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I have a 2013 ML350 Bluetec with 35,000 miles on it. I had the check engine light come on and plugged in a OBDII sensor and it shows the following codes P010A, P010C, P010D, P00AB and they point to the mass air flow sensor. The car has no symptoms of stalling etc and has never given better mileage. Do you think cleaning it will help or is there a source to buy one outside of the dealer network. They want $800 for the sensor. On a really cool morning the light turned off and them came back on when the day warmed up. Any help is appreciated
Ok I hope this helps other users. I cleaned the two Mass air sensors with CPC cleaner, the check engine light did NOT go off. Then there was this new hissing noise from the right side of the engine compartment that had me thinking there was also a new Turbo seal or EGR valve issue. Took it in, turns out that the boost hose had a split that was both causing the check engine light to come on as well as the loud hissing noise. $500 later all fixed which is always a good day in the MB world when you get things fixed that are brokem. Car was a month out of warranty with 37,000 miles and babied for 4 years which is frustrating.
Ok I hope this helps other users. I cleaned the two Mass air sensors with CPC cleaner, the check engine light did NOT go off. Then there was this new hissing noise from the right side of the engine compartment that had me thinking there was also a new Turbo seal or EGR valve issue. Took it in, turns out that the boost hose had a split that was both causing the check engine light to come on as well as the loud hissing noise. $500 later all fixed which is always a good day in the MB world when you get things fixed that are brokem. Car was a month out of warranty with 37,000 miles and babied for 4 years which is frustrating.
Where were these sensors?? Are you sure that there are two that's very weird. If you search what the MAF part looks like for the ML its round so i think you cleaned the Air Mass Sensor instead of the Mass Air Flow Sensor.
I have the exact same issue, same codes and kind of hear a hissing sound as well. Could you tell me which is the boost hose so that I can inspect it? Thank you in advance for your time.
OK, in my case it ended up being the MAF Sensor Circuit B which is located on the drivers side. Since sensor A and B are identical I was able to swap the two using a heat gun to soften hard plastic right that holds the sensor housing to the rubber booth on the air intake, not very difficult to do. After doing this the error followed the sensor and I was then getting the fault on circuit A. The codes that I was getting were as follows:
P010D
P010A
P010C
P00AA
P00AD
Mercedes only sells the complete two sensor assembly for around $800 PN A6420901642. Also, I could not find a used on in the US but was able to find a used one on ebay Germany for $250 including shipping. Since the unit has two sensors I will end up with a spare one just in case I have another one fail. Hope this helps someone.
Thanks chavezluc! That's great advice although I'm having a heck of a time trying to figure out where to separate the assembly. I'll keep at it. Is it glued and the glue needs softening or is it just a tight fit? Any advice on technique?
Did you separate on the sensor side of the rubber boot (A in the photo below) or the other side (B), toward the center?
Looks like you had codes for both temp sensor and MAF (and yes I know they are the same assembly) as I have. I am kind of surprised that one part of the component doesn't fail first while the other keeps working.
Here are the codes I am getting - this is on my GL350 bluetec 2013
p0110 IAT
p0113 IAT high
161700 The signal of component 'B2/7b1 (Right intake air temperature sensor)' is implausible.
161800 The signal of component 'B2/7b1 (Right intake air temperature sensor)' is implausible.
168D00 This function is not yet supported by the control unit.
p0102 101500 The lower limit value of component 'B2/7 (Right hot film mass air flow sensor)' has been reached. [or EGR cooler switchover valve overtemp]
p0100 100D00 The lower limit value of component 'B2/7 (Right hot film mass air flow sensor)' has been reached.
Just a quick follow up to anyone who is trying to take apart this assembly down the road -- the place you take it apart is at the A label in the photo I posted. This is where the rubber boot meets the more rigid plastic of the sensor section. The connection is actually held together with a ring holding the flange of the sensor section to the flange of the rubber section. BE CAREFUL because I don't think you can buy the rings separately -- and make sure to get the rings with any used part if you can. My "used part" already was disassembled down to just the sensor units from each end but fortunately the rings were still attached so I had spares.
If you are unsure on how this unit is put together, as I was, try pulling the rubber section out of the ring first. Once that is out it should be more clear. It is very easy to break the ring so take your time.
Sir I am experiencing same issue but what is Boost Hose? I could not find any video or information on internet. Please help.
