trunk lid not open with keyless go
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GLK 250 2013
Then I would be checking the proximity sensor for the rear hatch.
It must be sensing the key somehow because, IIRC, it won't lock unless it senses the key.
One more test you could try is to lock the car as in the video then toss the key to someone 10 feet away, then, before the light goes out, try to open the hatch. If it opens this proves there is a period of time after you "lock" it that it remains unlocked. It may be related to the behavior where, if you unlock it with the remote but don't open anything, it re-locks after 30 seconds.
It must be sensing the key somehow because, IIRC, it won't lock unless it senses the key.
One more test you could try is to lock the car as in the video then toss the key to someone 10 feet away, then, before the light goes out, try to open the hatch. If it opens this proves there is a period of time after you "lock" it that it remains unlocked. It may be related to the behavior where, if you unlock it with the remote but don't open anything, it re-locks after 30 seconds.
i locked with red lock button at the trunk then move the key away and back to car when light still on and it could not open with door hatch—> this is normal behavior of keyless.
more info: after situation as the video as i could not open the trunk i left the car overnight or a long period of time (morning-afternoon) then i could be open as normal. The key i have as vvdi BE key, i dont have genuine proximity fob. Because it as an retrofit then i could not order key from dealer.
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From: New Hampsha
'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250, Grandpa's Roadster
The key i have as vvdi BE key, i dont have genuine proximity fob. Because it as an retrofit then i could not order key from dealer.
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GLK 250 2013
Last edited by Chau Nguyen; Dec 14, 2024 at 07:57 PM.
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2013 glk 350
The only simple thing to do is remove your led bulbs and whatever you did , and check the electrical stuff in back look for corrosion and loose connections. If you open the box you might see a burnt chip
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GLK 250 2013
I vote for a problem in the key sensing module (modules if there are more than one). Symptoms tell me that before the GLK active interior times out, trunk button works. After the interior goes inactive, the sensor cannot see a passive key, not allowing the trunk button to work. But when a key is used to open the trunk lid, it transmits an active signal, which the sensor can see. Maybe a weak key sensing module, or a high impedance connection at its antenna. It appears @Mmr1 knows the locations and configurations.
CHÀO Chau
just some points and observations...
at the end of the video you pull on the rear hatch handle/switch many times and quickly. it is not a good test. the first pull signals the hatch to open. the second pull signals the hatch to stop moving. the third pull signals the hatch to open and this continues as you rapidly pull the switch.
as you may know, when you have the hatch open and push the red Close and Lock button it will only close (and then lock) if the key is detected. if the hatch is open it can be closed with the red Close button with no key or no key detected. of course once closed in will not lock when using this button.
if the hatch is fully open and you stand on a chair so you can reach hatch handle you can pull on the hatch handle and you should hear the click sound of a solenoid each time. it does not matter if the key is detected or not and the hatch will never move. if you do not hear a strong click each time then something may be wrong with the handle switch contacts or solenoid (could be a motor instead of a solenoid - not sure).
i assume this functionality is the same for all markets where it was sold. was your GLK built in Ho Chi Minh City?
just some points and observations...
at the end of the video you pull on the rear hatch handle/switch many times and quickly. it is not a good test. the first pull signals the hatch to open. the second pull signals the hatch to stop moving. the third pull signals the hatch to open and this continues as you rapidly pull the switch.
as you may know, when you have the hatch open and push the red Close and Lock button it will only close (and then lock) if the key is detected. if the hatch is open it can be closed with the red Close button with no key or no key detected. of course once closed in will not lock when using this button.
if the hatch is fully open and you stand on a chair so you can reach hatch handle you can pull on the hatch handle and you should hear the click sound of a solenoid each time. it does not matter if the key is detected or not and the hatch will never move. if you do not hear a strong click each time then something may be wrong with the handle switch contacts or solenoid (could be a motor instead of a solenoid - not sure).
i assume this functionality is the same for all markets where it was sold. was your GLK built in Ho Chi Minh City?
1. open the trunk by whatever button, then stop it that i could touch the hatch button without the chair.
