shooffnyc

So my car just decided not to crank yesterday. After reading and searching all I could last night, I decided to start with the battery. Took it to local autozone to have them test it and they said it was holding 75% charge and after doing a more thorough test they determined it didn't have enough cranking power. So I replaced the battery today but still not cranking. I also cycled through the shifter to no avail. Before I declare it the EIS, anything else you guys suggest I check? Maybe one of the fuse? Anyways took a short vid to demonstrate.

wallyp

The shifter check is done by holding the key in the start position as you very slowly move the shift lever thru its full travel. Go especially slowly in and around the Neutral position.

A relay failure is another possibility.

Joshy

You really need to at least get the codes pulled before chucking parts at this problem. Not cranking can be many different things, you need to have some sort idea of where to start.

If there are no relevant codes I'd be checking for a cranking signal to the starter motor when the key is turned and work from there.

hbs600

shooffnyc,

I just had to have my starter replaced since my 02 S600 wouldn't crank. The dealer tested the battery, EIS and all the components. Had them put in an aftermarket vice an OEM starter since the OEM was on back order from 6 - 8 weeks. The cost difference was around $600 between aftermarket and OEM part.

Hope this helps,

wallyp

Sometimes it is a good idea to have the starter rebuilt by a local auto electric shop - not a standard garage, not an auto parts store, but a real electric shop.

shooffnyc

Just got back from a week long vacation. So I'm back to trying few more things out before I tow it to my local autohaus.

I did that test as you described but still did not work.

I was trying to locate the relay but wasn't sure of its location from the fusebox chart.

From doing a seach and looking at the picture of the relay I think it's located at the passenger side under the hood? But I'm not sure. I don't have the fusebox chart on the trunk toolkit unfortunately. I just got it off from this website: http://www.mercedesmedic.com/fuses-a...***-2000-2006/

You're right. Before I go purchase a starter or even look into EIS as the issue, I'm hoping that plugging this back into SDS would show what's causing it.

shooffnyc

Did your starter give any signs of it going out or did it suddenly stop cranking with no prior signs?

shooffnyc

So just today I was going to have the car towed to the shop. The tow truck came and just before he was about to hook up the chains, he wanted to give it a try to crank. And it started! So I ended up not having to tow the car.

I drove the car to the shop and spoke to them about what the situation was. They suggested to try another key as the key might be the issue. They said since the problem doesn't exist, they can't do much diagnosing. Not sure if I should be relieved. But I hate when there is an issue which I can't be sure what the cause of it is. I will just order a new key and go from there. I am pretty sure it was something to do with the ignition system now which locked it. I just wonder if there is any way to bypass it next time it happens in the meanwhile.

shooffnyc

Update & a new question:

So took it to the shop and they believe it's the EIS. Spoke to the local MB dealer and they quoted me $900 for a new EIS+programming of the EIS to my key.

I also stumbled upon these guys in New York who claims to have the capability to reprogram EIS.

http://paylesscarkeys.com/




I called and spoke to them and they said that all I need to do is send them the code from my current EIS box and they can reprogram an EIS they have to match my car. And that's all I need to do. It will cost $500. I feel like they know what they are doing after watching some of their videos online. They are an authorized locksmith in NY.

My question is: IF they can reprogram the EIS to match my car, will that cause any issue with the ECU and the shifter in my car? They said it would not. But I wanna ask for second opinions. I mean if they are reprogramming the EIS, then it should match and the ECU would think it's the same EIS. Am I correct? Any thoughts?

I know getting a brand new EIS is the best route. But I want to try this route and don't mind experimenting. I hope this can help others out in the future to save some $. If they are good and it works, I can vouch their work.

tusabes

Call these guys and see if they can program a eis
http://mandbspecialist.com

tusabes

Also see this forum

http://*******.com/Thread-The-ultima...S-repair-guide

shooffnyc

Thanks tusabes once again for those links. I didn't know there is something called ESL. lol. the Electronic steering lock.

