MontenegroATL

Hello,

I have 1998 ML 320. I purchased it with 54K miles and now it has 77K.
So far I was blessed with this vehicle and was only changing motor oil every 5K miles (Mobile 1 Synthetic).

I want to keep this vehicle for long time and would like to perform all servicing necessary. Also I do not want to get ripped from dealers for something that I may not really need. Do not have anything agains dealers but it happend to me in the past.

I was wondering if someone can advise me what to service in the next 25 K miles (interval from 75K - 100K miles)
Should I flush/replace transmission fuild or any other fluids in gear case and similar?

I know I could ask dealer about this, but the best resource are actual owners and their experience.

Thanks

Pottie

hi there
I had similar issue and concerned as you earlier...
my suggestion is you would have to shop around for best deal....
from my experience they should change the oil and u can add tune up by replacing the spark plugs...and inspect brake also...
Those should be run $400 and make sure u re using original parts...
dont forget to change the air filter also....

mihir_d

I am in the exact same boat at 91K miles (all put by me, bought it new in 2000) and since, I too intend to keep it for a long time, I just scheduled my major services for the 1st and 2nd week of August - I broke down the things at two places, one is a trusted MB shop and the other at the dealership.

First (Non-Dealer MB Shop)
1. Replace fuel filter ($125)
2. Replace spark plugs ($150)
3. Replace Mass Airflow sensor ($350)

Cost: Approx: $700 (parts & labor)

Second (Dealer)
1. B Service ($300)
2. Transmission Service ($285)
3. Coolant flush ($100)
4. Reset ICU Adaptation codes (NC)

Cost Approx: $700 (parts & labor)

kevinchung

I suggest you go to some place who know about Mercedes. Or you make sure they use original part.
I have been to a corner shop to do brake sevice. Brake light still on, they said the light will be gone after few km. Finally I went back to dealer, they said there is a sencer you need to replace as well. And the disc is not original(I did not know and it looks the same) Now there is some rust around.
Kevin

mihir_d

And obviously, I will be using all original parts...but I figure, rather than buying from the dealer, shopping online may be a better idea...performanceproducts.com vends all MB parts...I am thinking of ordering all the parts from there..

Anyone, any experience with them? I think, their stuff should be original...

mihir_d

I was quoted
$400 parts and labor to replace the plugs (not including the wiring harnesses)
$210 parts and labor to replace the fuel filter
$500 parts and labor to replace the MAF

Total approx. $1100

12 plugs cost about $80
Fuel filter costs about $100
MAF costs about $350
-----
$530

I know, the plugs are relatively an easy DIY, the MAF I have DIYed before, the only thing, I haven't touched is the fuel filter. I don't want to go the shop just for one job...is the fuel filter a DIY too?

How hard is it? Any instructions on it anywhere?

Also, does anyone know, if the dealer resets the adaption codes as part of the B service? If not, can they be reset by a off the shelf OBD II reader? I am planning on DIYing all this and then giving it in for its scheduled B service...I know, I should reset the adaption codes after replacing all that...

len320

what are the adaptation codes? What is that?

mihir_d

MB's ECU has what are called fuel/air "mixture adaptation codes", numbers that tell the ECU how to adjust the air fuel mixture.

If any of the major fuel injection, intake or exhaust components are replaced, these codes need to be reset.

mihir_d

Just finished replacing my spark plugs and thought of sharing some pictures..

Lessons learnt
1. The driver side plugs are more difficult to get at compared to the passenger side ones.
2. Needed 2-3 different length socket extensions to get to plugs at different locations of the engine block
3. The hardest part of the exercise was getting the boots off..I used a 19 mm open wrench and compact pliers to wiggle them one at a time. The last one or two on the driver side towards the steering wheel were the hardest to get to. Autozone sells a little spark plug boot removal plyer...that helped somewhat, but all in all getting the boots off was quite an exercise.
4. I decided to purchase the new plugs from the dealer ($15/plug 12x15 + tax = $189!!!), since there are quite some confusing ideas on what plugs should be put in. Dealer doesn't carry any special plug removal or boot removal tool..

For some reason, dealer advised not to put anti-sieze on the plugs, but did recommend anti sieze on the boots...would anyone know why???

Here are some pictures

footneek

mihir_d or anyone else can help me with instructions on how to get to the mass air sensor? I have been having some near stalling issues at stop. If anyone else know, please give me instructions on how to replace the spark plugs. I am replacing these parts myself with OEM parts. They wanted 900 bucks in labor to replace not including parts...what a rip off.

55fanatic

have you done this stuff before? if you have not at least make sure you have someone who is mechanically inclined near by... where are you located?

Mass airsensor is on the left side of the engine bay, you unclip it from the airbox, unclip the wire harness from it and then unscrew it off the back of the intake pipe...

footneek

I live in Pinellas Park, FL. I usually work on Toyota and Lexus. We have a few Camry, 4Runner, Rx330, then there is my ML 350. This is my first dabble in MB. I have changed oil and rotated tires on my 2005 ML 350. Things are a bit different on MB's. Toyota's and Lexus are much easier to fix. But your ride doesn't turn heads in a Toyota, maybe a Lexus. BTW, my dad's a mechanic but he is not familiar with the new MB's.

Reading from your description, the MAS is pretty easy to get to. FYI...MB dealer don't have a clue as to why my ML350 occasionally shudders at red lights. They said they can't reproduce it and there is no code in the computer so....after bring it in 7 times and warranty running out, I still have the problem. I hope the MAS is the cure. Otherwise, I love my ML 350.

Changing the sparks is probably going to take about 3-4 hours to do and about 200 bucks for the 12 plugs, right?

benzeboy

footneek, what is the mileage on your vehicle? You may want to change your fuel filter if you havn't done that in a while.

footneek

65K spent mostly driving highway from Miami to Tampa. I figure I should do the maintenance early before I have any issues on I75 in aligator alley at night. I might as well change the fuel filter -- it can't be that expensive, right?

fizzle

is there a write up for the fuel filter? i know in my old Jeep, we had to drop the fuel tank.

footneek

If this is true, I am going to let the dealer do this one.

benzeboy

Search the forum there is a write up on changing the fuel filter. Your filter is above the fuel tank and below the rear seat passenger side. You do NOT have to remove the fuel tank, however you do have to remove the rear seat. If you think the dealer is too expensive an experience mechanic can easily do it. I did mine myself, bought oem filter on ebay for $49.00. Good lock

fizzle

https://mbworld.org/forums/showthrea...ng+fuel+filter

footneek

Thanks. I will start with
1) cleaning the MAF
2) change the fuel filter
3) change spark plugs
4) change transmission fluid

Hmm....I think I have busy next 2 months of work.

u001elg

No anti-sieze is required due to the dissimiliar metals between the head and the sparkplugs... Anit-sieze was commonly used with cast iron heads to prevent the carbon steel of the plugs from fusing to the cast iron.

Although I have never used anti-sieze on sparkplug boots (don't know the electrical properties of anti-sieze)... I have used dielectric tune-up grease (Permatex 67V or equal) to coat the inside of the boots or place on the ceramic portion of the spark plugs which reduces/eliminates the boot sticking problem you mentioned in your post. This grease has high dielectric strength such that it will not conduct the "spark" to ground and create a mis-fire. If you try to use off the shelf grease (wheel bearing, chassis lube, etc.) the additives contain small amounts of metals such as zinc and moly which will cause problems. Hope this helps.

mihir_d

Thanks for the insight...I don't quite remember now what exactly I ended coating the boots with, but I did coat them with something that the dealer recommended.

Have put 45K miles since, and no problems whatsoever....engine has never misfired..