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Hey all,
I recently bought a 2015 GLK 350 with low miles, (23,000).
Obviously one of the first things I noticed was the notorious brake dust that these give off, so with a little research I came across people doing Akebono ceramic pads for both front and rear. I did read a few conflicting reviews but I thought what the hell, I'll try them.
Along with the ceramic pads I also went with Zimmermann rotors, this combo is absolutely awesome! very little brake dust and stops just as well as the originals. I was able to compare between the factory and aftermarket as my mother in law has the same 2015 GLK 350 so I drove one right after the other. highly recommend!!!
Last edited by mercedesbenzglk; Jul 7, 2022 at 06:58 PM.
The mb pads leave terrible pad deposits causing constant rotor replacement and/or rotor warping.
Pad deposits don't cause rotor warping. a few good high speed stops will clear that right up. they are very dusty but to say they are crap is a bit much. The good thing about them is they are paired. Rotors and pads should be paired or you are likely going to shorten the life of one or the other.
Bedding the pads to the rotors after a replacement is an important step that quite a few mechanics forget or neglect to do due to the extra time it takes. I work at a semi-luxury vehicle brand and I see more people coming in with unevenly worn pads and rotors because this step was overlooked.
Bedding the pads to the rotors after a replacement is an important step that quite a few mechanics forget or neglect to do due to the extra time it takes. I work at a semi-luxury vehicle brand and I see more people coming in with unevenly worn pads and rotors because this step was overlooked.
Does this apply only to new rotors with new pads? (vs. new pads with older rotors)
Bought my used, one owner, 52k mile GLK350 from MB dealer that originally sold and serviced it. My mistake believing that when the salesperson said it was in excellent condition and had been completely tested. Flew to Scottsdale, picked up car, drove to hotel and could tell it had warped rotors. Got home after 1,700mi and immediately went to R1 and ordered four new drilled rotors and ceramic pads. Changed parts, DOT 4 fluid and broke in per typical recommendation. They work great, stop on a dime with change left over . Cost about $500 vs MB cost at least 5x higher and installing proven inferior parts.
Pad deposits don't cause rotor warping. a few good high speed stops will clear that right up. they are very dusty but to say they are crap is a bit much. The good thing about them is they are paired. Rotors and pads should be paired or you are likely going to shorten the life of one or the other.
Unfortunately quick few stops just made matters worse. It seemed that set of rotors was warped (after 16k miles). Next set started vibrating after 6k miles getting worse. I went with aftermarket mads and drilled rotos this time. Let's see how this goes.
Facts.
Brake rotors don't warp they ware unevenly.
drilled rotors are no longer necessary and are primarily for looks.
ceramic pads are great for dust but are not as effective on a street car as a semi metallic pad.
brake fluid should be change every 2 years.
Facts.
Brake rotors don't warp they ware unevenly.
drilled rotors are no longer necessary and are primarily for looks.
ceramic pads are great for dust but are not as effective on a street car as a semi metallic pad.
brake fluid should be change every 2 years.
Possible but I only used new rotors and always torque wheels in star pattern. One set was so deformed that you could feel it by spinning the wheel - this was after 15k miles. Most resent felt fine, but would vibrate when braking from hi speeds that was after 6k miles. Pads looked very good actually...smooth and even.
Agree that cross drilled rotors are not necessary but I wanted to try something different. Id like slotted rotors.
Possible but I only used new rotors and always torque wheels in star pattern. One set was so deformed that you could feel it by spinning the wheel - this was after 15k miles. Most resent felt fine, but would vibrate when braking from hi speeds that was after 6k miles. Pads looked very good actually...smooth and even.
Agree that cross drilled rotors are not necessary but I wanted to try something different. Id like slotted rotors.
Not saying you were wrong more of a recap for the thread. I change my rotors and pads together every time also.
Does this apply only to new rotors with new pads? (vs. new pads with older rotors)
In my personal opinion, I have never been a fan of pad slapping a car. If I can I try to replace the rotors along with the pads or at least turn the rotors. Then proceed with the bedding process to get the most stopping power out of your brakes.
