The issue is what exactly is the warranty. Depending on what you read or who you ask, it’s all different.

 

That seems normal since there are no out of warranty situations yet. So the whole point is moot.

Making a call to a dealer or MBUSA will not yield any usable info for that reason. Perhaps you can research this with MBUSA corporate (not a call center) and report back to the community. I am certain everyone here would appreciate that information.

 

Who in Mercedes corporate should I ask? I don’t have contacts beyond the call center. Do you? The fact of the matter is that no one at Mercedes actually thought about this to bother to document it. It’s documented at BMW and Tesla. I haven’t checked Audi yet, but it wouldn’t surprise me it is. Leaves a lot to be desired. Sloppy.

 

Well, folks, chalk my name up on the board for this issue as of today - at least I think, since the error message references the 12V and to 'stop immediately'. App says the battery is fine. Luckily the no-start manifested BEFORE we left the house.

Factory order delivered in June of 2021, 8,076 km (5,018 miles) since then. Super low mileage for 18 months old, I know, but only a little less mileage on an annual basis than my prior Lincolns due to my post-covid work-from-home situation. Fairweather Sunday driver (no snow/salt and I don't think I've ever been caught out in more than spitting rain) so mostly fairly long trips. When I know I'm not going to be driving it for a period of time, I put the CTek on it. As was the case today, although it's only been a couple of weeks since it was out. CTek showed all lights - so on maintenance mode.

I'll call the dealership tomorrow, but I assume what I'm in for is to have it dragged out of my garage and onto a flat bed, for the 1.5 hour journey to their shop. It was all shined up and ready for its overwintering, so I'm kind of bummed. I haven't had a vehicle breakdown since my 1984 Jeep Wagoneer (touch wood).

Will probably have a heart-to-heart with the sales manager too, to see if he wants to take it off my hands. The Mercedes experience hasn't been what I was expecting, especially the service experience - definitely worse than Lincoln (aka Ford). Rude service writer, no protection for the seats, steering wheel or floor, smudges on my cappuccino interior and dirty boot prints on the floor mat upon return. Not even a granola bar to be had while I sat in the showroom and listened to the aforementioned service writer attempting to roll over an elderly gentleman for $3,000 worth of needless service on his relatively new car. Build quality no better than my disaster of a 2020 Aviator, but maybe one less interior squeak and rattle - and that's before they open up the interior to do the battery. Fun times ahead!

 

Sorry to hear. 3 years into this and no preemptive solution from the manufacturer would be frustrating. The experience you described in the last paragraph has been written about by many on this site - that the experience fell short of expectations. This has also been my experience.

 

Yes, I think it's three now.
Has the 48v failed on your W166? Hope not.🙂

Not to dismiss the concern (it's in my mind too), but instances seem to grow with each telling.

 

Wonder if it would be worthwhile to assemble some advice for those newly encountering this issue - ie "What to do if your 48v battery dies?"

I'm thinking things like: (below bullets are just ideas, not intended to be comprehensive or final)

1) Diagnosis: error codes thrown relate to 48v or 12v battery.
2) Boosting: currently not possible to boost a depleted 48v battery.
3) Towing: to get it into neutral (and avoid using skates that drivers rarely carry), ensure you do not deplete your 12v battery. Then, put ignition into accessory, force brake pedal to floor, and attempt to use stalk to shift into neutral.
4) Repairs: Dealership will likely take a _______ days to diagnose the issue and communicate with Germany or Country engineering to understand and log error codes. Repair requires full replacement of ______. Part number changes?
5) Warranty: (not looking to pick a scab, but gathering some of the info might be handy)
6) Recurrence: Does a repair improve the odds that a future repair wouldn't be necessary?

 

It would be hard to cover all the variables, but maybe worth a shot.
Regarding "Boosting" a 48v battery - if you mean Jump Start, you're correct. But you can charge the 48v battery through the 12v charge connectors, through the onboard 12-48v DC to DC converter.

