GLK Oil Analysis / Test Comparison
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Nissan GT-R BE / '12 Ducati-1199 Panigale S / '12 C300-4M Loaded/GLK350-4M Loaded
GLK Oil Analysis / Test Comparison
My buddy just had his GLK oil analyzed by Blackstone Labs (All of us use these guys: http://www.blackstone-labs.com/about-us.php) at around 9700 miles on the OD. (Remember I argued against waiting for the factory 10K recommended oil change interval. As stated in my earliar post, I changed my wife’s GLK oil and filter at 1K, 3K and then every 5K. I’m sorry to report that these test results confirm what I was trying to warn all my fellow GLK owners about. Those who refused to heed my warning should have at least given me the benefit of the doubt.)
His Analysis Basically Says: "As this is the first oil change, higher than normal wear levels have been detected primarily due to the internal parts getting to know one another during the first 10 thousand mile interval. We will probably see the results of this wear in proper phase for the next 3-4 oil changes. Universal averages show higher than typical wear levels for this type of engine after about 5400 miles on the oil. (This basically means that as the oil becomes contaminated with metal over time, the oil becomes more abrasive which adds even more metal to the oil.)
The TBN (Total Base Number) was a STRONG 2.9 showing plenty of active additives still left in the blend, less than 1.0 is too low. (This confirms that the cleaning additives are still present, but the oil was still filled with worn metal, the primary reason to change new engine oils sooner rather than later, even if it is a synthetic.) The air and oil filters are working well."
Recommendations: "For now try a couple of 5K oil changes until all the metal abrasives have been washed out.”
Elements PPM that were hi-lighted:
Aluminum 9 - (Wow! The average is 3)
Iron 108 - (16 is average) (Wow!!!!)
Copper 38 - (6 is average) (Wow again)
silicone 51 - (7 is average) (And Again!)
Properties:
SUS viscosity @ 210*F 65.7
CST viscosity @100*F 11.79
Fuel <.5% - 2.0
Antifreeze 0
Water 0 -<.1
Insoluble’s .3% - <.6%
TBN 2.9
Now check out this comparison test:
http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
His Analysis Basically Says: "As this is the first oil change, higher than normal wear levels have been detected primarily due to the internal parts getting to know one another during the first 10 thousand mile interval. We will probably see the results of this wear in proper phase for the next 3-4 oil changes. Universal averages show higher than typical wear levels for this type of engine after about 5400 miles on the oil. (This basically means that as the oil becomes contaminated with metal over time, the oil becomes more abrasive which adds even more metal to the oil.)
The TBN (Total Base Number) was a STRONG 2.9 showing plenty of active additives still left in the blend, less than 1.0 is too low. (This confirms that the cleaning additives are still present, but the oil was still filled with worn metal, the primary reason to change new engine oils sooner rather than later, even if it is a synthetic.) The air and oil filters are working well."
Recommendations: "For now try a couple of 5K oil changes until all the metal abrasives have been washed out.”
Elements PPM that were hi-lighted:
Aluminum 9 - (Wow! The average is 3)
Iron 108 - (16 is average) (Wow!!!!)
Copper 38 - (6 is average) (Wow again)
silicone 51 - (7 is average) (And Again!)
Properties:
SUS viscosity @ 210*F 65.7
CST viscosity @100*F 11.79
Fuel <.5% - 2.0
Antifreeze 0
Water 0 -<.1
Insoluble’s .3% - <.6%
TBN 2.9
Now check out this comparison test:
http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
Last edited by MBRedux; 07-25-2010 at 10:13 AM.
#2
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very interesting and makes sense and all...but what does this really mean? His engine will last 150k while yours 400k miles?
Do you have your oil analysis for comparison?
Do you have your oil analysis for comparison?
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Nissan GT-R BE / '12 Ducati-1199 Panigale S / '12 C300-4M Loaded/GLK350-4M Loaded
Yes I do have an analysis but it's for my GT-R. All is fine since I change that cars fluids a half intervals as well.
To answer your question, it's not a matter of how "long", vs. how "well" I plan to keep her car. As I have stated, we once followed the manufacturers schedule with dire results starting at around 75-90K miles on our previous Benz's etc..... never again.
To answer your question, it's not a matter of how "long", vs. how "well" I plan to keep her car. As I have stated, we once followed the manufacturers schedule with dire results starting at around 75-90K miles on our previous Benz's etc..... never again.
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GLK 350X :0
I am getting mine done next week at 5400 miles on the meter. Not used to getting oil change past 1500 miles / 3000 KMs.
Oil is everything in a car. Just like blood is everything in our bodies.
Of course, just getting the oil change @ MB is less expensive than doing the real 10K service.
Oil is everything in a car. Just like blood is everything in our bodies.
Of course, just getting the oil change @ MB is less expensive than doing the real 10K service.
#6
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I did my CLS63 AMG at 1,000, 3,000, 5,000. I did not need analysis to know that a $65 oil change on a $118K car was a good idea. I just got the GLK and it has 400 miles on it. I will change it at 1,000-2,000 miles and then at 5,000 mile intervals. you need to respect your machine.
