wallyp

I am a little confused - is your problem soft-close or locking?

The soft-close actuator is visible at the bottom of the door latch assembly.

The lock/unlock actuator is thoroughly buried in the assembly, and is almost impossible to see.

ibeforreal

Wallyp it is quite interesting. The soft close works on all the doors except the driver's door. It works with the rear headrests, the trunk, and the car locks automatically when I reach the specified 9 mph. I replaced that white cap on the actuator (took the whole thing out of the car).

The driver's side door will not lock with the key fob but all the other doors will. However, if I use the key fob to lock the car and open the driver's door the alarm goes off so the system knows that the car is locked (or suppose to be anyway). Now if I walk up to the car and just touch any of the lock sensors on the door handle the car will lock and unlock.

Even touching the sensor on the driver's door will lock the car but that particular door lock does not engage (the other 3 work).

Until I Can figure out what is going on I found a way to lock the driver's door without using the metal key. What I do upon exiting the car is push the lock button down, close the door, open the door, and push the lock button down again and close it. Then use the touch sensor on the door handle to lock the other doors. To unlock I can either use the key fob and/or the sensors on the door handle and all the doors including the driver's door will unlock.

Really weird so I will try and diagnose sometime next week. I'm thinking it has to be something with the driver's front door lock. At least I am able to drive the car and lock the doors.

mercy-me

ibeforreal,

Were you able to get the actuator out of the door without removing the window as the WIS instructs? (see attachment) I have the soft close not working on both front doors so I expect the same fix on both. The rears are still working but rarely get used.

Also, I had to replace a window motor late last year on my LF drivers door and could not get the door panel off. It would not separate at the top by the glass so I could pull it up and out. Did yours come off easily or is there some trick?? However, I was able to bend the panel up enough to access and change out the motor anyway. I could look in and see that the plastic cap on the actuator had either blown partially off or separated from the actuator.

Hope you can close out this thread with your success story!

Bob

ibeforreal

Bob, I didn't want to remove the window because that would introduce a different set of issues. What I did was leave the window completely closed. I knew this would prevent me from potentially scratching the glass.

As far as removing the door panel there were no problems. Instead of removing all of the connections from the door control panel I just unclipped it and removed the entire unit. The one clip that is for the mirror controls is the only one I had to disconnect. It was just as easy putting it back on. There is that one T-30 torx screw under that door handle that got me the first time. Once I figured out it was there I didn't have any other problems with the removal. There is a very good video on youtube about the door panel removal.

Also, I never touched the airbag or unplugged it. Didn't want to trigger that thing and have it give me a concussion.

I'll investigate my problem a little further once my door clips arrive. As mentioned in a previous post I broke a couple of them. Doesn't make sense to go back in there until then.

Bob, I am attaching a PDF of the rivets. As mentioned earlier I will take more pictures and try to do a step-by-step procedure on my next go round.

mercy-me

John, thanks for the update. PDF rivet file saved and stored. Looking forward to further updates!

Thanks again, Bob

04S600AMG

I have read through every post I could find on the PSE pump and the vacuum lines and although I found some great info I didn't find what I really need. I know I have a leak because my pump runs excessively and my passenger side rear door doesn't lock. However when I pulled the grey vacuum manifolds off of the PSE pump assembly and checked for a good vacuum seal on each vacuum hose going into the various parts of the vehicle, on the manifold that connects to the side with the markings FoR, FoL, BFT, FT, and MKL all had major leakage where as the other manifold that connects to the side with markings SK, KAF, HECK, and TD, all showed no leaks. I expected to only find one line with a leak since only one thing (rear pass door) had a problem. So my question is, are ALL lines supposed to show no leaks when checked? Or does the system have to be in some particular configuration (i.e. press the door lock button, or key on, etc) before the lines will show no leak? I just find it hard to believe that all of those lines have that severe a leak with no signs of problems anywhere other than the pass rear door.

Thanks for the help.

Brian

04S600AMG

I made up this W220 PSE Vacuum Routing diagram since I couldn't find any online. Hope you guys find it useful.

Take care,

Brian

Skylaw

That's a very handy diagram, 04S600AMG; it is a great complement to Brian Rice's system troubleshooting pdf at post #15, http://www.benzworld.org/forums/w220...ft-self-2.html

04S600AMG

My PSE system is on the fritz again. I know my PSE pump is good because when I run it I get great vacuum and pressure. However when I use my hand vacuum pump on any of the door lines I can't maintain vacuum. Does anybody know, should those lines be able to maintain vacuum regardless of the state of the door, (open/closed/locked/unlocked)? Thanks,

ibeforreal

Are the doors soft closing and if so, how long does it take?

Noodles51

Hello
my problem is that all 4 doors softclose not working but yes the trunk is working - have tried fuse removal etc Any help much appreciated - 2005 s350 w220

thanks

ibeforreal

Could possibly be your PSE pump. I can't think of anything else that would cause all four doors to stop working at the same time. Try disconnecting the battery for about 1/2 hour and see if the soft close comes back to life. Don' t forget to go through the synchronization process after reconnecting the battery.

Noodles51

hi
just wondering is there any way i can tell if my car has softclose doors

Mercedes - S350 - 2005

1 mechanic said it doesnt have it and other companies tell me i need new door locks to make it work

Any help will be great

wallyp

Pop out the floor lamp housing in the front of the right rear seat. Remove the yellow fuse near the inboard end, then put it back in. This will reset the PSE computer. Try each of the doors. If any of the doors have the soft-close feature, all will have it. If some of the doors function, the non-working doors will need repair, which is usually a failed actuator.

Noodles51

thanks Wallyp
- yes we have done that removed fuse - and disconnected battery etc
- i went to order a new driver front lock and i was told that model does not have softclose but yet when i got the agent to scan it they said pump was good / front door lock needs replacing , how would i find out whether it has or hasnt softclose.
2005 s350

doni01

iTrader: (1)

Hi Brian,
I am on the same boat. Have three of my doors stop working shortly after a reset. The only one that stays working is a rear passenger. So went and purchased a new door actuator for the front passenger thinking I will swap the actuators on all doors one at the time. After swapping it, reset everything and still the same thing happens. All three doors stop working shortly after the reset including the new actuator that I just replaced. Rear passenger still works lol I would have thought that the front passenger will also work since it is brand new. Checked the vacuum lines via a pump and they all leak including the one that works. I am leaning towards the pump at the moment since I do not believe it is the actuators at this point. Any suggestions ??

ibeforreal

Easy, just slightly shut your door without closing it all the way. IF the vacuum sucks the door in then you have soft close. Same process should work on all four doors. I thought all S-Class vehicles came with soft close.

Noodles51

just told today it was optional on purchasing from new / i thought the same as you

cheers

wallyp

We in the USA tend to forget that the standard equipment varies from market to market. I think that all US S-class had soft-close - I doubt that was the case world-wide.

Another reason for having your location shown on every post...

Skylaw

See Brian Rice's superb pdf on soft close at post 15, here

kraut56

on my car (with all possible options) the left door would intermittently not soft close, with progressive failure of mirror directional light, window and mirror switches, and finally seat controls.

Although it was suggested that the wire loom in the door hinge could give these symptoms, I finally replaced the door control module (with a used one), and so far everything is well.

Knock on wood!

rik881

One quick tip guys, if you have an iCarsoft i980 you can reset the pse pump without pulling fuses.

bmoe21

has anyone bought the repair kit on ebay from abc marts? It includes the white cap and solenoid cover.
Any good way to fix the white cap?

ibeforreal

BMOE21, don't waste your money. I tried one but it only lasted a couple of months.

rik881

I thought the air suspension was the achilles heel of our W220. This is worse. I fixed trunk soft close. Now trying to fix the doors. Actuator has been epoxied but it seems to be leaking from the inside. So i looked up used ones on Ebay. To my suprise they all have only the big with cap underneath as you can see in the picture. None has the other white cap i have on top.

Right rear door is what i'm working at first. I will have to fix all 4 doors all soft close are broken and the rear ones don't close anymore.
What a pain.