knhellesky

Anyone here have experience with this company/product?

http://www.computercut.com/main.php/...?make=Mercedes

A local shop here uses it. They said that they use to install 3M VentureShield but it was a PITA to install. He did say that the 3M is a better product though.

MKenM

I have heard that they do a decent job in protecting the front end of the vehicle. The problem is on light color cars the edges of the film protection shows dirt that is hard to remove because the adhesive used goes to the edge of the film covering and dirt sticks to it and you can't get it off after a while without affecting the film itself. In the end I think it depends on the roads you travel. Mine is 2 years old with no chips and I do a lot of highway driving. Just don't follow to close to the vehicle in front of you. Saves the front end and more importantly your windshield.

NYCGLK

Cost 1k to put it on. I seriously considered, but decided not to get it. Couple small chips are not seen unless you are hand washing the car. The line and lack of shine with clear bra is seen every time you get into the car.

knhellesky

Our local shop here charges $495 for the Deluxe package. This includes the bumpers, mirrors, front fenders and headlights.

grane

Where is local and who is the shop?

iewoals

Had the hood done on mine. Can't say that it came out perfect. But it is better than having tiny pock marks on the hood everywhere. Downsides, are as mentioned at certain angles it is readily apparent. And make sure they don't cut the film on your car. My installer told me it was to be pre-cut. Unfortunately, he still ended up trimming some from the front of the hood on the car, leaving two or three small nicks which I had to touch up.

I also had the mirrors done. Skipped the bumper and below. It's all plastic so it doesn't matter.

My main goal was to hopefully prevent rust on the hood during winter when they spread salt like it's free.

MBRedux

These films look great when new. But after a few years of long distance driving, the nicks they get trap dirt... looks worse than if it wasn't on. Also if your car is red, silver, gray, or blue, these films block UV rays which causes the unprotected paint to fade while keeping the shade of the paint under the film the same as almost new. If you ever decide on removing the film, the paint won't match.

knhellesky

I'm here in the heartland....Nebraska

Here's the place that does the installation.
http://www.cornhuskerautowash.com/services.php

knhellesky

Thanks. I figured that we'll get the hood protection at the least.

And Yes, they do a pre-cut (Computer Cut) of the film according to car. We have the AMG bumper so it will be different should we decide to go the Deluxe route.

Thanks for the input. There's a lot of pro's and con's but we're leaning towards getting it.

MBRedux

Black GLK's should have little to no issues with paint fade. Good luck!

clearbraj

I always recommend the small additional cost to have the film wrapped where ever possible.

The issue with dirt on the edge can be a few reasons
1. Partial hoods need to be dryed and cleaned after washing. Do not let the water evap on the hood edge or areas will the water builds up.
2. Also never wax into an edge, always 90 degrees across the films edge.
3. The blade was not sharp and pulled the edge slightly ) not seen to the naked eye and over time dirt collects and well you know the story.

Hope this helps.

clearbraj

I understand what you are saying about the unprotected paint. The films do not protect the paint from fading (limited UV protection) and as such the protected paint will have a similar fade as the balance of the paint on the vehicle. As the films reaches end of life and needs to be removed the unprotected paint will probably need to be clayed and buffed out since the the protected side is prestine and was not in the elements of washings, dirt etc.


Also todays paints do not fade like paints in the 90's and some paints did not have clears etc. 90-93 miatas as an example.

All in all this issue is not prevailant. Hope this helps.

thebishman

Just removed the 3M clear bra from my wife's 2008 GL 320 CDI after three years as it was yellowing. The paint is as it was from the factory without any chips, blemishes, etc; this after 40K miles. I'm having the GL detailed including clay barring next week and will have the front 'wrapped' again. In the midwest where we live, a 'clear bra' treatment is a must imho.
Bish

knhellesky

+1

We got an appointment next week to get the tint and the Clearshield basic package done (hood, fenders, mirrors).

NYCGLK

Then I would not do it. Too cheap to be good.

knhellesky

Your funny!

It costs 1K over where you're from and you decided not to do it (I'll just assume for a minute that it was too expensive for you).

And here you are telling me that you won't do it because where I'm from, it's too cheap to be good.

NYCGLK

^^^Yea exactly right. From what I read on many other car forums, if you want job well done you should go to a very reputable place, which charges lots of money. Materials are usually the same (3M or Verntureshield), but they can be different as well. Newer version are made to prevent yellowing, easier to take off later on etc. How would you know what they are really using unless it's reputable place that has been around. Next difference is in cut. Pre-cut is cheaper but custom cut will fit better and cover entire area. The last biggest difference is it how it's put on. Otherwise you are running a risk of just wasting your money and damaging the paint. There are some horror stories out there as well. Just read on other car forums.

Oh and lastly clear bra alters the shine besides adding the line across the hood.. If anything I would only put it on the bumper and headlights. Headlights are a must in my opinion.

golfster

With premium materials (3M, etc.) and proper installation, it:

*Comes off without peeling the paint.
*Does not result in a distinct difference from sun fade from the area uncovered versus covered over time.
*An easy fix to wax in the edge, groove line is to apply a strip of blue painters tape across the edges before waxing. I also apply that to the rubber molding, regardless of wax type, as it make removal headache free and does not allow wax to build up or clog in the edges.
*Can be waxed.
*Good material does not pock up easitly as suggested.

I've been using the 3M product on my cars for 6 years now, and it is worth the investment. I had it replaced once on a red car after 4 years due to a long black mark and groove left from a truck tire casing that blew off from a truck in front of me without the ability to avoid through lane change. I could remove a lot of the black marks with clear bra cleaner, but could not fix the grooves from the steel belts slapping against the clear bra. I thought I would have paint damage underneath, but once removed, luckily, no damage.

pro-tect mobile

Sorry but completely fasle. Film doees not block UV rays and I have pulled film off of numerous vehicles.... including my moms Vette which sat outside in the sun for years... and the paint was as new as the day it was bought. No difference in the paint... except it was free of swirl marks... and no chips.

This has been an "urban legend" that is simply untrue. The film is optically clear and allows light through.

pro-tect mobile

One thing to remember is most of the cases of film yelllowing these days is the wax people apply to it. Most of the cheaper waxes tend to yellow over time and they absorb into the clear bra. If you use a good sealant or something like Zaino you will minimize any yellowing and it will help the film last longer.