knighton

2011 ML350 Bluetec:

I am attempting to fix a vehicle that will not drive. It broke down close to 300 miles away from my independent mechanic and of course, from the dealership. It is sitting in a lumber yard for now. Am looking at a $2100 towing charge.

The car won't go into drive and every light is on the dash. "Drive to shop without shifting gears" along with ABS, BAS, SRS, ESP, etc.... Scanner will not connect to the ECU well actually, it has once or twice and I did clear codes but, it still won't drive. Third time this has happened. First time it sat overnight and was able to clear all codes and drive. Then 2 weeks ago, same issue. I put a new battery in (original was 9 years old) and scanner connected, cleared codes and it drove great for two weeks. So now this is the third time. I pulled the battery and it was nearly dead. I charged it overnight, hooked it back up and no success. It started up and I was able to clear codes but it would not shift into drive or reverse and after a few minutes, it would no longer start and all it did was beep. I pulled the dash fuse, locked it up and headed back home.

I've searched and searched and searched for a solution and spoke to 3 Mercedes Techs... and the car is still sitting there. Towing 300 miles on a flatdeck and repairs is out of my budget and I am thinking this will be my last Mercedes.

So, my thinking is to install a new voltage regulator. About $105 USD and should be a simple procedure. With the battery freshly charged and running voltage was 13.6V. After a few stops and restarts to get the scanner to connect, the battery drained and would not start.

Shortly before these issues began, the Blind Spot became inoperative. Perhaps these sensors/modules need replacing?

Any suggestions? Really disheartened with my Mercedes experience.

chassis

Battery condition is everything when it comes to M-B vehicles and electrical systems.

Your vehicle has an auxiliary battery that needs to be in as good condition as the main starting battery. It is located adjacent to the main starting battery.

If I were you I would replace all three batteries: main battery (again, because it drained once), auxiliary battery and key fob battery. Then clear codes and go from there.

knighton

I replaced the main and aux batteries two weeks ago. Key FOB battery is about a month old.

I charged the new main battery to full but did not charge the aux battery.

How do I charge the aux battery? Can I put it on a charger and set to 6A?

chassis

If you replaced the aux battery it is likely OK. I am not aware of a separate charging procedure for the aux battery.

You mentioned that you changed the battery, and it ran for 2 weeks. Did I get that right? The vehicle is quite some distance from you, correct? I would retrace my steps if I were you, and repeat what worked in the past. Then get the car into your driveway, or a repair shop, before the situation repeats itself.

knighton

Correct. I did replace the aux battery with the main battery and it did run for two weeks. Now, same issue as before and I am out of solutions.

Will recharge both batteries, put in a new voltage regulator and if this doesn't work, $2100 towing fee coming up and most likely, a $3000 bill at the shop.

Will fix it and sell it and buy a Grand Cherokee. I've had it with Mercedes. Been just an awful experience.

Maj. Dundee

Why do you keep clearing the codes and not document every one of them? How are we supposed to help you without these codes?

knighton

Hello Maj. Dundee,

Thank you for assisting here. I did record the DTCs from the ECU. Here they are:

C121
C141
C103
C126
D13A
C426
C002
C164
C001
D10B
C155
C100
C167

These are what I pulled off when the scanner could access the ECU. Tomorrow I drive back out to the car to recharge the main and aux batteries and hopefully be able to connect to the ECU and pull more codes from other modules.

Maj. Dundee

knighton, none of these codes are valid.

knighton

Ok, I guess this is the limit of the iCarSoft scanner. The bulk of the text with these messages reads:

No CAN mesage was received from control unit N22/1(AAC [KLA} control unit) (216/221) or from control unit N22(AAC {KLA} control and operating unit)
CAN controller:: CAN bus OFF NOTE in the case of the fault "Bus OFF" the control module is isolated from the CAN bus because of a major communication fault.
No CAN message was received from control unit N80(SCM {MRM} control unit.

Will post photos.

knighton

Maj. Dundee

Those CAN codes are unimportant, for now, bu they are stored as a residual effect because one or more components are storing codes.

What are the explanations for the others, not including CAN codes?

knighton

I really don't know. I pulled these off and then could not connect to the ECU. I don't have any more info to give you.

I am heading to the car tomorrow, 60 mile drive. I will recharge both batteries and see what else I can pull off the scanner.

Here is what I do know:
1. The Blind Spot is inoperative and has been for about 6 months. I am considering ordering a radar sensor module.
2. When I put brand new batteries in, the same issue I had was resolved. This gave me two weeks for trouble free driving. This tells me the battery is not charging.
3. If the battery is not charging properly, I will order a new voltage regulator.
4. An online Tech said there is a short in one of the modules. Well, one of the blind spot modules or both, are not working.

