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(thread is also posted on X166 GL and GLS subforums. I really need help)
I have a 2014 GL450. M278 4.7 V8. Has methanol injection, colder plugs, 40psi boost pressure. Makes more power than 550s and maybe even 63 AMGs. I love this car and have too much time and money invested into it. Can't get rid of it. Distronic Plus and pre-safe brake failed, had the car on cruise control. Hit the car in front of me. Car didn't brake. Hood, bumper, passenger side fender, lower bumper support, main bumper reinforcement, radiator support, upper bracket, all destroyed. Frame is straight. Bought a salvage side impact 2018 GLS550 as a parts car this morning. Will swap over the entire front end, rear bumper and taillights, fender flares. I need help. How do I make the headlights work? I know I need to rewire the connectors, maybe even mess with one of the SAM units and have to get some programming done. I can do anything and everything mechanical, but electronics and programming are not my strongsuit (the opposite of most 19 year olds). Please help me out if you can in regards to the headlights. My headlights are the base halogen lights btw. I will include pictures of my car and the donor car. Any and all help will be much appreciated.
IMHO, this resurrection of your GL would be a monumental challenge even if your donor vehicle was an identical 2014 built on the same day. You could spend months changing out all the mechanical parts only to find the electronics and software are entirely different, and then have only an inoperable franken-mobile parked in your garage.
Just curious - didn't your GL produce any warnings that your cruise and braking systems were faulty?
IMHO, this resurrection of your GL would be a monumental challenge even if your donor vehicle was an identical 2014 built on the same day. You could spend months changing out all the mechanical parts only to find the electronics and software are entirely different, and then have only an inoperable franken-mobile parked in your garage.
Just curious - didn't your GL produce any warnings that your cruise and braking systems were faulty?
I have swapped front ends before. No problem for me. Will be done within 1 to 2 days. Need someone to help me with the SAM unit and programming. If I cant make the headlights work I'll have to strip both cars and literally swap EVERYTHING over to my car from the donor. Don't wanna do that. Will take me weeks. I will make it work, just looking to see if someone can help me do it the easy way.
Edit: I'm still daily driving my car lol. I'll include a picture of the damage. Not bad at all in my opinion. Also, the warnings came on after my car hit the car in front of me. So wasn't exactly helpful.
Last edited by Bobby556; May 10, 2022 at 08:31 PM.
You didn't say how fast you were going at impact, and if the cruise was still engaged, I thought faster with greater damage. Are you sure the headlamps are the only difference? I thought the front end is loaded up with airbag sensors, radar and collision sensors, and endless other stuff. Do you have access to wiring diagrams for both vehicles?
You didn't say how fast you were going at impact, and if the cruise was still engaged, I thought faster with greater damage. Are you sure the headlamps are the only difference? I thought the front end is loaded up with airbag sensors, radar and collision sensors, and endless other stuff. Do you have access to wiring diagrams for both vehicles?
I have felony speeding charges. I use distronic in the city or I end up going 100+ in 35 zones. Don't need any more tickets. cruise was engaged at 35. Hit the car in front of me at 35. She wasn't stationary, or it would have been worse. I will be using all my stock sensors. Will keep my stock wiring. Only thing electronically different will be the headlights. The sensors will mount onto the new bumper no problem. The headlights are literally all I need help with.
Last edited by Bobby556; May 10, 2022 at 08:53 PM.
I assume 40psia of boost, not 40 psig. To what RPM can you hold that? I've spiked to about 38psia before but not intentionally. I heard our intakes and intercoolers can't take a lot of pressure so I worry about spikes like that. Maybe you know about it than I do, if so maybe you could you share? I'm shooting for 34psia but can only carry that to 4k. By the time I hit 5k it's down to 29psia, then 6k it's 26 Car is all stock except for K&N
As for the programming, I suppose I'd contact the BenzNinja. Remote programming is his thing. He's very nice to talk to and I'm sure he'll know if it's doable. Yes you have to buy the hardware to program it, which I think is ~$4-500. Xentry and other programs are cheap, like $50 for the lot of them. Worth it and kinda surprised you haven't needed it already, but you will now. Taking all the crap outta the one car to avoid that seems overkill to me, plus I'd imagine you'll need the programming hardware sooner or later so I'd just buy it.
I assume 40psia of boost, not 40 psig. To what RPM can you hold that? I've spiked to about 38psia before but not intentionally. I heard our intakes and intercoolers can't take a lot of pressure so I worry about spikes like that. Maybe you know about it than I do, if so maybe you could you share? I'm shooting for 34psia but can only carry that to 4k. By the time I hit 5k it's down to 29psia, then 6k it's 26 Car is all stock except for K&N
As for the programming, I suppose I'd contact the BenzNinja. Remote programming is his thing. He's very nice to talk to and I'm sure he'll know if it's doable. Yes you have to buy the hardware to program it, which I think is ~$4-500. Xentry and other programs are cheap, like $50 for the lot of them. Worth it and kinda surprised you haven't needed it already, but you will now. Taking all the crap outta the one car to avoid that seems overkill to me, plus I'd imagine you'll need the programming hardware sooner or later so I'd just buy it.
40 psia. with 93 back home in Georgia I used to run 44. Arizona has 91. The stock turbos are small so I get around 34 psia at redline. My methanol injection kit from VRP came with a BOV (extra cost option), so it gives me some peace of mind. As for what you have heard, I have ran this setup for 30k miles. Car has 56k now. 0 Issues. Compression tested the engine when I changed the plugs last month at 55k. Engine is pretty much brand new minus the timing cover gasket and and both valve cover gaskets leaking. I also use liquimoly leichtlauf 5w40 with the liquimoly friction modifier and oem oil filter. change the oil every 5-6k miles. I always start it up and let it sit for 5 mins in the morning when cold. maintenance goes a long way. Car gets driven HARD. intercooler and intake are not a problem. My intake and IC are stock. So is exhaust. I have pictures and videos of me doing 160+ with it lol. Stock GLs wont do over 134. The speedometer (digital and analogue) won't read over 160 so idk what my actual speed was. I'll attach a picture. It wasn't on a dyno. the 2nd pic is blurry but proves its on the street lol.
I am seriously considering swapping everything over from the donor since that car is literally fully loaded. I want all those options lol. I dont know for sure. Im on vacation and will decide when i get back.
I finished the swap in a month. Swapped everything over. my 2014 GL450 is literally a 2017 GLS550 now. I finished it in august and put 7k miles on it. everything works perfectly minus the airbag lights. If anyone is as dumb as me and wants to do this, its possible and actually relatively easy. if you need help, send me a PM. also, engine and trans is for sale. Like new, 51k mile M278 and 7g-tronic.
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Car is all stock except for K&N
