Need Help Abs, esp, srs faults
 

hi guys, need some help with my 2011 ml350 bluetec, last week i got a red battery sign and had my alternator changed everything was fine until yesterday, I started the car and a few min later the triangle light came on along with abs and esp, they both kept flashing. about 7 messages came up like pre safe inoperable, run flat, abs, and then the srs light, and the shift lever would not shift out of park, so i left it off then about 30 min later i tried again and no lights car drove fine, then today it acted up again and its not going away. does anyone know what it could be? i did some search's and a lot of people with other Mercedes say brake switch but just wanted to know if i should look out for anything else? i tested the battery and alternator is charging its around 13.7 to 13.8 on start so i am not sure what it could be.
thanks

Can you post your VIN # for ref please? Who did the alternator R&R? Was it a dealer or a shop that normally works MB cars?

yeah its 4jgbb2f89ba531488, it was done at a independant shop. i scanned it today and got a bunch of codes.
any idea if the key port can cause this I have a problem with the port key i havent fixed yet, so it only starts via the push start button.

904d control module n80 not sending any data
900887 no can message is received from control module a80
7202 ecm not identefied or incorrect control module
5535 one or more signal transmitted be control module n80 via can bus is implausible
5996 check compnent n49
5415 check comonent b24/15
5035 no CAN message is recieved from n80
5020 chassis Can bus: Can bus off

I also had more faults but i think its all related headlights, transmission, other modules.

Well, with that many errors I would take it right back to the shop where they worked on it and have them figure out what is going on. I've only got a wild hunch, and that is that a connector was not reattached properly and has come loose.

I did a load test and the alternator is charging, battery is fine got it brand new 5 months ago, the problem is it went back to normal when I got there so they couldn't really do anything, I asked them and they said it might be the brake switch, but any idea if the key port can cause this or the steering angle sensor? my key doesn't work at all, it only works with the push start button.
thanks

I find it implausible that a problem with your key would cause that mess of codes, but if you suspect that, open up the key and change the battery. Instructions for that are in your vehicle's owner's manual.

These warning lights come on as soon as there is a low voltage detection. This could have been a battery problem all along.

How are you determining the charging voltage (13.7v), by way of the Instrument Cluster?

After the truck lays overnight, check the voltage before starting the truck. If it's below 12.7v, then a battery is in order or there is a parasitic drain on the battery.

As to the second code, is A80 correct or is it a typo and should be N80?

A while back I thought I had some sort of parsitic drain on my battery as well. Turns out it was self-inflicted -- my phone charger adapter connected to the rear seat 12vdc plug, which apparently is always active even when the car is turned off!

Yes, the 12v ports are hot at all time and the cig lighter is only active with key on or eng. running.

Learned the hard way. :)

I checked it on the cluster and my obd2 scanner shows voltage aswell i know its around 13.6 when cars on start, I didnt check voltage before I started it in the morning but if the battery was under 12.7 shouldnt it go away after I start it because it's charging? The battery is new but maybe the bad alternator damaged it I will check the voltage and go swap it out.
also yesterday afternoon it disappeared left it on start drove around it was perfectly fine and this morning it happened again I also noticed the steering wheel buttons, turn signals was not working at certain times and also the wipers would go off every couple of min for some reason.

It was a80 the code was 900887 no CAN message received from control module a80(ism) there was a lot of lost communication faults

Don't check battery voltage with a scanner, for this one do so directly on the battery.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...6afc5b23f5.jpg
A80 is the Intelligent Servo Module on the transmission.

There are too many codes for problems to occur on so many components. Have you erased the codes?

Have you checked the battery installation yourself?

I changed the battery myself I put a new one back in march when i got the car, I also checked in there yesterday for water or anything but its still clean. I left the car at home all day today after the codes came on in morning and I just got in and checked the battery voltage thru the cluster and its going 12.2, 12.1 then 12 with ignition on so like you said it might be the battery causing all this, its weird it happened a couple days after the alternator change. i am guessing the alternator might have damaged it?

i will get a multimeter and check voltage at the battery to be sure. will let you guys know. thanks

Another thing that matters greatly is what battery make you installed. Everyone chooses a non M/B battery because it is cheaper.

A genuine M/B battery weighs a ton because all of these new vehicles have 40 different modules which have to be kept somewhat alive when the veh. is off.

What battery did you buy and how much did it cost?

1. hook up scanner, turn key to on pos.

2. read and document all codes if other than what you have posted.

3. erase all codes and verify that all have been deleted.

4. turn key to off pos., wait 10 secs. Turn key to the on pos. & and check for codes again & document those codes that have not been erased.

5. start eng. and see if any new codes appear.

Post results.

That was going to be my next question. :) On my 550 the printout that shows all the info about my VIN lists code 673, high capacity battery. Hasn't given me any trouble through hot summers and freeze-your-thoughts winters in Boston, Berlin and Poland, and it's about 9.5 years old now (was delivered to the dealer on 3/09). High tech needs high quality power.

This is what happens when you "go cheap. All batteries are not created equal. But everyone thinks they struck gold when they find the same size battery for less than half the price M/B charges for theirs.

Its not a Mercedes battery, I got it from Canadian tire so its a motomaster agm battery I got it for 280. Specs are cca 850, ca 975, rc 175

Awaiting results of the codes check.

There are two batteries in your car, a main battery and a backup battery. The backup battery, if I am reading this correctly, is an AGM battery, 1.2ah. Runs about $46 on the web, your mileage may vary. The main battery is a 95ah, I think it could be either AGM or lead-acid but the original battery was AGM. They run around $250 on the web, Mercedes brand, refurbished, with a $35 core charge. Did you check your backup battery as well?

I found the battery spec on the site it says 92ah agm, i didnt check the back up i tested it when i changed the main battery and it was good, this morning i check the voltage before starting it and its between 12 and 12.2 so under 12.7. i put a trickle charger on it so i can take it to work and scan it and then take the battery out and go swap it.