Bluetec in winter
Ladies & gentlemen,
Quick question - any complications of operating your diesel in Northeastern winter? Any special operations adjustments? My MY11 lease runs out next year... still debating on petrol vs diesel. I'm from NY, by the way. Thank you |
No problems so far here in Canada. I picked up a 2013 ML350 bluetec last winter where temperatures can be anywhere from -10C to -25C (14 F to - 13F). I didn't even have to plug in the block heater.
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Originally Posted by First_Benz
(Post 5814873)
No problems so far here in Canada. I picked up a 2013 ML350 bluetec last winter where temperatures can be anywhere from -10C to -25C (14 F to - 13F). I didn't even have to plug in the block heater.
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Toronto weather is almost identical to weather in NYC, have had the 08 GL320 and now a 2013 GL350, no issues IF you warm it up before putting it in gear.
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Originally Posted by cookstar
(Post 5815075)
Toronto weather is almost identical to weather in NYC, have had the 08 GL320 and now a 2013 GL350, no issues IF you warm it up before putting it in gear.
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In fall I like to warm it up for a minute or so, in winter 2-3 minutes. Not sure what Mb recommends, I purchased the car, if your leasing than no point wasting fuel!
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There are glow plugs in all current diesel vehicles, so as long as fuel is warmed up before you start the car (those yellow circles on the dashboard), diesel operation is no different from gasoline engines.
Bluetec is related to emission component so does not make a difference on the operation of the engine from regular CDI or any other diesel (and diesels are used in pretty much any military all year round as a get in and go machinery). Hope it helps. Igor. |
Igor & Cookstar, thank you for all your help.
One last question: is the observed MPG better or worse than the EPA? I know with my petrol 2011 unit the MPG is worse than the EPA. Then again the NYC is not exactly a motorist friendly town |
I would say its below EPA.
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You should note that up here in Alaska, diesels are very popular. You just need to adapt
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Thank you all for the help. I think I'll go with diesel.
Fdjr, how do you do cold starts in that brutal Alaskan winter? |
Originally Posted by Nemchinov13
(Post 5815898)
Thank you all for the help. I think I'll go with diesel.
Fdjr, how do you do cold starts in that brutal Alaskan winter? I can remember having to sit in a 71 FJ and push the clutch in for 20 mins in -40f while the engine warmed up enough to use the tranny. Or guys heating their engines with weedburners that was my fav |
Thank you fdjr. Don't think I'll have to go through what you described. But would I have problems at around 20F (doubt it'll be colder) and without heated garage?
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nope
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Preheating and Cold Weather W-166 Diesel
In the US dealers are blocked (according to a NW dealer)from ordering an "inline" coolant heater for the ML350. You can order the unit in Canada, return to the US with the heater and have your dealer/mechanic install. I'm not sure of the wattage. I've used this type of heater in other vehicles and they work great.
Also available from (https://www.dieselproducts.com/en/en...n-heaters.aspx) are silicone pad heaters. These glue to the bottom of the oil pan with RTV compound. They're generally about 250 watts. The claims of heating times made on the website are somewhat optimistic unless your car is in an enclosed garage. I've used for years in Canada in a 10 quart engine. They work quite well, but need to be powered for a long time to heat the engine compared to the inline units. Both the above require your vehicle to be plugged in. Not such a big deal until you drive away while still plugged in. Espar hydronic heaters are excellent. Very $$$ but are independent of AC power. I am researching now, however, difficult to deal with both MBz USA and Espar Germany. Apparently the use of the Espar "may" throw codes due to different temperature readings in varous engine locations. Not sure why the inline heater made by MBz doesn't throw the same codes. Many Scandinavian countries use these types of heaters and some manufacturers have Espar as factory options. |
Shicat, thank you for this info. Hopefully, the climate won't get significantly colder than it is now.
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I'm in the Boston area & had no issues regarding starting last winter. No block heater & it was parked outside each night. My only complaint is w/ the stock Dunlop tires. They suck in the snow & freezing cold temps. My '11 Honda Accord w/ Blizzaks felt more secure than the ML. This winter the ML is getting Blizzaks as well.
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No problem here in Michigan with my Ml350 bluetec!
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Thank you guys. I think I'll be fine with diesel in nyc. And I do need diesel with all of the street driving
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Only problem in the Australin alps is when a cold blast comes in from Antartica in mid summer. At that time of year they do not sell alpine blend so I had the fuel wax. I now do my own blending so problem solved.
As far as warming the engine, I start it, fit seatbelts, check surroundings, and drive off steady. Or if it is covered in snow, I start it, get out and scrape off the snow and ice, then get back in and continue as before. Just drive steady until the heater pumps warm air. Of course, those in northern Canada or similar must give it a lot more time if not plugged in. |
Nemchinov13, if your going to be driving around NY city mostly, the diesel will give significantly better mileage than the gassers.
I must be fair and say before you pull the trigger, look around to see the availability of diesel fuel stations that are convenient to you. Saving a lot MPG's would suck if you had to go 30 miles/minutes out of your way to get quality fuel. You don't want to put bad fuel in your $60+ vehicle. Best indication of quality fuel is a station that moves a lot of it, so the fuel is always fresh. Also the ask the store clerk to show you the invoice which indicates the grade of fuel. Remember Mercedes is still stuck on the B5 only thing, while the rest of the auto and truck makers will take B20.:crazy: As for cold weather, all you need is quality fuel from an honest store that doesn't "water" down the fuel, and a store that switches to winter blend before October. Worst case scenario, add 8oz of Power Service Diesel Fuel Supplement+ with every fill up just to keep things happy. So far, 138000 miles on my 2007 ML CDI. Been as cold as -37F. Never a fuel related issue. Warms up as I drive out of my subdivision. Mine (and I hope the newer ones) has an electric heat booster, so hot air in exactly 4 minutes. Also until this year, never parked in my garage. (Race care and wife's car gets those honors.) |
Thank you, dgiturbo.
In light of new information about the auto industry's move toward B20, I wonder if the bluetec will become outdated in a few years. I plan to keep the next vehicle for 10 years |
Don't sweat the B20 thing. There was a similar thing in 2006 when ULSD was being phased in and LSD was outlawed. Horror stories about lubricity and what not. Little did we know that ULSD was already in the pumps about 3 years prior.
For the Bio mix, the IRS gives fuel stations that sell it a large if not complete discount on their fuel taxes from any diesel that is B10(11?) or higher. There is nobody out there that will leave this cash on the table and sell B5 just to keep a few MB Bluetec owners content. Many people believe they are using B5, I was one, till I went in and asked the store clerk to see the most recent invoice. It was B20. Clerk says the owner gets a tax break if they sell it, so they switched a long time ago. There is also no Federal mandate that the pump displays the Bio content. Some States have it, others don't. Bottom line, the fuel is there. Drivers just don't know they are using it. And ignorance is apparently bliss to Mercedes. One day they will change their Bio ratings, and it will be "Groundbreaking Innovation":D |
Dgiturbo, you are a treasure trove of all kinds diesel info!
Now, doesn't MB strongly recommend B5? Very strongly? |
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