accidently washed my original key
#1
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2000 S430
accidently washed my original key
ok well my 2 year old stuck the key in his little pocket and the key was accidentaly washed, the rf features still work as i can still lock,unlock the doors the panic button still works and I can still open the windows from outside the car via the infared sensor, yet I cannot use it to start the car? Is there anyway to get it to work again, without having to buy another key?
#2
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It's probably toast. There might have been a chance had you removed the batteries as soon as it came out of the laundry, and used a hair dryer to completely remove all traces of water, followed by letting the key sit opened up overnight.
But pressing any buttons with any water in the key would probably have fried a critical circuit.
I point this out not to torture you, but because it's useful to know when any electronics get wet. I've salvaged a cell phone that fell in a full sink this way. Get the battery out fast.
But pressing any buttons with any water in the key would probably have fried a critical circuit.
I point this out not to torture you, but because it's useful to know when any electronics get wet. I've salvaged a cell phone that fell in a full sink this way. Get the battery out fast.
#3
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2005 S500 4-Matic, 1978 450SL
Unfortunately, whoover may be correct.
However, I washed mine some time ago - dried it carefully, and it worked. Try whoover's drying recommendation, see if it will "come back."
If not, you'll get to treat yourself to one of the newer-style keys for about $185.
However, I washed mine some time ago - dried it carefully, and it worked. Try whoover's drying recommendation, see if it will "come back."
If not, you'll get to treat yourself to one of the newer-style keys for about $185.
#4
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i can understand why it's non-functional, but I am not convinced on the reasons
cited. is not the Smartkey system, vis a vis, ignition start, operates via a
passive system and not reliant on the active circuitry of the key? that is why
it still functions via RF. the circuit board's integrity has not been compromised
by the wash/rinse cycle.
the security system of the ignition interrogates the key via inductive/IR
and then starts the car if the correct code is intact. this is why the flat
valet key operates w/o batteries, sans battery powered circuit board. you
can remove the batteries and the full featured Smartkey should still start
the car
http://w210.pietrzyk.net/electrical_rclatapse.htm
http://w210.pietrzyk.net/electrical_infrarem.htm
i dunno, i could be very wrong and only pseudo smart.
cited. is not the Smartkey system, vis a vis, ignition start, operates via a
passive system and not reliant on the active circuitry of the key? that is why
it still functions via RF. the circuit board's integrity has not been compromised
by the wash/rinse cycle.
the security system of the ignition interrogates the key via inductive/IR
and then starts the car if the correct code is intact. this is why the flat
valet key operates w/o batteries, sans battery powered circuit board. you
can remove the batteries and the full featured Smartkey should still start
the car
http://w210.pietrzyk.net/electrical_rclatapse.htm
http://w210.pietrzyk.net/electrical_infrarem.htm
i dunno, i could be very wrong and only pseudo smart.
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2000 S430
thanks for the input so far, Iam currently drying it out. I too am wondering why the rf and infared functions still operate normaly yet I am unable to start the car. I never got a valet key to try, My other key works ok no problems. Is there another place other than the dealer where I can purchase a new key for cheaper?
#6
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Even the RFID portion of the smart key is electronic, although it doesn't require battery power. It consists of a chip (programmed to match your VIN), an inductive coil (essentially half a transformer) and a capacitor. When you insert the smart key (or flat key), the capacitor is charged by induction (the transformer's primary is in the EIS) and powers the microprocessor that acknowledges the rolling code. It most certainly uses a microchip to do this and could indeed be damaged by being activated while wet.
Again, the wash cycle could have done the deed without your help but it's always worth insuring that electronics are completely dried out sans power to increase the chances of saving a device.
Again, the wash cycle could have done the deed without your help but it's always worth insuring that electronics are completely dried out sans power to increase the chances of saving a device.
Last edited by whoover; 08-23-2008 at 04:38 PM.
#7
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thanks for the input so far, Iam currently drying it out. I too am wondering why the rf and infared functions still operate normaly yet I am unable to start the car. I never got a valet key to try, My other key works ok no problems. Is there another place other than the dealer where I can purchase a new key for cheaper?
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#8
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BTW, I seem to remember that the Smartkey RFID chip gets programmed by the EIS the first time it's inserted (I know that the unique match to your car is stored in write-once-read-many memory). But the metal blade key is cut automatically at the factory to match you VIN also. And since the new key takes a different blade key than the old one, you need that too.
One final thing, if you are using the key-dependent memory to store different seat and mirror settings for your two keys, you have to have the dealer program your EIS "rail" to code the new key as a replacement. If they don't do that (they may need your other functioning key to do it right) your new key will be considered an "additional," without unique memory.
These Smartkeys may be too smart for their own good.
One final thing, if you are using the key-dependent memory to store different seat and mirror settings for your two keys, you have to have the dealer program your EIS "rail" to code the new key as a replacement. If they don't do that (they may need your other functioning key to do it right) your new key will be considered an "additional," without unique memory.
These Smartkeys may be too smart for their own good.
#9
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2000 S430
ok well I put the key back together and everything worked again with the execption of the igition, but what I did was I took the metal key out of my other new style key and stuck in my orignal remote and I head something cycle beneath the dash and wala! I was able to start the car in 10 seconds! amazing! Looks like I was able to save the remote after all well at least thats what it looks like, Im gonna check the key tomorrow and over a week time to make sure the wash has no lasting effects. Thanks everyone for all your input.
#11
Senior Member
The Mercedes dealer is your ONLY place to get a new remote key that will work on your car, Any other blank or used key will NOT work on your car. You can try to get a used one from ebay but will NOT work on your car. Cost me $175 to get a new remote key from local Mercedes dealer, need to prove the car is yours when order from dealer.
#12
[QUOTE=trustz;3155526]The Mercedes dealer is your ONLY place to get a new remote key that will work on your car, Any other blank or used key will NOT work on your car. You can try to get a used one from ebay but will NOT work on your car. Cost me $175 to get a new remote key from local Mercedes dealer, need to prove the car is yours when order from dealer.[/QUOTE]
#13
ok well I put the key back together and everything worked again with the execption of the igition, but what I did was I took the metal key out of my other new style key and stuck in my orignal remote and I head something cycle beneath the dash and wala! I was able to start the car in 10 seconds! amazing! Looks like I was able to save the remote after all well at least thats what it looks like, Im gonna check the key tomorrow and over a week time to make sure the wash has no lasting effects. Thanks everyone for all your input.
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E90 N54 & W251
I agree with the posters above. The key (no pun) is to dry it quickly. I had this happen to me accidentally a few months ago but with a good outcome. The key was left in my jacket and went through a full wash and dry cycle in the washing machine and drier respectively. When it was removed out of the drier, not only was it dry and smellin good, it worked flawlessly.
#16
Another option that worked for me was to put the key in a ziplock back with some rice and let it sit overnight. The rice will absorb the moisture out of the key. Then you just have to insert the metal key part to re-program it to your car and start the car with the smartkey in the ignition (don't try to start it keyless as that will trigger the alarm). Sounds crazy, but it works. I've saved an iPhone the same way.
Good luck!
Good luck!
#17
Very useful tips, thx folks! Washed my key.Panicked and tried to use it immediately (didn't work) and was worried about the electronics being fried.
Took the key apart and put it in a bag of rice. Put it together the next day and it worked perfectly. I don't see the metal blade being an issue though - it works fine with or without the blade inserted.
Took the key apart and put it in a bag of rice. Put it together the next day and it worked perfectly. I don't see the metal blade being an issue though - it works fine with or without the blade inserted.
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S500
This worked
I know this post is old however it still comes up on google...
I had this issue happen to me and I cleaned the exterior and attempted to use it, apparently it burned the connectors, I tried the rice trick and no go however!! I found this post somewhere else and worked flawlessly!
"Take the key apart. Remove the battery pack, then remove the little white locking bar, then slide the board out. Use canned air to spray out the key shell and battery pack.
Buy a can of electrical contact/cleaner spray (radio shack) and spray the board, both sides. Don't be stingy, you need to be sure you get all the chemicals out of it. No need to use the canned air on it, it dries very quickly.
Then use an eraser to clean up the contact points on the board for where the battery contacts touch. Then reinsert the battery pack and check to see if you have the red light. If not confirm you have the batteries properly installed and check again.
I had this issue happen to me and I cleaned the exterior and attempted to use it, apparently it burned the connectors, I tried the rice trick and no go however!! I found this post somewhere else and worked flawlessly!
"Take the key apart. Remove the battery pack, then remove the little white locking bar, then slide the board out. Use canned air to spray out the key shell and battery pack.
Buy a can of electrical contact/cleaner spray (radio shack) and spray the board, both sides. Don't be stingy, you need to be sure you get all the chemicals out of it. No need to use the canned air on it, it dries very quickly.
Then use an eraser to clean up the contact points on the board for where the battery contacts touch. Then reinsert the battery pack and check to see if you have the red light. If not confirm you have the batteries properly installed and check again.
#20
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Those little silica gel packets are also good for absorbing moisture. The kind that sometimes come in shipping boxes. I keep a bunch of them around just for stuff like this. They are relatively inexpensive.
#21
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No personal experience, but I have seen several reports that immediately dropping a wet electronic device into pure ethanol (alcohol), then allowing it to dry can save it. Pure ethanol can include 200 proof vodka, etc.
#22
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W212 E-class, W211 E-class, F10 5-Series
I had this issue happen to me and I cleaned the exterior and attempted to use it, apparently it burned the connectors, I tried the rice trick and no go however!! I found this post somewhere else and worked flawlessly!
"Take the key apart. Remove the battery pack, then remove the little white locking bar, then slide the board out.
"Take the key apart. Remove the battery pack, then remove the little white locking bar, then slide the board out.
I'm very familiar with how to change the battery, but changing the circuit board is where I'm having trouble with. I know many of you have had success in changing it, but I cannot seem to find the "white retainer clip" that is mentioned. Here is a photo of my key. I am a bit stuck as to how to remove the circuit board. What tool can I use that will unlock the retaining clip, and what exactly am I looking for?
Any help is greatly appreciated, as I am very stumped right now.
#25
This is a small detent on the white insert.
What I used is a very thin but still rigid plastic sheet from packaging material. Insert into the space between the white insert and the shell.
Once the plastic go through them, it release the locking detent.
What I used is a very thin but still rigid plastic sheet from packaging material. Insert into the space between the white insert and the shell.
Once the plastic go through them, it release the locking detent.