 

Charcharius;8680413]Wonder if it would be worthwhile to assemble some advice for those newly encountering this issue - ie "What to do if your 48v battery dies?"

I'm thinking things like: (below bullets are just ideas, not intended to be comprehensive or final)

1) Diagnosis: error codes thrown relate to 48v or 12v battery.
There is a procedure to diagnose the battery failure that has probably changed from 18 months ago. Error codes were not involved then!

2) Boosting: currently not possible to boost a depleted 48v battery.
I believe the battery can be charged overnight but not boosted. The past issue “reportedly’ was not a low battery but a failure in the battery controller. It’s not likely discharged just sitting overnight unless there was some type of battery drain…nothing like that reported in the past.

3) Towing: to get it into neutral (and avoid using skates that drivers rarely carry), ensure you do not deplete your 12v battery. Then, put ignition into accessory, force brake pedal to floor, and attempt to use stalk to shift into neutral.
This type of process reportedly worked, sometimes requiring multiple attempts. Someone had to remain in the vehicle, opening the door set the parking brake again.

4) Repairs: Dealership will likely take a _______ days to diagnose the issue and communicate with Germany or Country engineering to understand and log error codes. Repair requires full replacement of ______. Part number changes?

Here’s what I know about #4-2 hours to diagnose.
New Battery prone to failure, unknown intro and last used dates but estimated intro was late Q3 2021 last used early Q2 2022. it’s possible that because of shortages that this battery was used intermittently at later dates.
48V Battery PN-000-982-68-14 was removed from my early October build of a GLE53 that failed…spec was 1kw vs .9 kw prior Gen.

New 48V replacement Battery-PN 000-982-67-14 Because the replacement battery PN is lower than the failed battery we speculate that it was also the trouble free battery from early 2019 until late Q3 2020 production. Once again it’s believed that the battery itself didn’t fail but the controller.

There will always be a few component failures but the higher number during the production cycle mentioned points to an abnormal number and at the time there was little information at the Dealer level. Mercedes may yet have a new Gen battery and may have updated the firmware to resolve the “Park” issue. Maybe someone can post info from his work order like I did in May 2021.

 

Couldn't you also temporarily "reset" the system by disconnecting the battery and reconnecting it? A temporary fix for if you get stranded.

Not sure if I'm getting my threads and info mixed up.

 

Yes on mixed up...that worked disconnecting the ground on the 12 volt battery in some instances.
There is no easy access to the 48 volt battery, it's under the rear seat on the passenger side. As it stands now anything to do with a higher voltage battery is best left to a Mercedes technician. Even a replacement 48 volt battery requires a process of adapting the new battery to the vehicle by a Mercedes Tech. It's not a simple drop in like the AGM/NMH 12 volts were. Even 12 volt Lithium batteries on a Porsche have a more complex system.
The 48 volt system has a complicated "computer type" electronic controller for the battery to control the functions between the battery state of charge and interface with the car...at least that's what it appears to be. This is all new so "what does what" is a guess at this point.
Here's a short YouTube video showing how they are made. Looks like a bunch of large AA batteries in a cage....Oops that doesnt show the individual cells I mentioned but you can get a glimpse of a controller.

 

Just had my car in for the rear window trim recall. They also performed cellphone charging cradle software update (SA said it was a recall).

While I was there, I asked the SA to check for the software update for my 48V system and he said I had the latest version to my surprise. It was never updated before so I'm not sure how my 2021 GLE has the latest version?!

 

Been over a year but pretty sure I connected the car to my WiFi when I brought it home for auto updates. My Ford Raptor does the same for sure. I don't know if the 48v battery would/could be updated that way or not.

 

DRAFT: this post will get updated frequently today!
Proposed Sticky - 48v Battery Dead? Here are your next steps!


