carverlux

Hello,

After almost 60K miles over almost 5 years, I have one bulb that has turned orange so it's time to change both bulbs. Researching the various sites and forums, I was not able to come up with definitive answers on how it's done. In fact, I found a "W164 Xenon" PDF which showed a D2S with an igniter module behind it. While it was a series of screen dumps from WIS for a W164, it did have a different engine, a different year than mine, so I did not completely count on it as being accurate.

I looked in EPCnet using my VIN, and found that it is indeed a D1S bulb that is used for my Bi-Xenon headlights. However, many posts from this forum detailed varying accounts of how the D1S is attached to the headlight reflector assembly, and I was not able to find one specific to my ML550. So I went under the hood and took a look. The covers on the headlight assembly came off relatively easily with a twist of a quarter turn, but it is nearly impossible to see inside since both are almost 90° to the line of sight. What is clear is that the bulb is an OSRAM 66144 D1S type bulb, and attached to it at the bottom is the wiring harness using a connector.

So my questions are:

1. To disconnect the connector to the bulb, is it just a simple pull downwards? Is there a trick to doing this, other than to be gentle with it?

2. To disconnect the bulb from the reflector, is it a twist motion against a spring washer which tensions the bulb in place or is there a hinged wire spring clip that cannot be seen from an oblique angle but must first be unhooked?

3. Is there somewhere where a video tutorial or PDF may be available?

Thank you!
carver

dgiturbo

You sound like you are unsure, so I recommend you pay the dealer. That circuit carries 25000 volts and will ruin your life.

carverlux

I have no hesitation to do "it", but I do like to do things right. This is why I am seeking the advice from forum members who have done it successfully. No, I do not want to get hit by 25,000 VDC. Doing it right to me also means not paying a dealer close to $600 to do what takes at most 10 minutes and $100 in parts.

bslocum

has anyone changed the bulb without getting shocked robert

carverlux

Since I did not get any replies here, I did go to the dealer and can share how this is done. Again, the comments here apply to a 2008 ML 550, Type W164, with Bi-Xenon headlamps.

1. First, get the correct bulb! The correct replacement bulb is a D1S type, OSRAM 66144. It is available at Amazon for about $56 each.

2. The D1S has a long quartz envelope that is connected to a square metal base. Where the glass meets the metal is a black plastic ring bonded to the metal base made from a high temperature composite. It has several square notches cut into its circumference to connect to and orient different mounting systems.

Now it's time to access these bulbs.

TURN OFF THE IGNITION AND KEEP THE KEYS AWAY FROM THE VEHICLE!!! The MB Owner's Manual cautions the owner against replacing these bulbs because the connectors to the bulbs carry up to 25,000 Volts from the ballast. This can be potentially lethal. Do the following AT YOUR OWN RISK.

3. The bulbs are protected from the engine compartment inside the headlight housing assembly which contains the headlamp, parking lamp and turn signal. From inside the engine compartment, the largest round door (which is also the closest to the fender) is the one to remove to access the headlamp.

4. Turn these round covers a quarter turn and they come off. Note their orientation for re-assembly. It is pretty simple but working in these awkward spaces can be trying so just be cautious.

5. With the round covers removed, you should now be able to see the square metal base of the bulb, and that they are connected at their base to wiring harnesses that provide the power from the ballast. To remove the bulbs - MAKE SURE THE IGNITION IS OFF AND KEYS ARE AWAY FROM THE VEHICLE - just grab onto the base of the lamp and twist, and a quarter turn later, the bulb is now in your hand.

6. At this point, the wiring harness is still connected to the bulb. It is a simple pull and they are now disconnect. AND here comes the good part.

7. Around the metal base where the quartz envelope connects, you will now see a rather large black composite flange that is clamped onto the black composite ring that is a part of the bulb. This external flange is the interface between the headlamp assembly and the bulb. It is a ring that is hinged and unhinging it will release it from the bulb. This is ingenious and is like magic!!

8. Unhinge this composite ring from the old bulb, orient it correctly on the new bulb, and "click" it back together. Presto - you are in. Needless to say, you should take care not to touch the quartz envelope with your bare fingers or they will be ruined. This is the same precaution as required for changing other quartz bulbs.

9. With the reassembled bulb, just reconnect the wiring harness, replace it back into the headlamp assembly, make sure it is seated correctly and securely, replace the round access door and you are done! Now you can turn on the ignition and check function of the headlamps.

All this takes at most 5 minutes each side and is a lot simpler than I thought it would be. MB dealers charge 1 hour labor rate per side so in my area, it is $135.00 plus tax for the labor alone. The D1S bulbs from MB parts counter is $200 each.

I hope this is helpful to someone with the same vehicle configuration and need to change bulbs. Again, it can be hazardous due to high voltages so decide and do at your own risk.

All the best of luck.

dgiturbo

Thanks for sharing. The area in there is tight, and the voltage is dangerously high. It is a simple enough job, but I guess the dealer is factoring in a "danger factor" when they price it. Fortunately they do last a long enough time to help offset the cost factor.

zemun1234

I have changed on my own ...I have big hands and I removed bulb but I asked my wife to put back (before I asked her, my hands were bloody from tight spot inside. She got very good life insurance and I was in 'win-win' situation. Just kidding ...

As for bulb replacement, it should be 5 min job if you have reasonable size hands. As mentioned above, please be sure that you have some safety boots - just in case ...

HiTach

I also found my HID bulbs getting dim and changing color.
My vehicle is a 2002 W163 ML500, but I found it easier (and safer) to remove the headlamp assembly and do the replacement on a workbench.
See this post for details and a picture of the difference between old and new.

