2009 Ml320 Blu Tech oil coming thru PCV valve
I replaced my PCV component and valve recently because the old one was allowing oil through to the turbo. I am having the same problem with the new one. It is a Mercedes part not after market. Is there a way to test the component on the hose and the electric supply to that component ? Or is there another solve to this?
Thank you in advance, George |
George, PCV valves went away decades ago. What is the part number of the valve you replaced and what was the code number?
|
The part number is W0133 1977304 described as Crankcase vent valve and PCV valve. The hose has an electric component on it. I guess it should be preventing oil from being sucked from the crankcase to the turbo. But oil is getting through. I replaced the whole part the plastic part on the engine as well as the hose. No code number is coming up.
|
This number, W0133 1977304, is an aftermarket part number and not a M/B number.
Is your truck a CDI or Blue? |
This is the part # that I installed B2017460220 The Engine is a Blu Tech diesel 3.0L.
|
I don't know why the color and #'s in parentheses keeps coming up.
|
Geo, please post the info on this valve. Who did you buy it from, post the link. Any info will help.
|
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...rm=B2017460220 Link to where it was purchased. It is a Mercedes brand part. Not an aftermarket. The orange piece is where it plugs in.
|
On the part tag there is a part # A642 xxx xx xx. Please fill in the rest of the part number.
|
I had mine replaced in 5/17. The part number is A642 010 1891.
Truck has run smoother ever since. |
part number
The part number is A642 010 1891.
|
Did your replacement stop the turbo from pulling oil from the crankcase?
|
Geoeray - I had it replaced only because of the mileage on the truck - 90K at the time. I had read where the rubber diaphragm stops working properly and then allows the turbo to draw in not only the oil vapor, but actual oil. This causes several problems which I wanted to avoid. As I had stated, I have noticed a smoother performance ever since the replacement.
This video explains it further: |
Thanks. The video is helpful. I had not come across this. I may have a defective Original Equipment replacement part. Diagnosis ahead.
|
Originally Posted by Geoeray
(Post 7692347)
Thanks. The video is helpful. I had not come across this. I may have a defective Original Equipment replacement part. Diagnosis ahead.
|
I would go about the repair differently if I did it again. I replaced the PCV and Replaced the red gasket/seal between the plenum and the turbo. Replace the red seal at the connection of the plenum and the turbo. To remove the plenum loosen each air filter enclosure and the push them off of the plenum moving one left and the other right. unplug the electric connections to the plenum. Loosen the plenum from the turbo. Should come right off now. Replace the red seal. Put it in the correct notches in the plenum and slide it on to the turbo. Make sure it is on the turbo without any of the red seal or kinked, pinched. Be gentle the plastic plenum has become brittle.
After I replaced the PCV I replaced the red seal. The turbo was still sucking oil after the PCA replacement. I think the plenum air leak contributed to that. Now having done all of this the turbo sucks the oil down to about a quarter of an inch above the bottom of the hash mark on the dipstick and stops. So. The engine should run fine on 8.25 quarts. But I still check the oil level and don't fill it all the way up. Does your Check Engine light come on frequently for other reasons? |
Originally Posted by Geoeray
(Post 7766955)
I would go about the repair differently if I did it again. I replaced the PCV and Replaced the red gasket/seal between the plenum and the turbo. Replace the red seal at the connection of the plenum and the turbo. To remove the plenum loosen each air filter enclosure and the push them off of the plenum moving one left and the other right. unplug the electric connections to the plenum. Loosen the plenum from the turbo. Should come right off now. Replace the red seal. Put it in the correct notches in the plenum and slide it on to the turbo. Make sure it is on the turbo without any of the red seal or kinked, pinched. Be gentle the plastic plenum has become brittle.
After I replaced the PCV I replaced the red seal. The turbo was still sucking oil after the PCA replacement. I think the plenum air leak contributed to that. Now having done all of this the turbo sucks the oil down to about a quarter of an inch above the bottom of the hash mark on the dipstick and stops. So. The engine should run fine on 8.25 quarts. But I still check the oil level and don't fill it all the way up. Does your Check Engine light come on frequently for other reasons? |
Oil kept showing up underneath turbo seal after replacement of CCV & 'bat wing' MAF intake so decided an oil catch can mounted next to passenger side wheel well will at least move any potential leak away from engine valley area where it could potentially be mistaken for something $$$ to fix like turbo pedestal or oil cooler leak. This engine (w/181,500 m) has obvious blow-by as when I loosen oil-fill cap, it tends to dance around & sling oil everywhere @idle. The oil catch can is working well & catches ~50cc every 500 miles or so & 0 leaks around turbo seal now so I can shine a light down into valley & see both turbo pedestal & channel around base of oil cooler have no more oil pooling around them anymore.The red plug that plumbs into batwing has a tendency to back itself out gradually after many miles so clearly there is a fair amount of positive pressure pushing through catch can circuit during higher RPMs but at least it's leaving the oil in the can now. I bought the catch can on ebay for $30 & paid about $50 @ West Marine for 8 feet of 5/8" 200psi hi-temp rubber hose. I believe it's a worthwhile investment for those dealing with oil showing up under turbo seal. 2 5/8" brass barrel connectors & 4 hose clamps are also required to plumb tubing to CCV which must be cut midway to graft oil catch can by-pass circuit into place.
https://i68.tinypic.com/fz9stv.jpg |
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...49caf85c29.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...1dbd988d36.jpg I had the same issue with my 2008 ML320 CDI. After replacing the PCV puck, I still had excessive oil being pulled into the turbo. I recently pulled the intakes in order to replace the oil cooler seals and the amount of oil based gunk in the ports from was shocking. That puck doesn't seem to do its job very well, so now I've also installed a Provent 200 in front of the fuse box. |
MAF ERROR CODE P0101
Hello Gents,
My check engine light went on and the error code my tester gave me was P0101 MAF air flow sensor. I began by changing the air filters which were very dirty. I also cleaned both sensors very well. In the process I found oil in the entrance to the turbo. Yet the check engine light still on and the error code is the same. Do you think that a defective A642 010 1891 secondary air injection control valve would cause this error ? Thanks in advance for your help |
Originally Posted by Enrique Falcon
(Post 7913154)
Hello Gents,
My check engine light went on and the error code my tester gave me was P0101 MAF air flow sensor. I began by changing the air filters which were very dirty. I also cleaned both sensors very well. In the process I found oil in the entrance to the turbo. Yet the check engine light still on and the error code is the same. Do you think that a defective A642 010 1891 secondary air injection control valve would cause this error ? Thanks in advance for your help |
What exactly is the "Star System Diagnostic", where does it plug in, what does it look like and how different is it to an OBDII reader device?
|
Originally Posted by 2008 ML 320 CDI
(Post 7919786)
What exactly is the "Star System Diagnostic", where does it plug in, what does it look like and how different is it to an OBDII reader device?
it's what the dealer uses to work on Mercedes vehicles. cost is about $20K, which Is why many independent mechanics dont have. this is what I bought and only after I used it I was able to clear and work on egr, run idle drift, and def system issues that are unavoidable on the w164. came with a hard drive and i purchased a Dell with rs232 port for 40 bucks and system works beautifully.about 400 bucks for everything.a must for the DIY...the car parts are expensive. generic readers only pick up generic p series codes, which dont help with this vehicle. a descent scanner that can read better codes of it runs about 300 like the ancel I purchase but limited since it cant erase adaptation, codes, cals, relearn. etc so in short you need the star system if you have this car. |
All times are GMT -4. The time now is 08:16 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands