Mobkob03

My drivers door started the lock "bounce". Twice in the past I locked it with remote. Later forgetting I pulled the drivers door handle opening the car and setting off the alarm. Both times I sat in and closed the door and started the car.

This week the same situation but I sat in the car, and to not be rude I left the door open while talking to co worker. When I turned the key the engine spins well on it's new battery but doesn't start. I've tried all combinations of locking and closing the door to disconnecting the battery. Nothing works.

Today, with great embarrassment, I had the car flat bedded home. The driver knew the car and said something is wrong in the communication and the car thinks its being stolen. He said I needed to first fix the drivers door actuator.

I've taken the door panel off down to the inner metal panel, removed its screws and can't remove it. Question: what do I need to do to remove it and get to the actuator?

Also, are there any relay bypasses or ideas to get the car running? I love the car and the only issue is the non operating roof. My wife is at the end of her rope and is eyeing a new Honda....yikes! Any help on these two issues is greatly appreciated. Thank you, Kevin

Mobkob03

UPDATE 17 June: Door panel resolved thanks to a youtube video on the ML350. Once done is easy. Problem still cranks wont start. Replaced crank sensor, has spark when cranking, found no fuel pressure at schrader valve on injector rail. Removed rear seats and carpet, no power at plug to fuel pump. No power at fuse #57 and relay. Relay check with power and ohms, is good.

Any thoughts would be helpful and appreciated. Problem started with alarm and I feel its in there some where but don't know what to look for. Not ready to bring to the "Stealer" since I only hear bad things about their service and attitude to used broken Mercedes. Is there a SAM I should be looking at somewhere that works with the alarm system. The car recognizes the key and all functions work, just isn't providing fuel to the operating spark plugs. Thank you

Mobkob03

UPDATE 30 June 17: After over thinking the problem and receiving zero responses I found the fuel pump receives power at the plug only when the key was in the full start position. I then ordered and installed a pump for $179.00 off Ebay and it was a perfect item. After installing hold down ring I decided to test the temp and the car started right up.

The car ran perfect for 30 seconds then started a stumble followed by the engine light!!! I turned it off, drank a beer then restarted it. Same stumble as if missing on one cylinder.
I rev'd it up to 2K, no problem but still stumble. Did it again and bang and white smoke out the tail pipe. Yep, blew the engine I guess. I'm very proud now to be a member of the club. Engine still turned again but not well. I have read all the horror stories about this car, but still went forward. This has been the worst car experience ever with a company that has been ripping people off for years. It makes me miss my early days of British cars with Lucas electric and leaking oil.

I put the interior back together and can even get 1K for it with all the new parts. I've read the only option is to install a 2010 motor due to the "gear" issue was resolved by late 2009. Am able to swap motor myself but believe the rest of the car will fall apart. Sad part is it has put me back into my 2004 Buick full time which has never failed. Another beautiful R350 going to the junkyard......wife says we don't need the lawn ornament.