So the day before yesterday, when I brought the car back from the shop, I tried to start it up later that day and it wouldn't start again. After trying few things like pulling key in/out, lightly hitting the EIS, didn't work. Next thing I remember doing was having my foot on the brake and then trying to lock the door with the dash lock button on the dash. Once the door locked, the car automatically started. I just had the key in on position. I didn't have to crank it. So that's a bit weird.

What does locking the door have to do with the car starting? Is there a relation?

Welwynnick

The W220 doesn't have an ESL. Security is achieved with the Electronic (shift) Selector Module, ESM. The transmission is locked in park until the ignition is successfully switched on, and the brake pedal is pressed. Also, the key cannot be removed unless the transmission is in Park.

Therefore the W220 is secured by a park lock, instead of a steering lock.

Nick

shooffnyc

Thanks. So it's EIS and ESM. Gotcha.

tusabes

My key can be removed when the car is in gear

Welwynnick

You mean CANNOT be removed with the car in gear?


Nick

Welwynnick

On the W220, the keys, EIS, ESM & ECU are all coded together. Each of those units cannot be split, or recoded to work with other units.

Unless someone very clever gas recently figured out how to do it. ******* is probably the place to read about it.

Nick

tusabes

No . My key can be removed while the car is in gear . I can leave it in drive neutral or reverse , turn the car off and the key will come out

Welwynnick

How do you do that? Did you remove the park lock in the ESM?

tusabes

That is how my car has always been , I've never modified anything

shooffnyc

The guys over at that locksmith that I posted about earlier said that they will recode another EIS to match mine once I read off the numbers from my current EIS. Are you saying that is not possible? Isn't that what Mercedes do if I order a new EIS. Basically program a new EIS to match my old one?

Welwynnick

Maybe they can - I just want to see it proven. Ultimately anything can be repaired if you try hard enough, but the EIS is very complex. I've just had mine repaired by a UK company that specialises in locks and ECU's etc, so I guess they have the capability. I'm still learning about the process. I was told that one of the processors in mine was replaced, so I suppose the vehicle and key configuration codes can be read from, and programmed into, new hardware.

I was just trying to make the point that there are definitely four items coded together, not just three.

Nick

shooffnyc

So I was just about to pull out my EIS to send it to be replicated. But before I just wanted to double check the battery status. The day before I spent about 30 minutes trying to start the car. No luck so I gave up. This morning before even trying, I tested the battery with a multi-meter. It read 12.25v. Then I tried to start it and it started right up.

I read somewhere that anything below a 12.4v indicates a bad battery? If that was the case, then the car would hesitate to start. But it didn't.

I'm still going with a bad EIS but should my battery be reading 12.25v after not being started for 2 days? Would that be normal? Also consider how many times I put my key in ignition to try and start it, the dome/dash lights coming on. Locking & unlocking the door, etc. Would you say the battery is also bad?

tusabes

A w220 needs a stronger battery than any car out there , it does not matter what you've read somewhere because the w220 needs a strong battery

Batteries that test good still are often too weak for a w220

If you don't have the proper AGM battery , either from Mercedes or Bosch it's likely not sufficient for the car. Just because cheaper batteries will fit and work for a while , they are not proper for this car

You may also have an issue with the electronics fully "going to sleep " . If you ever sat in your car after you shut it down and open and close the door you'll hear various electronic components still whizzing and shutting down after a few minutes.

shooffnyc

Had the battery & alternator load tested at Autozone. They said it was good.

Hmm. Unfortunately the battery is not OEM. It's a Super Start 900cca that I got off at OReily's. And yeah I do hear all these weird buzzing sounds when I am sitting in the car.

But why would the car start intermittently? Like the day I replaced the battery it still wouldn't start. Then 2 weeks later it starts.

Though I agree going with the oem battery would be best but I am not convinced that's the reason why I'm having starting issues. Pretty sure the other reasons are due to not having OEM battery.