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I had a c class and e class and now have a 2009 ml 320 bluetec and I love it. I have been the second owner. However, there is an engine
check light code and I need help fixing it! The code is reading from the common rail diesel injection, specifically code 150200 where it states that the Hfm sfi has been exceeded. I’ve invested a lot into this car already and am hoping for some assistance so I can keep it and don’t have to get another.
Check the connectors at both Mas Air Flow Sensors. If there is no visual problem, erase the code and drive the car as usual and see if the code returns.
Check the connectors at both Mas Air Flow Sensors. If there is no visual problem, erase the code and drive the car as usual and see if the code returns.
Yes. I am an idiot and listened to a person on YouTube for a fuel cleaner. After a highway trip I turned off my car and turned on my car. Here is what I put in
I had asked if it was safe to put in Mercedes and they said yes.
I tried clearing the code already and it just comes back on the next time I start my car. Please note that I replace my MAF 4 months ago with a brand new one.
Did you know that you have two MAF Sensors? Which one did you replace, B2/6 or B2/7?
Follow the instructions in the PDF using a DVOM to read voltage at each sensor, but must be done one at a time.
Yes I did.. my version might be a little different. Both are connected in this y pipe and I had to replace this whole thing so both were replaced. There was no way to clean them either. Cost me 900.00 for no reason. However the code ended up being a faulty ad blue heater. Then I got an ad blue delete.
Oh yes. The MAF wasn’t even the issue. That was a terrible shop I went to IMO. My new shop is great.
However, this new shop told me it might be the MAF too but they don’t wanna touch it cause it’s under warranty and advised me to go back there. Only thing is that it is a 5 hour drive for me since I’ve moved. Also I’m scared to give my car back to them cause they will mess it up.
But this is a new MAF piece 5 -8 months old maybe
MAF Sensors can be purchased individually. You were taken for a ride.
Oh yes. The MAF wasn’t even the issue. That was a terrible shop I went to IMO. My new shop is great.
However, this new shop told me it might be the MAF too but they don’t wanna touch it cause it’s under warranty and advised me to go back there. Only thing is that it is a 5 hour drive for me since I’ve moved. Also I’m scared to give my car back to them cause they will mess it up.
But this is a new MAF piece 5 -8 months old maybe
I keep posting information and help to find your problem and the only thing you do is keep talking about who installed the MAF Sensor.
Why did you ask for help. I'm done here.
Because you are stating it might be a MAF issue. And I’m letting you know that there is a brand new one in there... but, sure you can give up, no issue with me. I can wait for someone that actually dealt with this issue and go from there.
I posted the procedure in post #4 to check both sensors. Why didn't you conduct those tests which were very easy and not time consuming?
What year are you searching up for that procedure? I believe in earlier 164 the MAFs are accessible however for 2009 these MAFs are actually inside this Y pipe which is not shown as your pictures. It’s actually impossible to get to it and the whole piece needs to be replaced.
You are failing to understand that the voltage must be checked at both MAFs. That is why I supplied you with the procedure.
Disconnect the connector on one MAF and take a voltage reading. Then disconnect the other and take a reading. Then see which one is faulty. Whether or not the sensors are built into it has nothing to do with testing them.
You are failing to understand that the voltage must be checked at both MAFs. That is why I supplied you with the procedure.
Disconnect the connector on one MAF and take a voltage reading. Then disconnect the other and take a reading. Then see which one is faulty. Whether or not the sensors are built into it has nothing to do with testing them.
You are failing to understand that the voltage must be checked at both MAFs. That is why I supplied you with the procedure.
Disconnect the connector on one MAF and take a voltage reading. Then disconnect the other and take a reading. Then see which one is faulty. Whether or not the sensors are built into it has nothing to do with testing them.
What is the proper voltage they should be reading At?
hey,
I have the same car you do. love the car, but damn these quirks. im also dealing with the same code. i turn on ignition, delete code, turn car on and check engine light is off. I turn engine off and crank on and code/mil light is on. have you checked your voltages? I've checked both left and right and have 12 volts on both sides. major, what's after both sides checking good? I hope it ain't maf replacement, since many posts I've read regarding this code seem to not be resolved by maf sensors.
I didn’t check the voltage. I tried telling my mechanic said it doesn’t make sense lol.
We are thinking it may be a faulty fuel injector! Hopefully keep you posted on that.
Let me know if you come up with anything.
Originally Posted by Ruan Tecillo
hey,
I have the same car you do. love the car, but damn these quirks. im also dealing with the same code. i turn on ignition, delete code, turn car on and check engine light is off. I turn engine off and crank on and code/mil light is on. have you checked your voltages? I've checked both left and right and have 12 volts on both sides. major, what's after both sides checking good? I hope it ain't maf replacement, since many posts I've read regarding this code seem to not be resolved by maf sensors.
06-04-2019, 11:12 PM
