michel lane

Recently I serviced my car, changed the plugs, oil, filter. Now the car has developed a misfire . I have plugged a DAS system and it has given a code of 6,5 misfire , 12,10 misfire ignition module . I have recently changed the 3 map sensors on the top of the engine . I have also replaced the ignition voltage regulator , the unit sat between the 2 cylinders.

The cars runs fine , but when you start to gain boost and it around 3500rpm the engine lights come on and it starts misfiring . When I switch the car off and on again it drives fine , but the process happens when I get to around 3500 rpm.

I am uncertain it's the coil packs as its on both sides constantly on the same cylinders . Any help would be appriacted .

how are the cylinders labeled ? is it no 6 on the top left looking at the car from the bumper or bottom left . Is no 12 top right ?

PelicanParts.com

This is from personal experience, not uncommon after changing the spark plugs. Especially if it is a high mileage vehicle.

The original coil packs and transformer where IMO overly delicate.

Both coil packs and the transformer where superseded to a more robust design.

Ignition coil, right
MB# 2751500680

Voltage transformer
MB# 0001500258

Ignition coil, LEFT
MB# 2751500780

These are only an FYI.
Note: here are a few more items that where also superseded to a more robust design.

* Camshaft position sensor.
* Crankshaft position sensor.
* Change-over valve.
* Intake manifold.
* Left charged air cooler.
* Temperature sensor, charged air line.

whunter@pelicanparts.com

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greekviking

Your mechanic pulled the two coil packs and broke the circuit board inside. These are very fragile. Should have taken his time removing the coils.
Try and see if he will pay for them, otherwise your down $2200 a pair.
Sorry.

shardul

iTrader: (1)

+1

michel lane

It does not make sense, when driving below 3500rpm the car drives fine and the error code are only on 2 locations on both banks . Surely If the coil pack are bad then all the cylinders would be playing up ?. It seems that it is a over boost issue when it hits 3500rpm maybe ?. Can someone tell me where which is cylinder 1 and 12 please . I did the work myself and I was very cautious on removing the coilpacks . Followed all the instructions on the forum .

I don't believe I have done anything wrong , the car has 51k on a 2005 so these components should last longer then this ?. The two actuators that are located on each bank , I notice that one of the connectors are not connected to any hoses ? On the left bank the actuator has a cap on this but the right side it does not . Would be great if anyone can point be to a diagram where the actuators are illustrated and the pipe work shown .

greekviking

Ok. In order to remove the coil packs, you have to pry up each cylinder about 1/4" at a time starting from the front all the way down. You cannot bend the coil even a half inch or the circuits are done. It is too long to come out in a straight array. You need two hands and a lot of time prying different points along the way. Likewise when you install the coil pack, you have to go down uniformly across the entire coil pack. You will NOT hear any cracking noise as it is so subtle. I have rarely seen someone change plugs without messing up at least one coil pack. Maybe 1 in 50 jobs you end up saving them.

A hairline fracture in the circuit board will not make it go bad...it will work but up to say 3500 rpms....
You will not have full conductivity of voltage at high rpms causing the spark to blow out with more boost present.

If you're changing plugs on these motors around 50-70K miles then the coil packs are cooked anyway. They were designed to last that long without removing them. The plastics they used become very brittle and hard...the slightest movement say goodbye. People tend to sell after warranty is up because of all these issues.
This is called high maintenance. You have to pay to play.

michel lane

What a very poor design.. Thanks for everyone's input , looks like its going to cost me nearly £2500 to change these then ....bummer which I never started this all.

Welwynnick

The coil packs are a weak link, but some of this is over-stating things a bit.

I've had my coil packs in and out many times without any problems

Nick

dtohio

Spark plugs are 1-6 on the passenger side, (right), 6 is rt. rear.

biker349

does using the specific tool stop the problem from happening? i assume the dealer uses the coil pack removal tool. is this correct?

Welwynnick

I think it probaly makes things worse. You just have to be very careful.

