Can Air Intake Tube mounting tab be repaired?
 

I screwed up and pulled too hard on the air intake when the rear mount tab wasn't fully released and snapped it off. Can that be satisfactorily repaired or did I ruin it? How much stress is on that tab?

The part is stamped PPGF20, so it is glass fiber reinforced Polypropylene. Any suggestions of a product that can bond PPGF20 with enough strength for this application?


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...3303f5de35.jpg
ml320 air intake rear mounting clip

I dont know of any bondo that would work to give you the same original strength, however looking at it, if it were my screw up.....I would look at fabricating 2 thin rectangular sheet metal-type of tabs for each side, drill holes into the tabs at each end and same into the PGGF20 pieces (carefully) and use small machine type screws and nuts to hold it all together. Just my 2 cents.
OR goto pickn pull and find a replacement. :)

This is what happens when you do not ask for instructions prior to removing components.

That is the diagram I followed. I had no problem disengaging the lock underneath with my finger. I thought the top would then slide out, but it didn't. It got hung up on something and I pulled too hard and it broke.

The top side also has a lock and also a small bolt that should be removed.

Plastic welding sounded like the best option. I bought a cheap welding iron that came with some fine metal mesh and some universal plastic blanks that are supposed to bond well with a variety of plastic, including polypropylene. I melted the mesh into the part on both sides of the break on the front and the back, and then melted new plastic over it. It doesn't look pretty, but it seems to be very strong.

I've run it for about 30 minutes so far, and no sign of any oil leak yet. That looks promising. It is idling a little rough and I think it is shifting a little harshly at low speed, so I am thinking I may have a vacuum leak. I replaced all the hoses that attach to the valve cover breather chambers. It wasn't easy to see and to access where they connect in the back of the engine, so I need to go through and check all of those connections to make sure they seal properly. Otherwise, it seems good.
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https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...fc2186da01.jpg

Doesn't have to look purdy, sdw163. :) As long as it does it's job holding it together.

Looking at your "bond", I would even go the extra mile, and still drill and screw and mesh on top of what you have to make that connection solid (so long as there's nothing that interferes with its re-installation)
(But that's just me being anal about bondo repairs).

Glad it's working out for you so far....