Replaced EIS & Key still won't start.
 

Hi, I have a 2011 ML350 that the key would turn in ignition, but not start or light up the dash. I got a second key made and it seemed better for about a week. It would take 3-4 attempts to start every other day or so. Last week my wife tried for 2 hours to start it and when I tried my key it started on 3rd attempt. I took it back in and had the Ignition Module replaced. Mercedes said no errors or faults and said STAR said to replace EIS in this case. It started with the New Key when we picked it up, we went to the store and it would not start again. The new key would not work again and only second key will work. Both keys are having the same symptoms but seem to switch back and forth which key works better.

Any ideas? Just spent $781 on the EIS and don't want them to just throw more parts at it. Thanks for any help or insight.

A similar theme EIS
 

Hi there
I had same problem with ML300 $1784 later problem fixed with a new EIS recoded. MBaus wont offer $$ support. Because I didn't purchase vehicle from their dealer, it is out of warranty. It can be expected of a vehicle of that age less than 5 years old at time of issue. 86k on clock. Blah blah blah. So presumably your fault was covered being a 2011 so why did you pay. Did they recode both keys?

Try cleaning the end of both smart keys. Sometimes the key gets pocket lint or other small debris in the tiny slot at the infra red projector inside the key. How the system works is: The key's communication with the vehicle is "Passive"(doesn't need fob's battery power). When the key inserted into the ignition barrel (EIS) an internal coil energizes the infra red circuitry and sends a coded signal to a receptor chip then a decoding chip inside the Electronic Ignition Switch. This enables communicate on the vehicle's CANBUS otherwise known as a "handshake". A lot of MB ignition switches suffer from cold solder connections between the EIS's main printed circuit board and the exciting coil (usually the internal white plug fractures at the solder connection). I've had success disassembling the EIS and re-soldering the plug back onto the printed circuit board.

Thumbdoctor - can you tell me, if the key or EIS was unable to 'handshake' would the car start then shut off after a few seconds or would it not start at all?
I am trying to diagnose my start, then cut off issue and would like to rule out needing a new key for the vehicle (2006 R350). I scanned for codes and there were none.

BUMP

W164 2010 ML 350 4matic
 

Same problem with no dash lights, windows don't work.
For me, it usually happens when its left out in the sun. never have problems when starting the car in the morning.

Thoughts anyone?
:nix:

W164 2010 ML 350 4matic

Good info in this thread - it's how I fixed my problem:

https://mbworld.org/forums/m-class-w...-grimlims.html

I have a 2010 Mercedes (Luxury Model) C300 . I have had this car for a year and a half now . I had no major problems with it until now . My car wouldn't start and I was parked in my home garage no one wanted to tow it out of the garage . When the car finally got out of the garage and to the Mercedes specialist located in Brooklyn NY they told me that the EIS needed to be replaced it will cost me $1200. I have read so many different forums and people are complaining about the same thing this should be recalled . My engine mounts broke last year November 2015 due to me hitting a pothole but my insurance covered that . That was $1400 to replace and repair. This is the first time I will shell out big money for this car . I am looking to trade it in next year this is absurd .

HOW to remove the EIS from ml300
 

The easiest way to remove is to pull the radio out, then unscrew the bezel around the EIS and remove it with your hand through the dash where the radio would be.

Ahh I assumed right hand drive would be on the opposite side of the radio, not out by the door. Can you access it via the outside of the dash? The outer panel that is accessible with the door open should pop off, if the switch is way out there, you may be able to reach it.

I'll try to pull it up in WIS, now I'm curious. If you remove the plastic panel under the dash can you reach up there? On a 221 that's what you have to do.

I had this issue! My key had a minor split in it, that allowed dust to enter. I had a number of strange CAN errors on the OBD monitor, and the car would intermittently fail to crank, or allow electrics to turn on. I took the key apart, and cleaned the insides and the red IR window, it then worked perfectly! :)

Some of the errors i was getting..:P202B-001- CAN BUS signal from ESP controller,speed signal error
==========================

P202C -001. CAN message from control module EIS ,: CAN signal interruption
==========================

P202D-001 CAN BUS signal from combination instrument controller,CAN BUS signal interrupt
==========================
P2041-001 N3/10 (ME controller),controller EEPROM error [P0605]

This enables communicate on the vehicle's CANBUS otherwise known as a "handshake". A lot of MB ignition switches suffer from cold solder connections between the EIS's main printed circuit board and the exciting coil (usually the internal white plug fractures at the solder connection).





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