ML350 BlueTec Undriveable
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 38
Likes: 5
From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2011 ML350 Bluetec, 2008 Dodge Caliber SRT4
ML350 BlueTec Undriveable
2011 ML350 Bluetec:
I am attempting to fix a vehicle that will not drive. It broke down close to 300 miles away from my independent mechanic and of course, from the dealership. It is sitting in a lumber yard for now. Am looking at a $2100 towing charge.
The car won't go into drive and every light is on the dash. "Drive to shop without shifting gears" along with ABS, BAS, SRS, ESP, etc.... Scanner will not connect to the ECU well actually, it has once or twice and I did clear codes but, it still won't drive. Third time this has happened. First time it sat overnight and was able to clear all codes and drive. Then 2 weeks ago, same issue. I put a new battery in (original was 9 years old) and scanner connected, cleared codes and it drove great for two weeks. So now this is the third time. I pulled the battery and it was nearly dead. I charged it overnight, hooked it back up and no success. It started up and I was able to clear codes but it would not shift into drive or reverse and after a few minutes, it would no longer start and all it did was beep. I pulled the dash fuse, locked it up and headed back home.
I've searched and searched and searched for a solution and spoke to 3 Mercedes Techs... and the car is still sitting there. Towing 300 miles on a flatdeck and repairs is out of my budget and I am thinking this will be my last Mercedes.
So, my thinking is to install a new voltage regulator. About $105 USD and should be a simple procedure. With the battery freshly charged and running voltage was 13.6V. After a few stops and restarts to get the scanner to connect, the battery drained and would not start.
Shortly before these issues began, the Blind Spot became inoperative. Perhaps these sensors/modules need replacing?
Any suggestions? Really disheartened with my Mercedes experience.
I am attempting to fix a vehicle that will not drive. It broke down close to 300 miles away from my independent mechanic and of course, from the dealership. It is sitting in a lumber yard for now. Am looking at a $2100 towing charge.
The car won't go into drive and every light is on the dash. "Drive to shop without shifting gears" along with ABS, BAS, SRS, ESP, etc.... Scanner will not connect to the ECU well actually, it has once or twice and I did clear codes but, it still won't drive. Third time this has happened. First time it sat overnight and was able to clear all codes and drive. Then 2 weeks ago, same issue. I put a new battery in (original was 9 years old) and scanner connected, cleared codes and it drove great for two weeks. So now this is the third time. I pulled the battery and it was nearly dead. I charged it overnight, hooked it back up and no success. It started up and I was able to clear codes but it would not shift into drive or reverse and after a few minutes, it would no longer start and all it did was beep. I pulled the dash fuse, locked it up and headed back home.
I've searched and searched and searched for a solution and spoke to 3 Mercedes Techs... and the car is still sitting there. Towing 300 miles on a flatdeck and repairs is out of my budget and I am thinking this will be my last Mercedes.
So, my thinking is to install a new voltage regulator. About $105 USD and should be a simple procedure. With the battery freshly charged and running voltage was 13.6V. After a few stops and restarts to get the scanner to connect, the battery drained and would not start.
Shortly before these issues began, the Blind Spot became inoperative. Perhaps these sensors/modules need replacing?
Any suggestions? Really disheartened with my Mercedes experience.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Sep 2018
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From: unbegrenzt
2017 GLE350 4MATIC
Battery condition is everything when it comes to M-B vehicles and electrical systems.
Your vehicle has an auxiliary battery that needs to be in as good condition as the main starting battery. It is located adjacent to the main starting battery.
If I were you I would replace all three batteries: main battery (again, because it drained once), auxiliary battery and key fob battery. Then clear codes and go from there.
Your vehicle has an auxiliary battery that needs to be in as good condition as the main starting battery. It is located adjacent to the main starting battery.
If I were you I would replace all three batteries: main battery (again, because it drained once), auxiliary battery and key fob battery. Then clear codes and go from there.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 38
Likes: 5
From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2011 ML350 Bluetec, 2008 Dodge Caliber SRT4
I replaced the main and aux batteries two weeks ago. Key FOB battery is about a month old.
I charged the new main battery to full but did not charge the aux battery.
How do I charge the aux battery? Can I put it on a charger and set to 6A?
I charged the new main battery to full but did not charge the aux battery.
How do I charge the aux battery? Can I put it on a charger and set to 6A?
