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Thank You John, I reviewed the chart. It does not reference our M276 engines but your report on your card seems more applicable. I can try a 20 Amp, however it had a 15 Amp for all the years I drove it and it did not blow. But worth a carefully monitored try...
If it blows the 20 (and it's starting to look like it will) you can try unplugging those sensors and see if that helps.
Here's a trick you can try: plug a test light in in place of the fuse and start adding (or removing) components.When you plug in the one that's blowing the fuse the light will get real bright.
It did blow, instantly. So it feels like a "hard" short. I am going to remove the plenum and examine that side now that I know that's the bank that's effected, Hat tip to Odd Piggy. Once I have all presumed involved components exposed and more accessible, failing a visual ID, I'll probably try the lamp idea. I have seen a sensor test procedure that I will try on them before I begin to replace them. And so on....
I have trawled similar posts and found one involving a shorted coil pack, apparently the damage was readily apparent, good times...
Last edited by PACIFICMAN; Jun 26, 2023 at 09:34 PM.
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Originally Posted by PACIFICMAN
...
Once I have all presumed involved components
...
I have seen a sensor test procedure that I will try on them before I begin to replace them. And so on....
Calder, Nothing significant since the last post. I've moved her into position for the plenum removal stage. Do you have any thoughts on insight on this condition?
Well here it is, The Crime scene and the Culprit...
"Center" cylinder, Driver side.
This was the exact issue described in a post that I stumbled onto while searching the forum, posted under a different model. I over thought it and tail chase ensued... Occam's razor strikes again!
Last edited by PACIFICMAN; Aug 9, 2023 at 09:27 PM.
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Originally Posted by PACIFICMAN
Well here it is, The Crime scene and the Culprit...
...
"Center" cylinder, Driver side.
This was the exact issue described in a post that I stumbled onto while searching the forum, posted under a different model. I over thought it and tail chase ensued... Occam's razor strikes again!
Help me understand what we're looking at in the two photos (?)
The first photo is the manifold, block, head base, etc. of the engine behind the coil which shorted, arced and spat out the residue in the photo.
The second photo is the top of the factory, Beru brand, coil showing the crack and melting from the failure.
The coil failed, shorted presumably, arced to the metal area behind it, dead shorting the circuit (#23, 10 Amp) that the various sensors, magnets, etc. are supplied voltage by.
That created the "code storm" when everything on the circuit stopped responding to the ECU / OBD system.
A new, upgraded Bosch coil arrives tomorrow and Should fix the issue, I'll post results.
I just posted this
exact scenario as yours....I'll check the coil pack for a crack. Was that it entirely, a new coil pack? aside from replacing the fuses?
Last edited by JamesMBZ; Mar 12, 2025 at 01:58 AM.
Turns out the magnets and the connector were leaking. Hadn't wicked oil to the ecu etc. Caught early. Ordered 4 new magnets. Unclipped the magnets to see them wet in the bottom. ugh! cleaned them up for now...and got a coil pack code, so got one for back up. fcp has lifetime on parts, so if they leak again...bingo. but thank you!
I found oil in my sensor as well😐 I'm not sure if I should stick with the mercedes (Continental OEM) or try the Delphi's. If it leaked once it'll probably leak again.
I realize this is an ancient post but I thought I would share my experience with this EXACT same issue. The customers 2015 E350 wagon with the M276 engine came in with the Check Engine Light on and blinking. It ran terrible and the customer complaint was that it will not go up the hill to his house. It had codes for all 4 camshaft sensors on the driver's side or bank 2. It also had misfire codes for cylinder 4, 5, and 6, all bank 2 as well. I looked at the engine computer harness for oil intrusion which there was none, I looked at oil intrusion on all 4 sensors and there was none there as well. I checked the ground and that was clean and tight. I then looked at the backside of the ignition coils for bank 2 and found that cylinder #4, or the front coil on the driver's side had cracked and was arking against the cylinder head cover which blew #24, 15AMP fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. I replaced the #4 ignition coil with an OEM BERU coil and also replaced the #24 fuse. I cleared all 7 codes that it set and she runs like a top. Thank ou for saving myself a ton of time and for saving the customer money on this repair. Cudos to you all. Have a great day and take care.
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