2010 ML 550 Tow Hitch
https://www.curtmfg.com/part/13342
https://www.curtmfg.com/part/13342
BUT, I think I found a used one on eBay that says it fits the ML550:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/29673350326...yABEgID4vD_BwE
BUT, I think I found a used one on eBay that says it fits the ML550:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/29673350326...yABEgID4vD_BwE
Good luck in your search!
I elected not to try to install the (ridiculously complicated) MB factory wiring harness. Instead I used a harness which does not directly connect to the factory wiring. Instead it draws its own power directly from the battery and uses inductive couplings to detect the various lights. It works flawlessly and hasn't impacted the (ridiculously complicated) MB wiring at all.
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The factory wiring system is ridiculously, needlessly complicated. Trailer wiring isn't rocket surgery. Its been around in various forms for close to 100 years now. I bought a Bargman inductive system which is also available under Tekonsha branding and probably others as well. Its inductive so it makes absolutely no direct contact with the car wiring. It cost me just a shade under 300 canuck bux and took maybe 3 hours to install from the time I pulled the car into the shop until I pulled it out with everything buttoned up again. The system pulls its power from the rear fuse box and senses the electrons moving inside little clip on wire channels. All you need to do is get access to each rear light assembly and run the power wire up to the fuse box.
The factory wiring system is ridiculously, needlessly complicated. Trailer wiring isn't rocket surgery. It’s been around in various forms for close to 100 years now. I bought a Bargman inductive system which is also available under Tekonsha branding and probably others as well. Inductive so it makes absolutely no direct contact with the car wiring. It cost me just a shade under 300 canuck bux and took maybe 3 hours to install from the time I pulled the car into the shop until I pulled it out with everything buttoned up again. The system pulls its power from the rear fuse box and senses the electrons moving inside little clip on wire channels. All you need to do is get access to each rear light assembly and run the power wire up to the fuse box.



My suggestion: get one made by a reputable weld shop.
The factory wiring system is ridiculously, needlessly complicated. Trailer wiring isn't rocket surgery. Its been around in various forms for close to 100 years now. I bought a Bargman inductive system which is also available under Tekonsha branding and probably others as well. Its inductive so it makes absolutely no direct contact with the car wiring. It cost me just a shade under 300 canuck bux and took maybe 3 hours to install from the time I pulled the car into the shop until I pulled it out with everything buttoned up again. The system pulls its power from the rear fuse box and senses the electrons moving inside little clip on wire channels. All you need to do is get access to each rear light assembly and run the power wire up to the fuse box.
The most important safety feature is that it activates Mercedes' trailer sway control system. It uses the front brakes independently to reduce swaying when it detects it.
Second is disabling automatic lowering at highway speeds for Airmatic cars. This is important for keeping the hitch height correct and the trailer level.
Third is an alternate mapping of shift points. The car will rev higher and shift later when towing.
Less useful but nice to have features are automatic disabling of the rear parking sensors if equipped and trailer light detection.