Well done OP on posting the DIY details, that's what makes these forums so great!

I'm looking at possibly getting a 2008-2010 W164, but don't see many with the Bi-Xenon/HID Lighting Package.
I do see some listings with Bi-Xenon/HID but without headlamp washers on the front bumper, which makes me doubt the accuracy.
Are the Bi-Xenons really different on the W164s?
Anyone have any input?

GLO

Thanks for this info.

What colour temp where the replacement bulbs?

I find that my 2008 w251 doesn't light up the road as much as I like. It might be time to replace and I'm thinking 4200k.

I look forward to your replies.

carverlux

The D1S, Osram 66144 is 4300°K. They seem a very slight bit greenish, not yellow.

Good luck!

GLO

Thanks, that seems to be in the optimal colour temp range.

How long did your bulbs last before replacing?

carverlux

Just under 60,000 miles.

iankayem

I am intrigued by the fear factor carried by your posts, regarding being hit by 25,000 volts.

I am also aware of the deadly risk of touching the 415v wires up the pole in our streets, let alone the 22,000 volt lines above them.
These wires carry not only high voltage, but have the current to go with it to zap your heart to oblivion.

I am also old enough to remember prior to our lands becoming "a nanny state". We used to laugh when someone passed a magento or coil lead onto an unsuspecting person to give them a "jolt".

I am glad those times have passed and I still stay clear of the 6,000 volt wire around our goat paddock. But the 25,000 volts from this ballast, if taken unadvisedly, will cause you to jump, maybe skin your knuckles if near to a raw panel, but is not likely to cause direct serious injury due to the lack of current available.

Do not get me wrong, I will take utmost care when handling such globes and ballasts. But there is no need to be paranoid about it.

N_Jay

Is there an easy place to pull the power connection from the ballast, or maybe pull the headlamp ballast fuse (just for peace of mind)?

GLO

I'm at 150K kms now. Did yours actually die before you replaced them? Otherwise how do I tell if mine are fading?

HiTach

See this post for details and a picture of the difference between old and new.

cschmelz

On my 2007 W164 it is super easy to do. The ballast AUTOMATICALLY kicks off the power lead when you turn the ballast off the bulb and won't let you reconnect it until the ballast is back on the bulb!

This isn't rocket science folks! Makes sure the lights are off, key away from the car and just get it done. Took me 15 minutes to complete, 1/2 of that time learning you have to have the ballast back on the bulb before you can reconnect the power leads.

carverlux

I have to admit that I was a little taken aback when I posted the question as the OP - that I would get a voltage hazard warning and advice to take it to the dealer on what appears to be a DIY forum.

sheepdog8

I carry a Taser at work. It has 50k volts, but less than 1/2 amp. From what I remember, the Amps are the dangerous number. Those Van der Graf toys that make your hair stand up have a lot more volts but don't have any pain. So I'm still going to be careful changing my bulbs but, I'm not going to be paranoid about it.

Verizen

Thanks to carverlux's explanation, I changed a D1S bulb for my 2008 GL 320 CDI with Bi-Xenon headlight. Here is how it looks like after unhinging the flange.

okbarnett

You should always be cautious when you work on things you are unsure of. Theres alot of warning decals on mercedes. Generally, if you take the key out, take it far away from your car. keep from opening and closing the doors and trunk. Not too much will go wrong. For sure youre not going to get hurt working on the headlights if you take the covers off, disconnect the plugs and take the bulbs in and out. Most all of the factory bulbs can be replaced with any mfg aftermarket bulb from any light dealer, websites or ebay etc. You can get them for $25 to $50 a pair, and you can buy any color temp you want
I have some factory take off bulbs like H7, D2S, D1S if any body want to buy some

BenzboyW210

Hi all,

Older thread, but good knowledge.

I am trying to replace a xenon bulb on my 2007 E550 - wrong forum I know but same headlight projector assembly and D1S housing.

I cannot, for the life of me, get my driver's side bulb seated into the projector housing. I have a new bulb with igniter (D1S), I have secured the new black plastic bracket around the D1S bulb that connects it to the metal base on the projector lamp housing.

I simply cannot get it to 'seat' on the metal housing. I have actually removed the bumper and light assemblies as I have to replace a ballast as well. I can get the four plastic tabs on the black plastic flange to fit into the metal housing, but the bulb will not turn and lock. I've wrecked two bulbs and one plastic housing already.

I am utterly stumped.

Normally, I'm pretty handy working on my Benzes (20 years' experience shade tree) but this has me beat at the moment.

Any tips? Pics would help. One question I do have is where should the wiring connector align on the D1S bulb once in place? If you are looking at the base head on, from the back looking out through the headlight, should the wiring connector be at 6 o'clock? 3? 9?

Thanks in advance. I have been cursing Mercedes steadily for the entire xenon headlight debacle. I have the active cornering lights as well, so there is more hardware mounted on these headlights than on some early Nasa spacecraft I am thinking...

GLO

We had a similar problem when replacing the bulbs on my W251.

One side went in a dream and the other was a b!tch.

In the end, the mounting was upside down (from memory).

Our issue was that it wouldnt seem to go in far enough, and it was a tight spot to fit you hand and twist.

Hope it helps enough to get you through.

N_Jay

These can help
http://www.ebay.com/itm/5m-6-LED-Wat...-/281531217977

jhon-acosta

Is the headlight system the same with my A-Klasse 180 (W176) 2014, cause I'm planning yo replace it with Phillips Blue Vision Ultra D1S