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Worth to know about 2001 S600 maintenance W220

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S-Class (W220) 1999-2006: S 320 CDI, S 320, S430, S 500, S 600

Worth to know about 2001 S600 maintenance W220

 
Old 03-23-2015, 11:00 AM
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01 S600
Worth to know about 2001 S600 maintenance W220

1. the oil cooler seals behind the engine will leak if not replaced already. The seals cost a couple of bucks but both heads need to be removed so expect $5500. While you are in there, replace the ABC hydraulic hose on the driver's side. It costs about $700.

2. If the oil level switch starts leaking, oil can get into the wiring harness. So, replace the ~$150 oil level switch preventatively. Also, the same can happen with the 13 point connector on top of the transmission. So replace that ~$20 part preventatively, too. If the leaks do occur, disconnect every wiring harness connector, open up the wiring shields around the connectors to allow oil out. Put car in a heated place if in winter. Open up the ECU. Clean ECU circuit board with electronic component cleaner from Ebay or radio shack - and pray. after a few days, also clean the wiring connectors and put it all together again. You may need to repeat this procedure. Symptom may be a misfire or weird tranny behavior for the above.

3. The ecu removal is extremely simple. There are youtube videos. It will take you about 10 minutes. The ECU opens with a Torx screwdriver. If your ECU dies, you can buy a used one on Ebay but rather that cumbersome security programming, you will need to move a small surface mount chip from the old to the new ECU. Do not try to do that yourself. Find the instructions on the web to identify the right chip, take it to a reputable computer, ham or stereo repair shop and pay the $50 for that.


4. The dashboard instrument cluster is prone to power supply failures in old age. it cost about $150 to repair. Repair services are sold on Ebay with 1 week turnaround. You buy a $5 pair of radio/dash removal blades for VW or Mercedes on Ebay. The are two small slots on the front of the instrument cluster. then the instrument cluster pulls out. You flick two little connector brackets by hand, no tools, and the two connectors come right out. You will probably also have a blown fuse in addition to the failed dash on-board power supply.

5. the fuel gas tank level sensor is behind the back seat. You remove two tor screws and 4 plastic trim plugs and then wiggle the trim away from the back of the back seat. There are two connectors that come lose by hand. then insert two thin screwdrivers into the two holes in the sensor head and use a wrench to gently turn the two screwdrivers about 10 degrees counterclockwise. Make sure there is plenty of ventilation, that it is not excessively hot and make sure there can be no sparks from the battery. Also ground yourself to the car and only wear cotton; nothing that can generate static electricity. The sensor replacement itself takes about 5 minutes. the seat back trim is a 2X30 minute procedure. Note that the trim pieces have tracks that interlock. There are videos and photo series on line that show the details.

6. The trunk CD player is removed as follows. There are 4 8mm nuts to remove. You need an 8mm deep socket. Then the cradle lifts right out allowing you to remove 4 philips screws and 2 connectors from the CD player. The worst part is the side trim piece in the trunk. Rather than removing it all, it is possible to remove on torx screw and a plastic trim plug, pushing out the trim around the tail light and then just lifting up the side trim at the bottom rather than removing it completely. The whole thing takes 30 minutes. Note that the trim pieces have tracks that interlock.

7. If you are losing ABC fluid, it could be a leaking strut. Look behind each wheel for a patch of oil on the inside wheel well. Ebay has rebuild ones for about $600. Replace the ABC filter in the overflow container. Make sure to clean the exterior with electronic component cleaner spray or such first.

8. You can check and refill tranny fluid as follows. On the top left passenger side of the engine compartment, there is a small2"X2" black cap. The top locking tap breaks off with a pair of pliers. you can then insert a small screwdriver to move to lock and the cap comes right off. There is no tranny dipstick. You buy a $10-15 aftermarket steel mesh cable with a filler marker on it on Ebay. While the car is running, you can check the tranny oil level. Use a long skinny funnel to refill. All items used must be highly clean, dust and lint free.

9. The computers sensing bulb failures are very sensitive. Only use the correct Osram brand bulbs. The same number equivalent from others will lead to erroneous bulb out warnings. Pelican parts sell the bulbs for very little money. There are 4 X 2 tail light bulbs. use bulb grease and look for corrosion on the bulb holder and on the tail light circuit tracks. Use a flash light. you may need to use electronic component cleaner first.

10. You can get cheap replacement signal light assemblies for the mirrors on Ebay. They look more modern than the originals. the mirror casings remove with a screwdriver. You move the mirrors to point all the way up. Then you see a little metal tap. You push that with the screwdriver while gently pulling the case out. After a minute or so, you will find the right spot and the mirror case slides out. there is an electrical connector to disconnect. When installing the new lights, you may need to file a few plastic burrs off the new lights for a perfect fit. Seal the seams with clear silicone and let dry. The old incandescent lights use 375mA. Test that your resistor is sized such that it does not heat up excessively inside your mirror. You can connect it to your battery to see how hot it gets. Your new LED ones will use about 60 mA so the bulb computer will be unhappy. to fool it, you need to connect a 40-50 ohm 10 Watt resistor in parallel with the new mirror light. you will also need to solder the old connector onto the new lights. You will need to solder. There is not space for wire clips or such.

Last edited by high123bid; 03-23-2015 at 11:31 AM. Reason: More items added.
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Old 03-23-2015, 12:27 PM
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The oil cooler seal fails because of overheat. That is caused by a crankcase ventilation venturi blocked by coke at the right front cylinder cover.

BTW: MB will not sell the seal, only the complete oil cooler.

You can check for that by squeezing the segmented rubber vent tube going back to the throttle body; if hard, it is baked by heat.

If that's the case, your new oil cooler will fail again.
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Old 04-28-2015, 11:09 PM
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So finally did an S600 oil change. Very easy. The filter cartridge sits on top of the engine and unscrews by surgically-gloved land. There are I think 4 O-rings that come with the kit. The old ones come off with the help of a little screwdriver. It is self-evident how they go on.

I bought a 12V 5A fluid transfer pump off of Ebay for about $30. You run the engine a bit such that the oil flow better but not hot enough that the suction pump hoses melt. You pump it out through the (missing) dipstick tube. It takes about 10 minutes. You look at how much you pump out and fill it up a little less. Wait for the oil to flow down. Then you check the oil level WITHOUT starting the engine and refill a bit to get it right. Wallmart sells 10W40 synthetic in 5 quart jugs for about $26.
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Old 04-29-2015, 09:13 AM
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nice to know!
What's the link to the pump on fleabay?

thnx
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Old 02-11-2019, 04:53 PM
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1990 560SEC, 2001 S600
Somewhere on this forum there were some pictures of the coked up crankcase due to ventilation venturi being blocked. For the life of me, I cannot find the thread. can somebody please point me to it? As a preventive measure, I would like to inspect my 2001 S600 to see if I'm plagued with this problem. I would really appreciate any direction I can get to perform this task.
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Old 02-12-2019, 12:04 AM
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It's an MB Service Bulletin
Search here and on the other under my nick
The venturi is in the forward part of thr right valve cover
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