Does this apply only to new rotors with new pads? (vs. new pads with older rotors)
Now you are getting technical...In theory yes you want to transfer pad material to the rotor - purpose of bedding pads in. But who in this day and age changes pads without changing rotors? When my original brakes were ready for replacement, the rotors were so grooved there is no way they could be re-used plus they are so cheap (or free) I'm not sure why would anybody go through trouble of changing pads and leave old rotors on a street car. On a race car, that's a different story.
Now you are getting technical...In theory yes you want to transfer pad material to the rotor - purpose of bedding pads in. But who in this day and age changes pads without changing rotors? When my original brakes were ready for replacement, the rotors were so grooved there is no way they could be re-used plus they are so cheap (or free) I'm not sure why would anybody go through trouble of changing pads and leave old rotors on a street car. On a race car, that's a different story.
I'm sure there are people that don't change rotors every time they change pads. Not dealerships though, I'm sure. Obviously, if the rotors are in bad shape, it would be wise to change all. I'm still on my original rotors and pads with my 2014 GLK. No grooving, no vibration, no pulsating. I have new pads and rotors "on standby" in my garage.
Heck, there are people that don't change the oil filter with every oil change. That one seems like false economy to me.
I'm sure there are people that don't change rotors every time they change pads. Not dealerships though, I'm sure. Obviously, if the rotors are in bad shape, it would be wise to change all. I'm still on my original rotors and pads with my 2014 GLK. No grooving, no vibration, no pulsating. I have new pads and rotors "on standby" in my garage.
Heck, there are people that don't change the oil filter with every oil change. That one seems like false economy to me.
At some point you want to see the other side of the rotor...that's what gets nasty looking. You will feel at some point under heavy braking.
At some point you want to see the other side of the rotor...that's what gets nasty looking. You will feel at some point under heavy braking.
There's no reason for the inner part of rotor to be worse than the outside unless you're driving on gravel or something like that and pieces get stuck between the rotor and the brake shield. If that happens you're probably going hear some ugly things pretty quickly.
I swap wheels/tires twice a year and change brake fluid once every two years (with the wheels off) so I inspect the brakes fairly regularly while I'm at it. Not as easy on the inside of the rotor with the shield but you can get a bit of a look. A lot of these problems have to do with how people drive/brake, using harder brake pads, the surfaces/roads they drive on, average ambient temp and salt/gravel content on the roads in winter - depending on where they live.
I don't do much heavy braking but when I do I don't keep the pads clamped to the rotors for an extended period (great way to transfer pad material to the rotors). I release the brakes lightly and creep forward.
I am just sharing my experience with GLK that I have had for 13 years and 118k miles at this point while doing most of the work myself. It was night and day difference. Your results may vary
I am just sharing my experience with GLK that I have had for 13 years and 118k miles at this point while doing most of the work myself. It was night and day difference. Your results may vary
Understood. I've had mine since new almost 10 years ago. Drive it on the autobahn every day. Only had Mercedes do the very first service and have done everything else myself. Also do my own work on my other cars.
My GLK still has the original main battery and rear hatch struts which seem like new. Some folks seem to have issues with those. Having said that, I bought a new main battery recently and new rear struts so I'm ready when the time comes. They can't last THAT much longer... I assume.
There's no reason for the inner part of rotor to be worse than the outside unless you're driving on gravel or something like that and pieces get stuck between the rotor and the brake shield. If that happens you're probably going hear some ugly things pretty quickly.
I swap wheels/tires twice a year and change brake fluid once every two years (with the wheels off) so I inspect the brakes fairly regularly while I'm at it. Not as easy on the inside of the rotor with the shield but you can get a bit of a look. A lot of these problems have to do with how people drive/brake, using harder brake pads, the surfaces/roads they drive on, average ambient temp and salt/gravel content on the roads in winter - depending on where they live.
I don't do much heavy braking but when I do I don't keep the pads clamped to the rotors for an extended period (great way to transfer pad material to the rotors). I release the brakes lightly and creep forward.
It sounds like you keep up on your car but with a floating caliper the force starts on the inside of the rotor and then is applied to the other pad by the fixed part of the caliper. It is quite likely that the inside of the rotor will have more wear then the outside.
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