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Welwynnick Welwynnick is offline

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Showing Visitor Messages 1 to 9 of 9
  1. Batu Han
    07-07-2018 03:07 PM
    Thanks for the response Nick. I'll continue the search
  2. Welwynnick
    07-06-2018 11:11 AM
    Sorry, I wouldn't know about PAS pump conversions. I seem to have spent the last five years of my life trying to keep ABC running.

    Nick
  3. Batu Han
    07-04-2018 07:47 PM
    Hey i've been going through a ton of posts trying to find an answer to this and its a bit of a struggle. I came across a bunch of your posts and i'm hoping you might know something about my situation haha

    So apparently its a blasphemy to do so but i converted to the strutmaster coilovers when my ABC went. I have 2001 s600 5.8v12. I read on some posts that the pump from the s430/s500 without ABC is a direct fit. Do you happen to know if this is the case? I'm trying to order the right part and get this done but its been a struggle. Also some people that used the non-ABC pump were saying the pulley has 6 groves instead of the 7 that i have on mine. Any suggestions and/or directing me to the right place would be really really appreciated.
  4. wampa007
    06-23-2018 03:57 PM
    Hi Nick,
    I found your post via google search for turbo coolant seals: https://mbworld.org/forums/s55-amg-s...ml#post6103623
    As you know (since you responded in my thread), that I am already doing the driver side coil pack on S600 and I have also been told that I have a slow leak on my turbos. The Indy I went to said it appears they were coming from the bottom (I saw the green dyed coolant the person who sold me the car had in it come from the bottom), but I figure while I already have the coil packs out, I should just replace all the coolant seals on the top half as well. Seems people the done this with the engine in place. I just need the part numbers that you have in that pic you posted in the link above. If you have the part numbers for both top and bottom coolant seals that would be great. Thanks!
    -Jorge
  5. Welwynnick
    03-20-2018 06:29 PM
    Hi Anthony,
    Even the best cared-for car will be a money pit if you depend on a dealer to maintain everything. These cars are indeed difficult to maintain, but talk of $5-10k per year is exaggeration and scare-mongering IMHO. I spend about a tenth of that by doing work myself. There are lots of good methods.
    Regards, Nick
  6. Mando895
    03-19-2018 06:59 AM
    Hi Nick,
    I saw some of your posts on this forum and it seems like you know a thing or two about V12 Mercs. I am considering purchasing a 2008 CL65 AMG with 110K miles for around $26K ($30K sticker), but I am unsure if it will be a money pit. It only has one owner, seems to be in good shape (I will take it to a mechanic to see if I decide to move forward with this), and has a clean title. I don't mind working on the car here and there, but I don't have the money to drop $5-10K+ a year fixing the car. I am also considering a 2016-2018 Chevy Camaro SS which costs a little more (I know they are fairly different vehicles, but I'm a fan of both :P), but I'm not sure if it is worth getting the CL over it. Any advice would be much appreciated!

    Thanks,
    Anthony
  7. Welwynnick
    01-09-2018 08:03 AM
    Hi Rob,
    I've never taken my engine out, I've always avoided doing that. The oil feed and return flange gaskets are easy, and never need replacing anyway.
    It's usually the water return (top) connection that leaks, and it's a pig. Yes, you need to remove the coil pack, though I removed the exhaust heat shields as well, and they're tricky to get back in.
    I found the coolant pipe was seized in place and very difficult to remove, lots of cunning and lots of force. I made special tools by cutting existing tools down to a size that fits the space available.
    Your car may be easier than mine (163 k miles). I also found there was corrosion around the 0-ring on the inside of the turbo housing, which complicated things.
    I guess condensation accumulates in the cavity and corrodes the turbo. I think that's why the top connector usually fails.
    You can do it as a DIY job, but you'll be cursing it. I bought these ones from the dealer.
    Regards, Nick
  8. robmcnaught
    01-08-2018 07:55 AM
    Hi Nick,
    Just came across your post on replacing the turbocharger coolant feed and return o-rings. Very helpful to know that a leaking o-ring is probably the cause of the slight dribble I saw when doing an oil change over the weekend - took the lower back plastic panel off to trace the leak and saw a dribble on one of the lower turbocharger fixing bolts.
    Did you buy replacement o-rings through your dealer or did you go after market?
    Also it seems that I will need to take off the coil pack to gain enough access to replace the o-ring (I've done this before when changing spark plugs). Did you when you changed these, or did you do this preemptively when the engine was out? Seems like someone in the states changed them in situ which is promising as I don't fancy dropping the engine for this. https://mbworld.org/forums/s-class-w...ck-engine.html

    Many thanks in advance for any advice, Rob
    [email protected]
    W221 S600 '06
  9. 90sMercs
    04-24-2016 03:03 PM
    Dear Nick, Thank you for your fantastic ABC thread which I have read in detail but I am still a bit unsure which pipe has blown and so is the MB dealer! They said the car is "old and rare" which means they can't identify the exact part. They did a video and it runs down from the UK passenger side pump to a joint with a pipe that runs up over the gearbox to an accumulator on the drivers side. They want 1800 to remove the engine. Your post seems to imply it can be done without doing this? The car has only 87K miles but I want to try and avoid scrapping it as its only worth 3K. I would appreciate any help you have as I am a bit new to all this and really wanted to believe in ABC. Regards Ian

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