C320 CDi Electrical gremlins
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W204 C320 CDi
C320 CDi Electrical gremlins
Hi,
Apologies for the slightly long post in advance. I have a strange issue on my W204 C320 Cdi (2008) that I am hoping someone with more knowledge than me can shed some light on!
Basically during my travels today, I got into my car and drove down to the shops. I noticed when I got out that it took a few presses of the key fob to lock the car which I initially didn't think anything of and put it down to a battery on its way out. When I got back to the car, it was the same story to open it. Needed a few extra pushes on the button. Again I put this down the the fob.
Anyway I start the car and oddly, the fuel gauge didn't register any fuel. It was stuck on 0. I decided to get it home and investigate further. On my way home, i went to indicate and i got a warning flash up on the dash that both my rear indicator bulbs were out (2 separate warnings - 1 for each side). I got home and realised my rear de-mister wasn't working either. There was also no readout for my mileage range. Also not working is the seatbelt warning light.
I did some investigating online and a few things pointed to this being a fault with the rear SAM. Now I don't know if this any coincidence but I did have something rather heavy rattling around in the boot for the last day (4 suspension struts) and I am wondering if these might have caused an issue? I could definitely hearing them thumping around in the boot as they were rolling.
Does anyone know where I should look and also where the SAM is located? Does anyone have any better ideas at this stage? For what its worth, the radio works as do the wipers. The interior fan/ac blower seems to be fine although sometimes i think the fan speed increases or decreases of its own accord. The central locking is intermittent. It largely doesn't work but then if you keep pressing it, it does eventually lock and unlock the car but you need to press it a fair few times to make it do this.
Finally, if it does turn out to be the SAM, can I replace this myself and does it require any special diagnostic equipment to program specifically to my car?
Any help would be much appreciated.
Apologies for the slightly long post in advance. I have a strange issue on my W204 C320 Cdi (2008) that I am hoping someone with more knowledge than me can shed some light on!
Basically during my travels today, I got into my car and drove down to the shops. I noticed when I got out that it took a few presses of the key fob to lock the car which I initially didn't think anything of and put it down to a battery on its way out. When I got back to the car, it was the same story to open it. Needed a few extra pushes on the button. Again I put this down the the fob.
Anyway I start the car and oddly, the fuel gauge didn't register any fuel. It was stuck on 0. I decided to get it home and investigate further. On my way home, i went to indicate and i got a warning flash up on the dash that both my rear indicator bulbs were out (2 separate warnings - 1 for each side). I got home and realised my rear de-mister wasn't working either. There was also no readout for my mileage range. Also not working is the seatbelt warning light.
I did some investigating online and a few things pointed to this being a fault with the rear SAM. Now I don't know if this any coincidence but I did have something rather heavy rattling around in the boot for the last day (4 suspension struts) and I am wondering if these might have caused an issue? I could definitely hearing them thumping around in the boot as they were rolling.
Does anyone know where I should look and also where the SAM is located? Does anyone have any better ideas at this stage? For what its worth, the radio works as do the wipers. The interior fan/ac blower seems to be fine although sometimes i think the fan speed increases or decreases of its own accord. The central locking is intermittent. It largely doesn't work but then if you keep pressing it, it does eventually lock and unlock the car but you need to press it a fair few times to make it do this.
Finally, if it does turn out to be the SAM, can I replace this myself and does it require any special diagnostic equipment to program specifically to my car?
Any help would be much appreciated.