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 14,694
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From: unbegrenzt
2017 GLE350 4MATIC
If you replaced the aux battery it is likely OK. I am not aware of a separate charging procedure for the aux battery.
You mentioned that you changed the battery, and it ran for 2 weeks. Did I get that right? The vehicle is quite some distance from you, correct? I would retrace my steps if I were you, and repeat what worked in the past. Then get the car into your driveway, or a repair shop, before the situation repeats itself.
You mentioned that you changed the battery, and it ran for 2 weeks. Did I get that right? The vehicle is quite some distance from you, correct? I would retrace my steps if I were you, and repeat what worked in the past. Then get the car into your driveway, or a repair shop, before the situation repeats itself.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 38
Likes: 5
From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2011 ML350 Bluetec, 2008 Dodge Caliber SRT4
Correct. I did replace the aux battery with the main battery and it did run for two weeks. Now, same issue as before and I am out of solutions.
Will recharge both batteries, put in a new voltage regulator and if this doesn't work, $2100 towing fee coming up and most likely, a $3000 bill at the shop.
Will fix it and sell it and buy a Grand Cherokee. I've had it with Mercedes. Been just an awful experience.
Will recharge both batteries, put in a new voltage regulator and if this doesn't work, $2100 towing fee coming up and most likely, a $3000 bill at the shop.
Will fix it and sell it and buy a Grand Cherokee. I've had it with Mercedes. Been just an awful experience.
Last edited by knighton; Dec 22, 2019 at 05:08 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 38
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From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2011 ML350 Bluetec, 2008 Dodge Caliber SRT4
Hello Maj. Dundee,
Thank you for assisting here. I did record the DTCs from the ECU. Here they are:
C121
C141
C103
C126
D13A
C426
C002
C164
C001
D10B
C155
C100
C167
These are what I pulled off when the scanner could access the ECU. Tomorrow I drive back out to the car to recharge the main and aux batteries and hopefully be able to connect to the ECU and pull more codes from other modules.
Thank you for assisting here. I did record the DTCs from the ECU. Here they are:
C121
C141
C103
C126
D13A
C426
C002
C164
C001
D10B
C155
C100
C167
These are what I pulled off when the scanner could access the ECU. Tomorrow I drive back out to the car to recharge the main and aux batteries and hopefully be able to connect to the ECU and pull more codes from other modules.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 38
Likes: 5
From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2011 ML350 Bluetec, 2008 Dodge Caliber SRT4
Ok, I guess this is the limit of the iCarSoft scanner. The bulk of the text with these messages reads:
No CAN mesage was received from control unit N22/1(AAC [KLA} control unit) (216/221) or from control unit N22(AAC {KLA} control and operating unit)
CAN controller:: CAN bus OFF NOTE in the case of the fault "Bus OFF" the control module is isolated from the CAN bus because of a major communication fault.
No CAN message was received from control unit N80(SCM {MRM} control unit.
Will post photos.
No CAN mesage was received from control unit N22/1(AAC [KLA} control unit) (216/221) or from control unit N22(AAC {KLA} control and operating unit)
CAN controller:: CAN bus OFF NOTE in the case of the fault "Bus OFF" the control module is isolated from the CAN bus because of a major communication fault.
No CAN message was received from control unit N80(SCM {MRM} control unit.
Will post photos.
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Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 7,107
Likes: 765
From: Bronx, N.Y.
2002 ML 320 & 2006 ML500
Those CAN codes are unimportant, for now, bu they are stored as a residual effect because one or more components are storing codes.
What are the explanations for the others, not including CAN codes?
What are the explanations for the others, not including CAN codes?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 38
Likes: 5
From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2011 ML350 Bluetec, 2008 Dodge Caliber SRT4
I really don't know. I pulled these off and then could not connect to the ECU. I don't have any more info to give you.
I am heading to the car tomorrow, 60 mile drive. I will recharge both batteries and see what else I can pull off the scanner.
Here is what I do know:
1. The Blind Spot is inoperative and has been for about 6 months. I am considering ordering a radar sensor module.
2. When I put brand new batteries in, the same issue I had was resolved. This gave me two weeks for trouble free driving. This tells me the battery is not charging.
3. If the battery is not charging properly, I will order a new voltage regulator.
4. An online Tech said there is a short in one of the modules. Well, one of the blind spot modules or both, are not working.
Tomorrow, when I put fully charged batteries in, what info do you need Maj. Dundee from the scanner?
