Critter

Has anyone changed out the O rings on the oil cooler lines coming out of the drivers side block located just above the AC unit. The twin lines are bolted into the block and drop down from aluminum tubing to hydraulic style hose then proceed to the oil cool in front.
The location is right in the middle of "how is this removable".
Has anyone done this O ring replacement, and DIY info would be greatly appreciated.

Plutoe

To do the job correctly-----It's all available on startek.com

Critter

What is Startek.com a special headhunter clan???

Critter

No one change out the O ring seals???? At the block side wall??

EvoTechnik

Has anyone attempted to do this?

Critter

never got a reply myself, typical

EvoTechnik

Does anyone have a part number?

Yuille36

Critter

Hello my friend, yes itis in one of those places that can be repaired in short time if the engine is on a motor stand ha ha ha.
Was wondering if the ac pump can be moved forward without taking off lines with maybe the serpentine belt and pump fasteners removed.
Not much room would be required, I have a 4 post hoist the car sits on for the winter but cannot actually see the total view oil line return connections.
Thought maybe it was a valve cover gasket but still in the unsure mode ?

What do you think about the moving of the ac pump ahead a small amount to get the the possible leak area??

Thanks for the reply you gave recently I thought maybe this was a ghost site for a while

Yuille36

That is what we did, we had to remove the refrigerant first, before disconnecting the AC lines, then moving the AC compressor forward to gain some room. Also drain the radiator and expansion tank, to make more room.
These O-rings are in a difficult location, we had to loosen the mounting bracket for the oil lines running to the oil cooler. We access some things from the bottom of the car using a lift, and others from the top with the car resting on the ground.
It took about two hours total after receiving the parts from the dealership. I bought two of the last three O-rings they had. Once these O-rings were removed, they felt hard and were brittle after 11yrs.
And I'm glad that we fixed this, because I could have been on a long road trip and had this happened then, it could have been worse. But we caught it in time, with very minimal oil lose.
Plus we discovered the broken neck on the coolant expansion tank, luckily it didn't leak, but if you move it around, you could tell it was broken.

Critter

Thank you for the reply so quickly,
The AC pump is the only failure I have ever had on this car, changed it myself in the driveway 2 years ago, these fine cars have minimal room anywhere ha ha
Was thinking maybe possible to deknuckle my hands this winter as I do not like the old girl to be leaking.
Everytime the car is driven it puts a smile back on my face.
The Wavetrac LSD install by myself was for sure the best money ever spent and the response on the car was amazing and makes the car like a feral car in hot pursuit

Keep smiling and have a Merry Christmas and a safe New Year

VII

Looking to do this, did you have to disconnect compressor or just unbolt?

Yuille36

We just removed the serpentine belt and unbolted the AC compressor to gain clearance.

VII

Done, now I have clearance but the bolts seem to be partially behind the cylinder head.
Picture in a few seconds.

VII

I'm now thinking there is a bracket I need to remove?

VII

Well to answer my own question, yes that is the power steering bracket and it needs to be removed.

Quite an annoying job, on w219 also had to loosen engine mounts and lift engine to remove bolt on one of the line's bracket.

Kebowers47

Unfortunately, the modern highly efficient 'assembly assembly manufacturing lines do not incorporate 'serviceability considerations. The engine 'long block' is assembled onto the engine mount/subframe, which is assembled into the chassis from below. Thus things that are not of 'routine service' design often require significant 'dis-assembly' of the engine assembly or even un-installation of the engine assembly to replace them.

Many times some creativity and 'Yankee Engineering' can accomplish the task differently than the 'assembly line' method and Dealer procedure.
For example. my 2002 Infiniti Q45 has a complicated high pressure supply line to the power steering unit that is : steel tubing-flex hose-steel tubing-flex hose-steel tubing with crimped steel hose clamps,numerous tight formed bends in the steel tubing. It passes through the engine cradle and cannot be changed without dropping and dis-assembling the engine and engine suspension cradle. The 'hose assembly' cost nearly $400, and had to come from Korea, and labor is 14 'Book' hours to do the job. I decided to cut the steel tubing in a convenient place and snake the line assembly through the warren and replace all the rubber hose with nitril high pressure industrial hose and rejoin the steel tubing with a $12 double flare steel union. I formed circular grooves with a tubing cutter on the steel tubing ends where the hoses were removed and used high pressure 'Graylock' type hose clamps to ensure no leaks at the hose to steel connections, So for less than $75 total parts. and about 6 hours labor ( I valued at $150/hr)--including finding and purchasing all the fittings and hose- I saved over $1200 from the Dealer quote for the job.