The MAF sensor is not available separately anymore, at least it was not last year. Price is over $1000 for entire assembly on the internet, $1400 at the local dealer. I did ALOT of research trying to buy the left or right side individually for much cheaper but Mercedes stopped selling it like this. I would be surprised if you could find one. My step kids made this video that i sent directly to Mercedes benz USA. Also you have to learn the new sensor to the car so you will need MB STAR. Maybe you could get away without learning it but the factory procedure is to relearn the upper and lower limits. I purchased the MB Star/toughbook from Aliexpress for ~$9. So about $2000 for the repair that cost about ~$120 on a BMW or any other car out there. Also, check your air filters. At 35k miles mine were completely clogged and i believe this was causing oil residue to get pulled back into the MAF tube from the turbo, causing the hot film sensor to fail prematurely.
trying to clean up oil gunk from an old turbo oil leak in this tube/section.
tried tugging at those rubber boots to see if something was coming apart where section A and B meet, but nothing (was gentle to avoid breaking anything).
Any more tips/tricks for separating A from B? was a heat gun required to soften things up? use of a hook/pick set maybe to get under the shiny hard plastic ring (is that the ring holding the flange that you are speaking about above to not break?)
also how to remove those sensors? just heat with a heat gun and pull? if heated to pull out, how did they stay in after trying to put them back, any glue required?
i did my best to clean the area with CRC MAF sensor kleen, and plenty of black crud poured out, but i can see that it is still pretty dirty in there and i would really like to take it apart and clean it nicely.
any videos online/youtube showing how to take it all apart?
See my last post for detailed photos. One unit has the ring attached and the other does not. NOTE: you mention removing the sensor and that makes me think you want to pull out just the electronic part and I think that is glued in. I wouldn't try taking it apart any further than is shown. And I *would not* risk breaking the ring if to just do preventative cleaning if your unit is functioning. If you break the ring, you are SCREWED unless you have another.
When I ordered a used unit from LKQ Potomac German parts they came like you see there except they both had the rings. MAKE SURE TO ASK FOR THE WHOLE UNIT OR AT LEAST MAKE SURE THEY INCUDE THE RINGS.
From what I recall, you should be able to pull the rubber boot out from the ring. Just kind of pinch it and try to pull it inwards and then out. Try to get one little section out and then the rest will follow. Again DON'T DO IT if your unit is functioning. Treat this thing with kid gloves because it is expensive to replace if you screw some little part up. I over-torqued the hose clamp on the turbo and snapped it, then cracked the plastic and broke off an alignment pin when tying to get a standard hose clamp from the auto parts store to work (standard hose clamps are too wide to use here).... if it had broke much more I would have ended up having to source another unit!
Another previous post was talking about needing to reprogram/relearn after swapping one of these. My issues were solved without doing that but I don't know if perhaps it wasn't as efficient or something. I eventually asked an indy mechanic to do the reset/relearn procedure. My *guess* is that the car will adapt itself over time and the reset just gets it back to factory setting and maybe it relearns over time from there. Or maybe it kicks in a faster learning procedure for some period of time. That is all complete wild guessing. In any case, don't spend thousands of dollars on equipment just go to an independent mechanic and offer to pay them to reset it. I waited until I took my car in for something else and asked if they would just do that as well and I did offer to pay but they didn't charge me since I was doing other work.
Hi there:
Could you pls elaborate a little more on the MB star from Alibaba for $9?. What's exactly that?
Thanks
Originally Posted by turbosl2
The MAF sensor is not available separately anymore, at least it was not last year. Price is over $1000 for entire assembly on the internet, $1400 at the local dealer. I did ALOT of research trying to buy the left or right side individually for much cheaper but Mercedes stopped selling it like this. I would be surprised if you could find one. My step kids made this video that i sent directly to Mercedes benz USA. Also you have to learn the new sensor to the car so you will need MB STAR. Maybe you could get away without learning it but the factory procedure is to relearn the upper and lower limits. I purchased the MB Star/toughbook from Aliexpress for ~$9. So about $2000 for the repair that cost about ~$120 on a BMW or any other car out there. Also, check your air filters. At 35k miles mine were completely clogged and i believe this was causing oil residue to get pulled back into the MAF tube from the turbo, causing the hot film sensor to fail prematurely.
Hope this helps
Hi there could you elaborate a little on the MB star from Alibaba for $9... What it is exactly that? Thanks so much for your help
people are asking for the 5th time... what boost hose are you talking about that you heard the hissing sound and where is that located???? For this same question you answered it twice with how you fixed the sensor and how much you purchased it but still didn’t answer where that BOOST HOSE is that you mentioned it in the first place and now have people wondering and pulling on hoses trying to find that hissing sound!!!