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I did my CLS63 AMG at 1,000, 3,000, 5,000. I did not need analysis to know that a $65 oil change on a $118K car was a good idea. I just got the GLK and it has 400 miles on it. I will change it at 1,000-2,000 miles and then at 5,000 mile intervals. you need to respect your machine.
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GLK 350X :0
finally, got my 1st oil change only done today @ MB.
All in it came under 100 inclusive.
Bonus car bath was given and got me out within 1.20 hours.
No complaints....consider after reviewing the invoice, I could have only saved about $25 doing it myself.
feels good to get new oil for my baby....
All in it came under 100 inclusive.
Bonus car bath was given and got me out within 1.20 hours.
No complaints....consider after reviewing the invoice, I could have only saved about $25 doing it myself.
feels good to get new oil for my baby....
#9
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Rather than continuing to live in the 20th century as regards oil changes, how about reading ...
http://papers.sae.org/2007-01-4133/
http://papers.sae.org/2007-01-4133/
#10
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Rather than continuing to live in the 20th century as regards oil changes, how about reading ...
http://papers.sae.org/2007-01-4133/
http://papers.sae.org/2007-01-4133/
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#11
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Rather than continuing to live in the 20th century as regards oil changes, how about reading ...
http://papers.sae.org/2007-01-4133/
http://papers.sae.org/2007-01-4133/
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Anyone here own firearms? I don't mean junk either.... It's the same thing. Most firearm manufacturers require a full break down and cleaning after a certain interval of rounds sent through the gun.... but speak to any serious firearm expert and they'll tell you that they clean their guns after every use. There's no use defending the claims made by auto manufacturers... yes the interval has improved for reasons already explained, but for those who *know*, and I do mean *KNOW*, we'll just continue to do what we know is best for our cars, for the rest of the sheep, well it just doesn't matter to me what you do.... it's your car.
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Rather than continuing to live in the 20th century as regards oil changes, how about reading ...
http://papers.sae.org/2007-01-4133/
http://papers.sae.org/2007-01-4133/
I like the last sentence..."These findings could be an enabler for achieving longer drain interval although several other factors must to be considered."
This test does show a clear comparison with a distinct connection between oil type and alloy wear... http://www.animegame.com/cars/Oil%20Tests.pdf
#14
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Anyone here own firearms? I don't mean junk either.... It's the same thing. Most firearm manufacturers require a full break down and cleaning after a certain interval of rounds sent through the gun.... but speak to any serious firearm expert and they'll tell you that they clean their guns after every use. There's no use defending the claims made by auto manufacturers... yes the interval has improved for reasons already explained, but for those who *know*, and I do mean *KNOW*, we'll just continue to do what we know is best for our cars, for the rest of the sheep, well it just doesn't matter to me what you do.... it's your car.
Last edited by NYCGLK; 08-04-2010 at 09:32 PM.
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Checkout www.bobistheoilguy.com for everything you ever wanted to know about oil in your car. Has a great forum with people in the oil field giveing advise.
#16
Save your money and your engine
1. Oil matures with use and as much scientific research has shown becomes a better lubricant after several thousand miles of use
2. In the run in phase some metal floating is good to hone the bores, frequent oil changes in the run in period lead to overly smooth cylinder bores and excessive consumption (Cummins diesel one of first to show this).
3. Human error- every time oil is changed error and grit can be introduced by grease monkies
4. Every time oil is changed there is a period when the engine runs "dry" as oil pump primes and filter fills.
5. 50 years ago oil may need to be changed every 3000 miles but not today, just as many modern tires last much longer due to new materials.
6. Do what you want, but at least follow manufacturer guidelines in run in period and if you change frequently ensure it is done in a clean fashion and you check levels immediately afterward.
7. Please consult some engineering texts as much research has been done on this important topic in both gasoline and diesel engines. OTR trucks go 30-45,000 between changes and yet usually go 500,000 before needing new pistons and liners.
This frequent oil change story is rather like the vitamen supplements business where the only enrichment is actually the "vitamen" manufacturer.
2. In the run in phase some metal floating is good to hone the bores, frequent oil changes in the run in period lead to overly smooth cylinder bores and excessive consumption (Cummins diesel one of first to show this).
3. Human error- every time oil is changed error and grit can be introduced by grease monkies
4. Every time oil is changed there is a period when the engine runs "dry" as oil pump primes and filter fills.
5. 50 years ago oil may need to be changed every 3000 miles but not today, just as many modern tires last much longer due to new materials.
6. Do what you want, but at least follow manufacturer guidelines in run in period and if you change frequently ensure it is done in a clean fashion and you check levels immediately afterward.
7. Please consult some engineering texts as much research has been done on this important topic in both gasoline and diesel engines. OTR trucks go 30-45,000 between changes and yet usually go 500,000 before needing new pistons and liners.