2. immediately when it stop i click the hatch button and it worked.
3. when it stopped if i leaved it there for such as ?30s, then the hatch button didnt work
i did the same test with other glk car and it work all time no matter how long after all interior lights shut off. i think the issue is not from the key.
the timming for interior light shut off of my car is less then the friend of mine - the one that i test the hatch button, and this car also change all to led. the difference of 2 car now is the main battery as my friend have just replace while my SOH of battery is 36%. i think i will replace the battery before hand.
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i did a test to make sure the issue come from the key for the hatch button as below:
1. open the trunk by whatever button, then stop it that i could touch the hatch button without the chair.
2. immediately when it stop i click the hatch button and it worked.
3. when it stopped if i leaved it there for such as ?30s, then the hatch button didnt work
i did the same test with other glk car and it work all time no matter how long after all interior lights shut off. i think the issue is not from the key.
the timming for interior light shut off of my car is less then the friend of mine - the one that i test the hatch button, and this car also change all to led. the difference of 2 car now is the main battery as my friend have just replace while my SOH of battery is 36%. i think i will replace the battery before hand.
1. open the trunk by whatever button, then stop it that i could touch the hatch button without the chair.
2. immediately when it stop i click the hatch button and it worked.
3. when it stopped if i leaved it there for such as ?30s, then the hatch button didnt work
i did the same test with other glk car and it work all time no matter how long after all interior lights shut off. i think the issue is not from the key.
the timming for interior light shut off of my car is less then the friend of mine - the one that i test the hatch button, and this car also change all to led. the difference of 2 car now is the main battery as my friend have just replace while my SOH of battery is 36%. i think i will replace the battery before hand.
Does the other GLK have the same retrofitted LED for the trunk light? If they are not the same then maybe the cut-off voltage (current) for the two different LEDs is also different. That would give the impression of the timers being different lengths of time as the LEDs would go dark after a different number of seconds. This is assuming the trunk light is also slowly being dimmed like the interior lights and not just an instant removal of power. That's how it appears in your video as the LEDs start flickering at the cut-off point.
Was any software coding done after the retrofit? If so, maybe something was missed or set incorrectly. If no software coding was done maybe some is needed??
In any event, as you point out, any sort of useful electrical or electronic troubleshooting must start with a strong and stable power source. If by SOH you mean State of Health for your battery then 36% certainly does not sound good, as a basic starting point.
Last edited by MBKLUE; Dec 16, 2024 at 01:23 AM.
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GLK 250 2013
Does the other GLK have the same retrofitted LED for the trunk light? If they are not the same then maybe the cut-off voltage (current) for the two different LEDs is also different. That would give the impression of the timers being different lengths of time as the LEDs would go dark after a different number of seconds. This is assuming the trunk light is also slowly being dimmed like the interior lights and not just an instant removal of power. That's how it appears in your video as the LEDs start flickering at the cut-off point.
Was any software coding done after the retrofit? If so, maybe something was missed or set incorrectly. If no software coding was done maybe some is needed??
In any event, as you point out, any sort of useful electrical or electronic troubleshooting must start with a strong and stable power source. If by SOH you mean State of Health for your battery then 36% certainly does not sound good, as a basic starting point.
Was any software coding done after the retrofit? If so, maybe something was missed or set incorrectly. If no software coding was done maybe some is needed??
In any event, as you point out, any sort of useful electrical or electronic troubleshooting must start with a strong and stable power source. If by SOH you mean State of Health for your battery then 36% certainly does not sound good, as a basic starting point.
for sure it have to be code to make keyless go work after wiring work.
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That's strange because I don't see any LED flickering until 25 seconds into your video and then that's just before the LED goes dark. That makes it seem the trunk light is on a dimming circuit and the LED flickers when it's bordering the cut-off point.
Did you or a friend do the coding or a garage or M-B dealership?
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GLK 250 2013
That's strange because I don't see any LED flickering until 25 seconds into your video and then that's just before the LED goes dark. That makes it seem the trunk light is on a dimming circuit and the LED flickers when it's bordering the cut-off point.
