front cigarette lighter can be made useable for a radar detector that needs a 12v cigarette lighter? This is the second time after the dealer replaced it and it blew immediately.
Happened to new when I plugged in a phone . I was told that it wasn't designed for that. I was getting ready to try it again. Thanks for the post! Saved me the trouble of blowing another fuse
I find it ridiculousn that this outlet
is basically worthless
Happened to new when I plugged in a phone . I was told that it wasn't designed for that. I was getting ready to try it again. Thanks for the post! Saved me the trouble of blowing another fuse
I find it ridiculousn that this outlet
is basically worthless
Yeah, if it's not for charging a phone then what IS it for?
I've been using it to charge my phone while streaming audio for several months now and have never had a problem.
i used it a few time to charge phone no issue. then one time plugged in phone and popped fuse\
dealer said it was specifically for lighter only as amperage was too low for phone. replaced fuse for free thankfully
i used it a few time to charge phone no issue. then one time plugged in phone and popped fuse\
dealer said it was specifically for lighter only as amperage was too low for phone. replaced fuse for free thankfully
Would a higher amperage fuse make a difference? Would that be ok to do?
Would a higher amperage fuse make a difference? Would that be ok to do?
NO. Never install a higher amperage fuse than the original - the wiring isn't designed for it.
I am quite sure the cigarette lighter draws much more than a phone charger, and the charger should work properly. The likely cause is some sort of short as the charger is inserted or removed. Perhaps the lighter socket has a design that allows the charger to short between the terminals if it is twisted just the right way.
I use the USB outlet for charging so I don't really have any experience with the problem.
Here’s the fuse layout someone posted in 3/17. It’s the fuse box located under the rear cargo ar a floor. It shows Fuse #446 is the front cigarette lighter and is 15 Amp, which makes sense for a heating coil for a cigarette lighter. I have a Scosche dual port USB charger plugged in there. Input on it is rated at 2.9A and each port has 2.4A output. There is no way 4.8A is going to blow a 15A circuit/fuse. I have used it many times for one phone AND two phones and it has never blown. If it’s blowing fuses something else is the problem. It’s laughable that MB would say “it’s not intended for that use”. A circuit like that just supplies power at the stated Amps. It doesn’t care what is plugged into it.
Originally Posted by madelko
Mine were located in the fuse box, folded paper, very basic but probably what you're looking for. This was in the GLC 300 rear floor compartment.
Found it. Funny thing is it is mentioned in the manual, but was never expecting a piece of paper. Usually there used to be a sticker by the box... but looking at the sheet... it is understandable with so many fuses.
Is there anyway that the front cigarette lighter can be made useable for a radar detector that needs a 12v cigarette lighter? This is the second time after the dealer replaced it and it blew immediately.
I just noticed you’re trying to run a radar detector more so than a phone. You should look at on the power requirements of your radar detector, probably printed on it somewhere. I can’t imagine it’s more than 15A, but if it is then there’s your problem. If it says 4 or 5A I would say the problem is something else. The mfg knows people are going to be plugging their product into a cigarette lighter probably and would not design it to use more amps than the lighter socket would supply. I mentioned on another thread that I installed heaters in both front seats in a Prius (each rated at 5 or 6 amps I think), and they never blew the 15A fuse on that circuit.
I just noticed you’re trying to run a radar detector more so than a phone. You should look at on the power requirements of your radar detector, probably printed on it somewhere. I can’t imagine it’s more than 15A, but if it is then there’s your problem. If it says 4 or 5A I would say the problem is something else. The mfg knows people are going to be plugging their product into a cigarette lighter probably and would not design it to use more amps than the lighter socket would supply. I mentioned on another thread that I installed heaters in both front seats in a Prius (each rated at 5 or 6 amps I think), and they never blew the 15A fuse on that circuit.
Hope you can figure your problem out.
It's a Uniden R3 and from what my understanding is it barely goes about 1amp. The fuse in the cord itself is 2amps I believe.
NO. Never install a higher amperage fuse than the original - the wiring isn't designed for it.
I am quite sure the cigarette lighter draws much more than a phone charger, and the charger should work properly. The likely cause is some sort of short as the charger is inserted or removed. Perhaps the lighter socket has a design that allows the charger to short between the terminals if it is twisted just the right way.
I use the USB outlet for charging so I don't really have any experience with the problem.
+1 That you should never replace a fuse with a higher amp fuse.
But I did think I’d mention, x253 that unless the GLC’s USB ports output 2.1-2.1A that I’ve read some newer, particularly luxury cars do, you might want to try a low profile USB plug like the Scosche dual 2.4 plug I mentioned. It’s rated to charge iPads which require more amps and it will charge your phone FAST! And no, it will not “overcharge” your phone. The phone controls the charge it accepts.
Even on short trips around town, it’s a lifesaver if you happen to run out and your phone charge is low.
It's a Uniden R3 and from what my understanding is it barely goes about 1amp. The fuse in the cord itself is 2amps I believe.
Well, there you go. The unit uses 1A and the fuse is 2A. No way the cigarette lighter shouldn’t power it fine. And just so you know, the 15A circuit means a MAX of 15A is AVAILABLE! Your unit is only calling for 1A so if it’s blowing fuses, something else is going on. I guess the plug for your unit could be shorting out and someone who has a multimeter can check the plug out to see if it’s bad. Maybe the mfg will send you a new cord.
Actually, if you wanted to go to the trouble, you could pick up a 12V plug at a auto parts store and change it out yourself.
Well, there you go. The unit uses 1A and the fuse is 2A. No way the cigarette lighter shouldn’t power it fine. And just so you know, the 15A circuit means a MAX of 15A is AVAILABLE! Your unit is only calling for 1A so if it’s blowing fuses, something else is going on. I guess the plug for your unit could be shorting out and someone who has a multimeter can check the plug out to see if it’s bad. Maybe the mfg will send you a new cord.
Actually, if you wanted to go to the trouble, you could pick up a 12V plug at a auto parts store and change it out yourself.
I know its not the plug because it does work if I plug it into the second row 12v socket.
I know its not the plug because it does work if I plug it into the second row 12v socket.
Then I’d get the dealer to troubleshoot/change out the plug in the front. Sounds like maybe that’s the culprit. If not the amps (it’s not) and not the plug on your device (you proved it’s ok), then there must be a problem with that front plug.
Then I’d get the dealer to troubleshoot/change out the plug in the front. Sounds like maybe that’s the culprit. If not the amps (it’s not) and not the plug on your device (you proved it’s ok), then there must be a problem with that front plug.
07-09-2018, 06:22 PM