I am heading to the car tomorrow, 60 mile drive. I will recharge both batteries and see what else I can pull off the scanner.
Here is what I do know:
1. The Blind Spot is inoperative and has been for about 6 months. I am considering ordering a radar sensor module.
2. When I put brand new batteries in, the same issue I had was resolved. This gave me two weeks for trouble free driving. This tells me the battery is not charging.
3. If the battery is not charging properly, I will order a new voltage regulator.
4. An online Tech said there is a short in one of the modules. Well, one of the blind spot modules or both, are not working.
Tomorrow, when I put fully charged batteries in, what info do you need Maj. Dundee from the scanner?
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 38
Likes: 5
From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2011 ML350 Bluetec, 2008 Dodge Caliber SRT4
Hello Maj. Dundee,
Batteries are fine. Both main and aux batteries were fully charged and the car still wont go into drive. After more research, I believe the issue to be the ISM. This link shows the exact issues I am having:
ISM Issues
This problem began after the transmission was serviced. The tech most likely unplugged the ISM and when it was reconnected, some problem began... or the module just failed. Read a post of someone who experienced the exact thing, got a few miles from the dealership and the car would go into drive and the warning popped up, "Drive to shop without shifting gears". So, I am going to purchase an ISM, get it coded to the VIN and install it.
Batteries are fine. Both main and aux batteries were fully charged and the car still wont go into drive. After more research, I believe the issue to be the ISM. This link shows the exact issues I am having:
ISM Issues
This problem began after the transmission was serviced. The tech most likely unplugged the ISM and when it was reconnected, some problem began... or the module just failed. Read a post of someone who experienced the exact thing, got a few miles from the dealership and the car would go into drive and the warning popped up, "Drive to shop without shifting gears". So, I am going to purchase an ISM, get it coded to the VIN and install it.
Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 219
Likes: 71
From: Bluffdale
2017 AMG C 43 (W205); 2019 E 300 (W213); 2008 ML 320 CDI (W164)
Hello Maj. Dundee,
Batteries are fine. Both main and aux batteries were fully charged and the car still wont go into drive. After more research, I believe the issue to be the ISM. This link shows the exact issues I am having:
ISM Issues
This problem began after the transmission was serviced. The tech most likely unplugged the ISM and when it was reconnected, some problem began... or the module just failed. Read a post of someone who experienced the exact thing, got a few miles from the dealership and the car would go into drive and the warning popped up, "Drive to shop without shifting gears". So, I am going to purchase an ISM, get it coded to the VIN and install it.
Batteries are fine. Both main and aux batteries were fully charged and the car still wont go into drive. After more research, I believe the issue to be the ISM. This link shows the exact issues I am having:
ISM Issues
This problem began after the transmission was serviced. The tech most likely unplugged the ISM and when it was reconnected, some problem began... or the module just failed. Read a post of someone who experienced the exact thing, got a few miles from the dealership and the car would go into drive and the warning popped up, "Drive to shop without shifting gears". So, I am going to purchase an ISM, get it coded to the VIN and install it.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 38
Likes: 5
From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2011 ML350 Bluetec, 2008 Dodge Caliber SRT4
The transmission oil was changed by Indie mechanic. No oil spots on the driveway. Really do not know if ISM was unplugged. I assume it was. Perhaps checking the connection to the ISM is a good start. Maybe it needs an unplug, a drying out with a blow dryer, and then reconnect. Issue is the car is so far away from me, over an hour each way. Need to bring a floor jack and stands and place them on large flat blocks of wood to prevent them from sinking in the dirty/gravel. Will wait for a "warm" day here in Canada to climb under the car and take a serious look.
Thank you for the input. Could be as simple and disconnecting and drying.
Thank you for the input. Could be as simple and disconnecting and drying.
Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 219
Likes: 71
From: Bluffdale
2017 AMG C 43 (W205); 2019 E 300 (W213); 2008 ML 320 CDI (W164)
ISM and OBDII scanner
I'm not familiar with the ISM, but I would imagine if there was something wrong with it there would be a particular code for that. In your shoes I'd rather first invest in an OBDII scanner that will give proper MB codes before jumping to buy a new ISM. If the vehicle is safe and you have alternative transport, I'd take a bit of time to sort this out to be easy on the pocket. Just as an example, I once bought 6 new glow plugs for a problem which turned out to be a simple earth wire that had gone a little loose.