Did you or a friend do the coding or a garage or M-B dealership?
Did you or a friend do the coding or a garage or M-B dealership?
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2013 glk 350
Sorry to change the subject , but why do people put LED inside their cars . If you understood light quality. That’s the last thing you would do. Halogen have 100 color rendition . Led no better than 93. That’s why so many movie and YouTube videos people and colors look like @$”- Crap ! Oh , I’m a photographer. Take those stupid lights out and maybe your problem will go away as well. Look up CRI ,it’s the key to light quality
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Sorry to change the subject , but why do people put LED inside their cars . If you understood light quality. That’s the last thing you would do. Halogen have 100 color rendition . Led no better than 93. That’s why so many movie and YouTube videos people and colors look like @$”- Crap ! Oh , I’m a photographer. Take those stupid lights out and maybe your problem will go away as well. Look up CRI ,it’s the key to light quality
If it looks okay, I prefer LEDs on older Italian cars as typically their electrical systems were marginal right out of the factory. Reducing the load on the alternator, fuse holders, switches, wiring etc. can make a positive difference. Also less heat produced by the bulbs which can save an old, brittle plastic housing of some sort that has a bulb in it.
CRI is important for photography, artwork illumination, your living room lighting, dental work and such but I would prefer a whiter light source, even with poor CRI, in a place like a trunk. Trunk lighting is often an after thought and a feeble yellowish illumination coming from some odd corner of a trunk is not great.
And, of course, some LEDs have a decent CRI. Others are terrible. I think it really depends on the application. Illumination pattern is also a factor where incandescent bulbs usually have the upper hand in many areas - but probably not in the GLKs trunk light fixture.
Last edited by MBKLUE; Dec 16, 2024 at 06:48 AM.
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2013 glk 350
I agree. I use led most everywhere . But not in cabin. A new led with double the efficiency of everything else , 200LPW is by Phillips. “The Dubai Bulb” At Walmart only Some at Amazon, for 120v in your house . Phillips Ultra Efficient! In 60 and 100w. The 60 uses 4.5 watt I think .
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I agree. I use led most everywhere . But not in cabin. A new led with double the efficiency of everything else , 200LPW is by Phillips. “The Dubai Bulb” At Walmart only Some at Amazon, for 120v in your house . Phillips Ultra Efficient! In 60 and 100w. The 60 uses 4.5 watt I think .
yeah, no messing with the cabin lighting, for me. it should remain mellow and not harsh.
i remember when those spiral fluorescent screw-in bulbs were a thing in homes, restaurants etc. that was some horrific lighting...
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What’s amazing is we had non efficient 15 LPW lights for 100+ years , then LED at 70-100, now 200 LPW. And they last longer , supposedly. And with a car , one led can shut off your lights ! Canbus .
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I replaced brand new agm batt and nothing change except the interior light lasting longer.
https://youtube.com/shorts/hOkUNmxvAoo?feature=share
https://youtube.com/shorts/hOkUNmxvAoo?feature=share
Sorry to hear that. On the positive side you have a new main battery, which it seems you really needed.
I did notice in the video you are still pulling the hatch handle multiple times, quickly, instead of just once.
Why are you trying to open the hatch from an already partially open position? Or did the hatch stop in that position because the trunk light happened to turn off at the point?
Last edited by MBKLUE; Dec 17, 2024 at 11:56 PM.
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GLK 250 2013
Sorry to hear that. On the positive side you have a new main battery, which it seems you really needed.
I did notice in the video you are still pulling the hatch handle multiple times, quickly, instead of just once.
Why are you trying to open the hatch from an already partially open position? Or did the hatch stop in that position because the trunk light happened to turn off at the point?
I did notice in the video you are still pulling the hatch handle multiple times, quickly, instead of just once.