This frequent oil change story is rather like the vitamen supplements business where the only enrichment is actually the "vitamen" manufacturer.
#17
Borgward!
mcelduff,
Excellent counterpoints to the OP's comments on frequent oil changes.
Are you still driving your Borgward Isabella? Is it restored? How many miles on the engine?
In another thread on the GLK forum tonight (June sales figures) I mentioned that I drove my father's cream color 1960 Isabella many years ago.
Excellent counterpoints to the OP's comments on frequent oil changes.
Are you still driving your Borgward Isabella? Is it restored? How many miles on the engine?
In another thread on the GLK forum tonight (June sales figures) I mentioned that I drove my father's cream color 1960 Isabella many years ago.
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1. Oil matures with use and as much scientific research has shown becomes a better lubricant after several thousand miles of use
2. In the run in phase some metal floating is good to hone the bores, frequent oil changes in the run in period lead to overly smooth cylinder bores and excessive consumption (Cummins diesel one of first to show this).
3. Human error- every time oil is changed error and grit can be introduced by grease monkies
4. Every time oil is changed there is a period when the engine runs "dry" as oil pump primes and filter fills.
5. 50 years ago oil may need to be changed every 3000 miles but not today, just as many modern tires last much longer due to new materials.
6. Do what you want, but at least follow manufacturer guidelines in run in period and if you change frequently ensure it is done in a clean fashion and you check levels immediately afterward.
7. Please consult some engineering texts as much research has been done on this important topic in both gasoline and diesel engines. OTR trucks go 30-45,000 between changes and yet usually go 500,000 before needing new pistons and liners.
This frequent oil change story is rather like the vitamen supplements business where the only enrichment is actually the "vitamen" manufacturer.
2. In the run in phase some metal floating is good to hone the bores, frequent oil changes in the run in period lead to overly smooth cylinder bores and excessive consumption (Cummins diesel one of first to show this).
3. Human error- every time oil is changed error and grit can be introduced by grease monkies
4. Every time oil is changed there is a period when the engine runs "dry" as oil pump primes and filter fills.
5. 50 years ago oil may need to be changed every 3000 miles but not today, just as many modern tires last much longer due to new materials.
6. Do what you want, but at least follow manufacturer guidelines in run in period and if you change frequently ensure it is done in a clean fashion and you check levels immediately afterward.
7. Please consult some engineering texts as much research has been done on this important topic in both gasoline and diesel engines. OTR trucks go 30-45,000 between changes and yet usually go 500,000 before needing new pistons and liners.
This frequent oil change story is rather like the vitamen supplements business where the only enrichment is actually the "vitamen" manufacturer.
All BS.... when you see it for yourself, all these words don't mean a thing.
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Personally I am one that should just follow the manufactures FSS, since I have never owned one vehicle for over 100K miles. Also here on Maui you normally do less then 7K miles a year and will then have to change more on the yearly recommendation versus the mileage. My GLK was manufactured in November, I now have 900+ miles on him and I figure that I will have maybe 4K miles on the GLK by November. So my first change if I want to wait till the 1 year since birth date will be at around 4K miles and then changed around every 7-9K miles for the next 3 years and then I will be trading for a new vehicle when this one has around 35K miles on it.
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Just changed the oil & filter.
Total cost with Castrol Syntec 5-40 and OEM filter: <$79.00
Total time spent: <20min.
Total peace of mind: Priceless!
Total cost with Castrol Syntec 5-40 and OEM filter: <$79.00
Total time spent: <20min.
Total peace of mind: Priceless!
Last edited by MBRedux; 08-12-2010 at 09:57 AM.
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2010 GLK 220CDI 4M BlueEFFICIENCY
Castrol Syntec, I take it
Time for another GLK Oil Analysis / Test Comparison debate : http://www.synthetic-motor-oil-chang...g-competitors/.
Note the statement: "The only 25,000 mile/one- year and 35,000/one- year motor oil in the world."
Time for another GLK Oil Analysis / Test Comparison debate : http://www.synthetic-motor-oil-chang...g-competitors/.
Note the statement: "The only 25,000 mile/one- year and 35,000/one- year motor oil in the world."
#22
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^ Of course there's no bias with this test... it was only conducted by the same oil company that won the test!
Last edited by MBRedux; 08-11-2010 at 04:07 PM.
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2010 GLK 350 4Matic
I agree that oil changes are important and when I first heard that my GLK needed oil change every 15k I was shocked. But makes me think... MB is known for is R&D and I am sure they would have would have done all kinds of tests on the engine before making any kind of recommendations.
I mean, MB does't want their engine failing due to bad oil policy... Also If I wanted to an engine that would last me 500k, I would have bought a Toyota.
I mean, MB does't want their engine failing due to bad oil policy... Also If I wanted to an engine that would last me 500k, I would have bought a Toyota.
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I think these engines and transmissions will last as long or longer then any Toyota engine. Toyota does not over stress their engine and this MB 3.5 is not over stressed at its current HP and Tq.