Somebody who breaks a coil pack and then expects the customer to pay for a new one really ought to re-consider their role in life.

Nick

PelicanParts.com

Extreme caution is required, even with the MB special tool.
Last year I watched a MB dealer "Gorilla" wreck the coil packs of two cars.

Speed and violence are bad!!!

whunter@pelicanparts.com


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clrockford

I have the same issue any idea has ur problem been fixed could u tell me what it was mine missfires under load ignitiin module was checked and fine new plugs a software update only po300. And 3 codes on each bank new fuel filter the problem wasn't there until the mech put new coil packs in then is when it started it also is intermittent comes and goes any help would be great

biker349

i say ignition module. that's the symptoms i had and ignition module solved it. ignition module can have intermittent fault. how did your mechanic check the ignition module?

clrockford

It still at the shop the coils and plugs and insulators are new but the problem started after the new coil were installed I can drive it all day if I don't floor it no cel it's smooth seems perfect now when go above 4 k is when it acts odd sometime it'll run gd then others it won't throw a cel but it will feel like the turbos aren't working or kicking in another time right before I floored it it bucked and hesitated but didn't trip the light it seems intermittent cats are being checked he's goin to loosen the exhaust try it that way an update was installed ignition box between the motor was swapped out and try ed I know the coilpack are new but I think th er e bad and they have a warranty on them

DUDMD

I was about to start a new thread, but this issue is almost same on my 2004 s600
Here's what I'm experiencing.
Low boost (light throttle) that car will go all the way to redline and work just fine. Never an issue at idle or cruising. Only under heavy load at around 2.5-5k rpm, mine cuts out very aggressively. The car bucks/jumps around, fuel dumps out the exhaust. Sometimes shoots flame (no cats/mufflers) and pops very loud. Once in a while I can do several clean pulls with no issues.

Recently did the plugs. I was on original coil packs from 03.
Bought 2 new coil packs, installed both and still no change. Misfire codes from both banks come up. Tried another ignition control module box from my 04 sl600, that never had any issues and it's still the same thing, no changes.

I'm currently at new plugs, new coil packs, tested with another ICM N91. Have Star Das to help troubleshoot, but didn't get anywhere. It asked to check the voltage at the connectors of ICM and coil packs, it all checks out. The coils get 180v from ICM, and ICM gets good power on both of it's power sources.

Mods on my S600:
Custom intakes, cats deleted(one was clogged, thought it would be part of the misfire issue, it wasn't), no mufflers, no resonators. Eurocharged ECU and TCU tune.
I'll write a stock tune back on to see if misfire gets weaker. I'm thinking I may have a faulty ECU or harness connectors at the coil packs/ICM.

I'm also thinking of testing fuel pressure under high boost, and get the injectors flow tested and cleaned.

Welwynnick

Have you changed the fuel filter?

Nick

DUDMD

Today I did the following on my 04 S600.
I have an 04 sl600 that's a parts donor with only 50k miles, so I used parts from that to test.
Swapped over fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel pump module, fuel pressure sensor all over from the donor. Fuel pressure seems to still drop a little under boost.
Here's a video from before doing any fuel pump stuff, the second one is after doing all the fuel stuff. No difference, you can hear how violent the misfires are, it's almost like a ignition cut. Car shoot clouds of black smoke when misfires happen, sometimes flames.

New fuel filter arrive on Wednesday, so I'll put that in but most likely that's not the issue that I'm having.

Thinking maybe an injector that sticks open under WOT/high boost. I'm going to swap the injectors over next week, had enough fuel on me for today. Another possibility is a bad Ecu or a bad connector on ICM or ECU, placing an order on an ECU today.

Got a street legal 1/4 mile dig, 1/3 mile roll racing event I want to go to next weekend, need to get this fixed by then.

Welwynnick

How do you know the mixture is right?

Do you have all four lambda sensors?

Any warning lights on the dash?

Nick

SL65MONSTA

any update on this? I am having the exact same problems

SL65MONSTA

turned out to be right bank coil pack all replaced now