migwell2

Hi,
I have a 2008 W204 GLK280,
Steering column clearly unlock when both keys are plug in,
In second contact position, a message appear: "ESP inoperative and run flat inoperative" and engine will not start,
Xentry show ME9.7 N3/10 Control Unit isn't installed, unable to ask fault codes on it,
no CAN E communication fault is saved on ESP Control Unit.
Control units on CAN C (in red on the Network map) are not reachable (Fuel Pump N118, Motor Electronic ME97 N3/10, Electronic Selector Module N15/5, Transmission Control for 7 speed transmission Y3/8n4). Gateway management is here

It seem M9.7 N3/10 Control Unit doesn't wake up.

Sometimes this message disappear, engine starts, and "no CAN combustion engine communication" fault code is recorded on ESP, FSCU, ESM, VGS and IC.
Fuses, relay, CAN lines have been checked.

I want know if I replace N3/10 ECM, N10/1 front SAM or N73 EZS.

Thanks in advance

angryartichoke

I would start with the front SAM since you're having can issues on CAN C and E. Back up your variant coding with vediamo before swapping to a new one (both samf and cgw). You must replace with the same part number you currently have.

migwell2

Thanks for advice. I'm trying before this : change the battery sensor which maybe cause low battery then fault communication between EZS, front SAM and ME9.7...

Silver Shadow

Have you had the battery load tested?

migwell2

The problem start just after a battery swap. The battery sensor have been changed because of a failure. The battery is 12.5V when fully load, 13.7V when idling or rated speed.

Mmr1

What is “12.5 fully load” mean? Do an actual load test on the battery . What is voltage when cranking it, and after sitting for 12 hours ?

Silver Shadow

Even a new battery can be defective. A load test is the only way of knowing for sure what the status of the battery is.
I recently bought a battery load tester and checked all my vehicles, boat etc. My 1997 Subaru SVX was having starting problems. It charged perfectly and showed full voltage. When I tested it, it showed 225 CCA. It was an 800 cold cranking amps battery and failed the load test. I replaced the battery and problem solved.

calder-cay

Agreed. This happened to us, although the battery wasn't for the GLK (the Jeep).
Bought a brand new battery and installed it. **A month later**, I get the starter solenoid clicks, so charged the battery.
Then, drove it back to the shop, they tested it - bad battery. Replaced on the spot.

migwell2

It is a Drive Authorization System problem, not a battery problem. Car could not start after 50 tries, then could start normally with a really good starter speed rotation. Thanks for your help.

Mmr1

Yea, computer— did you know a bad battery can cause that! Like others said, and my self also , I got a defective battery once. I returned it for a different brand in a week!

How do you actually know you have AMPS i that battery ? How are connections ? Is it an AGM ?

migwell2

Connections are good and clean. I don't know if it's a AGM. I have 12.0V when during starter rotation.
I have to read EZS state with Xentry when the GLK don't start. Too, I want to change my new battery with a Varta AGM one.

Mmr1

Is it getting spark and fuel ? Get a can of starting fuel- either and spray in the intake and try it. Remove a plug boot- do it carefully they get fragile and do a test- look on YouTube for the right procedure.
12 v while cranking should be ok.