Why are you trying to open the hatch from an already partially open position? Or did the hatch stop in that position because the trunk light happened to turn off at the point?
the reason to push multiple time as just show in the video that i pushed it, if i push 1 then very hard to show via video. With the interior lights on, only 1 push it worked. i did similar on my friend car (GLK same year difference engine) and that button worked when lights off.
the reason i have to do that as i have issued when open trunk with keyless fob in my pocket and i could not open with button hatch. i do this (open/stop trunk door in the middle then wait) just to understand the problem come from the button or the proximity off the key. by this test i'm sure that the issue come from the button is flat out of power after light have been off (same as when we locked the trunk) after specific of time.
Yes, I got new battery as the old one last more than 4.5 years.
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Oh , AGM batteries can last 10, to most they last 7-8 years . Age means nothing only testing matters . Did you try removing your led upgrades ? At least try unplugging them and try the rear hatch. Did you get an AGM battery ?
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GLK 250 2013
yes agm because the battery testing device ask to replace the old one as soh 36%
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From: New Hampsha
'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250, Grandpa's Roadster
I'm not sure; I'll have to check our GLS, but, I think, if you stop the hatch when it is going up, the only thing you can do from there is close it with the red buttons, so, your demonstration may not be showing your problem, which, if i understand it, is that you cannot unlock the hatch by walking up to the locked car and squeezing the hatch release. Is that correct?
In other words, if the hatch is already open, it will not respond to an "open" command from the handle.
In other words, if the hatch is already open, it will not respond to an "open" command from the handle.
Last edited by John CC; Dec 18, 2024 at 08:15 AM.
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GLK 250 2013
I'm not sure; I'll have to check our GLS, but, I think, if you stop the hatch when it is going up, the only thing you can do from there is close it with the red buttons, so, your demonstration may not be showing your problem, which, if i understand it, is that you cannot unlock the hatch by walking up to the locked car and squeezing the hatch release. Is that correct?
In other words, if the hatch is already open, it will not respond to an "open" command from the handle.
In other words, if the hatch is already open, it will not respond to an "open" command from the handle.
I dont know the issue come from the hatch or the key itself. That is the reason why i have to test the hatch only, and the procedure is the way to test the power of the hatch after everything is off somehow simulate the car locked status
whenever you touch door handle or push button start/stop there will be a small red led flash on th key. My door hatch when is pressed,the led on key did not flash. Then i come to the main door an touch on the handle and the led is flashing and door can open. So i think the hatch have no power then it could not send signal to verified the key to open the trunk. This is why i have to come up with these above solution to test the power to the hatch.
Today i doa test again: the trunk have to button. When i pressed the lock button then wait for intertior light off then the hatch dont work.
if i pressed the left button the hatch still have power when light off
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From: New Hampsha
'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250, Grandpa's Roadster
I thought the purpose of the red LED on the key was only to indicate the state of the battery.
It sounds like the issue is that the handle won't unlock the hatch whereas the button will. I assume you are saying that if the hatch is locked and you press the "open hatch" button it unlocks the car and opens the hatch. The handle will open the hatch only if it is already unlocked.
If you press the red lock button to close the hatch, can you open it immediately after it closes (before the light goes out?) Once you press the red lock button, if you get rid of the key, can you still open the hatch immediately? (I think you said "no", but I want to be sure.)
I ask, because it sounds like the hatch cannot detect the presence of the key, but there is that brief period of time, while the light is still on, where either you don't need the key, or the hatch can detect it.
Pressing the button on the key does not require the key to be in close proximity.
It sounds like the issue is that the handle won't unlock the hatch whereas the button will. I assume you are saying that if the hatch is locked and you press the "open hatch" button it unlocks the car and opens the hatch. The handle will open the hatch only if it is already unlocked.
If you press the red lock button to close the hatch, can you open it immediately after it closes (before the light goes out?) Once you press the red lock button, if you get rid of the key, can you still open the hatch immediately? (I think you said "no", but I want to be sure.)
I ask, because it sounds like the hatch cannot detect the presence of the key, but there is that brief period of time, while the light is still on, where either you don't need the key, or the hatch can detect it.
Pressing the button on the key does not require the key to be in close proximity.
Last edited by John CC; Dec 18, 2024 at 08:38 PM.