Tomorrow, when I put fully charged batteries in, what info do you need Maj. Dundee from the scanner?

knighton

Hello Maj. Dundee,

Batteries are fine. Both main and aux batteries were fully charged and the car still wont go into drive. After more research, I believe the issue to be the ISM. This link shows the exact issues I am having:

ISM Issues

This problem began after the transmission was serviced. The tech most likely unplugged the ISM and when it was reconnected, some problem began... or the module just failed. Read a post of someone who experienced the exact thing, got a few miles from the dealership and the car would go into drive and the warning popped up, "Drive to shop without shifting gears". So, I am going to purchase an ISM, get it coded to the VIN and install it.

2008 ML 320 CDI

So your transmission was serviced recently. Just a transmission oil change? I've done my own transmission oil change and don't remember having to disconnect any ISM, but if it was disconnected in your case, I would first check that the connector to the ISM is dry and properly seated. Even unplugging it and then reconnecting it might improve things. Is the transmission not perhaps leaking oil after the service? I understand this is not something you can necessarily do easily because you're not close to your vehicle and from the link you provided, it seems the ISM is in an awkward location especially in these winter conditions. Are you getting and coding a new ISM from the dealership? I sure hope the ISM is indeed the problem and that the replacement solves your problem in this very inconvenient circumstance.

knighton

The transmission oil was changed by Indie mechanic. No oil spots on the driveway. Really do not know if ISM was unplugged. I assume it was. Perhaps checking the connection to the ISM is a good start. Maybe it needs an unplug, a drying out with a blow dryer, and then reconnect. Issue is the car is so far away from me, over an hour each way. Need to bring a floor jack and stands and place them on large flat blocks of wood to prevent them from sinking in the dirty/gravel. Will wait for a "warm" day here in Canada to climb under the car and take a serious look.

Thank you for the input. Could be as simple and disconnecting and drying.

Maj. Dundee

How do you plan on doing these things when the car is 60 mins. away?

I

2008 ML 320 CDI

I'm not familiar with the ISM, but I would imagine if there was something wrong with it there would be a particular code for that. In your shoes I'd rather first invest in an OBDII scanner that will give proper MB codes before jumping to buy a new ISM. If the vehicle is safe and you have alternative transport, I'd take a bit of time to sort this out to be easy on the pocket. Just as an example, I once bought 6 new glow plugs for a problem which turned out to be a simple earth wire that had gone a little loose.
I believe you're in Calgary. I'm in Okotoks. You're welcome to try my OBDII scanner for what it's worth. It's an Autotel model AutoLink AL619 from Princess Auto. It's probably still not the right tool, but it may be useful.

chassis

Knighton I have done some repairs in challenging conditions, so can identify with your situation. What worked for me is to gather resources (tools, information, helpers) and have a plan for the work. This helps increase the chances for success.

Keep plugging away. Also bear in mind that spending the money for a long distance tow may turn out to be the best option.

2008 ML 320 CDI

It seems the iCarsoft MB II scanner for around US$150 comes highly recommended elsewhere on these forums. It is reportedly particularly well suited to Mercedes vehicles and provides good, indepth information. A Star Diagnostic System is tops, but expensive.
If the engine is running, I'd disconnect the prop shafts at the front and rear differentials and tow the vehicle home.

knighton

First I am going to pack a lunch. Then wait for a “warm” day to tackle it. Floor jacks, jack stands, flat pieces of wood and a tarp to lay on. Will see about borrowing a generator to plug a hair dryer in to dry a wet plug or connector. Going to connect/disconnect the ISM module a few times and try to start the car. Both batteries are fully charged.

A friend has a car hauler and a reliable Dodge RAM 1500. We will use chain ratchets to pull it On the hauler and chain it down. 400 km drive to the indie mechanic is an option.

knighton

Thank you for the support chassis. I am doing just this. The vehicle is sitting somewhat securely in a sawmill yard less than 2 miles from the Montana border. Batteries are out and it is locked up.

Tools have been gathered. I now have an offer from a fellow Canadian to use a better scanner than my MBII. Resources are pooling now that I am more certain than ever it’s the ISM. I am also prepared to disconnect the prop shafts and haul the bucket of bolts 4 hours north to a shop.

clowrym

We had a similar problem on my wifes 2011, the dealer replaced part of the Blindspot assist under a good will warranty and our problem went away

knighton

Tremendous. Will take you up on your offer. I am actually in Sparwood and the car is about 2 kms from the Montana border at Roosvillle. My MB II is limited as you know. A good friend is in an acreage just east of Calgary a few minutes from Mahogany. I’ll be heading there on the 30th. Am in Edmonton at the moment.

chassis

Good option to obtain a car hauler and tow the vehicle yourself.

2008 ML 320 CDI

Hi Knighton. I don't mean to interfere. When the vehicle is lifted off the ground, you should preferably also have 4 large 'blocks' to place under the wheels. Those plastic car ramps available at Canadian Tyre would work well for this purpose. Jack stands alone can be dangerous if not stood on a concrete floor.