I believe you're in Calgary. I'm in Okotoks. You're welcome to try my OBDII scanner for what it's worth. It's an Autotel model AutoLink AL619 from Princess Auto. It's probably still not the right tool, but it may be useful.
I believe you're in Calgary. I'm in Okotoks. You're welcome to try my OBDII scanner for what it's worth. It's an Autotel model AutoLink AL619 from Princess Auto. It's probably still not the right tool, but it may be useful.
Out Of Control!!
Joined: Sep 2018
Posts: 14,694
Likes: 4,584
From: unbegrenzt
2017 GLE350 4MATIC
Knighton I have done some repairs in challenging conditions, so can identify with your situation. What worked for me is to gather resources (tools, information, helpers) and have a plan for the work. This helps increase the chances for success.
Keep plugging away. Also bear in mind that spending the money for a long distance tow may turn out to be the best option.
Keep plugging away. Also bear in mind that spending the money for a long distance tow may turn out to be the best option.
Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 219
Likes: 71
From: Bluffdale
2017 AMG C 43 (W205); 2019 E 300 (W213); 2008 ML 320 CDI (W164)
It seems the iCarsoft MB II scanner for around US$150 comes highly recommended elsewhere on these forums. It is reportedly particularly well suited to Mercedes vehicles and provides good, indepth information. A Star Diagnostic System is tops, but expensive.
If the engine is running, I'd disconnect the prop shafts at the front and rear differentials and tow the vehicle home.
If the engine is running, I'd disconnect the prop shafts at the front and rear differentials and tow the vehicle home.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 38
Likes: 5
From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2011 ML350 Bluetec, 2008 Dodge Caliber SRT4
A friend has a car hauler and a reliable Dodge RAM 1500. We will use chain ratchets to pull it On the hauler and chain it down. 400 km drive to the indie mechanic is an option.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 38
Likes: 5
From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2011 ML350 Bluetec, 2008 Dodge Caliber SRT4
Knighton I have done some repairs in challenging conditions, so can identify with your situation. What worked for me is to gather resources (tools, information, helpers) and have a plan for the work. This helps increase the chances for success.
Keep plugging away. Also bear in mind that spending the money for a long distance tow may turn out to be the best option.
Keep plugging away. Also bear in mind that spending the money for a long distance tow may turn out to be the best option.
Tools have been gathered. I now have an offer from a fellow Canadian to use a better scanner than my MBII. Resources are pooling now that I am more certain than ever it’s the ISM. I am also prepared to disconnect the prop shafts and haul the bucket of bolts 4 hours north to a shop.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 38
Likes: 5
From: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
2011 ML350 Bluetec, 2008 Dodge Caliber SRT4
I'm not familiar with the ISM, but I would imagine if there was something wrong with it there would be a particular code for that. In your shoes I'd rather first invest in an OBDII scanner that will give proper MB codes before jumping to buy a new ISM. If the vehicle is safe and you have alternative transport, I'd take a bit of time to sort this out to be easy on the pocket. Just as an example, I once bought 6 new glow plugs for a problem which turned out to be a simple earth wire that had gone a little loose.
I believe you're in Calgary. I'm in Okotoks. You're welcome to try my OBDII scanner for what it's worth. It's an Autotel model AutoLink AL619 from Princess Auto. It's probably still not the right tool, but it may be useful.
I believe you're in Calgary. I'm in Okotoks. You're welcome to try my OBDII scanner for what it's worth. It's an Autotel model AutoLink AL619 from Princess Auto. It's probably still not the right tool, but it may be useful.
Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 219
Likes: 71
From: Bluffdale
2017 AMG C 43 (W205); 2019 E 300 (W213); 2008 ML 320 CDI (W164)
First I am going to pack a lunch. Then wait for a “warm” day to tackle it. Floor jacks, jack stands, flat pieces of wood and a tarp to lay on. Will see about borrowing a generator to plug a hair dryer in to dry a wet plug or connector. Going to connect/disconnect the ISM module a few times and try to start the car. Both batteries are fully charged.
A friend has a car hauler and a reliable Dodge RAM 1500. We will use chain ratchets to pull it On the hauler and chain it down. 400 km drive to the indie mechanic is an option.
A friend has a car hauler and a reliable Dodge RAM 1500. We will use chain ratchets to pull it On the hauler and chain it down. 400 km drive to the indie mechanic is an option.
