R-Class (W251) Produced 2006-2013: R320CDI, R350, R420CDI, R500

Towing with a 2010 r350 4matic

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Old 04-26-2019, 09:58 AM
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2010 R350
Towing with a 2010 r350 4matic

We purchased our 2010 r350 a few months ago, it currently has 95k miles and is an absolute perfect vehicle for our family of 5. We would like to get a pop up camper, well below the 3500 lb towing limit (looking at models in the 1000-2900 lb range), and I was wondering if anyone has used their r350 to tow and how that went for you. I don't want to damage our family vehicle but also would love to upgrade from tent camping.
Old 04-26-2019, 01:27 PM
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2011 R350 BT
I have a 2011 with the Bluetec engine and it is a fantastic tow vehicle. Even with the class 2 hitch and tow rating of only 3500 lbs - it feels like it could tow more. I tow a boat - which I estimate is about 3000 lbs max with trailer and full gear/tank (probably 2700 lbs on average) and even though that's near the upper limit it is pretty effortless. I even get decent fuel mileage on the highway.
Old 04-26-2019, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by CedarMtn
I have a 2011 with the Bluetec engine and it is a fantastic tow vehicle. Even with the class 2 hitch and tow rating of only 3500 lbs - it feels like it could tow more. I tow a boat - which I estimate is about 3000 lbs max with trailer and full gear/tank (probably 2700 lbs on average) and even though that's near the upper limit it is pretty effortless. I even get decent fuel mileage on the highway.
Thank you for your reply! This is my favorite car I've owned and I've never towed so starting with this vehicle makes me want to do all the research possible. I don't have bluetec but hopefully that doesn't change things too much. Appreciate the feedback!!
Old 04-30-2019, 02:27 AM
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The R-class is on the same platform as the ML and GL class, both of which are rated for towing over 7k lbs. I'm pretty sure the only reason the R class is limited to 3500 lbs is because Mercedes only released a Class II hitch for it rather than Class III/IV. Class II hitches have a 1 1/4" opening rather than 2", and comes with a weight limit of 3500 lbs. Theoretically, with the same drivetrain and chassis base as the ML and GL, the R class would be better for towing due to its lower center of gravity and longer wheelbase.

I had a local welding shop cut off the original 1 1/4" receiver and weld on a 2" receiver, cost me about $200. The OEM hitch has frame inserts that are significantly stronger than the aftermarket hitch. They aren't built quite as beefy as the ML and GL hitches, but they are still very strong. The R class does have a shorter rear overhang than the ML and GL, so it probably doesn't need it to be quite as sturdy. I'm also sure you can reinforce it by adding a support bar like what the aftermarket hitches use, and wouldn't be hard or expensive for a fabrication shop to do. The trick is finding an OEM hitch.

In any case, 2900 lbs is significantly less than what the R class is capable of handling. Ours had no problems pulling a 3500 lbs boat plus 1200 lbs trailer up a steep launch ramp.
Old 04-30-2019, 06:59 PM
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U-Haul "should" be able to mount a Curt Class III hitch reasonably... frack the Class II
Old 04-30-2019, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by fabbrisd1
U-Haul "should" be able to mount a Curt Class III hitch reasonably... frack the Class II
The problem with the Curt Class III is that it literally hangs from the bumper. The OEM hitch has inserts that go into the frame for additional support. The Curt also hangs much lower, so tail strikes are a concern.
Old 05-01-2019, 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by fabbrisd1
U-Haul "should" be able to mount a Curt Class III hitch reasonably... frack the Class II
Originally Posted by Tsumi
The problem with the Curt Class III is that it literally hangs from the bumper. The OEM hitch has inserts that go into the frame for additional support. The Curt also hangs much lower, so tail strikes are a concern.

The OEM hitch doesn't hang down like some of the aftermarket hitches. So you don't have to worry about overhang. The rear bumper cover has an area that you can cut out for the factory hitch. Getting a class III receiver welded onto the OEM hitch is a good idea. Here's a link to an older thread where I posted some pics of the OEM hitch - so you can kind of see how it fits through the cutout. Mine was installed by a dealer as a part of the deal when I bought the car. Another member posted some pics of installing an OEM hitch.

https://mbworld.org/forums/r-class-w...ch-2011-a.html

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