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You got the WIS? Without it you can't do the job.
Also, you will need the cam holding fixtures; you can't undo the sprocket bolts by hlding the sprocket with the chain.
Been there, done that.
Good luck!
How did you get the exhaust disconnected? I'm going after the bolts pictured but having a hard time getting wrenches into position and getting enough movement.
Yes - it's a tough job. As I mentioned before, it's really a 2 man job:
a) From the top, you need quite a long extension with a universal socket (I used "all-in-one", i.e not a universal plus a socket)
b) from below, you again need a socket, an extension, and a ratchet.
The bolts/nuts are of very good quality and will break clear without stripping
Actually, if I remember right the bolts were the other way around, i.e. upside down
NB: you don't need to remove the O2 sensors for this job - follow the WIS
So, why are you doing this - is the oil cooler leaking?
It's a huge job, and you need the WIS, and follow it to the letter. Few points:
a) remove battery ground
b) remove radiator fan
c) put the engine into #1 compression and 30 deg on the crank pulley indicator scale
d) use permanent marker and mark both sprockets and chain
One of the biggest hassles will be to pull the chain rail pins, best make your own puller.
Good luck! If you search my nick here and on Benzworld you will find a few comments I made on this.
Thanks, finally was able to get wrenches on it .Had to use a small wrench with someone above.
Yes oil cooler is leaking and I'm following the WIS on the computer .it may have me doing more steps then needed because I have to step into each step more.
Did you mess with the timing when you were putting everything back together? I did the 30* and marked the camshaft adjusters and the chain but I'm concerned that the engine isn't perfect. I can tell the cylinder 1 isn't TDC due to the carbon line and the motor position seems to be closer to 25* than the 30* I set it before. But With more out of the engine bay I'm able to look at it easier. Is checking the timing as simple as setting it to 30* for the TDC after ignition and lining up the markings on the camshaft adjusters?
After I placed the engine into the # 1 compression at the 30 deg mark (and BEFORE loosening the chain tensioner) I marked the chain and sprockets. I never rotated anything after that, and the cam holding fixtures kept the cams in that position. The 30 deg position on the crank means just that, it is not at TDC.
After I had the heads back on and the timing chain back on the sprockets (with paint marks aligned) and the tensioner back in, I turned by hand the engine until the sprocket and timing chain marks aligned again (about 25 engine turns!) - just to be sure.
Good luck!
Yep! Got it up and running and it's running good. Lots of white smoke when I started it up but it was just all the pbblaster burning off .
Also swapped radiator and oil a couple times to make sure everything was clean
Super congrats!
You are one of the few of us that have ever tackled this!
Attached the view of the hoses at the rear.
A hint: make sure the crankcase vent (low speed) venturi in the front right valve cover was taken apart and cleaned as per the MB Service Bulletin.
When it cloggs, it is the cause of the oil cooler failure (MB never acknowledged that that).
Search for my posts/comments on this.
Again - you are now a member of the "Oil cooler" club!
So, why are you doing this - is the oil cooler leaking?
It's a huge job, and you need the WIS, and follow it to the letter. Few points:
a) remove battery ground
b) remove radiator fan
c) put the engine into #1 compression and 30 deg on the crank pulley indicator scale
d) use permanent marker and mark both sprockets and chain
One of the biggest hassles will be to pull the chain rail pins, best make your own puller.
Good luck! If you search my nick here and on Benzworld you will find a few comments I made on this.
Kraut what do you mean when you say "if you search my nick"? I am doing my oil cooler in my 2001 S600. I am about ready to take off the 2 cam sprockets. Did you use both the Clips and the Cam holding device? I tried to take off or loosen the bolt for the cam adjuster sprocket using just the clip but it keeps moving off timing and the bolt is too tight. Did you buy the cam holding device? its $400. Any ides? How did you do yours? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Kraut what do you mean when you say "if you search my nick"? I am doing my oil cooler in my 2001 S600. I am about ready to take off the 2 cam sprockets. Did you use both the Clips and the Cam holding device? I tried to take off or loosen the bolt for the cam adjuster sprocket using just the clip but it keeps moving off timing and the bolt is too tight. Did you buy the cam holding device? its $400. Any ides? How did you do yours? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Seach the fourms for his nickname "kraut"
You also want to make sure you clean out the coke from the crank case vent, front right cover, or this issue will happen again very quick.
While heads are off you may be able to replace the engine mounts too. I regret not trying very hard, my quick look was I couldn't.
For the cam holder I rented a set off lendmeyour gear.com
There is no way you can unbolt the sprockets without the cam holders.
You CANNOT use the timing chain crank sprocket to hold it!
and remember, the sprocketclips prevent the sprockets from falling apart,
Check my nick on this!!....on both forums!
There is no way you can unbolt the sprockets without the cam holders.
You CANNOT use the timing chain crank sprocket to hold it!
and remember, the sprocketclips prevent the sprockets from falling apart,
Check my nick on this!!....on both forums!
Hi there Kraut56
Thank You for your reply. You are right, I had to get the cam holding device. Now, I am getting ready to take off both sprockets and heads. How many guide/Slide rail pins must come out in order to take off the timing chain? The WIS mercedes program doesn't say.? I would really appreciate it.
I did this job long time ago, but, if I correctly remember there is only one guide pin for each of the CHAIN RAIL GUIDES (LEFT AND RIGHT) that need to be pulled, otherwise you can't get the heads off. You don't want to break the formica rail guides!!!!
Good luck!
Thanks a lot Sir. I just took off the right side but I think that I took too many pins (4) all together. I will try to put them back hopefully I dont run into any problems. 2001 S600 right cyl head removed. Doing the dreaded oil cooler job
Yes Sir, Tusabes. It's great to hear from you. You are one of the best in the MB Forum. I learned a lot from You in the past. Yeah I bought my car a few years back with 57K miles on it. It has now 80K on it. The oil cooler was leaking really bad and killed many coil packs. This coming Wednesday, I will remove the Left Cylinder head and finally get to the oil cooler. I will keep you posted. I already made a couple of mistakes, I took out too many Guide Rail pins hopefully I can put them back and also I forgot to mark where the short Cylinder Head bolts go. I dont see where they go in the WIS program. Hopefully you can help me.
Hi there Tusabes, Kraut56 and everyone else. Both heads are off. I will remove and replace the oil cooler Monday as I work this weekend. In the meantime, dont hesitate to let me know what gasket sealant/silicone RTV you guys used when you did yours. My new oil cooler came with it's own seal. Is there another seal to replace?
Last edited by champouelle1; Aug 20, 2020 at 05:04 PM.
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