E63007

I am right at the place where I need to be to replace those Engine Oil duel Tube Seals after removing the A/C Compressor, Coolant Tank (for better view), P/S Bracket (that otherwise would block access to the two torx bolts that hold the bracket securing the two Cooler Tubes to the Engine) the Tubes clamping bracket, each of the tubes Torx connection from the bottom of engine annoyingly close to the subframe, but now I’m hung up on figuring a way to pull those tubes out of the engine? I can reach in and grab the tube both at the top and bottom and wiggle them side to side but trying to pull even with using my thumb to push against the other tube for more leverage is a failed effort! Yuille mentions “We did it” but glosses over exactly how they are actually removed and by what method? I guess that is natural if you have other mechanics doing all the work! It seams I need a bigger lever to get each out somehow? By the lever being bent in in a V or U shape in order to loop under one of the tubes using the other as a pivot point, perhaps that will work? Now all I need is to find or make something similar???

I might add that while I had the Compressor out, I took a moment to remove the Oil Temp Sensor hidden behind there. Sure enough by carefully pinching the wire harness locking tab, I think I compromised it’s locking capability! And by using a 3/4” wrench ( yeah I know, the 19mm was slightly too big!) I was able to loosen it and eventually get it out. Initially, I tried to get a 3/4” long socket over it and the plastic fitting on it broke to due its being so brittle. Talk about hanging from a thread! I carefully threaded the new sensor by hand using the same ring gasket, as the one I had was copper and too thin! (ie-the wrong part!) Once fully hand tightened, I was able to slip the 3/4” socket over it to tighten. WIS says to tighten the sensor to 21Nm but there was no room for a Torque wrench in there, so best judgement is a requirement here! After connecting the wire harness tab I used some aluminum foil to act as an anchor and a Stay-Tie to secure it in place whereby the foil folded up just so presses down on the tab ensuring its staying secure. I’ll just have to see if it works, oh yeah, with the A/C Compressor on, there’s no way to see it!

6/16/21-Update-I just ordered the proper Oil Seals for my M156 E63, the ones as per this Thread, A 017 997 48 45, on Monday and received them today as the Oil Cooler O-Ring Seals that I ordered years ago and have been sitting on were the wrong ones (they're for the Oil Tubes connection to the rubber front hose!!) !! Much to my dismay, when I put those ones I originally had next to the ones I just pulled off the tubes, needless to say they were too small!! As for prying them out, I just used one of those nylon body panel tools to pry slightly the rear tube until I could fit a screwdriver through and over the front tube and under the rear and then pry it out gently while using another hand to gently twist back and forth the tube from its lowest point in an effort at not scratching any interior surface. Removed the O-ring with a hooked scratch awl and then applied fresh oil to the new one and installed from above with my fingers. As for the front tube, I finally figured it was better to use a short pry bar with tape on one end to protect my Shorty Header. By using the header as a part to pull against, I was able to pry out that front tube. Now I've got both in and trying to figure what torque spec those two bolts should be tightened that secure the bracket hold those tubes in place at the engine? WIS provides Zero info, only a reference to removing the tubes during its instruction of how to remove the front oil Pan!! So again, I guess using best judgement is key here as well?!?!

Yuille36

Good write up, I went thru this in 2019 with the oil cooler O-rings and oil temp sensor. We just used a small pry bar to get at it.

Rovel

I got mine fixed too. The oil ring was as dry as hard plastic when it’s supposed to be soft. My mechanic charged for 3 hours of labor. The AC had to be evacuated and recharged which makes it an annoying DIY. For anyone in the North East I recommend https://www.603benztech.com/. He is a knowledgeable MB master tech who opened his own garage.

farkis644

Does any one have the part number for the o-rings?