How do I know if the 48v battery is the issue? What does it do, anyway?
The 48v battery is part of a new architecture that allows for additional power for car systems including the integrated starter/alternator, the turbo chargers, the later pump, the AC compressor, and suspension components. It mitigates belt-driven losses, smooths the start/stop function, allows for glide capability, and increases power the consumers listed above. (Source: Motor Authority)

Your Mercedes cannot start without this 48v battery. If your battery dies, you may see an error like this when trying to start the vehicle.
(Source: @ArchHist99 )


So, my 48v battery is likely the cause. Can't I just boost it?
Unlike issues with 12 batteries that may be too drained to start a vehicle, your 48v battery may not be depleted. Rather, the battery controller itself may not be allowing the battery to function for safety, heat, paint covered connections, or some other factor - whatever the reason, the 48v battery will not function. (Source: @Ron.s @toban ) Boosting this higher voltage system may not be effective, poses additional health and safety risk, and an assistance vehicle may not be properly equipped.


Okay, so my GLE won't move. How do I get it back to a dealer/mechanic for service?
Contacting MB Roadside Assistance will help ensure a properly equipped flat-bad truck is sent to assist you.
(Source: @Ron.s )
A GLE being dragged onto a flatbed truck using tire skates.

In order to prevent potential driveline damage, it is best to get your MB into neutral. However, without the 48v function, it requires a unique procedure: put ignition into accessory, force brake pedal to floor, and attempt to use stalk to shift into neutral (make sure you don't roll away!). MBWorld members have used this method to varying success. Several attempts may be required. Tire skates will also work, but the tow truck may not have them, or they may not be wide enough for your rear tires.

What can I expect at the Dealership?
Your dealership will have considerable experience with this failure, but may require a few hours (source: @Ron.s ) to a few days (source: @Charcharius ) to diagnose the issue and/or any contributing factors, log any data, and discuss any unique factors with Germany.

Part number for the 48v battery PN-000-982-68-14 has been part of a documented failure. (source: @Ron.s ). A replacement of PN 000-982-67-14 was then installed. Because the replacement battery PN is lower than the failed battery it is speculated that it was also the trouble free battery from early 2019 until late Q3 2020 production. (source @Ron.s ). Part numbers for the controller, etc. have not yet been recorded.

So, how does this affect my warranty? What about extended warranties? How much would this cost off warranty?
I'll carefully review in previous posts before updating this section. Alternatively, someone can take a shot at it!

 

^ I'll respond while I wait for the second tow truck to come and take my GLE to the dealer (roadside dispatcher sent a regular tow truck despite my recommendation to the contrary) but at least the first guy was able to push me out of my garage in anticipation of the flatbed's arrival - which was promised to be here a couple of hours ago, but anyway.

Get in, buckle the seatbelt, put the ignition in run, shift to N, release the parking brake. Have someone give you a hearty push.

EDIT to say that they sent a second regular tow truck, so I'm glad I well-documented the condition of the wheels and tires. Pretty heavy vehicle to be driving an hour and a half on dollies. And no steel for the magnetic lights to stick to.

 

What a pain, sorry to read about this. The silver lining is the car is under warranty so the only “cost” is your time, right? Thank goodness for warranty.

 

Yes, that is a true statement.

I am far less stressed about the situation today since I have been advised that I am comfortably ‘above water’ on this vehicle due to the market and the condition/mileage/options of my particular GLE, so if I’m not completely satisfied with the service experience this time, I will simply walk away with some cash in hand. Maybe go back to Lincoln (although I see they’ve been up to their old trick of de-contenting vehicles as the model years wear on) and try my luck with another Aviator. Or wait for the EQE SUV and shop around different dealers. First world problem but life’s too short…

 

May I ask what you were offered and what milage?

 

Last week my CarGurus buy bid was $87,000, 21,000 miles. Edmunds was $84,500. My 2021 53 stickered at $99,750.
I check every couple of months.
In August it was $78,000, heading back up. Last Spring it was $109,000.
Unfortunately all the extras I wanted don't help resale much.

 

If you were asking me, my numbers wouldn't likely be of much value to you. I am in Canada, so much different market and dollar value. My GLE is a 450 and was still right around $105K with PPM as I recall, before our 13% tax. Nearly loaded except for the 3D, E-ABC, tow package and 3rd row.

