raycanales

I get in my 2003 CL55 and the A/C is not blowing Cold I notice the A/C switch has the red light on , and I cant turn it off , any help on this would be greatly appreciated .. car is out of warranty

RichardM98

How to run built-in Climate Control Diagnostics.

1 - Start engine
2 - Turn on Climate Control and adjust to 72F (22C) on both sides. This is done easily by holding UP and DOWN arrows simultaneously.
3 - Wait 3 - 5 min unless engine is already up to temp.
4 - Press and hold the REST button for at least 5 seconds and release when the left side of the display shows an '01'
5 - Record the left and right values on a piece of paper.
6 - Press the 'AUTO' button. The value '02' should appear on the left.
7 - Repeat while recording the value on the left and on the right.
8 - Some values on left will not be consecutive. Some will be missing. Just write down the ones you get.
9 - When you get to '24' press REST to exit.

Here is what the values mean.

01 Inside (cabin) temp
02 Outside temp
03 Left heater core temp
04 Right heater core temp
05 Evaporator temp
06 Engine coolant temp
07 A/C Compressor pressure (bar)
08 Refrigerant temp


21 Engine rpm (x100)
22 Vehicle speed (mph)
24 Battery voltage

Most common problem with EC light staying on is low refrigerant. Low refrigerant will result in compressor not starting and compressor pressure (07) will be zero. At one time an older style Refrigerant Temperature Sensor was subject to moisture build up and that would cause the EC light to stay on. All newer models have an improved RTC design.

Good luck.

raycanales

ok How To Decipher The Values?

01 +28.5C
02 +61C
03 +28.4C
04 +28.3C
05 +28.6C
06 +90C
07 12.7Bar - 12.3Bar
08 +55.5C
09 -5.7K
10 4.6Volts
11 0
12 0
13 0
14 0
15 0
16 710
17 335
18 +29.5C
19 -6.4K
20 34%
21 650
22 0KmH
23 99%
24 13.8V

Racin_fool

usually when the EC light is stuck on and will not turn off when depressed, the car is low on refrigerant. Basically it means you either have a leak in your a/c system or the car has lasted long enough for enough refrigerant to leak out of the system and the control unit thinks the system is empty. If you know what the A/c lines look like, you can pop the hood and trace the lines around until you find a damp connection. You can also take it to a local independent shop and have them recharge the a/c system and also put dye in the system so it's easier to find the leak at a later time when (or if) it fails again.

RichardM98

The values you posted seem normal to me. Unless someone else has an idea I'd have a A/C tech have a look.

Also, do you have good air flow? If it's weak, check the cabin filter for blockage.

raycanales

I have great Air Flow blowers are blowing like a hurricane, Im going to try the refrigerant route.
unless anyone else has any ideas

raycanales

I had my A/C Tech Check it today and the high side is 120 and low side is at 100 but the compressor is running and the clutch is engaged , any ideas ?
he says the compressor is shut is this accurate ?

RichardM98

Sorry I'm not A/C Tech but if you trust him then he's probably right. If in doubt have someone else check it (dealer?) and see if they agree. I know some people are afraid of the dealer but if you take in your car complaining of no A/C they will test it and tell you what's needed. At that point you are free to decline having it repaired. No problem since it's drivable.

Good luck.

vettdvr

Stuck open expansion valve? or failed compressor

gblhack

My climate control is either hot or cold. I recorder my values for my system. Please Help.

00 34.7
01 0
02 62
03 39.9
04 40.0
05 7.2
06 89
07 16bar
08 56.5
09 3.9k
10 2.2
16 125
17 898
18 16
19 4.4k
20 69%
21 650
22 0
23 0
24 14v

RichardM98

Try this site. It was down this spring but is back up. Just follow the steps and submit your results. He promises to interpret for you.

http://www.eclassbenz.com/2010/02/ho...-malfunctions/