See my last post for detailed photos. One unit has the ring attached and the other does not. NOTE: you mention removing the sensor and that makes me think you want to pull out just the electronic part and I think that is glued in. I wouldn't try taking it apart any further than is shown. And I *would not* risk breaking the ring if to just do preventative cleaning if your unit is functioning. If you break the ring, you are SCREWED unless you have another.
When I ordered a used unit from LKQ Potomac German parts they came like you see there except they both had the rings. MAKE SURE TO ASK FOR THE WHOLE UNIT OR AT LEAST MAKE SURE THEY INCUDE THE RINGS.
From what I recall, you should be able to pull the rubber boot out from the ring. Just kind of pinch it and try to pull it inwards and then out. Try to get one little section out and then the rest will follow. Again DON'T DO IT if your unit is functioning. Treat this thing with kid gloves because it is expensive to replace if you screw some little part up. I over-torqued the hose clamp on the turbo and snapped it, then cracked the plastic and broke off an alignment pin when tying to get a standard hose clamp from the auto parts store to work (standard hose clamps are too wide to use here).... if it had broke much more I would have ended up having to source another unit!
Another previous post was talking about needing to reprogram/relearn after swapping one of these. My issues were solved without doing that but I don't know if perhaps it wasn't as efficient or something. I eventually asked an indy mechanic to do the reset/relearn procedure. My *guess* is that the car will adapt itself over time and the reset just gets it back to factory setting and maybe it relearns over time from there. Or maybe it kicks in a faster learning procedure for some period of time. That is all complete wild guessing. In any case, don't spend thousands of dollars on equipment just go to an independent mechanic and offer to pay them to reset it. I waited until I took my car in for something else and asked if they would just do that as well and I did offer to pay but they didn't charge me since I was doing other work.
How did you remove the ring and how did you reattach the rubber part for the MAF back on?
Where were these sensors?? Are you sure that there are two that's very weird. If you search what the MAF part looks like for the ML its round so i think you cleaned the Air Mass Sensor instead of the Mass Air Flow Sensor.
Did it look like this?
Hello mike my ml 350 blueteck is the same as this can you give me a cote
2013 ML 350
people are asking for the 5th time... what boost hose are you talking about that you heard the hissing sound and where is that located???? For this same question you answered it twice with how you fixed the sensor and how much you purchased it but still didn’t answer where that BOOST HOSE is that you mentioned it in the first place and now have people wondering and pulling on hoses trying to find that hissing sound!!!
I an guessing the Boost hose he mean is the hose after the front intercooler to the engine air inlet. This one quite often fail. When it fail, the engine loose power quite badly. Just open the engine and move your hand around the area near the alternator. If the hose leak, you can feel the air blow out. Lot of good duct tape can fix it temporarily until you have the new part. Replace the hose is quite easy don’t even need tool.
I have a 2013 ML350 Bluetec with 35,000 miles on it. I had the check engine light come on and plugged in a OBDII sensor and it shows the following codes P010A, P010C, P010D, P00AB and they point to the mass air flow sensor. The car has no symptoms of stalling etc and has never given better mileage. Do you think cleaning it will help or is there a source to buy one outside of the dealer network. They want $800 for the sensor. On a really cool morning the light turned off and them came back on when the day warmed up. Any help is appreciated
2015 ML 350BT same issue. You can buy a reman from most Merchants dealers is the US for around $450. I took mine off and sprayed it twice with MAF cleaner. Cleaned all contacts but no luck. Engine light still on
2015 ML 350BT same issue. You can buy a reman from most Merchants dealers is the US for around $450. I took mine off and sprayed it twice with MAF cleaner. Cleaned all contacts but no luck. Engine light still on
didnt work for me either. Hot film sensor went bad. I have a used sensor from when mine went bad I would sell. I would have to see if it’s the left or right side. Also need the scan tool I believe to relearn the sensor.
I am going to be selling my cloned MBstar/Xentry setup with a tough book. Cost me $900. Not sure what I will ask but I sold the car so I have a lot of stuff.
2015 ML 350BT same issue. You can buy a reman from most Merchants dealers is the US for around $450. I took mine off and sprayed it twice with MAF cleaner. Cleaned all contacts but no luck. Engine light still on
Made this as a joke to MB yrs ago. Wasn’t happy with their products so I never bought another MB. Don’t like how the parts are all larger assemblies. Went back to my BMWs. Will never look back
03-29-2017, 07:40 PM