18 months old at this point, in factory condition with 5,000 miles on it. Perfect for their pre-owned lot. Autotrader is only showing two 2021 GLE 450s in all of Canada with under 10,000 km.

Still, the offer is quite a bit below what I paid for it, likely partly owing to depreciation and desired markup on their used side. Moral of my story is to never be in a position where I can't get rid of a crappy vehicle (not saying this one is, speaking generally here) at a moment's notice. Negative equity is insidious!

 

Thanks. You’re right, those values aren’t much of a value here down south of the border.

I’m big in the hole on mine based on a Carmax and dealer quote. If the opportunity presents itself to extricate myself from this thing relatively unscathed, I’ll certainly take that path. Although I have a feeling that resale values will be even worse in the future unfortunately. Right now I’ll just continue to save up the issues and go back to the dealer with my laundry list and count the days in shop. I am just fed up with going back to that place; it is worst than going to the dentist. Worst case, I’ll drive this bucket of bolts until warranty end and will abandon it no matter what. I wouldn’t drive this thing out of warranty if they paid me. Even the extended warranty is a false charade since it doesn’t cover one of the weak links in this dang thing.

 

I hear you. I think you're kind of lucky to have Carmax and the like - I don't think they're a thing up here, which means I am stuck working with my dealer.

One thing I've learned with Mercedes which was a shock to me after working with a small-town Lincoln/Ford vehicle for years is that Benz does not provide the premium experience I was expecting. Unlike others here, my closest dealership is about an hour and a half away from me, and the others are an hour or more further in either direction - so I'm pretty much stuck with the selling dealer unless I want to make a career out of this, especially since they will only tow to the closest dealer anyway.

I've come to realize that 'luxury' isn't all about the vehicle itself, the sales and service experience factor in significantly, which is something I previously took for granted. My former dealership, which I worked with for many years, treated me like a member of their family. Even though I live quite far from their operation, they wouldn't hesitate to drop a loaner for me at home or the office if I needed service - whether it was my Ford or my Lincoln. I'm sure they wouldn't make me 'book a ride' in the shuttle either, as they would probably just have sent someone to pick me up (although I've never been stranded until this week) or dropped off a loaner. Even when I was moving away from Lincoln to Mercedes, they came to the Mercedes dealership to pick up my Aviator and with a smile and handshake they thanked me for my business and hoped I'd consider them again in the future. I miss that.

In full disclosure, though, they weren't the best at resolving squeaks and rattles, and in most cases just made them worse! It's why I hesitate to bring the topic up with my GLE.

 

Yes, the experience isn’t anything to write home about, at least at my local dealer. However, fact of the matter is I just hate the inconvenience of having to go down there in the first place. I have better things to do with my time then waste a few hours driving and waiting around there. Hey, having to go down there once or maybe even twice within a few months of ownership is understandable, !@$! happens, but I’ve been there three times within five months and they haven’t fixed everything and new things keep popping up. It’s like salt in the wound: the issue and the inconvenience.

Yes, my car has many squeaks and rattles and it takes them days to fix even one. I think they have to drive around to reproduce it, then get approval from Mercedes to perform the work, then do the work. One rattle took three days to fix and a few more came up shortly after. I don’t know if they are related but man they are annoying. It makes this expensive-to-me-car feel like a cheap POS. This is poor build quality and speaks volumes about their crummy production line imo.

 

Bad dealer experiences sadly isnt isolated to this sector of the "luxury" market.
Aside from just pure profit, a consistent experience is why a lot of watch, jewelry, clothing, etc companies are moving to brand-owned boutiques.

 

Consistently poor MB dealer experience has been the norm at dealers I have visited. Porsche, BMW, VW, Honda, Toyota and Ford dealers have been far more enjoyable experiences. The “cheap” brands now offer coffee and snacks (MB dealers are out of stock on those things!), so that minor differentiator for MB dealers is now gone.